Marine_wannabe
Member
Post pics of your "tactical" Mosin Nagant. This isn't mine, this is something I found on photobucket, but this is what I'm talking about.
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Post pics of your "tactical" Mosin Nagant
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gvnwst
Member
You are really asking at the wrong site, here people are mostly purists. I would love a mosin nagant project, (synthetic stock, collapisable of course, bent handle, new barrel, suppressor, vertical grip, NV scope, and quad rail free float handguard
) but i have been trying to get reloading equip, so there isn't even enough $$$ around to get one!
) but i have been trying to get reloading equip, so there isn't even enough $$$ around to get one!I wouldn't say that we're mostly purists...
Based on the "let's see your sporters" threads, I'd say it's about an even split between "any milsurp is a priceless piece of military history", "it's your gun, do what you want" and "nice gun".
When it comes to Mosins, category (a) becomes a lot smaller. There's a bazillion of 'em, and a lot of people don't like 'em anyway.
I'd expect that 99% of what you're gonna see uses the ATI stock... it's about the only choice that doesn't cost three times what the gun did.
Me likey Mosins. Me likey sportered Mosins, especially psuedo-Scout carbines.
--Shannon
Based on the "let's see your sporters" threads, I'd say it's about an even split between "any milsurp is a priceless piece of military history", "it's your gun, do what you want" and "nice gun".
When it comes to Mosins, category (a) becomes a lot smaller. There's a bazillion of 'em, and a lot of people don't like 'em anyway.
I'd expect that 99% of what you're gonna see uses the ATI stock... it's about the only choice that doesn't cost three times what the gun did.
Me likey Mosins. Me likey sportered Mosins, especially psuedo-Scout carbines.
--Shannon
Carl N. Brown
Member
There were only 17 million Russian Mosin Nagants made, so they are not as rare and collectible as a Finnish Nagant.
I have a 91/30 with matching serial numbers, receiver marked 1926, so that one I am keeping pristine as possible (although I suspect the importer gave the receiver a flat black refinish job).
On the other hand, I have a Mosin-Nagant carbine with different serial numbers for receiver, bolt body, magazine floor, and butt plate. Headspace is OK so THAT one is fair game for tinkering (no historical value).
But there have been two rifles I owned, Spanish 1916 Mauser in .308 and a 91/38 Carcano, that I wish I had resisted the temptation to "sporterize" but those of us in the 1950s and 1960s were brainwashed to think "sporting purposes" not "curio and relic."
I have a 91/30 with matching serial numbers, receiver marked 1926, so that one I am keeping pristine as possible (although I suspect the importer gave the receiver a flat black refinish job).
On the other hand, I have a Mosin-Nagant carbine with different serial numbers for receiver, bolt body, magazine floor, and butt plate. Headspace is OK so THAT one is fair game for tinkering (no historical value).
But there have been two rifles I owned, Spanish 1916 Mauser in .308 and a 91/38 Carcano, that I wish I had resisted the temptation to "sporterize" but those of us in the 1950s and 1960s were brainwashed to think "sporting purposes" not "curio and relic."
WardenWolf
member
My 1943 M91/30 Izhevsk is all matching, near as I can tell, although I haven't had the handguards off to check the barrel. Receiver, floorplate, buttplate, and bolt match with all original numbers. Excellent bright barrel with no counterbore. The ONLY thing I've done to it, and plan to do to it, was to take the metal buttplate off and replace it with a rubber pad specifically designed for the Mosin Nagant (uses the original screws and makes no non-reversible changes whatsoever). I cannot condone anything that involves permanently altering the receiver, except to make a historical reproduction sniper.
That being said, I do kind of wish I'd picked up a Bubbafied M91/30 at Cabela's. They wanted $200 for it, but it was in excellent shape. Original stock, great barrel, but it had been tapped for a top-mounted scope and had the bolt handle cut and replaced with a tuned-down one that was bolted on. Would have been a spectacular shooter for $200.
That being said, I do kind of wish I'd picked up a Bubbafied M91/30 at Cabela's. They wanted $200 for it, but it was in excellent shape. Original stock, great barrel, but it had been tapped for a top-mounted scope and had the bolt handle cut and replaced with a tuned-down one that was bolted on. Would have been a spectacular shooter for $200.
jpwilly
Member
This one too:
(1946 M44 minus front sight forward with AK 74 7.62 brake, ATI stock Krylon Tan paint, Scout scope mount, NcStar 2-7x32mm IR scope, adjustable trigger. 3 MOA accurate with surplus ammo and a huge hit on the range due to the howitzer like muzzle blast!)
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gvnwst
Member
I like the second one! What kind of scope is that? Cleanly done.
Marine_wannabe
Member
Thats what I'm talking about. Nicely done jpwilly
BobOfTheFuture
Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2008
- Messages
- 142
...
TIMC- Whats written under the bolt on yours?
My kinda sorta tactical Mosin, not quite done yet-
TIMC- Whats written under the bolt on yours?
My kinda sorta tactical Mosin, not quite done yet-
trekgod3
Member
jpwilly- How did you get the fron sight/bayo sleeve off? Also, how difficult is it to attatch the AK muzzle break? I want do to the same setup on my M44.
Funderb
Member
I hope it is written in crayon.
I wish i had pics, I put my 91/30 in an ati stock and got a spare sight leaf to make into a peep style sight.
It actually shoots amazingly, considering my lacks.
now if it weren't so darn hard to clean that non chromed long barrel.
I wish i had pics, I put my 91/30 in an ati stock and got a spare sight leaf to make into a peep style sight.
It actually shoots amazingly, considering my lacks.
now if it weren't so darn hard to clean that non chromed long barrel.
KSCCHTrainer
Member
To get the front sight/bayo lugs off isn't too difficult. Safety disclaimer - make sure the rifle is unloaded. Remove the stock so you don't ding it up and remove the bayonet from the mount.
There are two pins in the assembly. One runs vertically through the bayonet lugs and the other horizontally just below and slightly to the rear of the front sight hood.
These need to be driven out with the proper sized pin punch. Do this carefully so you can salvage parts if you want to put things back later.
Once the pins are out, using a shot filled, dead-blow mallet that's plastic covered so it won't mar the surfaces, place the muzzle on a block of hardwood to keep from buggering up the crown and using the dead-blow mallet, drive the bayonet lug/front sight assembly off toward the muzzle end of the barrel. Hit the rear of the bayonet lugs with the mallet. The barrel is very slightly tapered, and once you get the assembly loose, it will be easy to get it to come completely off the barrel with a few lighter taps. (You will most likely have to really hit it hard a few times to get it moving.)
The barrel under where the assembly was will most likely still be unblued, so you might want to blue it to match the rest of the barrel - it will certainly look a lot better.
Pix are of my "scout rifle" after removing the assembly and also of the removed assembly showing where the pins are.
I have since cut the front sight assembly down a bit, removing the bayonet lugs. I cut it about 3/4" behind the front sight and re-installed just that part. I was originally going to leave it off, but as someone mentioned in another thread, a true "scout rifle" has provisions for back up iron sights. He made an extremely low profile bolt handle and installed a Lyman peep sight on the rear of the receiver. I plan on duplicating this so if the scope (BSA 3-7 X 32) fails, I'll at least have a quickly available backup. With the front sight re-installed, this also facilitates the installation of one of those AK-style, clamp on muzzle brakes that locks around the front sight to keep it on the rifle if I decide to do that. I put one of Tickbite Supply's rubber butt pads on it and so far, even with heavy ball ammo, recoil is very manageable, so I may not bother with the muzzle brake as it would channel the fireball upward and rearward a bit. Might smoke up the scope.
There are two pins in the assembly. One runs vertically through the bayonet lugs and the other horizontally just below and slightly to the rear of the front sight hood.
These need to be driven out with the proper sized pin punch. Do this carefully so you can salvage parts if you want to put things back later.
Once the pins are out, using a shot filled, dead-blow mallet that's plastic covered so it won't mar the surfaces, place the muzzle on a block of hardwood to keep from buggering up the crown and using the dead-blow mallet, drive the bayonet lug/front sight assembly off toward the muzzle end of the barrel. Hit the rear of the bayonet lugs with the mallet. The barrel is very slightly tapered, and once you get the assembly loose, it will be easy to get it to come completely off the barrel with a few lighter taps. (You will most likely have to really hit it hard a few times to get it moving.)
The barrel under where the assembly was will most likely still be unblued, so you might want to blue it to match the rest of the barrel - it will certainly look a lot better.
Pix are of my "scout rifle" after removing the assembly and also of the removed assembly showing where the pins are.
I have since cut the front sight assembly down a bit, removing the bayonet lugs. I cut it about 3/4" behind the front sight and re-installed just that part. I was originally going to leave it off, but as someone mentioned in another thread, a true "scout rifle" has provisions for back up iron sights. He made an extremely low profile bolt handle and installed a Lyman peep sight on the rear of the receiver. I plan on duplicating this so if the scope (BSA 3-7 X 32) fails, I'll at least have a quickly available backup. With the front sight re-installed, this also facilitates the installation of one of those AK-style, clamp on muzzle brakes that locks around the front sight to keep it on the rifle if I decide to do that. I put one of Tickbite Supply's rubber butt pads on it and so far, even with heavy ball ammo, recoil is very manageable, so I may not bother with the muzzle brake as it would channel the fireball upward and rearward a bit. Might smoke up the scope.
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trekgod3
Member
Thanks!
BobOfTheFuture
Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2008
- Messages
- 142
Cool, i like the text on the gun
JP, that break help at all? can you tell?
JP, that break help at all? can you tell?
The Swede
Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZJZ...al&channel=s&hl=en&q=&feature=player_embedded
For sure, not mine. I would take that one in post #1 though.
For sure, not mine. I would take that one in post #1 though.
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mordechaianiliewicz
Member
My favs are the ones which are the reproductions with factory bent bolts.
helz_mcfugly
Member
HAHA, that thing in post 21 is bubbafied to the max. crazy crazy
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