ackattack
Member
Hello to all, bought many tins of Rem. caps #10 for my Rem. 1858 with Treso's on, they fit great but the cap is wedged between the cylinder, so it will bind, after the shot, any insight?
Rem. #10 cap problem
- Thread starter ackattack
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Das Jaeger
member
If
I am understading you right, which I may not be, after your shot ,some of your caps are getting lodged in between frame and cylinder ?
If so, your hammer face is completely demollishing the cap, meaning its too long for the Tresos .
Das Jaeger
I am understading you right, which I may not be, after your shot ,some of your caps are getting lodged in between frame and cylinder ?
If so, your hammer face is completely demollishing the cap, meaning its too long for the Tresos .
Das Jaeger
I don't see how the hammer face demolishing the cap is characteristic of the caps being too long for the nipple. The physics of that escape me. Generally, caps that are too long fail to seat on the nipple face and thus fail to fire on the first hammer strike, but do fire on the second strike, after they've been driven onto the nipple face. I didn't see that in your description.
Treso nipples are allegedly made for No. 11 caps, although the brand isn't specified, and the brand matters:
If Das Jaeger is correct, changing to Remington No. 11's should solve the problem. It's worth a try. However, split caps are pretty much ubiquitous, and no corrective measure is 100% effective. My suggestion would be to clear the cap fragments by rolling the gun to the right and simultaneously raising the muzzle slightly while cocking the gun for the next shot; this will help the cap fragments fall free as the fired chamber passes the frame opening on the right side of the gun. This motion, known as 'the gunfighter's flip' takes a bit of practice to get right. Do it slowly and carefully the first few times, until you feel comfortable doing it.
Treso nipples are allegedly made for No. 11 caps, although the brand isn't specified, and the brand matters:
If Das Jaeger is correct, changing to Remington No. 11's should solve the problem. It's worth a try. However, split caps are pretty much ubiquitous, and no corrective measure is 100% effective. My suggestion would be to clear the cap fragments by rolling the gun to the right and simultaneously raising the muzzle slightly while cocking the gun for the next shot; this will help the cap fragments fall free as the fired chamber passes the frame opening on the right side of the gun. This motion, known as 'the gunfighter's flip' takes a bit of practice to get right. Do it slowly and carefully the first few times, until you feel comfortable doing it.
Das Jaeger
member
Umm no
that aint what I meant, I was saying the HAMEER face is too long for Treso nipples, its smashing the caps . It should barely hit the caps if it is right as rain .
Das Jaeger
that aint what I meant, I was saying the HAMEER face is too long for Treso nipples, its smashing the caps . It should barely hit the caps if it is right as rain .
Das Jaeger
BCRider
Member
But the sides of the caps blow out and look like flower petals anyway, don't they? Once that happens it really doesn't matter about how the hammer hit the cap I would think. Or is it my stock nipples and 30 grain charges doing that for me? 
Wow, Mykeal, that chart is illuminating! Some brands of #10 have a larger diameter than some #11's? Is my reading correct?
So suppose I have a Pietta 1858 Remington with factory nipples on it, what's the correct cap. (Have one on order as we speak. But have a digital copy of the manual... don't see a cap size stated.) Have any idea?
Would hate to spring for 1000 caps of the wrong size. But seems all the online dealers only deal in 1000 cap lots. :-( Otherwise I'd just order a tin of each brand and size and go through the usual "working up a load" I'd do for centerfire.
So suppose I have a Pietta 1858 Remington with factory nipples on it, what's the correct cap. (Have one on order as we speak. But have a digital copy of the manual... don't see a cap size stated.) Have any idea?
Would hate to spring for 1000 caps of the wrong size. But seems all the online dealers only deal in 1000 cap lots. :-( Otherwise I'd just order a tin of each brand and size and go through the usual "working up a load" I'd do for centerfire.
Das Jaeger
member
Whichever one fits better
is the right one, and you WONT know till you get the caps on the gun . Sorry, but thats the truth . I use 11's on everything , I squeeze fit anyway .
Das Jaeger
is the right one, and you WONT know till you get the caps on the gun . Sorry, but thats the truth . I use 11's on everything , I squeeze fit anyway .
Das Jaeger
peacemaker45
Member
On a properly set up percussion revolver, the hammer should not actually contact the nipple, but merely the cap. Cap jams and things get a lot worse when the nipple acts as an anvil for the hammer to shatter caps on.
With a colt variant, you can remove the barrel, and with the trigger pulled, push the hammer forward. if that moves the cylinder forward, then the hammer is contacting the nipple. File the face of the hammer just until it no longer makes contact. (a swipe or two at a time, no more.) Not quite sure what the procedure for remmies would be.
~~~MAt
With a colt variant, you can remove the barrel, and with the trigger pulled, push the hammer forward. if that moves the cylinder forward, then the hammer is contacting the nipple. File the face of the hammer just until it no longer makes contact. (a swipe or two at a time, no more.) Not quite sure what the procedure for remmies would be.
~~~MAt
AussieTH
Member
On the basis of a lot of sane advice given recently on these threads - could I suggest that it may be worth checking that the cylinder is in correct fore and aft alignment?
As observed above, there is no standard for cap dimensions. Further, you don't get three decimal place precision for 4 cents apiece, so expecting the numbers in that chart to be the same from batch to batch even within a given brand is unfortunately a bit naive. What that means, of course, is that finding a cap that fits any given set of nipples is unpredictable, and that once you've found one you can't count on it being the same for the next batch you buy. Sad but true.
Those numbers are averages of at least 20 different samples of each brand & size. The opening diameter numbers are very difficult to make and are no better than about +/-0.002" to perhaps even +/- 0.004" in precision.
Those numbers are averages of at least 20 different samples of each brand & size. The opening diameter numbers are very difficult to make and are no better than about +/-0.002" to perhaps even +/- 0.004" in precision.
ackattack
Member
Thanks!
Well that is not good news. I tried the flip, but the caps are tight. Sometimes I have to pry them out. Have 3 cylinders, to make it more difficult to figure. But will try, have some CCI 11# caps. Thanks!
Well that is not good news. I tried the flip, but the caps are tight. Sometimes I have to pry them out. Have 3 cylinders, to make it more difficult to figure. But will try, have some CCI 11# caps. Thanks!
madcratebuilder
Member
Caps seem to be a problem at one time or another on most revolvers. I think I have had a cap jam on every one I own at least once. Putting Treso nipples on my brace is out of the question, it would cost over 1300 bucks! I make sure I have hammer to nipple clearance. That the taper of the nipple allows the cap to seat completely, and I have several brands of both 10's and 11's in my box.
peacemaker45
Member
Umm, brace means pair. As such, tresos for a pair shouldn't cost more than about $30. Where's this $1300 stuff coming from?
~~~Mat
~~~Mat
BCRider
Member
I think he means "a lot of guns"
All this reading on the issues is helping me understand why one of the CAS guys smiled and said "yes, we've all had a go at them at one time or other" when I asked if the cartridge guys also shoot cap and ball. I remember thinking that it was a knowing and sympathetic smile similar to a parent to a rambunctious child or a professor to a new enthusiastic student........
All this reading on the issues is helping me understand why one of the CAS guys smiled and said "yes, we've all had a go at them at one time or other" when I asked if the cartridge guys also shoot cap and ball. I remember thinking that it was a knowing and sympathetic smile similar to a parent to a rambunctious child or a professor to a new enthusiastic student........
I can't fire CCI #10's on my Uberti 1858. The hammer strikes the cap but not hard enough for it to fire. In my Uberti 1860 Army,2nd and 3rd model Dragoon's, Walker and 1849 Pocket Colt, the CCI caps hit the back-plate and stop the cylinder from rotating.
I use #10 Remington's on all of these pistols with no problems.
I use #10 Remington's on all of these pistols with no problems.
Ratdog68
Member
However... only the strong shall survive. The rest give up and shoot cartridge only.I think he means "a lot of guns"
All this reading on the issues is helping me understand why one of the CAS guys smiled and said "yes, we've all had a go at them at one time or other" when I asked if the cartridge guys also shoot cap and ball. I remember thinking that it was a knowing and sympathetic smile similar to a parent to a rambunctious child or a professor to a new enthusiastic student........
madcratebuilder
Member
Actually it means two of a kind. My bad for using it to describe a group (34) of revolvers.
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