Make the mini14 suck less or making the mini14 great again

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OK. I bought into the Ruger Mini-14's back in 1977-78. I had bought a model 180 and having a policy that two are better than one I bought another, but Ruger had come out with the model 181 so I had one of each model.
Both shot per spec 3-4 MOA. Not happy, but the military and later civilian careers kept them in the safe. Fast forward to 2002-03 and retirement. At my local range, I met a fellow shooter who convinced me cryogenics would take out the manufacturing stresses and improve accuracy. Sent both out and had the receiver/barrel/compensator assemblies treated. Sent the triggers out to a gunsmith that reduced pull and creep. Decided the action was too sloppy in the stock. Not willing to try to bed the actions, I shimmed the actions to the stocks.
Hand loaded 69 gr Nosler BTHP w/Benchmark powder, Winchester once fired brass, Rem 7-1/2 Benchrest primers, seating depth 2.265". Powder weight not provided for liability reasons. Velocity 2,970 fps.
Accuracy 1 MOA
No strut, no barrel change/modification, no stock change. Yes, I am cheap but willing to experiment.
Oh, I sold the model 180 this year for $999. Paid for both as well as for their modifications.
 
I too have a magic load that shoots about 2 inches in my mini14. But I want a mini that shoots most loads good.
That powder load sounds pretty hot, like full on 5.56. I have one like that for my A2 rifle, about 1.5 moa on A2 sites, runs about 2,950fps. But the mini14 does not like that load very much, shooting about 4moa.
 
Since the mini has about a 10 inch gas system, I'll be using a silencer and likely I'll be running reloads with roughly a start load to mid range load worth of faster burning 223 appropriate powder as that's what seems to be the universal mini14 accuracy load. I believe a 16 inch barrel is in order.
I'm going to cut down the barrel to about 16 inches, plus a small fraction in case I encounter someone's pet idiot who don't know how to use a tape measure, a rod and marker.
It doesn't make sense for me to run a full 18.5 inch barrel imo.
 
It looks like there isn't any reason why you can't put a 580 barrel on an older mini14.
My 580 series never shot better than 4 MOA. I sold it when I bought my AR. Now I wish I had it back; it was black on black with a flash hider, very cool looking :cool:
 
If I didn't have my old beat down mini14 I would have probably bought a new one recently.
I think I can make it better than new for a lot less than a new one.

A new 580 series stainless barrel.
$130 shipped.

Back yard trigger job, might have to replace a seer spring I cut.
$10 maybe

Total $140 so far.

Power Custom barrel and receiver blocks with home made wrench and vise holder for said blocks.
$100

Total $240

Thread the barrel, up to $100.

Total $340.

Add the accuracy systems adjustable gas block $230.

Total $570.

I might need to buy a finishing ream if head spacing is too tight.
$125

I'll just round it to $700

Hopefully I can resell the 1x slightly used reamer for up to $100.
-$100

Total $600

Sell my pencil barrel gas block, I see them listed for up to $200 but I want to sell it quick.
-$150

Total $450

Sell my Power custom blocks with my home made extreme heavy duty wrench/vise set for $200 when I'm done with them.
-$200

Total $250

I found a guy who used to do a lot of M14, M1A, ruger mini, M1 garand, M1 and M2 carbine work in the 1990s I'm going to go talk to. I'll bring him the trigger for better or worse see what he thinks.
My lathe guy got his lathe put back together and it's running great so I should be able to barrow it for a bit and throw some threads on there. Knock $100 off that price.
 
I got an AR15 upper one time that shot all over the place. Wasn't sure why it shot all over the place, it was definitely worse than a mini14. Got some AR15 tools, took it apart, put it back together, still shot all over the place. The only thing I could find that was "out" on that upper was head spacing. That upper would swallow my "no go" gauge no problem. My 180 series will also swallow a "no go" gauge and go into battery like it's an empty chamber.
I took that upper, changed the barrel to a Delton, kept the same palmetto BCG, won't go into battery on the "no go" gauge, goes into battery tight on the go gauge. Now it shoots under 2moa with its favorite ammo.
Sold that messed up palmetto barrel on gun broker with a dire warning that the head spacing was way off, it may be dangerous to shoot and the barrel would shoot at least 6 inch groups at 70 yards. Figured I could get top $ for it at the height of the plandemic and I did, $80.
When I finish my 180/580 hybrid I'll slowly and carefully cut the 223wylde chamber until the 5.56 go gauge goes into battery tight. As far as "go" and "no go" are concerned 5.56 and 223wylde chambers head space the same.
So far I cut about 25 thousands off the barrel shoulder so it screws that much further into the receiver. But the head spacing is only about 10 thousands too tight on the "go" gauge.......
The rifle that barrel came off must have had a really loose chamber.

Midwayusa dot com finally shipped my order, only took them a week.

I have good reason to believe correct, tight on the go gauge head spacing is good for accuracy.
 
It’s an apples and oranges comparison.

The Mini-14 was never envisioned as some 600 yards sniper’s rifle. It was designed to be handy and useful for ranchers, hunters, etc. It is more than accurate enough for its purpose. Millions of satisfied users over the years and the gun looks great in a gun rack or slung over the shoulder.
 
This is ultra mini14. This one's going to shot as good as it looks.

Already established the mini14 can shoot it's own hand loads very well. You should be able to pick any popular propellant and any common bullet and get at least mil spec accuracy with some load development. Select powder like H322 and trying out several different bullets will get even better. My good mini14 load is Sierra 64gr TMK with a start load of H322. M193 bullets also did very well with a near start load of H322.
 
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