Where to Buy? What's in Stock? 1860's at Bud's for $271.

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arcticap said:
Not doing the exchange?
If it fit, you'd be the only guy the block with one of those.
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I tried but they are giving me a hassle. When I first placed this order they used email confirmation only and then created an account sans password without my permission.

The bobo bot emails I get from them in response to my exchange request link me straight to a create an account prompt on their website asking me to create a new password. I replied and explained I just wanted a shipping label sent to me so I can exchange without registering to create an account.

I don't like creating accounts on websites. I just want to pay and get an honest deal. The next bobo bot email sent in reply linked me to the same create account page. I responded explaining I don't want to register and that email bounced back to me as unmonitored.

My only option may be to challenge this payment with my credit company and in the meantime enjoy the conversations this interesting paperweight stimulates while I wait.

Another thing to keep in mind with these FULLY fluted cylinders is if your cylinder locking latch springs a little early which is common and accepted as within spec in these Italian imports the latch may fall in between the flutes and bind the cylinder from turning. It should not be a problem if the latch times perfectly or if the cylinder is semi fluted.

On the 1858 that I know of it's borderline. You can feel the locking latch drag up the cylinder flute curve but it does not spring early enough to land in between. I suppose if for some reason the latch winds up between the flutes you may have to rest the hammer and re-cock. I don't know at this point what I should do.
 
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Jim

Definitely some nice looking wood and metalwork on that Uberti Remington Revolving carbine!
 
Dixie Gun Works must have received a shipment of both Pietta and Uberti revolvers.

Some of the Pietta revolvers include the Dixie 1851 .44 Navy steel, 1858 .44 Remington with oversized frame & grips, 1858 .36 Remington Belt Pistol, 1860 Army Steel .44, Pietta .44 Remington Kit with oversized frame & grips, and Uberti Walker kit are all in stock.

I didn't check their Uberti stock but they have "on sale" prices listed for some of them. --->>> https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index/page/category/category_id/321/name/Percussion/#product_listing=?current_page=1&results_per_page=16&order_by=category_product_position&search_params=&search_params=

Revolver kits: --->>> https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index/page/category/category_id/327/name/Percussion/
 
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A few thoughts come to mind. I noticed the FULL fluted 1860 Army by Uberti is less expensive (on sale) than the regular model. If you plan to get a separate FULL fluted cylinder then maybe it's better to buy the full fluted version for less and purchase a standard spare cylinder for less as well.

Another thought off the top of my head is I discovered not too long ago that while the cylinder locking latch dropping too early aside from leaving an unsightly drag line is not a big deal on a gun with a non fluted or semi-fluted cylinder since the latch will just spring into the cylinder locking notch when the cylinder rotates into locking position. On a gun with a FULL fluted cylinder it can fall into the flutes locking the cylinder out of battery or in an area where the flute curves upward in which case you will know the meaning of the word drag.

I figure a gun with a FULL fluted cylinder will not pass a simple function test unless the cylinder locking notch is reasonably timed while a gun with a regular or semi fluted cylinder with still work fine it the the locking latch drops much earlier. If the factory or sellers ever do any reasonable function tests (something to be honest I am not sure of) maybe you have less of a chance of getting a gun with timing too early that is determined to be "good enough" because a fully fluted gun will not function properly with mediocre cylinder locking latch timing of the early variety.

This may be more of a question but I am under the impression that purchasing a FULL fluted model may increase your chances significantly of getting a gun with a properly timed locking latch. Can I add that to a possible advantage of getting a fully fluted gun

This is moot of course if the gun can be inspected before buying by someone who knows what to look for.
 
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grter said:
Another thought off the top of my head is I discovered not too long ago that while the cylinder locking latch dropping too early aside from leaving an unsightly drag line is not a big deal on a gun with a non fluted or semi-fluted cylinder since the latch will just spring into the cylinder locking notch when the cylinder rotates into locking position. On a gun with a FULL fluted cylinder it can fall into the flutes locking the cylinder out of battery or in an area where the flute curves upward in which case you will know the meaning of the word drag.
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A complete drag/turn line on the cylinder is only possible if the bolt (your cylinder locking latch) head is too high because the bolt should be fully retracted from slightly before the half-cock position until immediately prior to the full-cock position. A full-fluted cylinder still has the same bolt stop-slot approaches as the engraved rebated cylinder; if the bolt is dropping early enough to engage the cylinder flutes (way before the earliest part of the approaches), that can only mean a damaged hammer cam or the adjacent bolt leg is damaged. If the bolt is dropping that soon, it is far beyond a matter of timing: it is time for part(s) replacement.

This may be more of a question but I am under the impression that purchasing a FULL fluted model may increase your chances significantly of getting a gun with a properly timed locking latch. Can I add that to a possible advantage of getting a fully fluted gun.
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Why would Uberti, Pietta, Armi San Marco, et al, (who all produced both engraved cylinder and full-fluted cylinder versions of an 1860 Army) pay more attention to the timing of a full-fluted revolver than it would one with an engraved cylinder? That makes no sense.

I have an ASM 1860 Army BD/1994 that I purchased as a used shooter, unmodified, about two years ago. This is the time period that many ASM observers think that ASM produced lesser quality revolvers, compared to earlier production (ASM folded in ~2002). It came with an original engraved cylinder that has no drag/turn line. I wanted a full-fluted cylinder for it, but since ASM parts are as scarce as hens' teeth, I did some research and found that an Uberti full-fluted cylinder was within a few thousandths of an inch in length and diameter of the original ASM cylinder. (Pietta cylinders are longer and larger in diameter.) IIRC, there was a familial relationship with Aldo Uberti and his niece who was part of the ASM management. That may explain a bit about parts fitment.

In 2018 I bought one from VTI, fully expecting it might not fit and would have to return it, unused. Much to my great surprise, it was a drop-in fit, and the chambers aligned very well with the barrel both vertically and horizontally. It shoots very well and I have encountered no problems with the entire revolver, and there are no instances of the bolt dropping anywhere near the flutes.

ASM-1860-Army-Fluted-Cylinder-007a.jpg

I noticed the FULL fluted 1860 Army by Uberti is less expensive (on sale) than the regular model. If you plan to get a separate FULL fluted cylinder then maybe it's better to buy the full fluted version for less and purchase a standard spare cylinder for less as well.
Click to expand...

That is good advice if there are any left to procure. Either cylinder on VTI or Taylor's goes for ~$100. The pandemic in Italy has hit those factories hard with the ensuing second lockdown, and I don't perceive much, if any, production in the near future or even beyond. Expect prices to increase very much as supplies dwindle down to next to nothing. As for now and in the foreseeable future, the value of extant revolvers in private hands will increase quite a bit, and maybe dramatically if the Italian factories are forced to possibly re-organize in a corporate fashion. That is why I am holding on to all of my BP C&B revolvers as a hedge until this all pans out.

It ain't over until the fat lady sings.

Regards,

Jim
 
:)The 1858 I know of has the latch dropping about 2/3 the distance from notch to notch leaving a slight drag line in leading to the notch. I do not know of any replica muzzle loader that has perfect cylinder latch lockup out of the box. All of them drop that locking latch somewhere before the locking notch on the cylinder. Some closer some further. This seems to be the norm for the replicas.

Now some correction was done :D because not even a brand new locking latch had the arms long enough for proper timing so some high tech expert work with a coarse bastard file and mini files were needed after some finesse work done by bashing and pounding the arms with a 2 lb hammer causing massive deformation :what: but hey the arms were longer after that. :neener: After finessing and working on the wrong arm with coarse files and wondering if all was lost it was discovered that the other arm just needed some shaping and angling in the right places. After shaping the mashed pancake to scratched up perfection with some file marks (stress risers ??? I guess I will find out over time) Timing became perfect so it's replacement fluted cylinder should have no problems with obvious drag.:)

The front part of the cylinder on those Colts have the engraving. The back where the cylinder locking latch is does not.

I imagine on the Colt with the rebated cylinder the fluting is not as deep in the rear as in a Remington with a non-rebated cylinder but I think it would still be felt if the locking latch dropped into the flute or anywhere where there is an uphill curve. Thats what I call built in quality control. The Colt also has cutouts leading into the locking notches which keeps locking notch peening to a minimum. By design I can see the locking latch is supposed to drop before reaching the cylinder locking notch on a Colt.
 
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expat_alaska said:
Uberti Remington 1858 Revolving Carbine .44. Looks very nice with an 18" barrel. Very good candidate for a conversion cylinder. Out of my price range.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/882601233
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There is one of those coming up for auction on proxibid very soon. I put a bid on it when it was still in "my" price range. I think it is sitting at around $600. right now.

Correction, it is only up to $150.00 as of a few min. ago.
 
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That looks a lot like the Powder inc. Cylinder loader for $90.00

https://powderinc.com/product/cylinder-loader/

It's a very good product they also have a newer beefed up version for $110.00 https://powderinc.com/product/cylinder-loader-2/ with 4 cylinder pins. They also brag that version 2 can load pepper box pistols as well.

I have never handled the version 2 it does look worthy of consideration though for only $20.00 extra. Version 1 is built like a tank and from what I know is pretty close to flawless in doing the job it is built for.

Version 1 is made of all steel (not stainless steel) and judging from the looks I would be 99% sure version 2 is also.

I believe they are Made in USA as well.
 
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grter said:
That looks a lot like the Powder inc. Cylinder loader for $90.00
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Maybe they will accept an offer for $75 to $85 shipped.
They can either say no or make a counteroffer.
Powder Inc. must be making a percentage on the $90 model.
But the seller still needs to pay eBay a commission of 11% - 14% including Paypal.
 
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DGW got a shipment in early this week:

RH0705 Pietta Colt 1860 Army (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0230 Uberti 1st Model Dragoon (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0232 Uberti 2nd Model Dragoon (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0234 Uberti 3rd Model Dragoon - Mililtary Model (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0420 Uberti 1861 Navy Revolver (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0700 Uberti 1860 Army Revolver (dixiegunworks.com)

RH1019 Uberti 1851 Navy Revolver (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0450 Uberti Walker Revolver (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0100 Dixie Pietta 1851 Brass Frame Navy Revolver (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0210 Dixie Pietta 1851 Navy - Steel Frame (dixiegunworks.com)

SSB204 1851 NAVY BRASS FRAME REVOLVER (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0611 Uberti Leech and Rigdon Revolver (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0850 Pietta M1851 NAVY YANK LONDON REVOLVE (dixiegunworks.com)

RH0841 PIETTA MODEL 1861 NAVY REVOLVER 36 CA (dixiegunworks.com)
 
Picked up a 1862 uberti police .36 at the gun works today and they do have two more in stock.

http://www.thegunworks.com
Just under $400. which may be a bit high, but I haven't been able to find them anywhere else right now.
 
I was initially optimistic about the newer production models due to a positive youtube review but I have to say it seems like it's the same old story as in the past. I don't know how much of them are good or not these days but the current production one I handled is going to need a lot of work. It jams frequently. It also appears to be well timed sometimes and out of time at others. The cylinder over rotates (throw by) enough times to be a concern. The front end seems to be a little loose around the arbor, on the borderline between too loose and fair-acceptable.

At times it runs great and then later turns into a total jam box.

The problems seem inconsistent, random, and unpredictable.

A reputable gunsmith who does great work tuning Uberti Colt Navys and Armies for cowboy action shooting flat out refused to work on it and said he does not have anything good to say about the pocket model .36 cal navies, police, nor the .31 caliber versions.

I really like the looks and feel of them but I think this is going to be more work than simple de-burring, minor adjustments, and arbor correction.

It's not inexpensive either.

Let us know if yours is better please.
 
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The timing seems ok, but it was jamming up quite a bit. However, I think that may have been a cap issue. I was using CCI caps, but finally found some more remington #10 caps and they seem to fit much better. I will see how it acts, next time I take it out and LYK.
 
I filed one arm of the locking latch so the locking latch falls a litter earlier. I also filed down some machining process steps on the hammer around the cylinder locking latch cam. quite a bit of the safety pins were damaged peened and I don't know how or why so I smoothed out the edges where the back of the cylinder rides. I also thinned the cylinder locking latch a little which I shouldn't have done (slight rattle) but it's still good and not out of time. The work seemed to help but the problems still came back from time to time.

Bottoming out the arbor (tiny drill press #6 machine screw with #6 tap set and filing with trial and error) so the barrel was tight and would not budge not even a little when I attempted to flex it back and forth seems to have solved all the problems but I can't figure out why.

The hammer safety notch looks like it's already smooth with no sharp edges.

It's still early but I am a lot more optimistic (after a good deal of work.)

So far so good ?


Update 12/12/2020 good news it's now behaving like a cap and ball revolver should.
 
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