3D Printed Hornady Lock n Load bushings

[Highland Lofts]

Any one use the 3D printed Hornady Lock n Load bushings?.
I bought some when you couldn't find any real bushings If your life depended on it.
I don't like them at all.
If you use them what dies do you use them for?
I gave the ones I didn't use away.
With thing some what back to normal again I have been buying a bunch of the steel bushings to have on hand .
Just picked up 45 of them.

 

[NMexJim]

Huh, I didn’t know there was such a thing! Who’d thunk it. I’ve managed to stay ahead of that curve.

 

[JmacD]

Bought some. Hated em. Use on on my 9mm “flare” die. They seem to crush in everything else. I’ve now got a stockpile of the real ones. No more of the plastic.

 

[Highland Lofts]

I set one of them up to do the flaring and tossed it in the trash.
Original steel bushings for me.

 

[GW Staar]

3D printed parts do have limitations due to the material. My bullet feeder dies work wonderful.....but you don't have to subject it to the pressure a sizer or even a seater has to tolerate.. The threads can't handle more than just a bare minimum. The bullet feeder dies aren't subjected to any pressure so they work and don't wear out.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I've always had a supply of LNL bushings on hand so it isn't an issue with my reloading. I was given a 3D printed one by a friend to try out.

After inspection it and understanding the sear forces applied to the lugs in the reloading process, I would be reluctant to use one for anything except my Powder Cop. Maybe at my powder measure station...without PTX installed or my Bullet Feeder die

 

[jmorris]

I’d just use locking split set collars on the dies and remove and replace them into the steel bushings myself and I have a 3D printer.

Set your die and lock the ring down, now you can remove and replace them without changing the “setting”.

 

[GW Staar]

Yep I do like the Hornady Lock Rings, I use them a lot. You just don't select the wrong tool for the wrong job. I have experimented with 3D printing staying within the material's capabilities......works great and gives new options in the right uses, but plastic does not replace metal. These bullet feeders work perfectly....so much so that I replaced my Hornady pistol bullet feeders with these.....

and found them 100% in dropping bullets.....unlike the Hornady steel ones.......but there is zero pressure, zero wear. So then when I got the itch to try feeding and seating in one station, I knew the same thing applied.....no pressure, no wear, so the design had to take that in account. Video below:



So the feed part was no problem just a simple from the bottom plunger to release the bullets to a ramp. The only pressure in the operation is the seating......but the all metal RCBS Gold Medal Seater can handle that......while my 3D printed coupler just screws on above the die nut just to hold it in place. The seater and nut does all the work.

Mind you.....in the video test, the seater was adjusted mimimally, just enough to start seating, but not enough I couldn't pull them apart after the test by hand.

 

[JmacD]

I’d just use locking split set collars on the dies and remove and replace them into the steel bushings myself and I have a 3D printer.

Set your die and lock the ring down, now you can remove and replace them without changing the “setting”.

View attachment 1174735

I took the silly Lee “lock” ring off my FCD, and threw it in the trash! Hornady design and a the best on in my opinion. I’ve had terrible success with most of the 3D printed stuff. There was one vendor I bought some from(on Amazon somewhere) that threw in a printed rack to hold the bushings. Now, that’s worth buying.

 

[alfsauve]

Very Cool. If I used a bullet feeder I'd give it a try.

Have you posted that to ThingVerse?

 

[GW Staar]

Very Cool. If I used a bullet feeder I'd give it a try.

Have you posted that to ThingVerse?

Not on Thingiverse.......but the print files are posted here on my favorite gun reloading site......
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/feednseat-in-one-save-a-station.917972/

 

[dannyd]

I have a couple of bushings.

 

[GW Staar]

Any one use the 3D printed Hornady Lock n Load bushings?.
I bought some when you couldn't find any real bushings If your life depended on it.

So now we know what happened to Hornady bushings, back when they were a rare as hen's teeth! dannyd bought them all.....

 

[cfullgraf]

I took the silly Lee “lock” ring off my FCD, and threw it in the trash!

Are you speaking if these? I think they have merit. I have a few to try but have not put them on any dies yet. I'd probably ditch the o-ring.

The small wrench woukd be easy to store with my other bench top press tools. They take up less space than a combination wrench or an adjustable that fits the Hornady flats.

But, yes, the Hornady split lock rings.

Different strokes for different folks.

Finally, I have no use for the the old standard Lee hex o-ring lock rings. There is no way to lock the ring to the die and I'd rather not spend the time modifying the ring to add a locking feature.

 

[GW Staar]

I agree. I quite like them. On the Lee 6000 there just isn't room to put the Hornady's on....too small a distance between dies.

However, sometimes even that little handy Lee wrench just can't navigate the limited space......so I got into my old car body tools and found a nifty door handle remover that saved the day (see video below).....but I can't find a new one for to spread the joy, for love or money. They gotta be out there, but I can't find them......maybe nobody has '67 Mustangs to remove door handles from any more.......



BTW, on the 3Dprinting uses that work subject, The next video shows two more uses that work great.....

The cover for my RCBS Rifle bullet feeder is on the left....which holds it together during handling and prevents a stupid user like me from dumping the ball bearings.
The reason for the video is using 3d printing to make a bore scope powder checker that works quite well....which with the seven station press doesn't need and off station way to do it.

 

[cfullgraf]

I agree. I quite like them. On the Lee 6000 there just isn't room to put the Hornady's on....too small a distance between dies.

However, sometimes even that little handy Lee wrench just can't navigate the limited space......so I got into my old car body tools and found a nifty door handle remover that saved the day (see video below).....but I can't find a new one for to spread the joy, for love or money. They gotta be out there, but I can't find them......maybe nobody has '67 Mustangs to remove door handles from any more.......

This looks similar to your tool, it might work.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lisle/paint---body-repair/body-repair/body---trim-tools/body---trim-tools/c0de1837cf63/lisle-windshield-molding-door-handle-clip-pliers/lis0/35200

 

[JmacD]

View attachment 1175030
Are you speaking if these? I think they have merit. I have a few to try but have not put them on any dies yet. I'd probably ditch the o-ring.

The small wrench woukd be easy to store with my other bench top press tools. They take up less space than a combination wrench or an adjustable that fits the Hornady flats.

But, yes, the Hornady split lock rings.

Different strokes for different folks.

Finally, I have no use for the the old standard Lee hex o-ring lock rings. There is no way to lock the ring to the die and I'd rather not spend the time modifying the ring to add a locking feature.

Not exactly because that has a “set screw”. The one I was referring to does not and depends only on the o-ring to hold it.

 

[GW Staar]

This looks similar to your tool, it might work.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lisle/paint---body-repair/body-repair/body---trim-tools/body---trim-tools/c0de1837cf63/lisle-windshield-molding-door-handle-clip-pliers/lis0/35200

That looks close enough.......sure is handy. Mind you, it scratches the nuts......and I don't give a rats behind.....it works where not much else does in close quarters like that.

Not exactly because that has a “set screw”. The one I was referring to does not and depends only on the o-ring to hold it.

Have to agree......I won't use nuts without a setscrew.....period. A disaster waiting to happen. I only buy these for die settings that are critical ....

I
IMO, the "O" rings have no good purpose but to make it harder to repeat a setting....an annoyance.....but I haven't removed them....maybe I should..... then again, maybe they make it easier to not overtighten and cause their plastic wrench to become worthless.;

 

[dannyd]

99% of what I load is 38 special or 357 magnum (38 special loads), so I have a seater die for each of these bullets. Quick change is easy with the bushings, same with the powder measures.

 

[Kp321]

When using Lee dies in my 550, I take the Lee lock rings off, remove the o-ring, and turn them over. After the dies are set properly, I use a brass punch to tighten the lock ring securely. The splines give a good place to tap and is easier than trying to get a wrench on a hex lock ring in the tight space.

 

[9mmepiphany]

On the Lee 6000 there just isn't room to put the Hornady's on....too small a distance between dies

While fussing with my Lee 6k this weekend, I discovered that there are 3 kinds of set screws that Lee used on their Spline Bushings...Phillips, Straight, and Allen

1. The Phillips is very soft and easy to strip
2. The Straight edge is easy to adjust but protrudes enough beyond the splines to interfere with the splines on the bushing of the die next to it
3. The Allen screw is tough and fits easily between the splines between bushings

 

[9mmepiphany]

The small wrench woukd be easy to store with my other bench top press tools. They take up less space than a combination wrench or an adjustable that fits the Hornady flats.

Consider looking into a Locknut Wrench

That's what I've been using on my Lee Pro6k

 

[GW Staar]

While fussing with my Lee 6k this weekend, I discovered that there are 3 kinds of set screws that Lee used on their Spline Bushings...Phillips, Straight, and Allen

1. The Phillips is very soft and easy to strip
2. The Straight edge is easy to adjust but protrudes enough beyond the splines to interfere with the splines on the bushing of the die next to it
3. The Allen screw is tough and fits easily between the splines between bushings

Guess I was lucky.....all I've acquired was the Allen Screw version......maybe that's where they ended...but shoulda been where they started!

As for that lock nut wrench....I tried a version of that first. the concept is right but you are very limited when things are crowded....works in some cases great...in others I couldn't find an angle. Speaking of angle.....notice in my video that I was able to come in from the top at an angle and grasp and turn. Don't know of a better tool. One that drops down won't work either, because every station has things in the way to get it down over it.

 

[GW Staar]

cfullgraf's find is on Amazon and a little cheaper......just under $12 before shipping. My OReillys (3 in town) didn't have them in stock....but said by 8 in the morning they would if you order. Would save shipping so that may be still be the best way. On mine the black ends are slightly curved and may help ...... but these you could vice them and bend whatever you want.



https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35200-...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER