Few questions about the HK91 clone known as PTR-91

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> Steve, is the cheekweld decent enough to be able to use the Burris scope comfortably?

Yes, although some extra hight on the stock would be appreciated. If you look at the photos you can see that I chose the hight of the scope rings so that the rear lens would clear the iron sights. You could mount the scope lower if you were prepared to remove the iron sight drum at the rear. Personal preference... A lower set of rings would mean a better cheek weld.

The parts I used were :

Scope mount from HKparts http://www.hkparts.net/91.htm
Scroll almost to the bottom. I used the cheaper of the two mounts. I did find that I needed to put a #8 washer under the rear mount to be able to sight the scope in.

Scope and rings from Midway :
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=163948
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=461188

The markings on the drums of the scope are a bit weird, but that might be because I haven't worked out what they mean yet !:D The clicks are 1/2 inch at 100 yards. It's a very nice scope. For a little more $$$ you can get the 3-9x40. I am about to buy that for an FN FAL but am very happy with the 2-7x35.

S.
 
Steve, I'm pretty much a noob to scopes..

regarding the 2-7x35 and the 3-9x40...

first, what does 2-7 mean exactly? That it goes from 2x all the way up to 7x magnification?

At 100 yards, can you see the holes in the target with the 2-7x35? What about the 3-9x40? What about the same scopes at 200 yards?

thanks!
 
Yes, thats what it means. The other number is the size of the front lens in millimeters. Bigger lens' mean more light entering the scope, so a brighter image. Both scopes will let you see the bullet holes at 100 yards. Not so at 200 yards, but you might have better eyes than me. I have to scope everything I own because (like most people over 45ish) I have presbyopia which means I can't focus on iron sights well anymore. I need more than 10 power to see bullet holes at 200 yards, as long as there is no heat haze.

S.
 
I also noticed that Burris is a ballistic plex. So that means its calibrated for .308, right? (On Burris's site they mention its calibrated for a 168gr@2700fps .308 bullet)

Do you find that Burris's built-in BDC works well for .308 at the ranges that they advertise? (100-500 yards). How much adjustment did you need to make to your Burris to get it to zero at 100?
 
Seems to me the Bundeswehr sorted out the optics for us. Why reinvent the wheel? Get you a 4x Hensholdt. It has excellent resolution, a bullet drop compensator, and it works great on the rifle, without eye relief problems. With the inexpensive aftermarket illuminator, you can even use the scope in low light conditions.
 
The Hensholdt is a *very* good scope in terms of optics. My problem with the whole setup was that (a) I can't get a cheekweld with that claw mount - more like a jawweld and (b) I wanted more magnification than 4x.

> I also noticed that Burris is a ballistic plex. So that means its calibrated for .308, right?

Not specifically calibrated for 308. The way it works is that if you sight it in on the crosshairs at 100 yards, it will be close enough at 200 and kinda/sorta there at longer ranges. I haven't shot it at anything more than 200 yards but it works well enough when you transition from 100 to 200. It's easier than clicking the turrets.

> How much adjustment did you need to make to your Burris to get it to zero at 100?

Once I worked out that I needed to shim the G3 mount higher at the back, very little scope adjustment at all. The mechanical center of the scopes windage was almost spot on to the mechanical center of the mount/barrel. It all worked out well.

This is the scope I will buy for the FAL once I have fixed the flash hider.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=239997

I have been very impressed with the Burris glass on the G3. Much better visual quality than the Bushnell 10x40.

S.
 
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