What is the best Mod you've added to your AR15?
- Thread starter usmarine0352_2005
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Red Cent
Member
A 3# no creep, no pretravel, crisp trigger by DIY. No sanding, stoning, or filing. Just polish and a set screw. Saved a hundred bucks or so.
firemanstrickland
Member
hmm, major- my eotech 516
minor, my bcm gunfighter
minor, my bcm gunfighter
greyling22
Member
+1 to red cent. you beat me to it. Though I did have to do some grinding on the back of the trigger bar to get it. see below.
David, see here and here http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/ar08.html
http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm
David, see here and here http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/ar08.html
http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm
christcorp
Member
I mentioned my hogue pistol grip on my AR and my sights. But I forgot to mention a NEW charging handle. Being a lefty, I found that one of the greatest accessories, was to buy a BCMGunfighter MOD-3 charging handle. Now; whether I charge the rifle with my left or right hand, I can charge it easily, and it's designed to not go back on an angle. It charges straight. For around $45-$50, it's a little pricey, but for a lefty, it's awesome. It's ambi, but has a good size ear on it from either direction.
Cosmoline, LOVE that rifle.
Useful mod: Houge monogrip. It's stickier, wider than a stock A2 grip on most rifles.
Useful mod: rubber recoil pad 1/2 inch thick makes up for 4 position only stock on many rifles, gives me an effective 'half step' for better fit.
Useful mod: shooting sling, though I know single points and safari slings are the rage I prefer a standard leather shooting sling.
Useless but I like it: slipover 5.5 inch flash hider makes my 6920 look more like an XM-177, adds a little weight forward
Priceless expendature: shooting that rifle in matches.
Useful mod: Houge monogrip. It's stickier, wider than a stock A2 grip on most rifles.
Useful mod: rubber recoil pad 1/2 inch thick makes up for 4 position only stock on many rifles, gives me an effective 'half step' for better fit.
Useful mod: shooting sling, though I know single points and safari slings are the rage I prefer a standard leather shooting sling.
Useless but I like it: slipover 5.5 inch flash hider makes my 6920 look more like an XM-177, adds a little weight forward
Priceless expendature: shooting that rifle in matches.
Ballistic Mule
Member
Geissele SD3G,LaRue qd scope mount.
Both get five stars and are worth the extra coin IMO.
Both get five stars and are worth the extra coin IMO.
Chris Rhines
Member
My 3-gun rifles are essentially custom-built - lightweight match barrels, float tubes, drop-in trigger kits, etc, etc... If I had to start with a stock M16A4 or M4A1, the first thing I'd add would be an illuminated low-power variable scope in an ADM mount. Second thing I'd add would be an AR Gold drop-in trigger.
As an aside, I've seen a lot of homegrown trigger jobs either lock up the rifle completely, or start firing on release. I don't recommend them.
My defensive rifles, the first thing I'd add would be a compact, lightweight weapon light (Surefire X300 or similar.) Next would be some means of carrying a spare magazine on the gun.
-C
As an aside, I've seen a lot of homegrown trigger jobs either lock up the rifle completely, or start firing on release. I don't recommend them.
My defensive rifles, the first thing I'd add would be a compact, lightweight weapon light (Surefire X300 or similar.) Next would be some means of carrying a spare magazine on the gun.
-C
Hobie
Member
Telescopic sight...
HavelockLEO
Member
I've slowly tailored my Stag/RRA mid-length AR with an Adams Arms mid-length piston conversion and free float quad rail, Smith Ent. Vortex Flash eliminator, Magpul EBR stock and maximized aluminum trigger guard, Tango Down Battle grip and vertical foregrip, Troy BUIS and extended bolt release. Best addition is the Trijicon 3.5 power ACOG
usmarine0352_2005
member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2005
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How can you charge this with your right or left hand?
It looks like it's for charging with your left hand.
.
How can you charge this with your right or left hand?
It looks like it's for charging with your left hand.
.
Jaybird78
Member
In no order
Sling
and
Hogue grip, I can't stand the standard.
Sling
and
Hogue grip, I can't stand the standard.
Red Cent
Member
"As an aside, I've seen a lot of homegrown trigger jobs either lock up the rifle completely, or start firing on release. I don't recommend them."
I know you inadvertently
left out that your statement does not apply to those who are familar with the fire control group of the AR and they have developed such a knowledge that the geometry of the sear, disconnect, hammer, trigger, which was originally produced to maintain a "safety zone" for inexperienced troops but can be tuned (no filing, Dremels, or stoning) to its anticipated performance.
Hence, those that can tune a 1911, a K frame Smith, an 1187 shotgun, a SA Ruger or Colt just to name a few of the most popular, can apply their their knowledge to a simple device such as the AR.
I know you inadvertently
left out that your statement does not apply to those who are familar with the fire control group of the AR and they have developed such a knowledge that the geometry of the sear, disconnect, hammer, trigger, which was originally produced to maintain a "safety zone" for inexperienced troops but can be tuned (no filing, Dremels, or stoning) to its anticipated performance.Hence, those that can tune a 1911, a K frame Smith, an 1187 shotgun, a SA Ruger or Colt just to name a few of the most popular, can apply their their knowledge to a simple device such as the AR.
Zerodefect
member
Major- Rifle length Freefloat rails from Larue and Daniel Defense.
Minor- Magpul BAD lever.
Minor- Magpul BAD lever.
Chris Rhines
Member
If you think that you have the necessary skill and tooling, feel free to do anything to your AR trigger group that you like. I still don't recommend it.
-C
Red Cent
Member
If everybody bought "drop ins", firearms advancement would be much slower. Think John Moses Browning jumped on top of the 1911(or 1903) as the first thing he "tinkered" with?
I know, I know, you still wouldn't recommend it.
I know, I know, you still wouldn't recommend it.
Yes, you can operate the BCM Gunfighter with support hand much easier than the standard charging handle. The latch design on the BCM keeps the pressure from the pull centered on the rod so that you don't have to pull slightly to the left, or push to the right (whichever you have to during the pull back) to make sure it pulls back straight. You can essentially do it without your thumb pretty much.
BCM Gunfighter Explanation
Unless you are an absolute purist, this is a well spent $45.
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You CAN tune the AR trigger, and it's easily done by adding the travel adjustment screw. AS I said before, if it reduces the creep 80%, it also reduces the grit, too, because the sear engagement simply doesn't travel over those portions of the engagement surfaces. If you don't drive down a mile of country road to get to the creek, you don't suffer the bumpy ride. The shorter travel adjusts easily on the AR, and is self limiting by the design because too much jams the safety and the gun is obviously unfit to use.
A lighter trigger pull is accomplished by a weaker hammer spring, at that point, either a target designed trigger, or accepting that hard primers will become a problem is necessary. That's another point of the AR, too much screwing around with the dynamics is again self limiting. There's a lot of ways to mess it up, and some post every month how they did.
1) File, grind, or excessively stone the sear engagements. Don't. And if you do, expect to remove the case hardening and have the sears wear down in a few hundred rounds. Even the best trigger tuner in America can't prevent cheap case hardened parts from going soft when ground down.
2) Clip, cut, or unspring the hammer spring - which controls the weight of the pull. Don't. The AR is a COMBAT TACTICAL design, a 6-8 pound pull wasn't just a number picked off the dartboard to frustrate shooters. Adrenaline filled twentysomethings exiting armored combat vehicle hatches, banging through doorways, or fighting thru dense vegetation need the protection of a trigger pull they can depend on, not one that can be jarred off when dropped. It's there for a reason - to keep from shooting your buddy in the back. If you lighten it, take the responsibility to treat it for what it now is, a touchy range and bench gun, NOT a rough and tumble woods and combat bangstick.
3) For a hunting or home gun, you don't need to spend $100+ on a fancy drop in trigger. Especially if you only shoot it irregularly, like sighting in before the season. "Investing" in a good trigger only pays real dividends when you practice with it - thousands of rounds a year - otherwise, it's money wasted just sitting in the closet. You can spend $10,000 on tools and a roll around box to put them in, that expense doesn't make you a Nascar or Formula One mechanic. It does mean you don't have the money doing something else, so it costs you in lost opportunity or other value contribution. Simple Econ 101, most testosterone impacted beings have severe mental changes that preclude accepting this.
You CAN work on your trigger and make some changes, you just have to be smart enough to know what you CAN'T do. I have no problem with those recommending caution, but thats for the great unwashed. Those guys can break bowling balls and not even be trying.
A lighter trigger pull is accomplished by a weaker hammer spring, at that point, either a target designed trigger, or accepting that hard primers will become a problem is necessary. That's another point of the AR, too much screwing around with the dynamics is again self limiting. There's a lot of ways to mess it up, and some post every month how they did.
1) File, grind, or excessively stone the sear engagements. Don't. And if you do, expect to remove the case hardening and have the sears wear down in a few hundred rounds. Even the best trigger tuner in America can't prevent cheap case hardened parts from going soft when ground down.
2) Clip, cut, or unspring the hammer spring - which controls the weight of the pull. Don't. The AR is a COMBAT TACTICAL design, a 6-8 pound pull wasn't just a number picked off the dartboard to frustrate shooters. Adrenaline filled twentysomethings exiting armored combat vehicle hatches, banging through doorways, or fighting thru dense vegetation need the protection of a trigger pull they can depend on, not one that can be jarred off when dropped. It's there for a reason - to keep from shooting your buddy in the back. If you lighten it, take the responsibility to treat it for what it now is, a touchy range and bench gun, NOT a rough and tumble woods and combat bangstick.
3) For a hunting or home gun, you don't need to spend $100+ on a fancy drop in trigger. Especially if you only shoot it irregularly, like sighting in before the season. "Investing" in a good trigger only pays real dividends when you practice with it - thousands of rounds a year - otherwise, it's money wasted just sitting in the closet. You can spend $10,000 on tools and a roll around box to put them in, that expense doesn't make you a Nascar or Formula One mechanic. It does mean you don't have the money doing something else, so it costs you in lost opportunity or other value contribution. Simple Econ 101, most testosterone impacted beings have severe mental changes that preclude accepting this.
You CAN work on your trigger and make some changes, you just have to be smart enough to know what you CAN'T do. I have no problem with those recommending caution, but thats for the great unwashed. Those guys can break bowling balls and not even be trying.
Red Cent
Member
Tirod, if someone has the experience, they can file, sand, or stone. What is necessary is to put the hardness back. If you can play with fire and steel, you can make those parts as hard as some people's heads.
Now my suggestion (which is really old and has been used for years) does NOT suggest filing, sanding, or stoning.
And I did cut and bendeda spring or two. As I have done in a J frame, or a mainspring in a K frame (NOT THAT AGAIN!), or in a M1897 shotgun, or......................
Experience, experience,experience.
.Now my suggestion (which is really old and has been used for years) does NOT suggest filing, sanding, or stoning.
And I did cut and bended
a spring or two. As I have done in a J frame, or a mainspring in a K frame (NOT THAT AGAIN!), or in a M1897 shotgun, or......................Experience, experience,experience.
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