Fighting Revolver

Styx

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Other than the cliche, "a fighting revolver is the revolver you have to defend yourself with," IYHO, what features and characteristics should a "fighting revolver" have if you were in the market for new one, and you knew you would (possibly) be in a gun fight aka might have to defend your life with one?
 
I am going to claim if anyone made a "fighting revolver" it was the British.

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The Webley is a natural pointer. It fires a .455 heavy lead bullet, but the recoil is low. If you have ever played in "combat games" with a handgun, powerful handguns have a lot of recoil and recovery is slow. The 455 Webley is powerful enough with its big soft bullet to have been a decisive mankiller, and yet not so powerful to make it difficult to get back on target. The sights the Brits put on are much thinner than what is used today, but they do align quickly. The rear sight is a very wide, shallow notch. Very easy to align at a near target. The top break design is the faster revolver mechanism to reload. Mechanically it is weak, full power 45 ACP's will stretch the top strap. But, a top break makes for an outstanding "fighting" handgun.
 
"Fighting revolvers" have been my primary interest for a couple of decades now. The most traditional version is a six shot N frame with a four or five inch barrel and fixed sights, and a cartridge which starts with a "4". This Model of 1950 Military in .44 Special is the archetype:

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Similar guns are available as "classics" or "reissues", such as these from S&W:

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The nickeled gun is an S&W Model 21 in .44 Special, and the blued gun is a Model 22 in .45 acp. Both are from the "Classic" range, and while I believe both are discontinued, they are widely available from auction sites.

While I continue to believe that they all are excellent fighting guns, they are all really big. Open carried OWB, most of us would have no trouble, but IWB as CCW guns, well, they're annoying.

And so we ended up with Jordan's take on a fighting revolver:

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I carried this Model 19 every day for decades, and I still believe it is a wonderful compromise. I trust the "4" cartridges a bit more, but the .357 has a hell of a track record. And it sure is more pleasant to carry than an N frame! I incorporated some of Bill's innovations, like rounded corners on the rear sight blade, and a DAO trigger, and I still pack it when I'm in the mood.

I got old, though, and my hips got pretty tired of packing full sized guns. My fighting revolver these days is the ridiculous 340PD:

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It sure does pack easy, but it's a serious compromise. I hope - now more than ever - to never get myself into a gunfight!

Short version, in 2023, with far more years behind me than ahead: if I was going to carry OWB, with the most effective revolver I could get, it would be an eight shot N frame in .357 Mag or .38 Super, cut for moonclips. For IWB - as a young buck who doesn't mind the weight- it would be the modern Model 66, or the 69 loaded with .44 Specials or mild .44 Magnums. And for everyone else, who wants to be at least technically armed but doesn't want to live his life around the gun, it would be the same ridiculous 340PD that I now carry every day.
 
What I carried for several years…
S&W 686 with Winchester 145gr SilverTips (low flash) in Safariland Comp III speedloaders.
(Think a spring plunger loaded moon clips).
If given a choice, I preferred the Model 66. It’s almost a pound lighter than the 686. You carry it infinitely more than you use it.
After a 12-15hr shift in 90+ degree heat driving a patrol boat/atv/pickup truck a gun belt with 12rds (2 speedloaders) ammo, hand cuffs, pepper spray, radio, cellphone, asp baton, and a 4” 686 got HEAVY!!!
 
Although I want to say for me -- in terms of looks and class -- it'd be a 4" P&R Model 19
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If concealability (and a great trigger) was a priority it'd be the 3" KC
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But in reality, the compromise would favor capacity so the 4" eight-round 627 (with the ergonomic "Goodyears" would probably be the most practical
627 Pro.jpg
 
From my civilian concealed carry point of view.

I had this 85UL for years. DAO, no hammer spur, and fixed sights supplemented with a low light sighting system.

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I currently have this 66, but I honestly think a fixed sight 65 converted to DAO with no hammer spur would be better suited for concealed carry.
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Other than the cliche, "a fighting revolver is the revolver you have to defend yourself with," IYHO, what features and characteristics should a "fighting revolver" have if you were in the market for new one, and you knew you would (possibly) be in a gun fight aka might have to defend your life with one?
I'd consider a "fighting revolver" as one you'd take to war with you, and not something only for self defense. For me, it would be a magnum caliber N frame, barrel length 4" or greater, nothing less than .357 Magnum. Possibility of a gun fight in a war zone is 100%, so go big or go home. Take your pick, with a crap ton of speed loaders to go with it
S&W N Frames.jpg
 
I've always preferred fixed sights on carry or theoretical "fighting" revolvers.
One less thing to break in extreme circumstances.
Less to hang up while drawing.
Smith mdl13/65 or my favorites GP100 and Speed Six.

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My old Speed Six looks like it's seen some fights in it's day already!

Of course an 8 shot would be good to have.

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A "fighting revolver" in the modern age is sort of a silly concept. If we are talking about a gun fight not a Civilian CCW then for the same weight a semi-auto brings alot more fight to the fight, both in capacity, ease of shooting quickly, and ease of fast reloads.

But if I new I was going to gun fight I would bring a rifle and some friends with a rifles, this assuming the indirect fired was not available.

But playing nice a good "fighting revolver" should be full size, 4-6 inch barrel, moonclip feed, and as many shots as you can reasonable stuff in there. The S&W 929 is probably going to be the best "fight revolver" you could reasonable get. 9mm is a very capable fighting cartridge and its shorter than 38/357 to facilitate reliable ejection and fast reloads. Rimless cartridges work better on moonclips than rimmed cartridges since they can use thicker more robust moonclips. The 929 is an 8-shooter and you will be hard pressed to find a revolver with higher capacity in a reasonable fighting cartridge.

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A close second is one of the 8-shot 357 Magnums but 357 Magnum on moonclips is far from optimal due to the long skinny nature of 357 Magnum. To fix that I feed my own 627 38 Short Colt. It's really more of gamer-gun but if you're going to force me to choose a "fighting revolver" from what I currently own this is what I am bringing. Honorable mention goes to my 625 with moonclips, faster more reliable reloads, but its only a 6-shooter and your going to be reloading all the time.
 
S&W TRR8 with plenty of spare moon clips and a good duty holster. Loaded with medium power magnums.
That’s my plan! It will Be here in 2 weeks! The black Kramer horsehide belt scabbard has been ordered too. Should be here by xmas
 

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I wouldnt have any problem with either of these two.

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I have 4" versions too, and they would also work well, but Ive just always been more partial to the "full size" snubbies. A couple of three or so Safariland speedloaders and Id be good to go.

I have/had a few revolvers that take moon clips, and they are quick and easy to get reloaded, its just seeing what happens to anything gun related when it actually gets carried on a daily basis (at least with my lifestyle), Im not sure Id trust those moon clips. Half moons might be a better choice there, but even then Im not sure.

I have 7 shooters too, and I guess my brain is just wired to 6, as I still always find live rounds mixed in with my empties in the piles after Im done shooting and policing my brass. My subconscious brain must be at work doing the math. :) Six also seems to be more natural and works better with the speedloaders on reloading for me too for some reason.


And SNAP! Broke out of that silly sweat induced fantasy of a daydream and put a comforting hand on my 17 in its holster, just to make sure it was a dream. :rofl:
 
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