Kimber specific problem?

[Wild Deuce]

I did an advanced search to try and find an answer to my question before starting a new thread. There seems to be quite a debate about using a slide stop/release as opposed to the "slingshot" method after inserting a fresh magazine. However, that is not the focus of my question.

I own a Kimber Gold Combat RL II. The gun is completely broken in with over 2,500 rounds and no malfunctions since the pre-500 round break-in (3 FTFs). This is not a carry gun (3.5 lb trigger) but is used for league competition and steel plate matches. It gets cleaned after every match. My carry gun is a SA 1911 that I also use for IDPA. The SA is the gun I took to a defensive class where I was taught to slingshot the gun following a reload. Previously, I was comfortable using the slide stop.

Last month, my son was using the Kimber when he attempted to reload it by using the slingshot method. After a few attempts, he switched to using the slide stop. After the match, we attempted repeatedly to relaod the Kimber using the slingshot method to no avail. The following week, after a thorough cleaning, we took the gun to the range and attempted once again to reload the gun after shooting it to slidelock. We tried our Wilson magazines, Tripp Research magazines, Springfield Armory (7 shot) magazines and the original Kimber magazine. The only way to chamber a round was to hit the slide stop. Slingshot attempts would not disengage the slide stop.

I borrowed a friends Kimber TLE/RL II. His pistol does the exact same thing. It will not disengage the slide stop with a slingshot pull on the slide. Similar tests on my Springfield Armory 1911s (including the EMP) all chambered a round regardless of the method used (slingshot or slide stop).

Question: Has any other Kimber owner experienced/noticed a similar problem? Could this be Kimber specific?

 

[Ken Rainey]

Do you have a shock buff in the pistol? That will stop the slide from retracting far enough to disengage the slide stop in a Kimber - at least it does on my full size models, all of mine are pre series II though......

 

[MT GUNNY]

Other than your problem, I think the reason they teach it is because your grip changes when you use the slide stop to release the slide. I for one
like using my slide stop to chamber a round.

My S&W does work using the slingshot method. sorry dont have a kimber, Yet.

 

[Wild Deuce]

Once again I am humbled and impressed at how quickly I can find an answer here at THR. I thought I had considered every possible cause. I did not mention that I had installed Willson Extended Slide Releases on all my 1911s (except of course the EMP). That's because I did switch back and forth to the stock parts during my testing without effect. Also, my friend's Kimber did not have one installed.

It seems that you hit the nail right on the head, Ken. As soon as I read your post, I remembered that both my friend and I had Wilson Shok-Buffs installed. I just removed them and tried several magazines with dummy ammo and snap caps. Also tried feeding a few with live ammo (into a trap). Problem solved. It seems the shok-buffs are the culprit.

By the way, the shok-buffs don't seem to affect full size SA 1911s (at least in regards to the mentioned problem).

Thanks.

 

[Ken Rainey]

Your welcome....glad that solved the issue. I seem to remember that this may be specific to Kimber pistols due to their tolerances??? ... I prefer using the slide stop to release after a reload with my 1911's, but I understand the reasoning and have used the hand over sling shot method - mostly when using other pistols. I use a shock buff when firing full power ammo at the range ... I have never had a problem using the slide stop to reload...but I do always check my pistols with the specific ammo to be used before depending on it

The only buffs that will last in mine are the CP Buffs...I tried a thinner buff one time to try to overcome the slide stop issue and also give the slide more travel room and it got chewed into pieces within two hundred rounds while using cousin 'Tuner's range ammo! I had almost forgotten about that due to other things going on that day !

 

[Kelev]

"It's a safety feature."

I just called Kimber customer service today on a similar issue. I've owned three 1911 style pistols now, and I've gotten intimate with another 10 or so. My Kimber Pro Carry II is the only 1911-style pistol that hasn't worked on a 'slingshot' reload.

Anyway, called Kimber today, and their answer was that the gun was designed to require you to retract the slide and depress the slide stop at the same time... Supposedly to increase safety.

Just my $0.02. Anyone else got any info?

 

[Kruzr]

Ridiculous! Did you get the name of the person you talked to at Kimber so we can all ignore him in the future? Kimber's slingshot just fine unless you put a full thickness shok buff in them.

You can also slice a shok buff to half the thickness if you feel you really need to have one in the gun.

Unless you are shooting with light springs to shorten the muzzle flip time, there is no need for a shok buff in a Kimber.

 

[Kelev]

Unfortunately, no, I didn't get the guy's name.

It's really starting to piss me off that Kimber is not forthcoming with good information and how many problems I've had with the gun.

My problem seems to be that the spring loaded pin that abuts the slide stop is either too tight or too loose. Haven't done much gunsmithing, so I'm not sure which it is. Gun has seen < 500 rounds in its life so far... Fires every kind of ammo I've thrown at it so far. Just the problem with loading after a lock-back... Not sure how much of a problem it would be in a fire-fight, but it's different enough from any other gun I've owned...

 

[Kruzr]

My problem seems to be that the spring loaded pin that abuts the slide stop is either too tight or too loose. Haven't done much gunsmithing, so I'm not sure which it is. Gun has seen < 500 rounds in its life so far... Fires every kind of ammo I've thrown at it so far. Just the problem with loading after a lock-back... Not sure how much of a problem it would be in a fire-fight, but it's different enough from any other gun I've owned...

If you are saying that the slide stop is hard to push down to release the slide, then, if you really want to chamber a round that way, try different magazines. The mags that come with a new Kimber leave a lot to be desired. It's not the gun, it's the magazine.

 

[RobertFBurnett]

My Kimber Gold Match

My $0.02

Just to vent an opposite view, I feel I must release the slide by pulling back the slide with my thumb and bent forefinger and releasing (if that is the same "slingshot" method I am thinking of), and have never had a feed problem with any ammo. Far too often when I have just hit the slide release the hammer has gone down (or in this case up?) with the slide, thank god I only had a test snap cap in the chamber.

My Kimber is entirely factory original parts, w/ no mods.

RFB

 

[Ken Rainey]

RobertFBurnett, If your hammer hooks and sear aren't damaged, then you need to bend your center and left sear spring legs forward just a bit to stop that hammer from following the slide....is it at least getting caught at the half-cock position??

 

[Kelev]

Not yer typical Kimber Slide stop problem

"If you are saying that the slide stop is hard to push down to release the slide, then, if you really want to chamber a round that way, try different magazines. The mags that come with a new Kimber leave a lot to be desired. It's not the gun, it's the magazine."

Nah, it's not a slide stop problem per se... I've tried the Kimber slide stop in other pistols with no problem, and I've tried slide stops from other pistols in the Kimber.

Maybe this will help:

Steps to cause failure of slide lock release...
1. Rack slide with empty mag inserted (lock-back the slide)
2. Remove mag
3. Pull slide all the way to the rear
4. Release slide

Instead of the slide stop dropping out of the way of the slide and allowing the slide to slam home to 'battery', the slide stop only drops halfway and catches the slide in 'lock back' position. It seems to be a problem with the plunger tube assembly... The pin pushing on the slide lock seems to push too hard - not allowing the slide stop to drop to the down position.

I've troubleshot the hole in the frame - the slide stop rotates freely in its normal range of motion. Pretty sure it's too much pressure from the plunger tube assembly...

 

[Majic]

I've seen shock-buffs get raggedy and hang-up a slide. A decent 1911 shouldn't need one and most buffs are best tossed in the trash. Another one of the unneeded gadgets that can cause grief.