Best Powder for 9mm?

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Most steel plate comp ( like Steel Challenge, etc) requires bullet speeds less than SD loads to prevent frequent plate replacements.

Speeds (1200'/sec+) that open up your 115gr JHP SD bullets are NOT optimum for most steel plate shooting/comp.

Start with the 231/HP38 with the advantages rfwobbly listed above.
Cost: $17 worth of powder will load over 1000 rds to try it out (and learn to reload)
Local Powder Availablity
Wide load range / SAFE for a new reloader (1140-1150'/sec will run smoothly for steel)
Readily available Load data for many bullet types & weights
Easy metering ball powder
Clean burning when loaded above the lightest loads
Not positional
Not very temp sensitive
 
I use Green Dot & Bullseye for 9mm.

Lately I've been messing around with slower W231 for 147gr thumpers.

The Green Dot is roughly twice the bulk/gr so it's good if you're concerned about double charges.


So, between Unique, Power Pistol, and Winchester 231.....pro/cons?
Click to expand...

For me it would probably boil down to what my local stores carried on a regular basis and availability of load data.
 
So, between Unique, Power Pistol, and Winchester 231.....pro/cons?
Click to expand...

That's a bit like asking which of yours sons is your favorite. Buy a can of each and compare for yourself. You'll own them all sooner or later anyway.
 
I like bullseye so much I buy it in 8lb jugs now.

I use wsf,wst, blue dot and bullseye for 9mm.

blue dot for carbine loads.. If you have a carbine and a chrono its alot of fun to work up 90gr loads pushing over 2000fps.

WSF does a good job getting me power factor in uspsa(bullseye isn't the best above 4.3gr IMO.
 
OK, I apologize for all of the questions. I would like to understand the physics a little better. What does it mean when you say "slower powder that takes more powder to produce higher velocity with less pressure"?.......Slower Powder? taking more powder to produce higher velocity" Less Pressure" How does that translate into say "recoil"? "Case Life"? "Accuracy"? I did decide to go with fmj instead of jhp, still with 115gn, but, with that, could someone explain to me the physics of the lighter vs heavier bullets and how that affects the same questions I previously asked. recoil, case life, accuracy?

Thanks again and again, sorry for all the questions.
 
Recoil is the reaction to the bullet's movement. How the powder burns (fast or slow) and how much powder there is to burn affects how the bullet reacts and gets going. Does it take off like a rocket, or roll along down the barrel? In other words, is it a good hit on a fast ball or a bunt? Same ball, same bat, completely different feel for the batter.

"Fast" and "slow" powder speeds are of course relative to the caliber. A powder that's "slow" to a 9mm may be "fast" in a 44. And of course, are only separated by micro-seconds, maybe less.

Powder%252520Speed.jpg

Additionally, faster powders tend to be more abrupt or "spiky", while slower powders tend to develop the same energy at lower pressures. They do this by burning longer at lower pressures. In the cartoon above, the areas under the curve (total energy) is roughly equivalent, but as you can see the slower powders do the same work with lower (safer) pressures. The effect is that they "push" the bullet rather than "strike" the bullet.

It's the sudden spike in pressure that makes the faster powder so dangerous in novice hands. You'll notice from your load books that "faster" powders typically have a narrower "window" for safe operation. So that not only are the pressures higher, but the margins for error smaller. This is turn may call for a better grade of equipment and/or a more refined reloading procedure so that the weight of powder being dispensed can be more closely guarded.

That's why I'm suggesting a mid-range powder. You'll want something roughly in the speed range between Win231 and Win WSF. It just happens that Win 231 (aka HP-38) also meters well and uses about 15% less powder by weight to get the job done. So it's also economical.

Hope this helps! ;)


PS. THIS PAGE should be printed and put with your reloading info.
 
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MrWesson I like bullseye so much I buy it in 8lb jugs now.

I use wsf,wst, blue dot and bullseye for 9mm.

blue dot for carbine loads.. If you have a carbine and a chrono(( its alot of fun to work up 90gr loads pushing over 2000fps.))

WSF does a good job getting me power factor in uspsa(bullseye isn't the best above 4.3gr IMO.

"90grs" sho' enuff?:eek:
 
True Blue or Unique in 9x19.

I have no problems with flake powders' metering in a Uniflow or Redding 10-X.
 
Vihtavuori N-320 is, by far, my favorite 9mm powder, in a "you can only have one powder" sort of way.
 
Vihtavuori N-320 is, by far, my favorite 9mm powder, in a "you can only have one powder" sort of way.
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Hands down my favorite for light 124gr 9mm comp loads, 130-132PF.
Expensive compared to the powders aforementioned, but not that much more per round at 132PF. 3.9 - 4.2 grs depending on the 124 gr jacketed bullet weight and shape. One pound loads 1794 rds for Zero 125gr jhp's at 132PF - 1055'/sec in my CZ
 
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Trying to develop a load for Missouri 125 SWC lead. Loading data for Unique says starting weight of 5.3 and a max weight of 5.5. Tried 5.4 and experienced "keyholing" or "tumbling." Tried 5.3, same or slightly worse.

Since it is a lead bullet, could too much crimp be the problem? I can try max. 5.5, but that really fills the case.

Suggestions?
 
aa #7 for me from 115 to 147g. Clean, consistent, very little flash. Great case fill. #2 would be Power Pistol.
 
This is an old thread but as long as you asked ,there is a couple things.First did you slug your barrel to know if your bullets are not too small? Quite a few barrel run several thou. big so a stanard sized bullet would be to small,which could cause tumbling(not stabilized). Another would be,are you sure it is keyholing and not just ripping the paper target? thin paper can rip and look like a tumbling bullet.Try paper plates or cardboard.
 
Tumbling issue

Thanks for the reply. For this issue, These results have occured in two different pistols. Sig Sauer 226 X-5 and an S&W 59. Definately keyholing as the paper targets are mounted to corregated. Actually punched out a pretty clean outline profile of the bullet.

As a side question, since this was my first post, how do I find more current threads?
 
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Ease up on the crimp. Alls you need is to remove the bell and straighten the case walls. Retest. You should be GTG. That much Unique generates plenty of velocity to stabilize the bullet.
 
Unless your crimp is so tight that the bullet is being swaged down,the crimp won't cause a tumbling bullet. Do you have some pics of thes rounds?
 
I have settled on power pistol for lead and jacketed in fullsize guns. AA#2 for compact. I read somewhere in this forum that fast burning powders are needed for compacts, makes sense to me.
 
Bullseye and HS-6 have worked very well for me with 115-124gr JHPs. Win231 gives better results with lead bullets (which in my CZ-75 have to seated short).

After reading good reviews, I recently loaded some JHPs with AutoComp. It metered well, but I have not taken any of these to the range yet.
 
Today I tried power pistol, unique, and 231. I liked the 231 load and it was pleasant to shoot. The power pistol load was accurate and snappy at 5.5 grains with a 124gn fmj, oh and did I mention the flash! Five grains of unique was the load I will play with mostly because I have a fresh 4lb can on the bench.
 
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