Lee Pro 6000 unboxing and testing for OAL consistency

[LiveLife]

NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency and troubleshooting on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-9#post-12471889
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Interesting and insightful analysis. I'm not yet brave enough to disassemble my press that far to find out.

Thank you.

So far, I have disassembled and reassembled the press down to details about 15 times. Each time, my appreciation for engineering and design work that went into the SPP grows as to simpler and more efficient solutions that were executed to resolve progressive reloading task issues of the past.

I was a little frustrated by the case retention levers at first, being used to the Hornady spring, but once I saw that they were easy to set and self adjusting, they grew on me.

Same here. I went, "Dang, why are these so hard to move?" then I realized they stay where I set them at so cases are well retained but on rare occasions when I need to remove them out of sequence, it can be done.

The indexing pin was a major selling point for me, coupled with the index rod is seems more simple and effective than competitors

Whoever came up with the idea to use index pin through shellplate and auto-adjusting index gearing system needs a pat on the back.

 

[Bartojc]

Welcome to the world of progressive reloading!

If you are coming from single stage or turret press, you now have to factor in another reloading variable of shellplate tilt/deflection (BTW, shellplates don't actually "flex" rather tilt or deflect down varying amounts depending on the resizing force applied which in turn will affect amount of case mouth flare, crimp and bullet seating depth/finished OAL). And due to this reason, after adjusting your dies in "turret mode" of running a single case through the shellplate, in "progressive mode" with shellplate full, you may need to readjust your dies and this is normal.

Confirmed in another run today. This time about 70 rounds and since I fine tuned my OAL is +/- .003 ish of my target OAL. Any issues that occurred were operator error and not press error. TBH there really were no errors that I can think of... I short stroked one that's all I can think of.

This hobby sure does grab you. Ordered the collator, I am going to need to add some lighting and/or a powder cop. Been looking at bullet feed dies

I know it has been said but what a wonderful thread with so much detailed information. Anytime I have had a question the answer is here.

-Jeff

 

[LiveLife]

NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency and troubleshooting on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-9#post-12471889
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Confirmed in another run today. This time about 70 rounds and since I fine tuned my OAL is +/- .003 ish of my target OAL. Any issues that occurred were operator error and not press error. TBH there really were no errors that I can think of... I short stroked one that's all I can think of.

Nice!

Been looking at bullet feed dies

Hang tight. Lee Precision is sending me their pre-production inline bullet feeder to beta test. I should be receiving it any day now. I even suggested they consider doing stepped "M" style powder through expander to prevent bullet tipping with bullet feeder and they are already working on it for me to test soon.

I know it has been said but what a wonderful thread with so much detailed information. Anytime I have had a question the answer is here.

Glad to help out fellow members and you are very welcome.

 

[Gillie Dog]

I went, "Dang, why are these so hard to move?" then I realized they stay where I set them at so cases are well retained but on rare occasions when I need to remove them out of sequence, it can be done.

Mine came with the screws so tight they would not move either.
I loosened up the screws until the o'ring underneath had some friction but not smashed flat. They work just fine like you say. I have been testing to see how loose they can run and still do job. Pretty loose.

GD

 

[tightgroup tiger]

My Pro6000 arrived today so I down loaded the template for the bolt pattern and discovered it wouldn't print out 1 to 1 on my printer.
So I had to open my new press early to get the bolt pattern and not wait till Christmas.
(That's my story and It's not changing.)
Anyways,
I built an Oak riser for it like I did my Pro 4000 and needed to have the 6000 on hand for the mounting pattern.


Of course I had to use Quartersawn Oak for it. Nothing but the best for it.
I'll never use the dies they sent because I have the high end micrometer dies from my Pro 4000 that will go in the 6000 once it's in place and ready to go.
The press is way accurate enough to take advantage of the mic dies. The Lee dies will do the same thing but my mic dies just make it easier to keep track of the settings.

@9mmepiphany , you said you couldn't believe how small it was. It's about what I expected, after being used to using a Pro 4000.

I will leave the Pro4000 and the Pro6000 both on their Oak risers and they both have the same mounting pattern for screwing them down to the bench.

That way I will switch the entire press and riser when I need to and they will both use the same holes in my bench.

Here is a picture of the Pro4000 next to the Pro6000.

You can see the pro 4000 is a lot smaller in diameter than the 6000. It dumps out the right side and the 6000 dumps out the front.
I'm really glad they didn't put a roller handle on it. I wouldn't have bought it if they would have.

This is the .38 cal Pro6000 so I will more then likely cut the handle off to shorten the throw. I cut the handle off on my 4000 also and it still has plenty of leverage for .357s and 41 mags before I put the Pro 1000 handle on it.
When I opened the box to get the press out I picked it up and of course I had to turn it over to see if the base was cracked and that's when I heard the sound of some small piece hitting floor.

I froze and looked down at the multi-colored floor intently and their it laid, the primer holder. I was surprised later to find the bottle for the powder measure already had one of each size of primer holder in it, with a set of new primer slides, large and small also NICE!
If I wouldn't have found it, I would still have been able to run the press because of the included set in the powder bottle.

THANK YOU LEE! I like that kind of thinking.

I did find it though and put it back where it belongs.

I need to put a coat of Poly-Urethane on the riser tomorrow, after I drill the mounting holes.

When it dries and the press is mounted, I have a few hundred .357s to run through it. There may be as many as 400, I didn't count them.
I like having these two presses mounted on identical risers so I can change riser and press out as a complete unit.

These Oak riser are Rock solid and have storage built in under the top for dies.

 

[9mmepiphany]

@9mmepiphany , you said you couldn't believe how small it was. it's about what I expected, after being used to using a Pro 4000.

Yes, I realize it is a matter of perspective.

I'm used to working with a Hornady LNL AP and the other progressive I've had on the bench lately has been a Dillon 750. I remember being literally stunned, the first time I first saw how small a Dillon Square Deal was. I really expected the Pro-6K to be the size of a Dillon 550

 

[tightgroup tiger]

Lee makes it as small as they can get away with. A matter of efficiency I suppose. I don't care as long as it works and I'll find that out tomorrow when the wipe on Poly is dry. The riser came out good.

It will be dry tomorrow and the Pro 6000 will be mounted on it.

I'm used to working with a Hornady LNL AP and the other progressive I've had on the bench lately has been a Dillon 750. I remember being literally stunned, the first time I first saw how small a Dillon Square Deal was. I really expected the Pro-6K to be the size of a Dillon 550

Yeah, it's a dwarf compared to a LNL-AP. I have one too.

 

[LiveLife]

NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency and troubleshooting on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-9#post-12471889
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So I had to open my new press early to get the bolt pattern and not wait till Christmas.

(That's my story and It's not changing.)

Sounds good to me.

And congrats!

 

[Tilos]

My Pro6000 arrived today so I down loaded the template for the bolt pattern and discovered it wouldn't print out 1 to 1 on my printer.
So I had to open my new press early to get the bolt pattern and not wait till Christmas.
(That's my story and It's not changing.)
Anyways,
I built an Oak riser for it like I did my Pro 4000 and needed to have the 6000 on hand for the mounting pattern.
View attachment 1116807

Of course I had to use Quartersawn Oak for it. Nothing but the best for it.
I'll never use the dies they sent because I have the high end micrometer dies from my Pro 4000 that will go in the 6000 once it's in place and ready to go.
The press is way accurate enough to take advantage of the mic dies. The Lee dies will do the same thing but my mic dies just make it easier to keep track of the settings.

@9mmepiphany , you said you couldn't believe how small it was. It's about what I expected, after being used to using a Pro 4000.

I will leave the Pro4000 and the Pro6000 both on their Oak risers and they both have the same mounting pattern for screwing them down to the bench.

That way I will switch the entire press and riser when I need to and they will both use the same holes in my bench.

Here is a picture of the Pro4000 next to the Pro6000.
View attachment 1116811
You can see the pro 4000 is a lot smaller in diameter than the 6000. It dumps out the right side and the 6000 dumps out the front.
I'm really glad they didn't put a roller handle on it. I wouldn't have bought it if they would have.

This is the .38 cal Pro6000 so I will more then likely cut the handle off to shorten the throw. I cut the handle off on my 4000 also and it still has plenty of leverage for .357s and 41 mags before I put the Pro 1000 handle on it.
When I opened the box to get the press out I picked it up and of course I had to turn it over to see if the base was cracked and that's when I heard the sound of some small piece hitting floor.

I froze and looked down at the multi-colored floor intently and their it laid, the primer holder. I was surprised later to find the bottle for the powder measure already had one of each size of primer holder in it, with a set of new primer slides, large and small also NICE!
If I wouldn't have found it, I would still have been able to run the press because of the included set in the powder bottle.

THANK YOU LEE! I like that kind of thinking.

I did find it though and put it back where it belongs.

I need to put a coat of Poly-Urethane on the riser tomorrow, after I drill the mounting holes.

When it dries and the press is mounted, I have a few hundred .357s to run through it. There may be as many as 400, I didn't count them.
I like having these two presses mounted on identical risers so I can change riser and press out as a complete unit.

These Oak riser are Rock solid and have storage built in under the top for dies.

Nice
I've seen risers made out of Oak Stair Treads as a 4-sided box, open front and back, but yours tops them for sure.

I've been mulling over whether to buy just the press or the complete kit.
The extra you get with the kit is well worth the extra $100 it cost but I'm not a fan of the Auto Drum Powder Measure and have one already that I never use, as my measure of choice for pistol is the Lee Pro Auto Disc.

So, once you spot the holes in the riser will you be putting the press back in the box and under the tree 'til Christmas?

.

 

[GW Staar]

I fixed the Christmas problem.....my Christmas is this week! Even Christmas colors.....

This is new to me more ways than one. New press, yes, but I don't yet own a 9mm. I have .357's, .45's, .40s&w's, .22's but never thought I needed a 9mm. I'm thinking about getting my wife one, so I bought the press only, bought a shell plate separately, and am using one of my many Uniflow powder measures.....and of course today I printed up a bullet feeder plate for 9mm for the first time.....pleased to say no operational flaws .... yet. At least I have a 9mm bullet feeder die I printed up a couple of months ago....that bright red thing on the Pro 6000 die deck.....it also works perfecto!

Two of my Grandsons shoot 9mm and they've been the catalyst to get me to add it since they bought a set of Lee 9mm dies and I've helped them load a few on my Rock Chucker.

So below is two pictures of the new setup.....before I clean the bench. We will fill the Uniflow with powder, add some primers and will see what it can do. The boys are excited! OK, me too.

Below is my first of 3 bullet feeders I printed....this one is the original AmmoMike version with the brand new 9mm red plate. Grey Clutch part in the middle....screws are too long but will take care of that eventually. I also printed two case collators too....and have a modified Hornady pistol bullet feeder.....so I think I'm done printing collators.

#6 is empty....I did order a separate taper crimp die yesterday.....but tomorrow we will see if I can make do with the seater/crimper combo. RCBS Uniflow with case activated linkage on the right.


Closer view of the press and top goodies.....no case collator yet....but will do that soon. (I do have a Lee Shaker if I feel the urge)

My collators are mounted as this one is on the same horizontal steel tube. So I can slide them from one press to another if I wish.

 

[LiveLife]

NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency and troubleshooting on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-9#post-12471889
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I'm not a fan of the Auto Drum Powder Measure and have one already that I never use, as my measure of choice for pistol is the Lee Pro Auto Disc.

But Auto Drum with Bottle Adapter allows you to screw the factory powder container so there's no need to transfer powder. Well, I guess you could use the Bottle Adapter with PAD also - https://leeprecision.com/powder-measure-bottle-adapter.html

When the reloading session is over, use the breech lock bushing wrench to remove and turn powder container right side up to drain powder back into the container. Clean and simple. And you will never pour the powder into wrong container, ever.

And if you prefer the regular red hopper with lid, you can still get it - https://leeprecision.com/hopper-cov-round-red.html

 

[tightgroup tiger]

GW Staar,
Do those bullet feed dies work on coated lead bullets? I have the Horandy bullet feed die but I think I already know it won't work with coated lead bullets.
I don't mind setting them by hand but having a bullet feeder that works with the bullets I use, on the 6 station press, would be to much to ignore.
I'll be watching to see what Lee invents for a bullet feeder and the I want the stepped ptx for my measure.

I've seen risers made out of Oak Stair Treads as a 4-sided box, open front and back, but yours tops them for sure.

Thank you, These are easy to make too. I use Titebond III for glue. Once it sets it doesn't come apart. I had to break a joint apart on a shelf bracket I made and had to use a hammer to do it. Just a end of a board glued to the face of another one. It tore the face out of the Oak board when it came apart.

The bull nose I do on my router table, its effortless in any direction, grain doesn't matter. Just have to slow down coming off the corners.

The extra you get with the kit is well worth the extra $100 it cost but I'm not a fan of the Auto Drum Powder Measure and have one already that I never use

I've never used one, DudeDog told me they work pretty good. I've been using the same Pro Auto Disc for almost 30 years now. It's broke in now.
The one with the fishing weight hung on the lever.
If I don't get along with the Auto Drum I can go back to using my PAD. Those Auto Drum measures seem to be controversial. Hopefully mine doesn't leak.
I got some good people here to help me with it if I do have problems.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

Well I wish I could give it a rave review right from the start but it was running really rough with the carrier moving up and down about an 1/8" on the ram and then the entire carrier came off the ram.

I assume the set screw in the center of the ram spreads the fingers out to grip the carrier. I will put it back on and hurry up and wait.
The hex key I need didn't come with it. Guess I'm done for the day. Can't fix it, can't run it.
I'll call Lee on Friday I guess.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

The hex key is a standard 3/8" I remembered someone said Lee uses all SAE screws. I had one. The set screw was never tightened from the factory.
It was just screwed in the top of the hole of the ram.

I don't know if I did this right but when I pushed the carrier back down on the ram so it bottomed out,(was on the whole way) the lever was really spongy when bringing the ram down. I noticed side torqueing on the carrier.

With the ram completely down, it seemed like primer punch was acting as the bottom stop. So with the set screw still loose I put the ram down so the carrier wasn't getting torqued really hard from the primer punch. It pulled the ram out of the carrier some but everything hits bottom at the same time now.
There is a nice solid hit when the ram comes down now. That has to be better for it then letting the primer punch take all the abuse and pushing sideways on the carrier like that.
Being the carrier is higher on the ram now, I still have clearance with the carrier completely up so it is topping out like it's supposed to.

I'll still call Lee tomorrow to see if that's the correct way to do it. I can't think that using the primer punch for a lower stop is what they had in mind.
But it's running again. (And much smoother too)

 

[tightgroup tiger]

Problem #2:
The bar the turns the carrier is bent wrong and won't go all the way down in the slot so I can't get a bushing all the way in that station.
I will try to re-bend this make it fit.

I hope these aren't tempered really hard because I don't want it to break.

Edit to add: The rod is mild steel. it bent easily and is all better now.

 

[LiveLife]

NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency and troubleshooting on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-9#post-12471889
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carrier came off the ram ... The set screw was never tightened from the factory.It was just screwed in the top of the hole of the ram.

Yikes ... You know post Covid, many companies have hard time finding good help. Yup, looks like that shellplate carrier set screw was never tightened at the factory.

The hex key is a standard 3/8"

I don't know if I did this right but when I pushed the carrier back down on the ram so it bottomed out

While I didn't remove the set screw from the shellplate carrier, these are pictures of how carrier with set screw tightened looked during disassembly.

Had I removed the carrier from the ram, I would have done the same by lowering the carrier to make sure the index pin was through the slot cut into the carrier and pushing the carrier all the way down on the ram before tightening with the 3/8" Allen wrench.

 

[Gillie Dog]

With the ram completely down, it seemed like primer punch was acting as the bottom stop. So with the set screw still loose I put the ram down so the carrier wasn't getting torqued really hard from the primer punch. It pulled the ram out of the carrier some but everything hits bottom at the same time now.
There is a nice solid hit when the ram comes down now. That has to be better for it then letting the primer punch take all the abuse and pushing sideways on the carrier like that.
Being the carrier is higher on the ram now, I still have clearance with the carrier completely up so it is topping out like it's supposed to.

I'll still call Lee tomorrow to see if that's the correct way to do it. I can't think that using the primer punch for a lower stop is what they had in mind.
But it's running again. (And much smoother too)

Yes, by looking at it, the carrier goes all way down on ram and primer punch is bottom stop. I believe that is the short fall of using an existing part, the linkage from a 50 cal machine, because the bottom linkage stop does not make contact and the bottom cover, plastic cup of the primer punch, is the stop. The linkage mechanical stop does function at the top. I commented on that very early on but it only comes into play when not setting a primer or the case in station 2 has no primer in it, otherwise the prime punch itself is the down stop pushing against the primer in the case. So in dry cycling or any other time not pushing down hard on the handle solves the problem if it is one.
I would ask Lee to replace it so the carrier is properly indexed on the ram. Is there some mechanical way it is indexed properly on ram and thus not an issue, maybe the index pin? You are one up on us by actually seeing it.

GD

Opps. LiveLife beat me to it.

 

[LiveLife]

NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency and troubleshooting on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-9#post-12471889
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Is there some mechanical way it is indexed properly on ram and thus not an issue, maybe the index pin?

Opps. LiveLife beat me to it.

Yes, the index pin ensures carrier body and shellplate covers are in proper alignment.

When I disassembled and reassembled the shellplate carrier covers like 15 times, I found once everything was lined up, raising the shellplate carrier with top/bottom covers up slightly to release the priming rod/pin spring tension helped tighten the covers up without binding the priming rod/pin with the top cover hole/sleeve that could hinder the primer guide from entering station #2 freely/fully.

(NOTE: With the shellplate carrier and top/bottom covers raised slightly and held with one hand, I was able to tighten the two flathead screws on top with the other hand while allowing me to push up on the priming rod/pin to make sure it moved up and down freely.

Tightening the two flathead screws with shellplate carrier and covers pushed down at bottom of ram travel resulted in priming rod/pin rubbing the top cover sleeve and did not allow the priming rod/pin to move up and down freely.)

 

[Gillie Dog]

Yes, the index pin ensures carrier body and shellplate covers are in proper alignment.

Yes, all understood. They provided no alignment method on ram after seeing his picture. Obviously not needed.

Then with the linkage pins in the bottom of the ram, finding center on the ram slack by rotating back and forth, then holding it and finding center on the carrier by rotating back and forth, left and right against index pin with sitting carrier on top of ram will be the sweet spot so everything is as centered as possible and slap/tolerance clearances will be equal all directions and hopefully provide centered carrier without any contact with carrier on the index pin, or so slight it is negligible. Carrier covers will automatically properly line up because carrier is properly set. Will have to dissemble mine just to do it and make me feel good about assembly. I will bet Lee made a tool of some sort to hold ram when tightening screw/bolt in center. OCD never lets up. It is all fun.

GD

 

[GW Staar]

On mine all the ram linkage was only screwed on.....not even finger tight. So be aware of that possibility. The sideways play made the ram not go up and down smooth....a catch. Totally went away when I wrenched it tighter. How tight.....who knows.....I guess too tight would make the handle sluggish. Just so...? Reminds my of some of my wife's recipes in the kitchen. A pinch of this.....

 

[Rule3]

But Auto Drum with Bottle Adapter allows you to screw the factory powder container so there's no need to transfer powder. Well, I guess you could use the Bottle Adapter with PAD also - https://leeprecision.com/powder-measure-bottle-adapter.html

When the reloading session is over, use the breech lock bushing wrench to remove and turn powder container right side up to drain powder back into the container. Clean and simple. And you will never pour the powder into wrong container, ever.

The dumbest idea they ever came up with, This and the plastic clear bottle. The old red container with lid is much better. I still use it. The new system doesn't allow you to test drop charges and dump back in the hopper. You have to keep a open bottle of powder on the bench,
When I bought a new auto measure the ad/picture still showed the red hopper, when I got it it had the clear bottle. I wanted the red hopper but NOOO they would not exchange it for one, had to buy it as an extra. That and few other things, did me in for being a Lee fan boy.

 

[LiveLife]

NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency and troubleshooting on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...r-oal-consistency.911743/page-9#post-12471889
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The old red container with lid is much better. I still use it.

The new system doesn't allow you to test drop charges and dump back in the hopper. You have to keep a open bottle of powder on the bench

When using factory powder container as hopper using the Bottle Adapter, I would dump test charges into the clear hopper and when finished, pour powder back into the factory container.

But you can order the regular red hopper with lid - https://leeprecision.com/hopper-cov-round-red.html

 

[LiveLife]

This ... is the best detailed assembly/how-to ... I have seen in a long while.

I do not own this press and I watched and read the whole thing, it was that interesting

We are on page 9 and there's a sea of information to sort through.

So to help those looking for particular press operation/disassembly/reassembly help without having to read through the whole thread, I did some organizing:

Press Set Up:

• Press mounting and initial set up
• Press lubrication
• SPP size comparison to Dillon 550
• SPP size comparison to ABLP
• Selecting powder charge station to prevent powder entering priming rod/pin sleeve
• Initial set up of dies (Lee Precision instructions)
  
• Setting up dies for greater precision
• Powder measure with Bottle Adapter using factory powder container

New Priming System:

• Part 1 - New priming system overview and primer seating depth
• Part 2 - New priming system detail and small/large primer guide removal
• Part 1 - Priming system using same priming rod/pin for small/large primers
• Part 2 - Priming system using same priming rod/pin for small/large primers

Press Disassembly and Reassembly:

• Press disassembly and reassembly step-by-step (Lee Precision instructions)
• SPP ram, linkage and lever are same as .50 caliber Classic Cast single stage press
• Shellplate detent ball and spring

Fine tuning press operation for consistency:

• Inherent progressive press shellplate tilt/deflection affecting OAL variance (Lee Precision explanation)
• OAL variance testing with mixed/sorted range brass by headstamp in progressive mode
• OAL variance listing by headstamp in progressive mode
• OAL consistency testing methodology
• Part 1 - OAL consistency enhancement when using mixed range brass
• Part 2 - OAL consistency enhancement when using mixed range brass

Troubleshooting and Solutions:

• Resolution to primer slider spring crushing/end snagging primer slider channel tabs
• Resolution to priming rod/pin not actuating freely
• Resolution to locked up shellplate < Waiting on verification >
• Resolution to shellplate to top press head/die misalignment
• Resolution to powder entering priming rod/pin sleeve
• Carrier core to ram hex bolt torque spec is 40 ft/lb
  
• Inline bullet feeder/rotary magazine and stepped "M" style powder through expander R&D

 

[Gillie Dog]

On mine all the ram linkage was only screwed on.....not even finger tight. So be aware of that possibility. The sideways play made the ram not go up and down smooth....a catch. Totally went away when I wrenched it tighter. How tight.....who knows.....I guess too tight would make the handle sluggish. Just so...? Reminds my of some of my wife's recipes in the kitchen. A pinch of this.....

As required, OCD again, I totally disassembled mine for cleaning and lube when new. Everything was set well from factory with smooth operation of the press and, yes, the link bolt has a lock nut to hold proper set point once found. The link pin with its wave washer is just tightened as is the lever clamp bolt is tightened also.

Link bolt is the odd ball one. Needed a little tighten/loosen to get right again.

GD

 

[GW Staar]

We are on page 9 and there's a sea of information to sort through.

Too funny.....you have no idea on how long this can go on!

On Castboolits, I got involved with first Ammo Mike, then TylerR with the 3D printer bullet collator thread......we are on page 156!!!
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator/page1554

At least here Walkalong might save you! But you're not quite to tired......yet! It's fun to help people.