Improvised angled scope mount - would it work?

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I've got a Savage Mark II I bought with the desire to shoot out to 300 yards. When I finally go the oppurtunity to shoot beyond 100, I found that will the elevation adjustment on my scope pegged, POA met POI somewhere between 175 and 200. I poked around with some ballistics calculators and found that if I want to get out to 300, I'm going to need about 35 MOA or so of additional elevation. 40 MOA rails and scope mounts are pretty common, but not for rimfire rifles, obviously. There are a few companies that make angled rail spacers, but nothing I can find greater than 22 MOA. Also the scope is perfectly elevated at the moment, very comfortable and natural, I'd rather not have to spend the money for a cheek rest and deviate from a setup that's working rather well. I saw Burris made rings with built-in shims that would allow you to adjust the angle without a new base, but if I remember correctly, those particular rings aren't compatible with weaver rails.

So here's my question - I was wondering if I could improvise my own angled ring shims simply by putting a few layers of metal tape on the lower half of my rear ring. Do you think this would work? Do you think it would hold up with time? Do you have any ideas for better solutions?

Thanks in advance.
 
You should only need about 25MOA more up.

You could get an EGW 20MOA base and shim under the rear end.
Burris Signature Zee rings fit Weaver rails.
You could get a scope with more adjustment.

If your scope only has enough adjustment to get you to 200 yards, after you add enough slant to get you to 300, you might not be able to zero at under 150 to 200.
 
You can't simply shim up the inside of the ring.

Doing so will result in springing the scope tube when the rings are tightened down, because it is no longer clamped in a level surface between the front ring and rear ring.

rc
 
i say shim away.......

ive shimmed scopes before....and so long as you dont torque it down with all the might of olympus.....your not likely to damage the scope......

plastic from soda bottles work great....




also, there are also a number of machinist who could make you an rail with a greater cant.......if you wanted to go that route.
 
or shim under the front of the rail with metal tape...I had to do that with my nagant.

I ment REAR of the rail...i had to shim the FRONT of my nagant LOL
 
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Just get the Burris Signature Zee rings and the offset insert kit as they will fit the Weaver base and give you the adjustment that you need.
 
So here's my question - I was wondering if I could improvise my own angled ring shims simply by putting a few layers of metal tape on the lower half of my rear ring. Do you think this would work? Do you think it would hold up with time? Do you have any ideas for better solutions?

Thanks in advance.
That would put you in the wrong direction. The shim should be on the front ring, but I agree with rcmodel that enough shim to matter would be detrimental to your scope.

Use one of the common mounts with 20moa and the internal adjustment to make up the rest. You can always shim that mount slightly if needed
 
So it appears the consensus is either a new mount or new rings. I'm leaning toward the rings, as I can't find anyone that makes angled mounts for rimfire rifles, or any information on whether any of the centerfire models will fit my Mark II. Plus I've got the TRR/SR model with the ridiculous side rails, and I've actually found uses for them and it would be nice to keep them. (They're integrated with the top mount) So it looks like the Burris Zee rings are the way to go. I'm only seeing them for Weaver rails, though. Will they fit picatinny?

That would put you in the wrong direction. The shim should be on the front ring,

Are you sure? If you put a shim under the bottom half of the rear ring, you'd essentially be tilting the scope down, which would require you to tip the rifle up, which in turn gets you more distance for an identical elevation setting. Putting it under the front ring would do the opposite. I am thinking about this correctly, aren't I?
 
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If your running out of elevation, the rear of the scope must go up;) Or think along the line of, the scope is staying level, and the muzzel is going up.
 
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