Mark_Mark's 3D Printer, for Reloading Stuff, is On the Way

[Mark_Mark]

It's actually part of a tube bullet feeder kit which also includes an "M" neck expander which I use also. Sorry it's not cheap best price I see is directly from RCBS:
https://www.rcbs.com/presses/press-...er--rifle-kit-progressive-press/16-82362.html

I am tempted to buy one of Lees new "inline" bullet feeders to try, but don't know if the "pusher part would have to be changed a little.

Would be GREAT if Lee (or somebody) would start making "windowed" pistol bullet seaters so we could make this work on pistol as well.

wooe $135! ouch

 

[GW Staar]

Both dies are included so about $66 a piece and that expensive but tough graphic tube. Would like to see the Inline Lee die closer.

 

[Mark_Mark]

what’s that top part you are printing?
green ?

 

[GW Staar]

Both dies are included so about $66 a piece and that expensive but tough graphic tube. Would like to see the Inline Lee die closer.

That should work too. TylerR's bullet feed die. I'll check it out to be sure this morning.

 

[Remington1911]

my new roll of PLA Grey is stringy. The white roll that came with the machine is smooth and nice.

View attachment 1193310View attachment 1193311

Most likely a temp or retraction setting.

All filaments are just a tick different from each other. PLA from brand A might not like the same settings as brand B.

Always to a test print with a new roll. This way you see quickly if everything is good.

They do require "fiddling" with to keep them running well. Personally I like a glass bed, I think that might be the fires upgrade I look at.

 

[Rimfire McNutjob]

I found myself buying a bunch of holders and other gadgets online for my reloading and all were clearly 3D printed ... shell plate holders, primer tube holders, collet holders, etc. I decided to try my hand at it so I loaded Fusion360 and created a duplicate die plate for my press. I've ordered a BabuLabs X1E printer that should be here tomorrow. So I will be joining the party soon hopefully.

I know ... the die plate will not hold up in PLA. I just needed something to start learning from so I popped it off the press and got my calipers out. I'll print one and test fit it ... which is probably where I'll learn about shrink, etc. Some day I might print it in PolyCast and then try my hand at casting new ones in aluminum or brass. Die plates for my press are a bit hard to come by.

 

[Remington1911]

I agree with the first two sentences......but......I've never paid for a slicer, having found one that does everything I could imagine. Even some like texturing that I haven't seen in others.

Your post has no details except "paid version of Cura". What printers do you use, and what brands of filament should we be scared of. So far I've used the reasonably priced Overture, Zyltec, and Matterhackers and I've found no "junk" from them.....lucky I guess. One thing I will say, is they are sometimes "different" as in what nozzle temperature works best for a particular PLA formulation.....( Mark_Mark, read those directions....less than a page), and I acknowledge that I have limited myself to PLA, PLA pro (+), and PLA composites, with special love for the Silks. I don't use an enclosure.....have not needed one, or the harder to use filaments. Haven't wanted the extra grief. Never used ABS or Petg.......okay.....yet......

That makes me an amateur, but a happy one. I like IdeaMaker and it's free. Why? No limitations, menus are organized, and easy to follow. And the first thing I turned off was the "simple" mode where lots of decisions are made for you. I wanted to know what every command actually does, and have the experience tweaking each one.

My first one several years ago was a Prusa, the real deal. Now I am using a Chiron, I needed that extra volume.

I don't remember what filament I am using now that I am happy with. I do have a few rolls of "junk" at home, if I remember I will look at the makes and let you know.

 

[GW Staar]

I found myself buying a bunch of holders and other gadgets online for my reloading and all were clearly 3D printed ... shell plate holders, primer tube holders, collet holders, etc. I decided to try my hand at it so I loaded Fusion360 and created a duplicate die plate for my press. I've ordered a BabuLabs X1E printer that should be here tomorrow. So I will be joining the party soon hopefully.

I know ... the die plate will not hold up in PLA. I just needed something to start learning from so I popped it off the press and got my calipers out. I'll print one and test fit it ... which is probably where I'll learn about shrink, etc. Some day I might print it in PolyCast and then try my hand at casting new ones in aluminum or brass. Die plates for my press are a bit hard to come by.

So, you got us curious now.......which press is hard to find shell plates for? Bambulabs printers are the rage right now.....will be interesting to hear your experience with it. I tried a shell holder once....worked great until I tried to size a case....then it pulled the case right through the rim on the upstroke......keep it to light weight duties all but sizing should work fine. Maybe deprime and size on a single then then bling with pins like I do? Expanding necks on rifle might be iffy too.....

 

[Mark_Mark]

My first one several years ago was a Prusa, the real deal. Now I am using a Chiron, I needed that extra volume.

I don't remember what filament I am using now that I am happy with. I do have a few rolls of "junk" at home, if I remember I will look at the makes and let you know.

How expensive is the Mid-Top printers?

 

[Rimfire McNutjob]

So, you got us curious now.......which press is hard to find shell plates for? Bambulabs printers are the rage right now.....will be interesting to hear your experience with it. I tried a shell holder once....worked great until I tried to size a case....then it pulled the case right through the rim on the upstroke......keep it to light weight duties all but sizing should work fine. Maybe deprime and size on a single then then bling with pins like I do? Expanding necks on rifle might be iffy too.....

Not shell plates ... die plates / top plates ... 5 hole. I've got a couple of Ammomaster Auto's ... same die plate as the Piggyback 1 & 2. Part #88799 or 88801 bare. I could get one on eBay for $100+ I suppose.

I do plan on duplicating and then modifying the shell plate carrier though ... maybe make a run at a different indexing mechanism, add attachment spots for case feeds, etc. That would probably be printed in PolyCast and then cast in Zamac.

I waited for the X1E so I could run cloudless. I am in IT and not a fan of cloud connected. They had a big snafu late in 2023 due to cloud-connected incompetence. Printers waking in the middle of the night and starting prints.

 

[GW Staar]

Not shell plates ... die plates / top plates ... 5 hole. I've got a couple of Ammomaster Auto's ... same die plate as the Piggyback 1 & 2. Part #88799 or 88801 bare. I could get one on eBay for $100+ I suppose.

I do plan on duplicating and then modifying the shell plate carrier though ... maybe make a run at a different indexing mechanism, add attachment spots for case feeds, etc. That would probably be printed in PolyCast and then cast in Zamac.

I waited for the X1E so I could run cloudless. I am in IT and not a fan of cloud connected. They had a big snafu late in 2023 due to cloud-connected incompetence. Printers waking in the middle of the night and starting prints.

View attachment 1193348

That makes more sense.....I need to learn to read better or at least be in less than a hurry. That would hold up better than a shell plate at least.I

You will be pleasantly surprised about lack of shrinkage problems with PLA. If the drawings have the die plate;s dimensions it will fit.

BTW, TH3d Studio is playing with Bambu stuff.....they have a section devoted to it and are using it some.....that place is where I bought my bed leveling system which is awesome performing and no moving parts to crunch as beginners (yup me still) okay maybe enders (end of lifers) tend to do. I just replaced a factory one on my new printer too....just really like and trust them and the firmware is better than Creality's.

 

[Mark_Mark]

you guys think this stringing is from Temp?

 

[hillbillysharpshooter]

I went down the 3d rabbit hole 4 or 5 months ago but i bought a Sovol SV-06 plus 3d printer and their laser engraver option. It was a bit of a learning curve but not too bad. There's tons of info on Reddit. Then last weekend i went down a deeper rabbit hole with a Sherline 5000 mini milling machine, this is going to be a much bigger learning curve than the printer.... I couldnt pass up the deal. The kid selling it said his step dad bought it but never put it together before he passed. He was asking 600 since it was an open box but was new. I asked him what his lowest price he would take and was shocked when he said 200 and its yours. I jumped at it.

 

[GW Staar]

you guys think this stringing is from Temp?

View attachment 1193349
View attachment 1193350

That and/or retraction settings. Been there. Where you are printing to things side by side you want the filament to retract and take the pressure off or that filament keeps coming while the head passes to the next model. You won't get any of that if you're just printing one. But what the fun of that....who has time to wait for each piece at a time. So teach the print head to suck that filament back a few mm until the next model is reached.....

Here is a print out of the extruder menu on IdeaMaker and shows all the settings for extraction....If I hover over any description, it instantly tells me what I need to know about that command....and if I need more than that I push a button on that pop up which takes me to the company's web page on the subject.

But that said, you need to find out what your retraction settings are and how you change them on Creality's slicer......

 

[Mark_Mark]

That and/or retraction settings. Been there. Where you are printing to things side by side you want the filament to retract and take the pressure off or that filament keeps coming while the head passes to the next model. You won't get any of that if you're just printing one. But what the fun of that....who has time to wait for each piece at a time. So teach the print head to suck that filament back a few mm until the next model is reached.....

Here is a print out of the extruder menu on IdeaMaker and shows all the settings for extraction....I I hover over any description, it instantly tells me what I need to know about that commnad....and if I need more than that I push a button on that pop up that takes me to the company's web page on the subject.

But that said, you need to fine out what your retraction setting are and how you change them on Creality's slicer......

View attachment 1193354

I see what you’re saying now. Let me mess with the setting and try a model that’s not right next to each other. It’s going go one part then the next then back.

 

[lordpaxman]

I’m guessing this thread will reach 35 pages…
I did say there are many more variables with 3d printing than reloading. Just take a look at the various settings the slicer gives you.
Each vendor’s filament might be a bit different. Creality is going to program their slicer with their filament with the best/tested settings they have. The slicers usually allow you to select a particular vendor’s filament, but… a temperature test print is the way to determine if that needs tweaking In the settings.

It’s nice to know your fam is interested in the 3d printer - it’s amazing to me that they’ve gotten this inexpensive. Heck, my grandson got a very limited version of one from Santa!

 

[Mark_Mark]

I’m guessing this thread will reach 35 pages…
I did say there are many more variables with 3d printing than reloading. Just take a look at the various settings the slicer gives you.
Each vendor’s filament might be a bit different. Creality is going to program their slicer with their filament with the best/tested settings they have. The slicers usually allow you to select a particular vendor’s filament, but… a temperature test print is the way to determine if that needs tweaking In the settings.

It’s nice to know your fam is interested in the 3d printer - it’s amazing to me that they’ve gotten this inexpensive. Heck, my grandson got a very limited version of one from Santa!

I kinda want to buy 2 printers! it’s now running 24/7

 

[GW Staar]

Gets that way, for sure.

• What brand is the grey filament are you using?
• What temperature does the filament box suggest?
• What temperature is the nozzle and the bed?
• How far how much and how fast are you retracting? Too much is worst that not enough....you get clogs.

Lowering you temperature makes it less runny too....less runny means less distance it "drags"

I run most of my PLA at 210 to 215 degrees....210 is less stringy than 215, but sometimes some filaments at 215 doesn't string at all. Trial and error is the name of the new game you are playing. If keeping records is your strong point, then you will soon be past my skill.

BTW, this latest print you are in the middle off.....what's your layer height?

 

[Mark_Mark]

Gets that way, for sure.

• What brand is the grey filament are you using?
• What temperature does the filament box suggest?
• What temperature is the nozzle and the bed?
• How far how much and how fast are you retracting? Too much is worst that not enough....you get clogs.

Lowering you temperature makes it less runny too....less runny means less distance it "drags"

I run most of my PLA at 210 to 215 degrees....210 is less stringy than 215, but sometimes some filaments at 215 doesn't string at all. Trial and error is the name of the new game you are playing. If keeping records is your strong point, then you will soon be past my skill.

BTW, this latest print you are in the middle off.....what's your layer height?

PLA recommend temp is 190 to 200

nozzle is 200

bed is 66

I have the reaction time at factory, have not mess with that yet

last print was not good, I’m going to try to tweet a few things

thanks

 

[GW Staar]

PLA recommend temp is 190 to 200

nozzle is 200

bed is 66

I have the reaction time at factory, have not mess with that yet

last print was not good, I’m going to try to tweet a few things

thanks

Consider that those temps are what Creality recommended for their white PLA......what brand is the grey and is it PLA or PLA+. Look the the Filament box and see what temps they recommend.
Retraction is probably the culprit.....try printing those two items by themselves. I've never printed anything at 190 to 200. Surprising that their white worked at that temp. Things change....that's for sure. Glad my brands haven't ......yet....

The other thing I'm curious about is fit.......did the inner piece slide in okay......if not did you print at the .12 layer height I suggested. .2mm layer height doesn't work to well for me in the fine parts that fit together .12 always does. And BTW get some Acetone to smooth up places that are rough.....then try polishing them. I have used Dillon's brass polish and it shined it up ok.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Consider that those temps are what Creality recommended for their white PLA......what brand is the grey and is it PLA or PLA+. Look the the Filament box and see what temps they recommend.
Retraction is probably the culprit.....try printing those two items by themselves. I've never printed anything at 190 to 200. Surprising that their white worked at that temp. Things change....that's for sure. Glad my brands haven't ......yet....

The other thing I'm curious about is fit.......did the inner piece slide in okay......if not did you print at the .12 layer height I suggested. .2mm layer height doesn't work to well for me in the fine parts that fit together .12 always does. And BTW get some Acetone to smooth up places that are rough.....then try polishing them. I have used Dillon's brass polish and it shined it up ok.

the brand is PLA and I’m trying to find the reaction adjustment, probably in the software during slicing. I’m doing another print test at 195 nozzle temp. with a single part. Let’s see what happens



the part was pretty rough and slide together but tight, nothing a little 800 grit sandpaper can’t take care of! I’ll
try some acetone too.

Next step is to research more about Retraction & layer height.

 

[GW Staar]

Creality brand I see......which means nothing......they don't make filament they buy it.......grey might even have come from another source than the white. Maybe RoHs? some Chinese brand? But notice the print temperature suggestions is a pretty large range...195 to 220 different from the white 190 to 200. 25 degree range vs 2 degrees?

 

[Mark_Mark]

I’m getting some new Filament, these Grey $10 a Kilo rolls… SUCK!

 

[Mark_Mark]

Suggests? these have Great reviews

 

[GW Staar]

Suggests? these have Great reviews

View attachment 1193394

I have used that exact black PLA+ for this:

and this big 300mm one too ...... they changed labels and spool material to the cardboard they now use.