Savage 24v series c .222 over 20 G

[Australian410hunter]

I guess it depends. I have a Savage 24 .22/.410, and it is a FANTASTIC gun to teach kids with. Accurate with the open sight .22, HEAVY trigger, almost no recoil. I've taken squirrels and rabbits with it. Don't know how it is regulated, but it hasn't been noticeable with any target I've engaged. I'm not sure I have a use for a 2400, but I'm hanging on to my 24.

I also have a Savage 24 Series S .22/.410 Had to shim the shotgun barrel a smidge, however it now shoots beautifully with shot 50/50 to .22lr (slugs go high, probably due to tight choke). I stoned the trigger, and it is now quite good (there are instructions online how to do it). That made it as a combination gun! Mine was good with open sights, but I ended up fitting a low power variable, that made it even better with the .22lr, and is still nice as a shotgun (cannot think what the sight was called, but it is a 1-4magnifivation with a recticle that works for shotgun, too).

 

[Australian410hunter]

Since this began I acquired a 24C "Campers Companion". Here it is as found along with the 24V.
View attachment 1073204 View attachment 1073205 .

Yours is in much nicer condition than mine was originally, when I found it.
How is it for regulation? The 24C is a cylinder bore, good for solids.

 

[Australian410hunter]

Since this began I acquired a 24C "Campers Companion". Here it is as found along with the 24V.
View attachment 1073204 View attachment 1073205 .

I will assume the wedge is missing from the sight, for adjustment. They fly off when you shoot the 20G!

 

[Australian410hunter]

Sorry, missed your quote.
The noise, and perceived recoil, from the 20g solids is something (must be getting soft), however scope doesn't come back at you, and cause a problem.
The scope is only as far back as the barrel release, and that doesn't come near my face, my hands there.

I had to adjust it originally because it WAS too far back.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I have a 24V .30WCF over 20 gauge that I never could get good accuracy out of, and of course could never get the barrels regulated. So I decided to make a "mountain survival" carbine out of it. I cut the rifle barrel to 19.5", and the shot barrel to 18.75". As there seemed to be a good bit of pressure between the muzzles of the barrels I attempted to bore out the portion of the front band that the rifle barrel went through, but it "crumbled". What the heck is it made of?? So what I did then was make it into kind of a "cradle" with the rifle barrel lightly resting on it.

That helped with regulation, brought the slugs up quite a bit, but slugs still print low, so I put a flip-up-flip-down rear sight on it. That way, with the sight up, it's sighted for the rifle barrel, flip down and hold the front sight all the way up, and two little screws on the sight for windage, she's only a hair low at 25 yards, with windage right on. My main purpose for the shot barrel is for close in defense against big critters that would scratch or bite me. No plans to shoot slugs over 25-30 yards. In the future, I may dove-tail in another flip-up and get her sighted with slugs to 50 yards.

Oddly enough, with bird shot loads the pattern is "on", maybe a hair low, but nothing a grouse or rabbit will notice. Even with the wide open sawed off shot barrel, it throws a nice 25 yard pattern without any holes in it. Perfectly fine for the deep woods. The accuracy of the rifle barrel is nothing to brag about, but she'll bag a deer out to 100 yards in case I were to get that hungry in a survival situation. It's nice and light and "handy", easy to carry, and between slugs, rifle loads, light rifle loads, 20gauge slugs and shot loads, she covers a lot of bases. I usually pair it up with a light .22LR pistol.

Just noticed I posted about this gun before. Oh well. Have done some upgrades to the sights since then. (sights and minimum pressure between barrels) And, after giving the action a good cleaning it does not break open on firing with the .30-30 barrel.

 

[Bill M.]

I had a .222 Mag under a 20 gauge for a number of years. It shot pretty good groups at 100 yards. Issues were that the scope would move when I shot the shotgun barrel with the 3" shells. Another issue that caused me to get rid of it was legality. I hunted mostly on wildlife management areas and public hunting and the gun seemed to be illegal most of the time. Fun guns but no real uses for me that a rifle and a shotgun separate would not do a whole lot better.

 

[Australian410hunter]

PS remember the movement of the shotgun barrel only has to be VERY small, because it is the impact of the adjust at 25 - 30 yards/metres that you are looking for (e.g. I need to move the 24C shotgun impact 1.5 inches! at 30m)

Ok My Savage 24C Series P, and regulating the barrels... had all sorts of plans for regulating the barrels, noted most people find slugs print lower than the .22lr (or in my case, now, .22wmr). Anyway, took the barrel band off the end of the barrel, and noted that, with the screw in, the thread was proud, and actually seperating the barrels, inside the bands.
Took a file to it, and removed most of the thread from that area of the screw that protrudes, in the gap between barrels, when the barrels are clamped.
Now just need the rain to stop so I can test shoot it.
Given how little I needed to bring the barrel up, to have them together at 50m, I suspect this will be sufficient!
Will let you know when rain stops!!

 

[Australian410hunter]

86mm yesterday, 88mm today, a few more days rain predicted... not getting out to test the theory any time soon!!

 

[Australian410hunter]

Just an update, regulating the barrels of a Savage 24C, Series P.
1. Tried just thinning down the center section of the joining screw (the thread was proud in the joint. Made no difference to point of impact).
2. Tried easing the top of the shotgun section of the barrel joiner with a round file (soft metal), and then adding a shim underneath (made tight fit, result snapped joining screw I had weakened). Made no difference to point of impact.
3. Going to visit my old man (most pedantic machinist/engineer I know, who makes scale steam trains you can ride on), and see if we cannot make a slightly adjusted front joiner, to move POI together. Will also be an opportunity to fit a decent, adjustable, front sight (something that is needed).
All this made absolutely no difference to the accuracy of the .22M barrel (I had to adjust sights back on, but it still shoots beautifully). Received complaint from wife about noise of 20G solids (short barrel).
Also setting up to test buffered No.3 Buck, and No.6 field loads, to see if they can be tightened up.

 

[Australian410hunter]

Thinking about regulating the 24C barrels, the .22m barrel is light, and whippy, what I am really trying to do is adjust it onto the shotgun barrel, I was actually thinking the other way, adjust the shotgun onto the rifle.
With the front joiner off there is a lot of movement available.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

Just an update, regulating the barrels of a Savage 24C, Series P.
1. Tried just thinning down the center section of the joining screw (the thread was proud in the joint. Made no difference to point of impact).
2. Tried easing the top of the shotgun section of the barrel joiner with a round file (soft metal), and then adding a shim underneath (made tight fit, result snapped joining screw I had weakened). Made no difference to point of impact.
3. Going to visit my old man (most pedantic machinist/engineer I know, who makes scale steam trains you can ride on), and see if we cannot make a slightly adjusted front joiner, to move POI together. Will also be an opportunity to fit a decent, adjustable, front sight (something that is needed).
All this made absolutely no difference to the accuracy of the .22M barrel (I had to adjust sights back on, but it still shoots beautifully). Received complaint from wife about noise of 20G solids (short barrel).
Also setting up to test buffered No.3 Buck, and No.6 field loads, to see if they can be tightened up.

So why not just install two flip-up-flip-down rear sights? Sight in one for the rifle, the other for the shotgun tube?

 

[Australian410hunter]

So why not just install two flip-up-flip-down rear sights? Sight in one for the rifle, the other for the shotgun tube?

Because I am using a low power scope, plus I am curious if I can get them to regulate effectively. From readings, you have to move a barrel about 1 thou, when zeroing at 65 yards, to move the MPI one inch. I will get there, eventually (I have in mind an answer, which I am yet to test).
And yes, two flip up sights is also a good option.
My eyes and I live in a strange world, as we get older. It depends how far away the rear sight is, how well I can use the sighting system. I can still shoot using standard .303 III* v and post sights, or the bright sights on my Model .410 Marlin lever, but not some of the closer sights on my .22's!!
Plus, if I can do it right, all those other people with a Savage 24 Series P, or similar, will be able to regulate their barrels the same!
I regulated a series S by shimming the .410 barrel (noted above). It's the challenge, I guess. I like them to work, as designed.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

okay, thought you were working with iron sights. You mentioned an adjustable front sight. Well, you have your work cut out for you! But I too enjoy challenges like that.

 

[FL-NC]

I would love to have one of these contraptions 223 over 20 gauge with screw in chokes for turkey hunting private land in Fl. Legal to take turkeys here on private land with a rifle.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I would love to have one of these contraptions 223 over 20 gauge with screw in chokes for turkey hunting private land in Fl. Legal to take turkeys here on private land with a rifle.

Dang! I wish Washington State would open turkey up to small caliber Muzzle loaders. But them thar contraptions are quite talented, My .30WCF over 20 makes for a great backwoods-wilderness survival rifle. With 3" 20 gauge Brenekke slugs she packs a punch at close range, with a quick second punch with the .30-30, and then shot loads for small game. Then if one is really hungry the .30 barrel will take just about any big game. Yeah, a screw in choke(s) would really be icing on the cake!

 

[Carl N. Brown]

I have not attempted to regulate my Savage 24 .30-30 over 12 gauge.
Target with an IC choke tube, and I believe the sugs were Win SuperX foster-type.
With full choke tube, patterns nice for turkey shoots.

 

[Australian410hunter]

I have not attempted to regulate my Savage 24 .30-30 over 12 gauge.
Target with an IC choke tube, and I believe the sugs were Win SuperX foster-type.
With full choke tube, patterns nice for turkey shoots.

Well, you have to be happy with that! The very early Savage 24's with the full length barrel joint, and the very late ones with the big block barrel base, seem the most regulated. I was lucky my .22lr/.410 regulated with little work. I WILL get this 24C Series P to regulate to same MPI at 50m yet!!!

 

[Australian410hunter]

okay, thought you were working with iron sights. You mentioned an adjustable front sight. Well, you have your work cut out for you! But I too enjoy challenges like that.

I have an idea that, if I get a block, drill a light interference fit for the .22lr barrel, and place two small grub screws (one each side) to clamp to barrel, then mill the 20G barrel slot, 10 thou offset to centre line (to move MPI across), and go close to .22lr barrel (about half the screw up, on current front joint fitting, as the depth gauge), with a large grub screw set into bottom of block for vertical adjustment, then add a front sight of appropriate height to top (back up sights), I SHOULD be able to regulate barrels effectively.
That is the plan!

 

[Ugly Sauce]

It COULD work!

 

[DM~]

Valmet has done all the work for you! Just look at how they do it and copy it.

It works perfectly, I can regulate the bbls to shoot wherever I want with any load..

DM

 

[Australian410hunter]

I have an idea that, if I get a block, drill a light interference fit for the .22lr barrel, and place two small grub screws (one each side) to clamp to barrel, then mill the 20G barrel slot, 10 thou offset to centre line (to move MPI across), and go close to .22lr barrel (about half the screw up, on current front joint fitting, as the depth gauge), with a large grub screw set into bottom of block for vertical adjustment, then add a front sight of appropriate height to top (back up sights), I SHOULD be able to regulate barrels effectively.
That is the plan!

Righto, after much mucking about, knocked together a front sight/adjustable for elevation and indexation of barrels, 24C (P series).
The original plastic front piece that joined the barrels, and held the front sight was destroyed, experimenting.
The combination rifle now has the sights for a 10/22 carbine (drift adjustable front and rear sights).
The 20g barrel can be rotated, and raised using a 12mm grub screw, against the .22M barrel (rechambered from .22lr).
The 4mm grub screws lock the .22 barrel.
Literally just finished this (it is a back of the cupboard job, that I got to).
I have also taken the opportunity to once again take the trigger apart, and hone it a bit more, it is now 'nice'.

The surprising thing is that a little bit of extra weight on the end of the barrel actually makes it 'feel' better, and you get a good sight picture with the better sights.
Weather permitting, test fire, and adjust, before locking screws, tomorrow.

 

[Australian410hunter]

Sorry about the old mat background in the workshop office.

 

[Australian410hunter]

It COULD work!

It came together, just posted a quick look. Hopefully zero tomorrow.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

Right on, that's funny, I just got my 24V out a couple of days ago to do some brain-storming on the front of the gun. not to really regulate the barrels, but to try and get more accuracy out of the rifle barrel.

 

[Patocazador]

I had a 24V in .222/20 gauge about 50 years ago. I thought it would solve the dilemma of not having the right gun at the right time. I shot squirrels with the 20 ga. barrel but the .222 barrel would wander when shooting more than once. Plus the .222 wasn't adequate for deer or much else.
I can't remember if I gave it away or traded it but I haven't missed it since. However, if the top barrel were an actual deer cartridge, I would probably still have it.

At the time the .222 was the most accurate cartridge but that has changed several times since. The solution would have been to rechamber it to .223 but that's water under the bridge.