cobalt,
hinz,
Im here,
just been modificating other things......
mountain bike stuff and sprint car stuff
checked in a few times to see what you guys have come up with..... but haven't had time to respond
so i wanted to bring a couple things up,
my original gun i believe I got it when I was 8 or 10 or 12,
so the gun would be 1998-2002.... so if you do the math on that im only 26.... not quite old by most standards, but i usually feel pretty old, got a bad shoulder and knee from bmx, mountain biking, and motocross.
ok back to the gun,
hinz,
mine did not come with the bear trap, so somewhere in there say 2000 these guns didn't have bear traps yet.
when i ordered a new main barrel (because i wanted the sealhead for my original gun)
1. i noticed the trigger in my non beartrap gun is supported on both sides by sheet metal
on the bear trap gun the sheet metal on the left side is removed because the bear trap mechanism occupies the space,
I feel like you might want the older main barrel with both sides of the trigger covered for monster preload
also my gun came with a seamed barrel
, i have been meaning to put the barrel that came with the new MB in my old gun, but now i need a 499 barrel!
2. EXCELENT observation on correcting the angle the spring holder contacts the preload spacer!! I love it, i knew the spring holder wasn't straight but i didn't even think to mill an angled slot in my delrin spacer. Ill be doing that shortly after i get some other mill work out of the way
3. I also thought about changing barrels... even looked for a high end barrel, but found they were all rifled pellet gun stuff and i deemed it unnecessary, but now that you have done it, I find it absolutely Necessary .... Were you able to buy this barrel separately from daisy??
Now changing gears here,
when i originally installed the custom air tube i noticed the gun cocked with more friction
SO, thats why i took apart the abutment and the did the heated thing with the seal
(if anyone does the heated thing, dont go too far, only a little heat on the tip, and push the rod all the way thorugh so the tail end of the rod cools the seal, dont pull it back out past the hot spot! if you go too far on the heat and or give her the old in out...... you may end up pulling some plastic strings, and leaving a glob of plastic on your rod and a big ol frown! ask me how i know)
then i filed down the abutment pin and detailed the barrel, made sure my air tube easily slid in and out of the barrel (i had been concerned i tweaked the air tube during mfg)
so i know i was theoretically back down to stock friction levels on the big air tube......
but i found something really interesting the other day, haven't investigated it yet
I was shooting the gun, and the plastic barrel cap flew out???? don't know why, isn't broken or anything.
heres the interesting part.
when the gun is not cocked the barrel is thrust upwards in the main barrel hard, almost touching the top of the mb, and if you try to wiggle it or move it towards center its extremely rigid and wants to stay up there
when cocked, the barrel floats around easily
could be related to hinz findings on the angle the spring pin imparts, but im thinking that would push the barrel down not up, and likely not this much
i need to get to the bottom of this, i know its causing friction and robbing FPS
so im curious if any of you can take your end caps off and see if your barrel stays centered or is binding when uncocked and then relaxing when cocked.