Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by arcticap, Mar 10, 2021.
Just read that thread , these are primitive in comparison.
Nah im sure yours work great too. What matters is that they function. Im just a little OCD and like to add a bit of "art" to my projects. As my moms marine husband (my step father) always says when working..."attention to detail!"
I just fired some today with the paper nitrated by me. 1858 Uberti 36 cal with 17 grains of Swiss 3F under 125 grain conicals. All worked fine and not a bit of paper left.
Can you describe how you did the paper, type of papers, nitrate used and procedure. I’d like to give it a try.
I don't know what the paper is it came in the kit from Guns of the West in the kit I bought. I used their glue and directions and there was a ton of paper after i shot that i had to get out of the chambers to reload. I went online search and and a video of Mark, from Eras Gone Bullet Molds was first up. I dissolved Spectracide stump remover granules in waster per his instructions and used the same paper. It's a bit of a chore after the papers dry but it sure worked. There was zero residue in the chambers of my Uberti 1858 36 after firing. I must say that I am very disappointed in this revolver though. The caps jammed it every shot. Possible Shop is out of Treso nipples so I ordered so Slix shot elswhere.
For the record, I shoot "metallic" cartridges . . . much easier!!! Lol!!!
And a darn sight faster to make.
I’ve used curling papers also. Same results.
I think it’s the glue I’m using.
I use curling paper. Actually i use both curling paper and RAW rolling paper. For an end "cap" to the base of my cartridges i use hair curling paper disks and rice paper disks..just depends on which style im working on.
Some guns are worse than others. My pair or Uberti '60 Armies have sharp step in the chamber down about where the bolt notches are. My Euroarms Rem.blasts out best.
Stump remover is potassium nitrate, which makes up the bulk of the mix to make black powder.
I edited my post on page 1 that mentioned the wrong way to make nitrocellulose glue.
Dithsoer and Ginormous described how to properly make nitrocelllose shellac or lacquer which is very much like a waterproof glue that was used to coat paper cartridges with.
"I've been making paper cartridges for years but an additional step that I take is to "paint" each finished cartridge with nitrocellulose shellac. This can be easily made by dissolving a spoonful of regular smokeless powder in several spoonfuls of acetone (fingernail polish remover). Depending on the powder used it may take more or less acetone. Once I have a thin syrup I store it in a sealed glass container (the acetone evaporates quickly). Using a small childrens paintbrush I just paint each cartridge with a thin coat of it. Not only does this ensure reliable ignition without the use of a nipple pick, the paper is completely consumed. As an added benefit it also waterproofs them. I have been doing this for years and have never had a failure to fire." --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/paper-cartridges-step-by-step-photos.144094/page-5#post-2810616
He also mentioned other details about it in other posts.
"12.5% IMR 4227 to acetone by weight NC lacquer" --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/nitrocellulose-laquer-and-cigaratte-paper-cartridges.437495/page-2#post-5463953
Keywords - Nitrocellulose glue, nitro glue
@Shotgun Dave's paper cart formers. Works great! I have yet to shoot any of them yet due to the pandemic/range closures.
Also of interest is a post indicating that:
The appendix of the Army's manual of Cavalry Tactics from 1860 contains "A Manual for Colt's Revolver" that specifies that the paper cartridge be torn open and the powder poured into the chamber before ramming.
Here's the actual commands, click on "Click to expand." --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/paper-cartridges-step-by-step-photos.144094/page-10#post-7686525
I do nitrate my curling papers with stump remover and hot water. I find it helps reduce the amount of paper left behind. I haven't had any trouble gluing them. I use Elmer's stick glue.
I use the wood and plastic form sold by capandball. It has made about a thousand so far, and does show a little wear, but not enough to cause any problems yet. I like the tapered shape as it ensures that the paper ruptures when rammed home, exposing powder directly to the flash. I use a punch to cut out hundreds of little circles from the nitrated paper, which are then glued to the base of the cartridge. This works better for me than do the twisted tails, which occasionally impede the flash and which also sometimes come open during storage/transport/handling.
I have ordered one of the Etsy/MesaWinds aluminum formers for .36 conical (thanks to #arcticap for the link) and will report back with results.
like .38Special I ordered a former from MesaWinds also but for the ROA as it uses a 457 ball.
Not related but also gave this bad boy it’s first range trip. 45Colt with TrailBoss powder but future outings will be with 2F and a 230 grain round nose bullet.
Nice. Love the Schofield. Use lots and lots of lube, especially if shooting 2F.
Depends on how much it is used, I think. As I mentioned, my wooden form is showing some wear. The hole has expanded somewhat and now requires a slight bit off additional attention to get everything just right. Not a big deal, but I wonder how it will appear in another decade or so. And even that is not a big deal, as shelling out an additional thirty bucks every ten years is not exactly the end of the world - but I do like "forever" tools, and perhaps this new aluminum version will be one.
Had not thought of that. Typically the 45 cartridges in BP are set up with a felt wad over an over powder card.
The bullets are tumbled lubed with Alox before and after sizing.
I thought 2F might be more historical and I have it on hand. I have lots more 3F however.
What’s a historical 45caliber bullet design for the Schofield.?
Separate names with a comma.