5.7x28mm case question

[RadBear]

I successfully created 5 test rounds that functioned in my Ruger 57. I assembled the rest of my rounds using American Eagle once fired brass. I went to drop it in the ammo checker and over half have some sort of weird ring bulge I didn't notice earlier. This leads me to two questions I'm hoping the group can help me with:

1. What caused the bulge? Is this a result of the first firing that wasn't resized by my dies? Did I overlube and cause it while resizing? Could happen during bullet seating?

2. Will resizing the brass again fix it, or do I just recycle it?

 

[Blue68f100]

Where is the ring located at? Base ... Shoulder .......

 

[thump_rrr]

If it's at the shoulder it's scrap.
Here is a good thread to check out.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/5-7-journey-join-me.885664/page-6

 

[RadBear]

Where is the ring located at? Base ... Shoulder .......

Just below the shoulder

 

[Mark_Mark]

anybody else afraid to load 5.7? it’s so complicated, seen a box of FN 5.7 for $39 the other day… was thinking about it seriously

 

[ParallelCode]

anybody else afraid to load 5.7? it’s so complicated, seen a box of FN 5.7 for $39 the other day… was thinking about it seriously

I wouldn't consider owning a 5.7 because of the complexity.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I wouldn't consider owning a 5.7 because of the complexity.

I bought one becuse it was during the Pandeme and I had $650 burning in my pocket. When are the Russian Steel core with lacquer costing 5.7 going to hit the US market ??? can wait for Tula 5.7 $5.99/20 to be back on Walmart shelves

 

[RadBear]

anybody else afraid to load 5.7? it’s so complicated, seen a box of FN 5.7 for $39 the other day… was thinking about it seriously

Palmetto State Armory sells American Eagle for 39.99.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Palmetto State Armory sells American Eagle for 39.99.

is it wrong that I think that’s too expensive!

handloaders are so cheap

 

[N555]

anybody else afraid to load 5.7? it’s so complicated, seen a box of FN 5.7 for $39 the other day… was thinking about it seriously

I helped develope some of the first loads for 5.7x28 when dies became available.
It's definitely unforgiving and not for beginners.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I helped develope some of the first loads for 5.7x28 when dies became available.
It's definitely unforgiving and not for beginners.

unforgiving is a true statement. I enjoy loading 9mm, .223, 45/70, 7mm

I get nervous with 5.7 - they are tiny, and leave little room for error. It takes me 3-4 times longer to load these little buggers

 

[twarr1]

Like this?
The bulge probably happened during bullet seating. The cases are scrap. They were already scrap before they were loaded, just didn’t know it. When most bottleneck cases stretch, they thin near the base. 5.7 thins just below the neck.
I reload them regularly, but I scrap a lot of cases.

 

[Blue68f100]

Just below the shoulder

That's probably a thin area. I would chamfer the inside edge (mouth) to accept the bullet to help it start. If you can anneal, anneal the neck. Keep the heat as much as possiable away from the shoulder. This should soften it up so it will seat without buckling the brass below the shoulder.

May want to check to see how much interface fit you have for the bullet. If more than 0.002" you my want to decrease it.

 

[WeekendReloader]

I bought one becuse it was during the Pandeme and I had $650 burning in my pocket. When are the Russian Steel core with lacquer costing 5.7 going to hit the US market ??? can wait for Tula 5.7 $5.99/20 to be back on Walmart shelves

You may be waiting a long time.

 

[RadBear]

I can salvage the bullets and propellent, but is there a safe way to reclaim the primers?

I'm thinking for future batches after case prep I'll seat a bullet to check if it squishes so I don't waste as much time and effort on scrap in the making.

 

[RadBear]

is it wrong that I think that’s too expensive!

handloaders are so cheap

We're not cheap. We're cost conscious or fiscally aware. Cheap is thinking food is a ripoff because you only use it once.

 

[WeekendReloader]

I can salvage the bullets and propellent, but is there a safe way to reclaim the primers?

I'm thinking for future batches after case prep I'll seat a bullet to check if it squishes so I don't waste as much time and effort on scrap in the making.

LEE universal decaping die. OR, use your decaping pin in a drill press and push them out (don't turn the drill on, just use it as a press). Go slow and they should come out fine.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I can salvage the bullets and propellent, but is there a safe way to reclaim the primers?

I'm thinking for future batches after case prep I'll seat a bullet to check if it squishes so I don't waste as much time and effort on scrap in the making.

lower the de cap pin as low as possible and slowly press it out. I do it all the time.

eyes and ears on, and don’t have powder floating around

 

[Carl N. Brown]

5.7 at Walmart? They dropt selling handgun or "assault rifle" ammo a long time ago.

If you are really lucky, they will continue to stock ammo for the sporting rifles and shotguns they have on inventory in the sporting goods dept.


I did buy a lot of .45 ACP and 7.62x39 for the military matches and Remington .303 Brit 180gr CoreLokt at Walmart, but back in the day I was kinda surprised that Sears, Montgomery Wards, JC Penneys carried ammo for guns that were not part of their sporting goods inventory.

 

[twarr1]

I salvage primers all the time. Keep in mind when primers are new the anvil isn’t set. When you seat them the anvil ‘sets’ into the priming compound, priming the primer so to speak. I’ve heard it’s possible to ruin one if the anvil moves again and breaks up the compound leaving none between the bottom of the primer cup and the anvil. But I’ve never had one go off on removal nor had a salvaged primer fail to fire. I consider it a routine reloading task. Remember the eye and ear protection!
Edit: Since 30-06 is the largest cartridge I load and everything else is smaller, I use the -06 sizing die with the decapping pin adjusted as far down as possible.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I salvage primers all the time. Keep in mind when primers are new the anvil isn’t set. When you seat them the anvil ‘sets’ into the priming compound, priming the primer so to speak. I’ve heard it’s possible to ruin one if the anvil moves again and breaks up the compound leaving none between the bottom of the primer cup and the anvil. But I’ve never had one go off on removal nor had a salvaged primer fail to fire. I consider it a routine reloading task. Remember the eye and ear protection!
Edit: Since 30-06 is the largest cartridge I load and everything else is smaller, I use the -06 sizing die with the decapping pin adjusted as far down as possible.

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