Any Glock Armoror's Here?

[Sulaco]

I picked up an Austrian made 3rd generation Glock 32 recently (new) and took it to the range. It ran 100% but I noticed an odd recoil "sensation" I hadn't experienced with previous Glocks, including others chambered for 357SIG. It almost felt as though the recoil was making the slide sort of stutter, or recoil twice? I know that sounds crazy but stay with me here.

Once I got it home and cleaned it up (I completely detail-stripped it and cleaned it), I noticed that if I cock it, pull the trigger and keep it depressed, when I rack the slide again, it does not return fully to battery until I let the trigger reset. The slide hangs off the frame about a half-inch or so. But once I let the trigger creep forward to the reset, it locks fully in battery. I know when I was shooting it, I was holding the trigger depressed until I was ready to fire again, finding reset and squeezing to fire again. So I'm sure that's what I was feeling at the range.

It's almost as if something is dragging or sliding. I don't know much about the function aspect of the Glock, I know it's striker-fired and a locked breech design, but I can't seem to wrap my mind around what's happening.

Any thoughts or ideas on how to diagnose this gun?

Again, 100% reliable but something is definitely off.

Any help is much appreciated.

 

[n6yga]

I could be wrong but, I think if the slide were allowed to go back into battery with the trigger pulled would cause the gun to continue to fire, no? I think the slide can only return to battery after the trigger has reset. I will have to check our two glocks and see what happens...


Mark.

 

[L-2]

1. Double-check to ensure the SLIDE LOCK is installed correctly, not backwards. The notch should be toward the rear.

2. Some recoil spring assemblies (RSAs) occasionally need to be broken in with shooting/cycling. Some folks just get another new RSA. Glock has that RSA test, but I've had several Glocks which don't pass it when new; pass after shooting X number of rounds; then later really fail once past Glock's recommended limit. On a Gen3 G32, Glock would recommend 3,000 rounds. Glock would probably send you a new RSA if you described your problem to them.

3. The Glock 32 also seems to cycle fast. Occasionally, I'll feel the slide outrun the magazine on my G31 (I don't have a G32, but do have a G19 & G23). I've also felt this on my G21SF. Anyway, sometimes there's some friction going on in the mags and you might also be feeling that.
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N6YGA, yes, safely check your Glocks. The gun won't continue to fire unless it was a fully auto firearm.

 

[g.willikers]

Maybe the trigger bar could be hanging up on the striker safety plunger.
The plunger, spring and the hole for it in the slide could be gummed up and catching the trigger bar.

 

[AK103K]

I notice some of my Glocks do that when I dry fire. Seem to notice it the most with my 42s.

They arent out of battery much, maybe an 1/8" - 1/4" or so. A slight relaxing of the trigger finger and they go forward.

It seems to happen only when I move the slide rearward just enough to reset the trigger too. If the slide is back a little further, and let go, its fine. I use snap caps, so I dont move it that far, or else I have to fiddle with the snap cap popping out.

Its never been an issue with live ammo.

 

[Sulaco]

This is the same thing only it does it even when I let the slide slam shut from all the way back. I called Glock and they said I can have an armorer order a new trigger bar. Now to find one.

 

[VA27]

Time to replace the recoil spring.

The test is: Remove the magazine and insure the firearm is unloaded. Hold the pistol vertically (muzzle up) and pull the trigger. While keeping the trigger depressed, retract the slide and ease it forward until it stops. If it goes into battery all is well.

If it stops short of battery, keep the trigger depressed and rotate the pistol to the horizontal. If it goes into battery the recoil spring is borderline.

If it doesn't go into battery until you release the trigger, it's time to replace the recoil spring.

 

[LeonCarr]

+1 on the Recoil Spring Assembly.

The .357 Sig cartridge is very hard on guns especially the compacts due to being a high pressure cartridge which means a fast reciprocating slide. The Recoil Spring Assembly needs to be changed more often in the .357 Sig models. I would do it every 2000-3000 rounds.

The fancy name for the trigger bar is "Trigger with Trigger Bar". Also, if the tab on the Trigger with Trigger Bar that engages the Striker Safety Plunger is dragging on the Striker Safety Plunger, the famous Glock 25 Cent Trigger Job helps tremendously. Remember you are polishing, not removing metal.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

 

[Onmilo]

+1 on the Recoil Spring Assembly.

The .357 Sig cartridge is very hard on guns especially the compacts due to being a high pressure cartridge which means a fast reciprocating slide. The Recoil Spring Assembly needs to be changed more often in the .357 Sig models. I would do it every 2000-3000 rounds.

The fancy name for the trigger bar is "Trigger with Trigger Bar". Also, if the tab on the Trigger with Trigger Bar that engages the Striker Safety Plunger is dragging on the Striker Safety Plunger, the famous Glock 25 Cent Trigger Job helps tremendously. Remember you are polishing, not removing metal.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

+2
G32 uses the exact same OEM recoil spring assembly as the G19 and G23 and tends to cycle stress much faster in the fast cycling .357 Sig guns.
You may try a stainless recoil spring guide, captive or non captive, and a chrome silicone spring for improved assembly life.

 

[Sulaco]

Thanks for the info.

Glock is sending me a replacement RSA. Though that being the issue would be odd because not counting the one time the factory shot it, It's had exactly 150 rounds down range since I bought it 3 weeks ago. It was made in December. That means it has sat for all of 2 weeks before I bought it. It seems unlikely the factory RSA would be worn out by now.

I'm thinking it needs some smoothing out. I'll just keep cycling the slide and dry-firing it and maybe polish up the contact surfaces a bit.

I talked to a local armorer and he said if I bring it in he can order the trigger bar and swap it out so we'll see where I get first.

Thanks again for the info.

Also, anyone know where I can get a smooth-faced trigger for the compact Glock? I despise the serrated trigger. I know why it's done, but I don't want to leave it in.

 

[[email protected]]

I always considered glocks to be the exception to the rule that they must be cleaned and lubed before their first outing. I had two fellow officers approach me last year having problems with light strikes with their newly purchased G27s. In both cases the slides were not returning completly into battery.They locked up just enough that the striker would hitting the primer, but the hit was low on the primer. Both were detailed cleaned and lubed really good. No further problems to date.
So I beg to ask if you have cleaned and lubed the gun? You can learn how to detail strip the gun with youtube videos.
Can you push the slide into battery by hand after it hangs up without letting off the trigger? It sounds like you may be on the right track with the trigger bar. Have you noticed and binding with the safety plunger in the slide. It should push in easly from the bottom with the slide off the frame. There is a notch on the trigger bar that pushes the plunger into the slide as the trigger travels rearward. If your holding the trigger back as the slide travels forward, then this notch will be in the rear most position. As the slide continues forward the safety plunger must go over this notch. So if it is catching when you let off the trigger the notch moves forward allowing the slide to continue forward.
My thoughts to trouble shoot would be to remove the safety plunger and cycle by hand, do not fire. If it still hangs up then there is other problems. Without the gun in hand it all is a guess at best.
You can get the parts from Midway USA or brownells faster than an armor can get them. Once again youtube is your friend on how to change parts. Parts are drop in like legos. I'm like you and my gen3 G27 sports a G22 triger bar.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

1. Double-check to ensure the SLIDE LOCK is installed correctly, not backwards. The notch should be toward the rear.

Check your slide lock x2

That and take the recoil spring assembly out and hand test it for hangups.

Edit...missed your post on the RSA.

 

[Onmilo]

Not having the actual number of rounds fired in original post and now learning that 150 rounds are all that have gone through the gun I am inclined to agree with your local armorer that the hang up involves the trigger bar and firing pin safety interface.

 

[Sulaco]

It was the firing pin safety spring. It has a mild kink in it. I'm not beyond the possibility that I may have done it when re-installing, but seeing as how it was doing this out of the box, I think it came this way.

So about two-thirds of the way up the spring body, it has a slight kink which pushes the last third of the spring off to the side at about a 17-20 degree or so angle. Very slight, but if inserted with that part sticking up in to the slide, it's causing the issue. If I switch it around with that part facing inside the body of the firing pin safety, no issues.

So I'm ordering a replacement.

Thanks for all of the great info!!!