Steel case .223's

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spend the extra $70 bucks a case and get lake city xm193....it's american made (read american jobs) you wont even have to worry about your rifle functioning and even if you cant tell the difference between it and the steel case rounds when it comes to cycling the rifle you'll most assuredly get higher velocities.
 
spend the extra $70 bucks a case and get lake city xm193
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If it were only $70 difference, I'd be buying LC. It's closer to $200. WPA 55 gr. is $250 shipped from Ammoman.com. I haven't seen LC cheaper than $400 + shipping (another $30 or so).

I handload, so it would be worth it at $70 difference. But at $180 difference, I can buy a case of Wolf and 2,000 rounds of once-fired 5.56 brass for the same price as a case of LC ammo.
 
i was unaware that the prices had risen so much.... you might consider privi partizan m193. it's brass cased,serbian made and is loaded to nato specs with a crimped primer. you can buy 1,000 round lots on gunbroker right now for $299.00
 
Just remember rule #4 of AR-15 ownership -

If it doesn't like steel cased ammo, ALWAYS blame the ammo, not the gun.
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Naw, blame the extractor, the only two ARs I've seen that wouldn't shoot steel cased ammo had out of spec extractors. One the gap was cut too narrow, it worked with brass cased ammo but not steel cased. The other was too thick in the front and wouldn't fully fit in the extraction groove -- I didn't bother trying brass cased ammo, I simply replaced it.

I've pretty much shot nothing but steel cased ammo (other than my reloads) the past 10 years. The only AR extractors I've broken were in a 7.62x25 which only has brass cased ammo available, and in 7.62x39 using steel cased. Like I always say: if you've never broken a gun, you just haven't been shooting enough!
 
If it is a brand new rifle, and a carbine, I'd recommend making your first 300 or so rounds good quality brass (M193/m855).

I have seen a lot of riflemen have issues with steel case ammo making the rifle short stroke- I suspect the steel cased is a little on the light side, load-wise, and it definitely doesn't seal the chamber as well, both of which will result in lower bore pressures, that combined with a new, stiff rifle, leads to issues.

Once it's broken in a bit, it *should* handle steel case just fine.
 
I shoot more wolf through my Noveske than anything else. I have never had a hiccup with it. Accuracy is acceptable. Its not what I would use for percision work but honestly it likely is not the limiting factor when I am shooting with a 4 MOA aimpoint or irons from field positions. As others have said the price difference adds up quickly if one shoots with any kind of regularity. I've had no signs of accelerated wear through several cases. If I did the savings would more than pay for it.

An AR that wont shoot steel case is an AR that has problems.
 
I can't stand ammo snobs. If it shoots safely and accurately, I'll use it. Steel case satisfies both of us.

Of course some guns with tighter chambers won't extract the steel cases, and then you are justified in using brass. But for plinking I don't see the point in paying more than you have to for bullets.
 
I shoot both brass and steel without a hitch. The problem most people might have is using both brass and steel at the same time. Since steel does not expand as much there is more blowback around the cartridge which get the chamber dirty. When you mix brass the brass expands and since the chamber is already fouled with grit from steel cartridges the brass cartridge may get stuck, causing ejection problems. Other than that if shooting steel that day just shoot steel, if shooting brass first than you can shoot steel afterwards but not the other way around. This is based on personal experience and on my RRA and my brothers bushmasters.
 
Yep, been using Prvi m193 and have had no issues with it. Good stuff in my book, especially at 30¢/rnd. I am not a precision shooter and do not shoot posted up on a bench all day, just too boring for me, so the "inferior" rounds don't bother me.

Just ordered some 162gr Brown Bear from JG Sales and for 1,000 rounds at $240 shipped, do the math... I'll try that! It should be here next week and hope to go shoot it in the near future. Most ranges don't allow bi metal in Socal, so off to the desert. Have never shot steel in my AR, a home build with a LAR Grizzly OPS 4 right-sided charging upper and a chrome lined 1:7 twist YHM barrel. Will report back.
 
I really don't know about the whole "mixing brass and steel" theory. If you follow that logic, what you are ultimately saying is that a dirty chamber will, at some point, stop an AR from running properly.

Chambers do get dirty, even when you shoot brass cased ammo exclusively.

My AR had just over 6K rounds through it, before I last cleaned it. I mixed steel, new brass and reloads and it ran without a hitch.
 
Just make sure your rifle will shoot the steel case before commiting to an entire case.
Some ARs will, others won't.
 
Whats the point of saving money on ammo just to spend it on replacement parts. my WOA spr barrel that shoots 1/4 MOA will never see steel ammo. i would rather spend a little extra on better ammo and have cases to sell or reload. Even cheap guns dont deserve crap ammo. Except AK's. There not worth anything anyways...
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I've personally never came across any off the shelf ammo that shot 1/4 MOA out of one of my rifles, be it brass or steel cased ammo.

Are you getting 1/4 MOA with factory loads?
 
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