Chiappa Rhino 50DS

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Quick write up.
After having eyeballed these things for a few years, I managed to get my hands in one a few weeks ago.
I won't go over too many points in excruciating detail, as most people have a solid enough grasp on how this revolver is designed. - aluminum alloy frame, barrel on the bottom, hammer internal..
This revolver certainly isn't for everyone, it's weird looking, and not "typical" but that's why I like it.
I love the barrel being on the bottom, and the resulting industrial kind of look the cuts in the shroud give it.
The strange grip actually makes sense when you hold it. Without the extra angle, the trigger would be too ridiculously low and uncomfortable to manage.
A lot of people complain about the cylinder release. Sure, it's different, but it functions fine. Pulling it down with my thumb comes more naturally to me than the push button kind of style the Rugers have. (Personally)
The trigger is very wide. Very wide. But it really helps disperse the weight of the action across the pad of my finger.
Double action is really smooth, albeit clunky. The couple extra action parts can be felt, especially after shooting a polished Smith. And don't take "clunky" as seemingly awful, though. You're just more aware of the action cycling.
Single action trigger is a hunny. However, don't expect that zero-takeup, glass break off a trigger you've come to know and love from many finely tuned revolvers- the best way I can describe it would be to compare it to a Sig Sauer single action pull. It's got that kind of creep, but glassy smooth.
Cocking the gun into single action is a bear compared to literally any other revolver with a spur. The cocking lever pulls back like one would expect, but internally, is pushing a straight strut down against a groove that's kind of in the middle of the actual hammer. So you're not feeling a direct 1:1 ratio from lever to hammer, but more a 1:1.5.. resulting in extra poundage on the lever.
Decocking is simple, and works exactly like any other revolver.
Sights- awesome. Love fiber optic target sights.

Now, shooting this thing.
It is a 357magnum, it's got a good pop, but there is barely any muzzle flip. With the barrel so low, the energy goes into your hand rather than being partly mitigated in an upward motion. This helps keep you on target, but definitely punishes one's hand a bit more.
I hear a lot of guys express how they dislike that you "need to tuck your thumbs back so you don't get burnt" I get it.. have the barrel on the bottom does bring that gas much closer to your thumb, but having mostly shot larger bore revolvers, I tuck my thumbs in, naturally. It's a non issue.
And if I didn't cover it- accuracy is superb.

Is it worth the pricetag? Depends on how bad you want it.. I got mine at a pretty decent price compared to some of what I've seen. Plus, I really wanted it for my collection.
Overall finish is outstanding, the action is interesting, and the handling is great. So, to me, it was worth it.

Feel free to ask any questions, or add any input/personal experience.
 

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Been actually eyeing one of these for competition but I'd probably spring for a 40s&w for easier reloads. How many rounds do you have through yours and how is it holding up?
 
Been actually eyeing one of these for competition but I'd probably spring for a 40s&w for easier reloads. How many rounds do you have through yours and how is it holding up?
I realize this is directed at the OP, but I have an early 60DS (6 inch) White Rhino with many thousands of rounds through it including everything from full-power magnums to target .38 Special. At one point early on I stuck a bullet in the barrel and planted another behind it - amazingly no damage resulted. My only regret with my Rhino is NOT waiting to buy one (I have a bad habit of doing that). If I had waited I would have gotten a later model that was cut for moonclips. Then again I may have ended up with the 9mm model which also came later.
 
8strings8rounds,
Nice write up. Welcome :thumbup:

I got to handle a Rhino a while back. I have seen and read about them but never touched one until a few months ago. I wasn’t too crazy about the grip. It just didn’t feel right to me. The salesman said that shooting one would probably change my mind but I am not willing to purchase one to find out. :D
Hopefully I will find one to rent at a range and see.
Thank you for a nice write up of yours. You have 3 nice looking shooters there.
 
Been actually eyeing one of these for competition but I'd probably spring for a 40s&w for easier reloads. How many rounds do you have through yours and how is it holding up?
I only have 400 rounds through it, currently.. had an order of 357 go missing with UPS.. so, had to wait for a replacement shipment.
-Enough ammo through it to say I enjoy it, not enough to say whether or not it'll hold up in the long haul.
I would imagine if it were chambered in 9mm or 40cal, it would probably take thousands of rounds very easily, without issue.
 
I have a DS40, and I have about 650-700 rounds of .38spl and about 150 rounds of .357 magnum through mine without a single failure. It's a different beast to be sure, but it certainly gets a lot of attention at the range. A lot of people have seen it, and the fact that Margot Robbie as Harley Quinn in Suicide Squad carried a pair, helped build some of the mistique.

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FWIW, I see a lot of vendors refer to the standard satin finished nickel as the White Rhino. The White Rhino model was a special cerakoted version that had white finiss with black squiggles to make it look like cracked hide.

This is a White Rhino:

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I had a 40DS for a little while. I always laughed, as I called it the ugliest gun Id ever bought at the time, and actually, it really still is. But its beautiful in its own right too. :)

I bought it out of curiosity at the time, and getting a pretty good deal on it just sweetened the deal.

As strange as it might look to those used to more familiar things revolver wise, it feels very natural and comfortable in the hand and shoots well.

Other than to show a couple of people how the SA was different and how worked, I never thumb cocked mine, and only shot it DA. It had a decent DA trigger too.

The only thing you really had to watch, was that relief cut for the "gap". I shoot everything "thumbs forward", and its normally not a problem with revolvers with the barrel at the top of the cylinder. The first round I fired out of the gun got me, "just a little bit", and really got my attention. :)

The recoil impulse is noticeably different, as you dont get the muzzle rise. Shoot a couple of hundred rounds of 357 at an outing, and youll feel it a little in your shoulders the next day though.

This was shot at 10 yards, full power 158 grain 357's, DAO, and at a pretty good clip. Basically as fast as the sights came back on target.

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I liked the gun, but it was just a little "to different", and I found something else I wanted more not to long after I got it, so it got traded off.

If you can find one at a reasonable price, Id definitely give one a try. They are a pretty cool gun. Still ugly too. :D
 
I have an early (2011) 40DS. Went back for service twice. First time had badly off-center strikes and FTF. Second time it needed a new hand. I fire 38's in it but not .357's. It just seems a little "loose." Action works ok but cylinder doesn't seem as tight and "solid" as a Ruger or Smith. Novelty for sure, but not getting a lot of use.
 
I have an early (2011) 40DS. Went back for service twice. First time had badly off-center strikes and FTF. Second time it needed a new hand. I fire 38's in it but not .357's. It just seems a little "loose." Action works ok but cylinder doesn't seem as tight and "solid" as a Ruger or Smith. Novelty for sure, but not getting a lot of use.
They've changed a few things since then, at least from what I can tell. This may be the tightest locking revolver I've shot- the clocking hand stays engaged when in SA, and applies an even pressure to the cylinder in opposition to the cylinder stop. It is, at least on mine, impressively sturdy. I can see how it has a lot of room for potential failure over more common designs, however..
I did find that all the internals are MIM now, not machined/hand cut as they might have been in yours. I'm thinking this may help them produce more consistent actions.
 
The only thing you really had to watch, was that relief cut for the "gap". I shoot everything "thumbs forward", and its normally not a problem with revolvers with the barrel at the top of the cylinder. The first round I fired out of the gun got me, "just a little bit", and really got my attention.
I shoot a S&W460 semi regularly, and I want my thumbs nowhere near the front of that cylinder Haha.
I'd like to get a slowmo video of the gasses coming out of that relief cut- I imagine it like two hot little jets.
 
I shoot a S&W460 semi regularly, and I want my thumbs nowhere near the front of that cylinder Haha.
I'd like to get a slowmo video of the gasses coming out of that relief cut- I imagine it like two hot little jets.
My thumbs dont normally get up near the front of the cylinder while Im shooting, even with a quickly acquired grip.

The Chiappas are a little different with that cut, and Im not sure what the advantage there is, but it does make that distance back from the face even shorter and just seems to enhance the issue.

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I can tell you though, it will wake you right up if you mess up. :)

It just barely bit the tip of my thumb, and immediately got my attention.
 
My thumbs dont normally get up near the front of the cylinder while Im shooting, even with a quickly acquired grip.

The Chiappas are a little different with that cut, and Im not sure what the advantage there is, but it does make that distance back from the face even shorter and just seems to enhance the issue.

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I can tell you though, it will wake you right up if you mess up. :)

It just barely bit the tip of my thumb, and immediately got my attention.
Haha I bet.
It does grip in a way that feels most natural to put your thumbs forward, not sure what it is exactly. After having my 460 blow open the top of my expensive range bag, I started being extremely aware of thumb placement with my revolvers.
I had questioned the relief cut initially, but it makes sense- if those hot gasses were just hitting a hard corner on an alloy frame thousands of times, they'd probably start chewing a pretty good notch in it.
One design thing that kind of irks me, is the crane. It has that 90 degree elbow where the cylinder is mounted. I think that should have been a radius for strength, but as long as we're not slapping them open repeatedly, it'll probably be alright.
 
I will recheck mine and see if my memory serves. I haven't been feeling well enough lately to go shooting but it's on my list.
 
Well, If you think the Rhino is ugly and weird, then you should check out the Mateba guns, especially the Unica 6 Autorevolver. The Rhino got nothing on those.
 
Well, If you think the Rhino is ugly and weird, then you should check out the Mateba guns, especially the Unica 6 Autorevolver. The Rhino got nothing on those.
I've been looking for one for about 10 years. The originals fetch a ridiculous price, unfortunately.
Mateba is producing them again though, and they should be available in the US in both 357 and 44 some time this year- for about half of what the originals go for.. which is still a lot for such a usefulness, but neat design.
 
I like the looks. I've got .357s in 2 and 4 inches. One of those in 3 inches is calling me....

The bad news is that I told myself I wouldn't buy any guns this year. So far I've only bought one. The good news is, there's only 6 months to go.
 
I love my 3". Doesn't have the ridiculous (for a carry revolver) underbarrel rail of the 4"+ models, but does have real sights (unlike the snubby).
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The stock grips aren't bad, really, but the "Charging Rhino" grip that mine came with is much more comfortable. They are available from Chiappa if anyone with a different model wants to try one out.

I've heard some ridiculous claims about the recoil on these around the internet. ".357s feel like a .38, .38s feel like a .22" and goofy stuff like that. It's crap. You still know you're shooting a Magnum round. But it is a massively different feel than you might be used to. Like others have said, the push is almost straight back. The muzzle rise is negligible; follow-up shots are very fast for an alloy .357.

The D/A trigger is actually very nice. The S/A on mine is VERY light. I was surprised the first time I tried it - was not expecting it to be that light.

My first trip out with it, I fired around 120-150 rounds (had a 1-hour window at the indoor range) and wanted to keep going. Never had that happen with a lightweight .357 before.

I've been looking for one for about 10 years. The originals fetch a ridiculous price, unfortunately.
Mateba is producing them again though, and they should be available in the US in both 357 and 44 some time this year- for about half of what the originals go for.. which is still a lot for such a usefulness, but neat design.

I hope that's true, since that gun's been on my "weird crap that I badly want for no justifiable reason" list for years. From what I heard, though, their US importer (who has been making the announcements) is known for vaporware, so we'll see.

Actually, what I really want from them is a 6 Unica with a decocker, so that it could actually be carried safely. THAT would be an instant buy from me.

I like the looks. I've got .357s in 2 and 4 inches. One of those in 3 inches is calling me....

C'mon, you know you want to. All the cool kids are doing it...
 
6 o'clock barrel revolvers are the best design for a revolver ever conceived.
That's why there have been so many of them produced as service revolvers over the last 140 years.
Oh....wait. :D
 
6 o'clock barrel revolvers are the best design for a revolver ever conceived.
That's why there have been so many of them produced as service revolvers over the last 140 years.
Oh....wait. :D

Yes, clearly traditional revolvers are the better design. That's why there have been so many of them designed for the military in the last hundred years, or for law enforcement in the last 50. :D
 
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