What causes failure to go into battery in 1911s?

i am using ONLY Armscore 230 FMJ in the .45s. i tried some hollowpoints in both .45s and they wouldn't work at all. (but i can throw any kind of garbage at my walther colt 1911-22 and it eats them all.) the ammo in the 9mm has been pretty varied, but it's all 115, that's all i can find.
First of all, plunk test the ammunition in the chambers. See if there is resistance to the case falling completely into the chamber with gravity alone.

Then, try a different brand of factory 230 FMJ ammunition. Since all your 45 ACP's are choking with one brand of ammunition, this sounds ammunition related. It would be unusal for three 1911's to have tight chambers, and short throats. Never mind four.

Always run your 1911 wet. In fact, I am going to suggest, put a drop of oil on the middle round, and the top round in the magazine. See if clean and lubricated cases feed and extract. You will also notice, oil leaking from the rails. Case oil that does not go up the barrel is squeezed back into the action, essentially creating an oil pump, which keeps the mechanism oiled. It is messy, but reducing case to chamber friction, and slide friction, could help provide clues as to whether your problem is ammunition or pistols.

By the way, when was the last time you installed a new recoil spring? Sixteen pounds is the average, on 1911's that have violent recoil, I have gone to 18 and 22 lbs. And for target pistols with powder puff loads, 12 to 13 pounds. Spring tension is important and springs wear.
 
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Just thought of this… should have been my first recommendation:

Have another experienced 1911 shooter run a couple of mags through each gun.

If the problem remains, then proceed with suggestions for troubleshooting.
 
Oops, didn't notice the 9mm had been shot and failed with different ammo.

ETC Two guns, one brand of ammo. Hmm. (The 9mm and .22 are not relevant.)

The plunk test is easy. A different brand of hardball is only money.
 
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Try another brand of ammo as Slam says. In my 1911s, plated and jacketed feed some better than lead especially lead flat point and especially light loads, however, I've not had issues to the point you are even during break-in.

Recoil springs have been mentioned, but this would be my next step. I would suggest that you tear them down and double-check the installation. I can't imagine a Kimber or a Springfield having feed issues like this, but I'd sure be looking for a mechanical issue.

And, I think 1911s are like Harleys and need to drip a little oil. Personally, I use a bit of Shell synthetic red grease on my rails, barrel, and barrel bushings. Things that slide need grease.
 
All of the above is why I gave up carrying & mostly buying 1911's... Put a reliable 1911 in my hands and it will most likely jam within a few magazines. I call it my 1911 curse.

I still have my Dad's Colt Series 70 Govt Model 45 - it still has issues. Over the years, I've sold off 2 Kimbers (a Stainless gen 1 and a TLE II) and a RIA.

A couple years ago, I toured Nighthawk's facility and shot one of their freshly built $5,000 1911's. It ran perfectly. I have better things to do with $5000 and knowing my curse, I would be slapping the slide to close it within a few shooting sessions.

After reading all the Tisas praise, I picked up a higher end Tisas 9mm 1911 - it has a mid magazine FTE / double feed. I let a friend shoot it, it happened to him as well.

Ultimately, I like a gun that works 100% of the time. For me, that is not a 1911.
 
i am using ONLY Armscore 230 FMJ in the .45s. i tried some hollowpoints in both .45s and they wouldn't work at all. (but i can throw any kind of garbage at my walther colt 1911-22 and it eats them all.) the ammo in the 9mm has been pretty varied, but it's all 115, that's all i can find.

With this, try something else in the 45's. It could be this or that, but try different ammo, that is the single most easy thing to do. And yes hollow points can be good or not good, this is why it is suggested to test your SD ammo.

From what you describe it sounds like they may be a tick long. 45 does it spacing on the case mouth, if that case is a tick long it could be an issue in a specific gun.

Different ammo, very simple to test.
 
All of the above is why I gave up carrying & mostly buying 1911's... Put a reliable 1911 in my hands and it will most likely jam within a few magazines. I call it my 1911 curse.

I still have my Dad's Colt Series 70 Govt Model 45 - it still has issues. Over the years, I've sold off 2 Kimbers (a Stainless gen 1 and a TLE II) and a RIA.

A couple years ago, I toured Nighthawk's facility and shot one of their freshly built $5,000 1911's. It ran perfectly. I have better things to do with $5000 and knowing my curse, I would be slapping the slide to close it within a few shooting sessions.

After reading all the Tisas praise, I picked up a higher end Tisas 9mm 1911 - it has a mid magazine FTE / double feed. I let a friend shoot it, it happened to him as well.

Ultimately, I like a gun that works 100% of the time. For me, that is not a 1911.
That is some bad luck but to be fair, I would give Colt and Kimber the same chances of having reliability issues out of the box. The other two, RIA and Tisas, are low cost 1911s that have pretty good reputations but your expectations are pretty high if you expect them to run.

It isn't hard to make a 1911 run reliably, it's just that there are quite a few more tolerances that manufacturers need to be mindful of, as well as using quality springs and magazines.

I've owned quite a few of them. The higher ended versions have a better chance of running out of the box. I have fixed an issue with a Colt by replacing the recoil spring, adjusted the extractor on a Magnum Research, and upgraded magazines on some others. They all ran great after that.
 
I like to tinker with mechanical and other things. Small engines, computers, firearms in general, and yes—I really enjoy shooting, cleaning, upgrading 1911s. I suppose it’s just my personality.

With that said, I find them easy to tune and simple to understand. Mine shoot RN, FMJ, HP, and LSWC equally well. Consistent. Reliable. I can’t remember the last malfunction I had in a 1911.

There are outliers, and certainly there is a need for troubleshooting and regular maintenance for 1911s. Some folks just don’t care for them and I get that. Nothing wrong with your choice if you move on to something else.
 
Most of the issues I have encountered were due to magazines, a poorly tuned extractor, or a combination of both. My Kimber has been perfect for nearly 20 years. My Para-Ordnance only likes factory ammo, not my handloads. My RIA (Double-stack 9mm/.22 TCM combo) had ftf issues. I sent it to RIA, they made it better, but not perfect. I had a local Smith tune and install a Wilson Combat Bulletproof extractor, and now it runs 9mm perfectly. And the TCM...ok, as long as the magazine is downloaded.

For single-stacks I use Wilson 47D mags. The Kimber runs all magazines I have tried really well, including cold war era junk-drawer magazines, but I just prefer to skip the trial and error.
There is a procedure called "clocking the extractor," meaning making sure it is aligned properly in its hole, that is, lined up with noon and six o'clock. My understaning is that this detail can screw things up in mysterious ways. Might work, might not, but like chicken soup for a cold, "can't hurt."

More chicken soup: sometimes long toggle links are installed in order to cram the barrel up into the locking grooves in the slide to improve accuracy. Check the dimensions on your toggle link. It's only a matter of a few thousandths. By the same token, dirt in the locking grooves in the slide can be overlooked which might cause the sme problem.| Came late to the party, did not read all of the posts, so maybe someone's mentioned these things.

Terry, 230RN
 
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There is a procedure called "clocking the extractor," meaning making sure it is aligned properly in its hole, that is, lined up with noon and six o'clock. My understaning is that this detail can screw things up in mysterious ways. Might work, might not, but like chicken soup for a cold, "can't hurt."
My RIA 1911 tossed brass in a 360 degree circle. Based on what I read the extractor was clocking. I purchased an EGW oversize firing pin stop and carefully filed on the sides so there was zero slop between the firing pin stop and extractor. I measured the slide stop cavity in the slide, measured the EGW width. Kept track of how much material I was removing from each side, and alternated filing sides. Also made sure the firing pin hole stayed in the middle of the slide stop! I could see "belling" from rotation in the extractor slot. Anyway, now the pistol tosses most cases over my shoulder.

@Steve in Allentown has written a number of very useful posts on extractor problems and fittings. Well worth saving before the information goes away. Since the 1990's, a lot of gun forums with incredibly useful information have disappeared, and so, I get in the habit of saving useful information for future reference. Nothing is perfect, nothing lasts, and nothing is complete.

Steve in Allentown Extractor fitting

Extractors and Ejectors by Alex Hamilton


Extractors, inertia feeds, and false positives
 
Put a reliable 1911 in my hands and it will most likely jam within a few magazines. I call it my 1911 curse.

Ultimately, I like a gun that works 100% of the time. For me, that is not a 1911.
Don't give up on 1911 ... This is coming from 1911 fan converted to Glock fan yet remains 1911 fan.

I was a medic in the Army but got "volunteered" to help out in our unit's armory.

I was introduced to 1911s when new out-of-the-box M1911s for our officers were rough and would not cycle the slide reliably. It was my job to make them reliable. Often it took 20-30 minutes of disassembly and smoothing rough machined surfaces before slide would cycle reliably and feed/chamber rounds.

So started my love for 1911s and after discharge, I started shooting USPSA matches and a seasoned bullseye match shooter coworker took me under his wing and taught me to build my match 1911 based on Norinco heavily fortified with Wilson Combat parts, including 2.5 lb trigger job.

1911s can be reliable and thousands of 1911s/2011s are shot by match shooters every week all around the world. Even my railed Sig 1911 XO with tightest chamber I have seen would reliably feed/chamber Lead SWC reloads for several hundred round range session before fouling build up would slow it down (I retired the Sig 1911 after 12,000 rounds).

I got to shoot new out-of-box RIA 1911 Tactical models when shooting range got them as rentals and was impressed how reliably they ran with accuracy that when Vietnam vet coworker wanted 1911 and SA M1A for retirement memory flash back gifts, I suggested he consider RIA Tactical (So as to have less reliability issues compared to other brands he was looking around similar price point). He ended up buying the Tactical model and wanted me to install fiber optic front sight and I got to examine the RIA 1911 closely. What I noticed was it had generous flared chamber mouth that would reliably feed/chamber even sloppy LSWC reloads (His, not mine). When my Sig 1911 would slow down after 300 rounds, his RIA 1911 would reliably continue feeding/chambering LSWC reloads to where now I call RIA "Glock of 1911s".

I ended up buying Armscor Citadel 1911 model which is tighter tolerance target model of RIA and while tighter chamber shorter leade barrel required more consistent reloading, it actually produced slightly smaller groups than my Sig 1911 (Which usually produced around 2" groups at 25 yards and friend's Tactical model slightly larger groups) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/rmrs-own-line-of-thick-plated-bullets.761471/

Comparison groups from new RMR thick plated bullet load development (Yes, those OALs are max OALs allowed by the barrels illustrating how short the leades are)

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Railed Sig 1911 XO typical groups at 15/25 yards after 7000 round count using MBC 200 gr LSWC (12 BHN Bullseye #1)

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It might be a good idea to look at the OAL you're loading to. Just a double-check to be sure ......
 
i moved the RIA along and in it's place is a SA Mil Spec. i will probably shoot it tomorrow. i took it apart everything i could see looked fine. lightly oiled the rails. we'll see.
 
It might be a good idea to look at the OAL you're loading to. Just a double-check to be sure ......
you know what? it's true i'm shooting factory loads, but i've got a caliper and nothing to do tonight. i think i will measure some ammo and see if there are any OAL variations.
 
3 different manufactures in two calibers? Either you are extremely unlucky or might need to look in the mirror.
Aside from the 22lr mentioned what is your other semi-auto experience?
 
I have a PT1911 for15 something years now. After 50 rounds the extractor snapped off. Sent it back to tarus and after 6 weeks got it back fixed. Thousands of rounds later and never a hiccup. This thing will eat anything I reload Mostly lead 200 grain. I would try Flitzing the chamber and fee ramp
 
3 different manufactures in two calibers? Either you are extremely unlucky or might need to look in the mirror.
Aside from the 22lr mentioned what is your other semi-auto experience?
i carried a glock on my job for about 5 years (SW 686 before that). that glock was the only semi-auto gun i'd ever fired other than 22s. no experience with 1911s before about 2 years ago.

i put around 300 rds through that glock and it never malfunctioned one time.
 
^^^ Find someone experienced with shooting 1911s then compare their results with yours. And what ever you do, just ignore the YouTube videos and leave the Dremel tool in the drawer.
 
Three guns, same problem?
It’s either the ammo or YOUR GRIP.
I own 3-9mm, 2-.45’s, and a 10mm M1911’s.
Occasionally, I’ll “thumb” the slide stop, or safety and cause your issue.
For that reason, I’m not a fan of over size slide stops or extended safeties.

You only shot a Glock 300 times and carried it on DUTY ??? WOW!
I had shot and owned several Glocks before my agency adopted the G22 in ‘96. When we transitioned from the 686 to G22, we fired approximately 600rds in training/qualification. Over the next 6mos, I’d probably shot mine close to 5,000rds! (But I cast and reload, so that’s no surprise).
If you had no issues with the Glock, it’s because there was little for your fingers to rub…
You need to shoot more!

I suggest you try one handed shooting, with a thumb down grip. I’d bet the problem goes away. Watch this…
 
Luck of the draw. I have two RIA 1911's that I bought NiB. One has yet to malfunction. One had to go back to the factory three times, and it's still picky about ammo.

The one I bought used hasn't "malfunctioned", but the slide will occasionally fail to hold open after the last shot. (It's a range toy, so IDC.)

A picture or it didn't happen. This one has been flawless:

 
Three guns, same problem?
It’s either the ammo or YOUR GRIP.
I own 3-9mm, 2-.45’s, and a 10mm M1911’s.
Occasionally, I’ll “thumb” the slide stop, or safety and cause your issue.
For that reason, I’m not a fan of over size slide stops or extended safeties.

You only shot a Glock 300 times and carried it on DUTY ??? WOW!
I had shot and owned several Glocks before my agency adopted the G22 in ‘96. When we transitioned from the 686 to G22, we fired approximately 600rds in training/qualification. Over the next 6mos, I’d probably shot mine close to 5,000rds! (But I cast and reload, so that’s no surprise).
If you had no issues with the Glock, it’s because there was little for your fingers to rub…
You need to shoot more!

I suggest you try one handed shooting, with a thumb down grip. I’d bet the problem goes away. Watch this…

I do, in fact, need to shoot lots and lots and lots more. and i'm going to work on that this weekend. yup.

we were security officers, not "real cops". they didn't expect us to actually shoot anybody. Dumb, yes.
 
If the extractor is mis-adjusted (too tight) the pistol may not fully chamber (FTRB) a round.
I have seen this once or twice.
 
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