iostorm
Member
J-Frame!
Cheap and Reliabe Center Console Gun
- Thread starter JaxNovice
- Start date
- Status
madmattmd
Member
I’ll also chime in with a S&W Sigma recommendation. My .40VE is very reliable. Even after dry-firing the living daylights out of the thing and the trigger has smoothed out, you won’t have to worry about an accidental discharge. The 12,000 lb trigger would absolve you of any legal liability. 
Look around, you should be able to find one for less than $300 and then check out S&W for any rebates/feebies (like magazines). Nice that you get the S&W life-time warranty too.
Matt
Look around, you should be able to find one for less than $300 and then check out S&W for any rebates/feebies (like magazines). Nice that you get the S&W life-time warranty too.
Matt
Buttermilk
Member
Check the newest catalog from CDNN for some great deals on this type of pistol!! Just got mine yesterday and pulling my hair out(LOL) trying to figure out what I want!!
Breakdaddy
Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2007
- Messages
- 103
The CDNN Ruger deal sounds like a good one. Those are reliable pistols and inexpensive. They are a bit too large and unwieldy for CCW in my opinion, but perfect for your stated purpose as a console firearm.
rocinante
Member
I have a bersa 380 cc and it doesn't jam on either white box or hollow points. Went bang every time. The only "problem" was when my son or my mother in law shot it it did not always lock open on the last round. I probably fired 10 magazines through it and it never happened to me. Maybe they were limp wristing or making contact with the slide.
Not a gun I would put thousands of rounds through but I trust it enough to be my glove box gun. It fits. I can have a pistol in my center console in my state but without a lock it is not a location I would feel comfortable being there full time. Too easy to steal especially since I drive a ragtop.
Not a gun I would put thousands of rounds through but I trust it enough to be my glove box gun. It fits. I can have a pistol in my center console in my state but without a lock it is not a location I would feel comfortable being there full time. Too easy to steal especially since I drive a ragtop.
weisse52
Member
For the reasons you state:
Glock, you can pick up Police trade-in pretty cheap and even if they are ugly, they go bang each time.
Or at least for me they have
If it is stolen, no crying.
I will agree with a previous post, not sure that leaving a gun locked in most consoles is really safe. do not want someone breaking into my car to get my gun to use on me when I return. Or, just puts another one on the street for some ...person... to use.
Glock, you can pick up Police trade-in pretty cheap and even if they are ugly, they go bang each time.
Or at least for me they have
If it is stolen, no crying.
I will agree with a previous post, not sure that leaving a gun locked in most consoles is really safe. do not want someone breaking into my car to get my gun to use on me when I return. Or, just puts another one on the street for some ...person... to use.
skinewmexico
Member
I got a Star BM for $139. Only problem is, it shoots so well, I'd cry if it got stolen.......
I'm not a big fan of the Sigmas,but I'll have to concur that for the purpose you describe it would probably suit the purpose well,especially with all the rebates and things that S&W has going on now. They are not really expensive guns to begin with and the "deals" make it an even better choice.
I have a friend who likes to go to the range with me often.He has a .40 Sigma,green frame and stainlss slide.I've shot it quite a bit at his insistance and it has been a very reliable pistol so far. Triggers a little heavy for my tastes but I can make it work for me. It's actually a pretty good feeling gun in the hand too. My dealer buys in bulk as he works the gun shows and he has had deals on them for $249 many times in either 9mm or .40. Would be worth checking into,IMO.
I have a friend who likes to go to the range with me often.He has a .40 Sigma,green frame and stainlss slide.I've shot it quite a bit at his insistance and it has been a very reliable pistol so far. Triggers a little heavy for my tastes but I can make it work for me. It's actually a pretty good feeling gun in the hand too. My dealer buys in bulk as he works the gun shows and he has had deals on them for $249 many times in either 9mm or .40. Would be worth checking into,IMO.
weisse52
Member
Well,
This site has everything you ever wanted to know about Glocks.
http://www.glockfaq.com/siteindex.htm
Buying A Used Glock
Unlike many other firearms, I don't worry too much about buying a used Glock. Heck, I've even bought used parts at various times, from different sources and later pieced together a complete pistol as good as new. Many used Glocks appear to have been shot very little and don't even have holster wear. Even the ones that are known to have been holstered hundreds of times and have sent thousands of rounds downrange are usually none for the worse. I recently bought a used upper from a state police trade-in. It was perfectly functional but had some holster wear on the usual places. So I had it refinished -- for vanity reasons only (Mark Graham at Arizona Response Systems (http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com) did a fine job of it -- looks better than new). Anything else, I can take care of myself.
Here are some tips when buying a used Glock:
* With the owner's permission, make sure the pistol is unloaded and then field strip the pistol. First, remove the magazine and MAKE SURE the pistol doesn't have a round chambered. Point the unloaded pistol in a safe direction and pull the trigger. Next field strip the pistol. If you don't know how to field strip a Glock pistol, read this: http://www.topglock.com/info/fieldstrip.htm
* Check the frame "dust cover" (the part forward of the trigger guard). Flex it a little up, down, left, right carefully looking for small cracks. There have been some complaints about small cracks on the G29 and G30 models running from the serial number plate to the end of the dust cover (although some of these seem to be misidentified mould marks). Cracks generally don't interfere with functioning, but should be replaced. A replaced slide or frame would not have a matching serial number. This may weigh heavily on whether or not you are willing to purchase this pistol, regardless of price.
* Inspect the frame internal parts (trigger assembly, connector, locking block, etc.). Some early pistols need to be upgraded -- the metal internal components of which typically have a black finish as opposed to the current silver finish. Look under the slide at the bottom of the firing pin lug and firing pin safety; look at the trigger bar inside the frame. If these parts are black in color, the pistol needs an upgrade kit. If the parts are dull or shiny silver, it should be fine. Another way to tell if the pistol was made before the update is that the frame serial number plate will be black as opposed to silver, which is the current configuration. If you buy a pistol that needs upgrading, you can take it to a Glock armorer or send it to the Glock Warranty Department where they will perform all the necessary upgrades at no charge.
See the following links for upgrade info:
http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-gupgrade.html
http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade1.html
http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade2.html
* Inspect the slide. Look for any obvious problems. Guide to parts: http://www.topglock.com/info/partgraphic.htm
* Look at the ejection port of the slide and check for cracks, especially in the area around the serial number (the thinnest part of the ejection port). Check the breech face for cracks, chips or scarring.
* Look at the extractor. Ensure that it is not cracked or have a chip broken off. Same for the ejector.
* Turn the slide over and look at the bottom. There may be two divots opposite each other on the slide rails (especially on the .40 models) -- located about even with the forward edge of the ejection port. This is called "peening" or "finning" (as Glock terms it). The locking block contacts the underside of the slide during recoil and the polymer frame flexes, causing the divoting. While unsettling, this is completely normal and eventually stops. If these peened spots are just shiny -- no problem. If the pistol has been fired a lot then they maybe indented slightly -- again no problem. If they are finned over and have a sharp edge, possibly interfering with movement of the barrel, then a Glock armorer may need to file off the fins with a diamond equaling file. However, I have never heard of a Glock with finning so bad that the slide had to be replaced. Unless it's interfering with the functioning of the pistol, don't worry about it -- Glock considers it SOP.
* Check to make sure that the recoil spring receptacle or "tab" on the front of the slide (the hole that the recoil spring guide goes through when you cycle the slide) is in direct line with the rest of the front of the slide. If it is bent back, then someone probably dropped it nose-first on a hard surface. This can cause malfunctions.
* Inspect the barrel for any anomalies. Check for a "ringed" barrel -- that is where a "squib" load has lodged a bullet in the barrel and then another non-squib bullet is fired behind the obstruction causing a "ring" inside the barrel. Hold the barrel up to the light and check the rifling -- should be a smooth, six-sided helix (eight-sided profile for .45 models) from the chamber all the way to the muzzle, without interruption. If the pistol hasn't been fired much, you may see some Tenifer (the metal treatment used by Glock) that has become brittled inside the barrel. This looks like pitting, but will completely disappear in time and is nothing to worry about. Glock considers this normal when it occurs.
* Also check the recoil spring. Ensure that the pistol is unloaded. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Point the muzzle at the ceiling, pull the slide to the rear and slowly ride it forward. The spring should close the slide completely. If it hangs up out of battery, the spring may need to be replaced. Also look at the rear of the recoil spring guide for cracks or chips.
Personally, if the slide or frame is cracked, I'd pass on a pistol unless I can get a steal. Then you can have Glock replace the cracked part -- usually for nothing if there is no evidence of abuse. Everything else is easy and cheap to fix, but gives you room to negotiate the price with the seller. I haven't seen too many used Glocks that I wouldn't make some kind of offer for -- because they go on and on and on
This site has everything you ever wanted to know about Glocks.
http://www.glockfaq.com/siteindex.htm
Buying A Used Glock
Unlike many other firearms, I don't worry too much about buying a used Glock. Heck, I've even bought used parts at various times, from different sources and later pieced together a complete pistol as good as new. Many used Glocks appear to have been shot very little and don't even have holster wear. Even the ones that are known to have been holstered hundreds of times and have sent thousands of rounds downrange are usually none for the worse. I recently bought a used upper from a state police trade-in. It was perfectly functional but had some holster wear on the usual places. So I had it refinished -- for vanity reasons only (Mark Graham at Arizona Response Systems (http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com) did a fine job of it -- looks better than new). Anything else, I can take care of myself.
Here are some tips when buying a used Glock:
* With the owner's permission, make sure the pistol is unloaded and then field strip the pistol. First, remove the magazine and MAKE SURE the pistol doesn't have a round chambered. Point the unloaded pistol in a safe direction and pull the trigger. Next field strip the pistol. If you don't know how to field strip a Glock pistol, read this: http://www.topglock.com/info/fieldstrip.htm
* Check the frame "dust cover" (the part forward of the trigger guard). Flex it a little up, down, left, right carefully looking for small cracks. There have been some complaints about small cracks on the G29 and G30 models running from the serial number plate to the end of the dust cover (although some of these seem to be misidentified mould marks). Cracks generally don't interfere with functioning, but should be replaced. A replaced slide or frame would not have a matching serial number. This may weigh heavily on whether or not you are willing to purchase this pistol, regardless of price.
* Inspect the frame internal parts (trigger assembly, connector, locking block, etc.). Some early pistols need to be upgraded -- the metal internal components of which typically have a black finish as opposed to the current silver finish. Look under the slide at the bottom of the firing pin lug and firing pin safety; look at the trigger bar inside the frame. If these parts are black in color, the pistol needs an upgrade kit. If the parts are dull or shiny silver, it should be fine. Another way to tell if the pistol was made before the update is that the frame serial number plate will be black as opposed to silver, which is the current configuration. If you buy a pistol that needs upgrading, you can take it to a Glock armorer or send it to the Glock Warranty Department where they will perform all the necessary upgrades at no charge.
See the following links for upgrade info:
http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-gupgrade.html
http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade1.html
http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade2.html
* Inspect the slide. Look for any obvious problems. Guide to parts: http://www.topglock.com/info/partgraphic.htm
* Look at the ejection port of the slide and check for cracks, especially in the area around the serial number (the thinnest part of the ejection port). Check the breech face for cracks, chips or scarring.
* Look at the extractor. Ensure that it is not cracked or have a chip broken off. Same for the ejector.
* Turn the slide over and look at the bottom. There may be two divots opposite each other on the slide rails (especially on the .40 models) -- located about even with the forward edge of the ejection port. This is called "peening" or "finning" (as Glock terms it). The locking block contacts the underside of the slide during recoil and the polymer frame flexes, causing the divoting. While unsettling, this is completely normal and eventually stops. If these peened spots are just shiny -- no problem. If the pistol has been fired a lot then they maybe indented slightly -- again no problem. If they are finned over and have a sharp edge, possibly interfering with movement of the barrel, then a Glock armorer may need to file off the fins with a diamond equaling file. However, I have never heard of a Glock with finning so bad that the slide had to be replaced. Unless it's interfering with the functioning of the pistol, don't worry about it -- Glock considers it SOP.
* Check to make sure that the recoil spring receptacle or "tab" on the front of the slide (the hole that the recoil spring guide goes through when you cycle the slide) is in direct line with the rest of the front of the slide. If it is bent back, then someone probably dropped it nose-first on a hard surface. This can cause malfunctions.
* Inspect the barrel for any anomalies. Check for a "ringed" barrel -- that is where a "squib" load has lodged a bullet in the barrel and then another non-squib bullet is fired behind the obstruction causing a "ring" inside the barrel. Hold the barrel up to the light and check the rifling -- should be a smooth, six-sided helix (eight-sided profile for .45 models) from the chamber all the way to the muzzle, without interruption. If the pistol hasn't been fired much, you may see some Tenifer (the metal treatment used by Glock) that has become brittled inside the barrel. This looks like pitting, but will completely disappear in time and is nothing to worry about. Glock considers this normal when it occurs.
* Also check the recoil spring. Ensure that the pistol is unloaded. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Point the muzzle at the ceiling, pull the slide to the rear and slowly ride it forward. The spring should close the slide completely. If it hangs up out of battery, the spring may need to be replaced. Also look at the rear of the recoil spring guide for cracks or chips.
Personally, if the slide or frame is cracked, I'd pass on a pistol unless I can get a steal. Then you can have Glock replace the cracked part -- usually for nothing if there is no evidence of abuse. Everything else is easy and cheap to fix, but gives you room to negotiate the price with the seller. I haven't seen too many used Glocks that I wouldn't make some kind of offer for -- because they go on and on and on
Hoffy
Member
CZ-82...got mine at AIM...great gun for the money!
redactor
Member
For $200, these can't be beat.
Tom Fury
Member
Console gun
S&W 457
small, reliable, accurate; around 450 in blue
.45
Cheers, TF
S&W 457
small, reliable, accurate; around 450 in blue
.45
Cheers, TF
Pick up a used 38, at the local gun show, you can get one that works good and looks like crap, for about a hundred bucks,sometimes you can find a cheap 357 or 9, or even a 40 or 45 revolver and keep a couple of speed loaders in the glove box. At least with an old working wheel gun, you know it's going to fire, even if you ignore maintaining it that well
steak-knife
Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2007
- Messages
- 153
And lets not forget about the Cougar
Stoeger is now making the Cougar 8000 series of pistols previously made by Beretta with a MSRP of $370.
It's an all metal gun that comes in your choice of 9mm or .40 S&W.
Stoeger is now making the Cougar 8000 series of pistols previously made by Beretta with a MSRP of $370.
It's an all metal gun that comes in your choice of 9mm or .40 S&W.
ecureed
Member
my center console gun is a Kel-Tec P11. Bought it like-new from a buddy for $225
TimM
Member
I think you should take a look at the Taurus 24/7. You can pick one up for around $300 off GunBroker - I really like mine.
BillinNH
Member
Get a Cobra Patriot 45. Quite a nice little gun, very suitable for self defense, not expensive.
Or get a Hi=Point in 40 or 45. Very inexpensive and goes bang every time you pull the trigger. Not very sophisticated but it definitely does the job and you can easily afford two of them. No crying if lost.
I prefer KelTecs for self defense but you said 40 or 45.
Bill
Or get a Hi=Point in 40 or 45. Very inexpensive and goes bang every time you pull the trigger. Not very sophisticated but it definitely does the job and you can easily afford two of them. No crying if lost.
I prefer KelTecs for self defense but you said 40 or 45.
Bill
- Status
