Am i doing this right?

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BowerR64

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Pounded a .454 round ball muzzle first threw the barrel of this new Remington i got last sunday (10-27-2013) from the last gunshow.

Ive put about 50 rounds threw it now.

Am i missing a step? or doing it the wrong way maybe?

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Rogers and spencer

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I Use a micrometer, not a caliper for measuring round surfaces.
 
I guess that I need a better explanation of your question. Are you trying to determine the bore diameter of the barrel? What caliber is the gun? Are you using a patch? (obviously not on the balls you pounded through) What is your intent for the use of the information you seek? This group is very helpful but the question should be a little clearer.
 
Well then i guess i did it wrong.

Sorry

Ill go study some more.:banghead:
 
You did right when pounding the ball through. I wasn't aware that calipers wouldn't work, though I know its quite difficult if the grooves/lands are an uneven number.
 
I never really put alot of thought into this to be honest. When i clean my guns i scrub the barrel alot, i run many patches threw it and a few times with patches wrapped around a brush but the cylinder i always just cleaned the surface and never really scrubed it as well as the barrel.

My thinking was some fouling left was good to make the ball fit tight i never really thought about keeping it open as large as it could be.

Ill start scrubbing the chambers better from now on and see if that helps.

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Im sure you guys wont approve of this.

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I started with 150 grain, then 600 then 1500
 

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I used that method on 41 cal Ruger Blackhawks. Opened everything to .411.
they shot with great goodness.

Wouldn't spend the time on a Remington C & B
 
Why did you do it to a cartridge gun? Does this help a cartridge gun as well?
 
All revolvers will benefit from having the chambers larger than bore diameter. Bullets need to engrave the rifling fully for best accuracy and having undersized chambers relies solely on the pressure to flare the bullet to make that engraving. A oversized bullet will swage to bore diameter in the forcing cone of the barrel.

d-a
 
Im going to test it today on the 3 i did it to. I didnt mess with the Rogers and Spencer yet that gun just upsets me.

I loaded 2 of them with a RB and a wad, the Shooter with a conical over a wad.

Then ill load each one again with just a ball no wad and see if anything helped. all 3 with Goex 3F
 
Does this help all guns?

I have a .22LR pistol that shoots really bad and i wonder if it might have this problem?
 
BowerR64,
On that .22: make sure the bore isn't leaded up. Sometimes a good brushing will restore the accuracy. Also check to see that the chambers line up with the barrel perfectly. Reaming the forcing cone can help if the chambers don't exactly line up. As you suspect, if the cylinder mouths are smaller than the ore diameter it isn't gonna shoot either.
 
BowerR64,
On that .22: make sure the bore isn't leaded up. Sometimes a good brushing will restore the accuracy. Also check to see that the chambers line up with the barrel perfectly. Reaming the forcing cone can help if the chambers don't exactly line up. As you suspect, if the cylinder mouths are smaller than the ore diameter it isn't gonna shoot either.
Its a sig mosquito and its never been accurate from day 1

SigMosquitometaltrigger_zpsff184bd3.jpg

I did notice it had a bad crown right out of the box fixing that helped a little.
Sigmosquitocloseup2_zps55eac10f.jpg

Now i wonder if it doesnt have this issue as well.
 
Only revolvers. The semi auto has the chamber cut into the barrel.

Your crown doesn't look like it's fixed in the picture. A good polishing of it will help. Brownells sells a polishing kit I believe.

d-a
 
Only revolvers. The semi auto has the chamber cut into the barrel.

Your crown doesn't look like it's fixed in the picture. A good polishing of it will help. Brownells sells a polishing kit I believe.

d-a
Ill look at it again i think i put more time into it after that image but look at the big chuck that was taken out of the crown on the first image. The bottom one cleaned up that big chunk I dont care what the rest of the barrel looks like the crown edge is what i wanted to clean up. Those chatter marks im not so worried about.
 
The blast pattern looks more uniform after cleaning it up though.

Blastpicture_zps1015590c.jpg

That tells the bullet is leaving straight right?
 
Hard to tell if the crown is concentric from powder residue on the muzzle. Heeled bullets would add to the difficulty as well.

Did your POI change? Or just group size?

d-a
 
Hard to tell if the crown is concentric from powder residue on the muzzle. Heeled bullets would add to the difficulty as well.

Did your POI change? Or just group size?

d-a

I never really got any grouping mostly just peppered the target. The peppering area just got smaller after the work.

Just a reminder that this isn't the proper forum to discuss them new-fangled firearms.:scrutiny:

I didnt want to stay on this firearm just qurious if it helps all forearms not just black powder.
 
I think cleaning the chambers helped a little. They feel more accurate now but this is only the first time out with them.

I tried all 3 with wads and i notice my new brass trigger remington shoots fine with wads as it does without wich i find weird. The other 2 dont seem to work as well with the wads for some reason.

all 3 27 grains of 3F Goex, first target (left) is with wads, the second target no wads. New brass frame i shot first, then the old brass frame last i shot the shooter model both times with conical bullets.

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This is what i thought slugging the barrel was.

Pushing lead back and forth threw teh barrel with a polishing compound on it that polishes the lands and grooves.

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Might get a little better with a .457 or .490 ball instead.

My 2012 vintage 8" Pietta NMA has .448-.449 grooves and .447-.448 chambers. Same year with 5.5" barrel has only six lands and grooves and runs .4515 grooves with .448 chambers.
 
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