What rifle fills this need

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I don't know if this would work, but...have you considered getting one of your Garands tuned and scoped for long range shooting? I don't know how much accuracy you could wring out of an M1, but I'm pretty sure it can be tuned to be reasonable out to 800 yards or so.
RT
 
.300 Win Mag would be a capable round that's chambered in several good entry sporter rifles. I like Weatherby's Vanguard and the Howa Lightning both of which can be had for a little over $400. That'd leave $600 remaining for optics, maybe possible to get what you'd need there, but I don't think so.
 
About mounting a scope on an M1.

Yeah i have thought of that. I will be putting a scope on one but i dont know if i will spend the money to try and get it 1 MOA or such, not to mention i only have CMP surplus ammo for it. I dont know what type of MOA that will throw. As i have heard M1s have about 2.5-3 MOA am i wrong?

I live in the urban area so when i ever i shoot my rifles its in the desert where 3,000 wont be a problem or its at a out door range that has about 300yrds i think. I go to the desert more, as the out door range is only 1 hour closer out of a 4 hour drive. In for a foot in for a mile.
 
For versitality at all ranges out to 1,000 yards, I believe I would look for a .30 calibar rifle, probably Savage or Remington and if I were to reload, I would choose 30-06. With new powders the '06 can push a 180 grain bullet at around 3,000 fps. The military for many years used 167 +/- grain boat tail match ammo and again, reloading with good components and quality control, you should be able to make the old '06 reach out and touch something at a thousand on a pretty consistant basis. Just keep in mind that 1 moa at a hundred yards is about 1 inch. At 1,000 yards, it is about 10 inches.

If you are lucky, you might find a sub maginum 30 cal rifle that has an internal magazine capitity of 4 rounds plus one in the chamber. Your requirement for easy scope mounting pretty much rules out lever action rifles for 1,000 yard competition.
 
Consider a 7mm-08, better ballistics than the .308, drops less, and flies flatter.

If you are planning on shooting those kinds of distances... you will probably want to reload your own. Most of the guys that shoot a those ranges do.
 
"...A .308 is generally about an 800 yard rifle..." Rubbish. The .308 has long been a 1,000 yard cartridge with the right bullet and load. Look at the Palma matches. 155 grain bullets at 1,000 yards, only. 175 grain match bullets are regularly shot at 1,000 too.
Forget the tube mag. They're lever actions. Lever actions, in any calibre, are not accurate enough for 1,000 yard shooting. There are all kinds of 5 round bolt action target rifles though.
Look into a used, heavy barreled, .308, bolt action. Used isn't a bad thing either. It really takes a lot of abuse to damage a modern target rifle. Target shooter's don't abuse their toys either. To find one, go to any NRA or CMP long range match and ask around.
Two things will very likely happen. One, you'll be invited to try a rifle or two, you'll meet a bunch of really great people who will help you and two, you may find a decent rifle for sale.
 
I will one day reload my own ammo. Right now i buy it cheap...surplus and keep the brass after i fire it. I dont have the money to start reloading right now. But i will later after i get my new job hopefully, have 3 interviews this week. If i do reload thats one reason i would stick to 30-06, reload for my M1 and my "savage" rifle, and i plan to get a 1903 some day too to complete my American wwII collection i seem to have going.


RonE- Do you know what a Savage 30-06 will do in terms of MOA? assuming of course the shooter who knows what hes doing.


Thanks for everyones help, you helped put things in prospective what can and cant be done.


This looks like my target rifle

http://www.savagearms.com/111gcns.htm

Hunter Series
Model 111GCNS – with AccuTrigger™ and detachable box
Action Long
Caliber
25-06 Rem, 270 Win, 30-06 Spfld, 7mm Rem Mag, 300 Win Mag
Overall Length
43.25" (25-06 Rem, 270 Win, 30-06 Spfld)

Barrel Length
22" (25-06 Rem, 270 Win, 30-06 Spfld)

Weight
7 lbs (25-06 Rem, 270 Win, 30-06 Spfld)

Magazine Capacity-4 rounds/5 with one in brrl

Stock Walnut finshed hardwood with cut checkering

Sights
Drilled and tapped for scope mounts
Rifling Rate of Twist
25-06 Rem, 270 Win, 30-06 Spfld, 300 Win Mag, (1 in 10")

Features
New detachable box magazine, AccuTriggerTM, blued barreled action, free-floating and button-rifled barrel, and swivel studs.
Suggested
Retail
$613.00--$518 real price
 
mindwip,

Ideally, for that kind of range you want something that has a bullet (not cartridge, bullet) that has at least a .400 ballistic coefficient. Of those listed, the .25-'06 is the best non-magnum candidate and the 7mm is the best magnum candidate.

With the .25-'06 you could form brass from your .30-'06 cases and load it with a bullet like this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=210346

And yes, if you're going to shoot at that kind of range, it's just about a MUST that you handload. Don't be afraid of it. You can get set up to load one caliber pretty cheaply and you can load WAY better ammo than you can buy.

The thing about ballistic coefficient is actually a very simple concept that most shooters don't really grasp. It's as simple as the answer to the question, "Why are rockets long and skinny and not short and fat?" The answer being of course, because they fly better that way.

A good example is that a 150 gr. 7mm bullet has a greater long range accuracy potential than a 150 gr. .30 cal. bullet. Because the 7mm bullet is skinnier (.284 as opposed to .308), it has to be longer to be the same weight as the .30 cal. bullet, so, everything else being equal, it will have a higher BC than the .30 cal. bullet and will be a better performer at long range because it has less drag.

Good luck to you.

:)
 
i found this on a website:

At about the same time, the M1 Garand found a second life with match shooters. A .30-06 M1 Garand properly bedded and barreled, with match sights, could hold its own with the M14/M1A or the M16/AR15 match rifle any day, at any range up to 1,000 yards. The author has proved this to his own satisfaction with his own Armory-built Type 3 National Match M1 Garand and with an M1 Garand match rifle built by custom gunsmith Jim Gronning, C&J Gunsmithing of Riverside, California.


found here:
http://www.northcapepubs.com/m1gar.htm#Restoring an M1 Garand

i would seriously look into maybe having one of those garands you already have (lucky basterd) rebuilt, and tuned by a garand specialist. you might be able to save money buy using a rifle you already have. the m1 garand is a great weapon.

if you alooking to get ride of one to fund some more of your project..... drop me am IM!!!
 
You could do $1800-1900 for something that can reach out to 800 yds +. I am going with a Tikka T3 lite SS in 6.5x55, has better ballistics than a .308 and less recoil. I am going with a U.S Optics ST-10 fixed 10x scope you can go with an US Optics SN3 for about $1900 that has 3-17x . the rifle has a 1 moa guarantee . Almost everyone that has one says with handloads the gun can easily get sub-moa accuracy. I hope this helps... also you can get semi flush fit mags too...
 
I have been looking more about savage and it seems that you can change barrels fairly easy if you stick to the same action? So i could buy a 30-06 rifle and then later buy a 7mm barrel and 7mm mag and be happy as a clam...right?
Also with Savage being so poplar maybe a came get a nice used one too.

Should i opt for stainless steel?? do i really need it for shooting in the desert and such. I wont be hunting with it for sure. Save the money on the non-stainless steel and spend that on a better scope? I am making my own 47 pound self bow to hunt with right now and with a .22 that takes care of anything i would want to hunt.


s2brutus-- i am strongly looking at the 7mm and 30-06, reading reviews and what the average opinion is on it. Hard choice...:uhoh:

PremiumSauces-- i like that model but i find the stock too um well not my taste to put it nicely. And at $1,193.00 puts it out of my price range


brian923-- i will be putting a scope on one of them soon some thing like 3-9 power. Very low key for shooting out to 500yrds or less. But i dont plan on making it out to a long distance shooter. The reason i have 3 is for parts in the future if need be, i have one field grade i shoot as is and one that will get a scope and the last is a gift to my dad thats "his" to shoot. Making one field grade and two are service grade, i will never sell even if i am home less... i will be the best armed homeless:scrutiny:


Greenspartan117--$1800 is just too far for my buget, if i cant get that far with 1,000ish then it will have to be so. Thats why i am looking at the $600-$700 models of savage that leaves $400-$500 for scope and mount.
 
If choosing between the 7mm mag. and the '06 for long range shooting, I'd have to give my nod to the 7mm.

Same rule applies regarding ballistic coefficients with 7mm vs. .30 cal. as applied with .25 cal. vs. .30 cal. There's greater accuracy potential with the relatively longer, skinnier bullets of the same overall weight in 7 mag. as opposed to '06.

Everything else being equal, a 150 gr. 7 mag. ought to outshoot a 150 gr. '06 at long range all day long.

:)
 
1000 yard shooting for under $1000! You'd be better of buying a knife and spending the rest of the money on a treadmill.
 
A Savage out of the box will be less than a grand and deliver 1.0moa or better accuracy with the proper ammunition. .300 WM would be my prefered calibre. But, to get that 1,000yrd spot on, you'll be spending as much or more for a quality scope. For example: 2nd from top was purchased at walmart about 10 years ago for $349.00... The scope is a premire reticle prepped Leupold VariXIII 4.5x20. In 1996 dollars the scope was over $800.00

Both of my Savages (2nd and 3rd from top), are 0.5 MOA guns out of the box. Each have optics costing more than the gun they're mounted on

DSC00034.jpg
 
Have you actually looked down a 1,000 yard range? Do you realize how far that is? Over half a mile is a long way out. And MOA at 100 yards does NOT equal MOA at 1,000 yards in real world shooting. Personal experience has shown me that my rifles that shoot well under MOA at 100 and 200 typically go over 1.5 at 1,000.

You can certainly reach out that far with most any rifle mentioned in this thread, but don't be surprised when you find it difficult to even hit a 55 gallon drum at that distance.

I would start out much closer, like 100. When you can cover your 100 yard groups with a quarter, then move to 200, and so on. Starting at 1,000 when you've never shot distance is just throwing bullets down range.
 
Please dont get me wrong i in no way think i am a "good" rifle shot...yet. In fact i have stated so. My plan is to start out shooting at closer distances and as i get better move out.

So i want a rifle that will be able to shot that far so that when i am ready i dont have to buy a new rifle for it.


Do i know what 1,000 yrds is yes i do i ran cross country/track and field i have a very good idea about distances from running them. Looking down the road saying thats 100yrds 400 yrds 800yrds 1200 1miles 3 miles 12 miles and running it, i know what it looks like every step of the way. There is also a park here called mile square park that is well a park thats one mile on each side.

I would start out much closer, like 100. When you can cover your 100 yard groups with a quarter, then move to 200, and so on. Starting at 1,000 when you've never shot distance is just throwing bullets down range.
Click to expand...

Of course i will not run before i walk:D I will get a rifle i can grow into.
 
I would go with a 6.5-284 if you can have one made in your price range. Then I would go with a good nikon to top it off.
 
Based on your 10:27pm post, I would seriously consider, depending on how much rifle experience you have, either a quality bolt-action rimfire (like a Savage Mark II with accutrigger, or a CZ452, or various others) or, if you have decent rifle experience, something nice in .223, which will cost you half as much to shoot as anything else centerfire, and be quite accurate and useful out to 600 yards or so; and capable of being used for paper out to 1000 yards with the right bullet choice. You could get the new Savage Mark 25 in .223 for somewhere around $500 and spend the other $500 on optics.

http://www.savagearms.com/25model_LightweightVarminter.htm

Various posters have mentioned some excellent long-range calibers, but they're pricey if you do reload, and extremely pricey if you don't reload.

Now, if price were no issue (ha, ha) I would be thinking Accuracy International - Artic Warfare Magnum in .338 Lapua. Of course these start at $6000, and figure at least $2000 for a scope worthy of it:

http://www.tacproshootingcenter.com/AccuracyInternational.html
 
Ever thought about a 200 dollar K-31, or a 400 dollar 6.5X55 Swedish Mauser? Properly scoped they'll get you where you want to be, and you'll have enough cash left over to buy a whole grip of ammo.
 
some good and bad advice so far...

Your initial inquiry was all over the map with contradictory things like shooting 1000yards and having a tubular magazine, but you seem eager to learn and hey everyone has to start somewhere. First off, due to reasonable recoil vs performance, ammo availabilty, proven inherent accuracy, for a new person to long range shooting a 308 will do everything you need for years to come. Not that there is anything wrong with 30-06, 25-06, 7mm-08 etc...those are all great rounds but anyone who says a 308 won't get to 1000yds is simply wrong. plenty of people do it in matches across the country. It also depends if you just want to shoot at the long ranges for pleasure/casual competition with your buddies or you want to win matches. Unless you want to be extremely competetive at the regional level, you don't need to handload. It is cheaper for sure but black hills and federal GMM out of a good rifle and good optics will be capable of more accuracy than a new guy to the sport(and likely many other people here, myself included) can utilize at 1000. if you set yourself up with a remington pss, decent leupold, and one of those ammo choices, doping wind etc... will be a bigger issue for you than rifle accuracy, this rig will shoot .75 moa or better. As someone mentioned, that will likely not hold up all the way out to 1000, .75" groups at 100 is one thing, 7.5" groups at 1000 is a whole 'nother ball game.
I'm sure the savage is a great rifle too, but I haven't owned one so I can't vouch for it, but I hear great things about them.
Ballistically of course the 7mm mag is awesome, but if you are at all recoil averse it will not be a good choice for a newer shooter. Really getting some trigger time is the biggest thing, all the hair splitting between calibers is much less important unless you get into some very serious competitive matches.
 
My understanding is that on a real budget like that, a lot of guys will get a Stephens 200, replace the barrel with a custom (probably run with 6.5-284 norma but many calibers would work), replace the stock with a good one like HS precision or McMillan, replace the trigger group, bed the action, put a quality 20 MOA base on it, quality rings, and a quality scope (on a budget the Super Sniper is popular). It might be a tad over $1,000 but right in there, depending on your barrel maker's price and gunsmith charge to assemble it.

Check out snipershide, snipercentral, and 6mmbenchrest.com
 
What I really think you'll want, considering how you're just starting out, is a really cheap rifle chambered in a round that is CAPABLE of reaching that distance, and use the majority of the money on a good scope.

Don't even worry about hitting the target. A rifle that cheap probably won't do that reliably. But it'll work wonders in helping you get used to the kind of shooting at that distance. I recommend a Mosin Nagant. Not an M44, the long barreled kind. I think they're absolutely butt ugly, but they are dirt cheap, there's ways to mount scopes on them, and you can get aftermarket stocks later if the original wood is objectionable.

And even if the Mosin Nagant won't be reliably HITTING targets at 1000yd yet, if you can get some coaching, you will be able to practice your shooting position, breathing, and all the other stuff that goes into long distance shooting.

And when you're ready (financially, mentally, physically, however you want to think of it), you don't need to spend any more money on glass. Just take the scope off the Mosin Nagant, and put it on your new long-distance target rifle.

And then think about getting an inexpensive scout scope put on the Mosin. They're supposed to make pretty darn good hunting rifles.
 
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