Easiest way to set up LnL case feeder tube for 9mm?

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sbwaters

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Loading 9mm, y Hornady LnL case feeder binds rotating the next case into the drop tube and the next case binds on the side of the rotating base metal block.

I end up twisting the block to free up cases and lifting cases to have the block return. Not fun.

Suggestions setting up the distance the top feeder tube should be from the rotating block?

Suggestions for setting up the insert?

[Sorry I don’t have the official names of the pieces. The docs are downstairs and I am sitting by the fire with a bourbon.]
 
I think you are talking about the space between the feed tube and the pivot. If that is the case then you want the head of the case just below the feed tube. But remember you want the pivot adapter bushing for the 9mm.
 
After you get it adjusted get your self a wooden shim and mark it where the drop tube just touches it when it is sitting on the pivot. Then put a note on it to use the pivot adaptor and which V-block to use. This way change over will take seconds instead of minutes.
 
DRAINSMITH said:
If that is the case then you want the head of the case just below the feed tube.
Click to expand...
I believe you mean the mouth of the case.

The mouth of the case should just clear the bottom of the feed tube as the pivot block moves the case laterally. The head of the next case should catch on the top surface of the pivot block
 
Took all your suggestions and sized about 300 9MM cases this morning. Learned a lot.

First, used the caliper to measure the distance from the feed tube to the pivot block when operating best: .25 inches. I can set it in the future with that.

Second, I spritzed a little Hornady One Shot between the pivot block and the bottom plate it is attached to. It ran smoother after that.

Third, I notice that the pivot block has a slight tilt to it and the bottom of the adjustable arm that raises it is about a quarter inch behind the spot on the arm where the v-block is located. I wonder if that pivot block angle throws things off such that there are occasional case catches.
 
The base for the flipper needs to stay flat. There are many way to fix this. The actuator rod if its traveling too far it will cause it to tilt, too. I set the brass feed supply tube back as far as I can. I have found that closer distances work better than far. But the key is to have the brass tube fully support the brass to keep it from tilting and binding.
 
sbwaters said:
the bottom of the adjustable arm that raises it is about a quarter inch behind the spot on the arm where the v-block is located.
Click to expand...
I can't make heads or tails of this statement at all. :confused:

How can the bottom of the arm (which arm?) that raises it (the arm?) be behind a spot on the arm (?) on the v-block (?)

Can you either use the names from the Parts List (numbers would also help) or change to more detailed descriptions
 
Yeah a photo with a pointer would be worth a couple of words in this case.

I am going to guess he is taliking about one of the V block 398292-398297 parts, maybe the cam wire and slide?

Either that or its where the thingamajig rides on the whatchmacallit.
 
You’re right. Sorry. I was lazy. Didn’t want to go downstairs. Broke out the manual, the smartphone, and Photoshop. This might help. LnLCasePivotv2.jpg
 
O.K. go to the top of this form to "Reloading Library of Wisdom" the go to sub-post "clever things you invented" than to post #1323 I have already given everything you need to know.
 
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I took my shoes off but I still couldn't count that high. But I went back and fixed it. But did you notice the shotgun shell and you can also see a few shims.

Now I always get mad when Goofy blames the engineer Micky Mouse. But in this case, I think it was Micky. Only one bolt to hold the pivot. Realy?

Now I have 4 Ammo-plants and only 2 were affected by the cant. No rime or reason why.
 
First, thank you for the picture. It makes it much easier to understand what you were trying to say...it wasn't what I was picturing at all

Next time you have the Pivot and Pivot body apart, polish the surfaces to rub against each other. I used some polishing compound I picked up at Harbor Freight on a cotton wheel. While you're at it, you might also touch up the inclined plane that the pushrod abuts against
 
I tried to find that post. This is what I would do if I wasn't a puss and was afraid to drill into my press. This is why I like this form. We both had the problem about the same time and we both came up with a solution. Kaldor wins this one.

Oh, graphite is your friend. And the bolt for the pivot might be too tight.
 
I tucked a thin shim next to the #76 case feeder stand to hold the pivot body down where it was twisting. Added a flat washer behind the #47 hex bolt that fastens it so I could snug it up better.

9mmepiphany said:
Next time you have the Pivot and Pivot body apart, polish the surfaces
Click to expand...
Yup. The two surfaces were scored. Smoothed ’em out a bit with very fine sandpaper. Put some official Drainsmith graphite between them and adjusted the pushrod so it did not overextend and lift the pivot.

Works much better, thank you all!

BTW: Here are the scratches on the pivot body and pivot before smoothing:
LnLPivotScratchesIMG_6219.JPG
 
sbwaters said:
I tucked a thin shim next to the #76 case feeder stand to hold the pivot body down where it was twisting. Added a flat washer behind the #47 hex bolt that fastens it so I could snug it up better.


Yup. The two surfaces were scored. Smoothed ’em out a bit with very fine sandpaper. Put some official Drainsmith graphite between them and adjusted the pushrod so it did not overextend and lift the pivot.

Works much better, thank you all!

BTW: Here are the scratches on the pivot body and pivot before smoothing:
View attachment 768897
Click to expand...


So, here is a issue with the pivot block and twisting. The entire thing is made from pot metal, and its just cast and then tumbled to smooth it out. There is no tolerances in any of it. So we run into an issue with tons of tolerance stacking. I had the same issue with the block scoring, which was causing twisting on the dropper body. Sometimes a light sanding and some graphite is the ticket. However, mine would never get better, so I chose to replace my pivot block with one made from delrin.

Being that Ive already explained this all a couple times in a couple threads, Ill see if I cant find the thread with the info in it.

Here it is: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/hornady-lnl-case-feeder.821288/
 
I took a file to mine to clean both surfaces, and make them flat. Also don't over tighten the shoulder bolt. Doing so will make things tighter and cause problems like your having. It only need to be snug.
When you setup your pusher rod adj it so it only does a min required. Over travel will cause the guide bushing to come out. I stuck mine in with Permatex sealant. Has not moved in over 5 yrs now. I do have a block bolted to the square tubing to prevent mine from twisting.
 
Kaldor said:
So, here is a issue with the pivot block and twisting. The entire thing is made from pot metal, and its just cast and then tumbled to smooth it out. There is no tolerances in any of it. So we run into an issue with tons of tolerance stacking
Click to expand...
I got lucky on mine.

I had previously helped a friend set up his case feeder and he did have an issue with the Pivot Body twisting. Learning from that installation, I took a few preemptive steps:
1. Put a flat washer on the back side of the vertical support member. The washer is large enough to span the member and spreads out the pressure when the bolt is tightened.
2. Cleaned up the surfaces of the nut that goes into the recess in the Pivot Body arm to receive the bolt that attaches to the support beam
3. Cleaned off all the flash on the Pivot Body arm where it interfaced with the support beam
4. Trued the surfaces of the notch in the Pivot Body arm that contacted the support beam...I was luck that the notch was pretty true
5. Didn't over tighten the bolt when attaching the Pivot Body to the support
 
Blue68f100 said:
I took a file to mine to clean both surfaces, and make them flat. Also don't over tighten the shoulder bolt. Doing so will make things tighter and cause problems like your having. It only need to be snug.
When you setup your pusher rod adj it so it only does a min required. Over travel will cause the guide bushing to come out. I stuck mine in with Permatex sealant. Has not moved in over 5 yrs now. I do have a block bolted to the square tubing to prevent mine from twisting.
Click to expand...

9mmepiphany said:
I got lucky on mine.

I had previously helped a friend set up his case feeder and he did have an issue with the Pivot Body twisting. Learning from that installation, I took a few preemptive steps:
1. Put a flat washer on the back side of the vertical support member. The washer is large enough to span the member and spreads out the pressure when the bolt is tightened.
2. Cleaned up the surfaces of the nut that goes into the recess in the Pivot Body arm to receive the bolt that attaches to the support beam
3. Cleaned off all the flash on the Pivot Body arm where it interfaced with the support beam
4. Trued the surfaces of the notch in the Pivot Body arm that contacted the support beam...I was luck that the notch was pretty true
5. Didn't over tighten the bolt when attaching the Pivot Body to the support
Click to expand...

Heres the issue guys. You get some galling, you take a little bit off the blocks, clean them up, graphite, put them back together, it runs good for awhile, but then youre back to the same issue again. So you rinse and repeat to solve the issue. The problem with this is that it actually makes the tolerance stacking worse and pretty soon you are fixing it again. I know, I played this game for 18 months with my press, went thru 4 pivot blocks, 2 pivot bodies, 3 shoulder bolts, 3 pusher rods. I have a box that is full of junk case feeder parts. Ill put an example up
 
q3vVaQj.png

Ok so here is a down and dirty for the pivot body, pivot block, and shoulder bolt. In a perfect world, the shoulder bolt would be exactly the right length, and be perfectly square to the block and body, and the body and block will be the right size so that the shoulder can bottom out in the body, and it can turn easily. But here is the reality, and Ive seen this first hand. As you polish the block and body to remove burrs, the distance between the shoulder bold head and the pivot block increases, causing the pivot to potentially bind and gall even more. Another issue Ive seen first hand is the threads for the shoulder bolt not cut into the body squarely, which causes the block to bind. I also had a body where the stop for the shoulder was cut too low, and the bolt couldnt bottom out on the shoulder, which meant that I had to decrease the thickness of the pivot block to alow it to bottom out.

Some of you might never see these problems. I did. And I fixed this issue permanently with my delrin pivot block. That is the only way to solve this issue permanently. I know a few of the guys on this forum have run alot of cases on their LnL the same as me. Im at 70k (?) minimum now for decapping, processing and loading so my press has seen alot of work, and some of it not so nice, feeding dirty brass into it to process for decapping.

Are you listening Hornady? Stop making the pivot block from the same cheese grade pot metal as the body. Make the pivot block from plastic so that it cant gall the pot metal body. Its not a hard thing to figure out.
 
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