Summer Pocket Carry Cautionary Tale

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Can you elaborate on the "Eezox"??
Click to expand...
Read this test and see what you think.
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
I've been using it for about five years now. It has two downsides:
1. It can be hard to find.
2. It can be a bit pricey (especially if you have to pay shipping).

The other one was posted previously, but is validation of the one I posted.
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

I buy enough to last me a year or two at a time, and it's all good.
We can argue all day long about how good a "cleaner" and "lubricant" Eezox is, but if corrosion is your issue, I submit that as a "protectant" it has no equal.
 
I had a blued gun I carried iwb that got rusted once. I live in Florida. I think some of us have corrosive sweat for sure. My blued P3AT would hiccup occasionally when dry or pocket lint filled. Switched to a hard chromed P32 and rust issues as well as any reliability issues went away. In fact it has been three months since I have cleaned or lubed it short of blowing it out with canned air. Friday, I will pull it out, shoot my carry mag, plus a full box of 50. If it performs flawlessly as I expect it will, it will be the third time it has passed this test and I will feel almost as confident with it as one of my jframes. Almost. ;)

The hard chrome reduces friction allowing smoother cycling and helps with the rust issue. I highly recommend that finish, especially in these little pocket rockets. Short of doing that send it off to Jack F. For nickel plating or another similar shop that will do a quality job at a good price.
 
I always recommend when someone asks about a great pocket carry that they instead carry IWB. With a sweat guard if possible. I hate carrying a spare mag in my pocket during the summer, as the bullets have changed color.

If one is comfortable and set on a small "pocket" pistol, carry IWB the same weapon. With the size, you have about no chance of printing, and it's easier and quicker to draw.

GCBurner, did you clear out the rust? Is it still an issue? Does the gun now function?
 
Yo Mama said:
I always recommend when someone asks about a great pocket carry that they instead carry IWB. With a sweat guard if possible. I hate carrying a spare mag in my pocket during the summer, as the bullets have changed color.

If one is comfortable and set on a small "pocket" pistol, carry IWB the same weapon. With the size, you have about no chance of printing, and it's easier and quicker to draw.

GCBurner, did you clear out the rust? Is it still an issue? Does the gun now function?
Click to expand...
I polished off all the rust, everywhere, broke it down completely, removing the extractor, firing pin, and firing pin spring to clean inside the slide openings and underneath the extractor spring. I cleaned the chamber and slide face with brushes and CLP, and made sure everything had a coating of CLP before it was reassembled.

After shooting the 40-round string the other day, I just did the normal cleaning with CLP, and took it out for another session with some Remington factory .380s this evening. No misfires, and no failures to feed or eject. So far, so good. I've never used Eezox, but Breakfree CLP seems to be pretty close in the corrosion prevention test. I also washed & dried my nylon pocket holster, just to get out any salt that might have built up inside from carrying in sweaty jeans and shorts. From here on, I definitely won't be letting it go 2 weeks of pocket carry without at least giving it a close inspection, and a wipedown with CLP. As long as it's clean and lubed, it shoots fine.
 
Good to hear it's back in action. Try to look into IWB holsters for that puppy, you may be surprised how comfortable it is. Plus you can fit other stuff into that free pocket. :)

I love CLP, never used Eezox, but also saw how comparible they were.

Good luck to you buddy.
 
I've carried an LCP and PM9 often with pocket carry in the Southern MS heat and humidity and never had the insides rust. I do re-lube my guns every month if I haven't shot them. The LCP started getting a tiny bit of rust on the outside before I started wiping it down after every time I carried it. I use Breakfree CLP on my guns. After leaving CLP on that spot for a day it disappeared.

Although I'm risking getting flamed by saying this, Kel-Tec guns seem more rust prone than others.
 
Ben86 said:
I've carried an LCP and PM9 often with pocket carry in the Southern MS heat and humidity and never had the insides rust. I do re-lube my guns every month if I haven't shot them. The LCP started getting a tiny bit of rust on the outside before I started wiping it down after every time I carried it. I use Breakfree CLP on my guns. After leaving CLP on that spot for a day it disappeared.

Although I'm risking getting flamed by saying this, Kel-Tec guns seem more rust prone than others.
Click to expand...
I don't know that they're any more rust prone than any other blued steel handgun under similar conditions, but if I had to buy another one, I'd probably go for the hard chrome finish, rather than the Parkerized or blued. The P32 or P3AT would be real winners if they came in stainless steel, or a Glock style Tennifer finish; I've never seen a speck of rust on my Glock, and I don't clean it nearly as meticulously as the Kel-Tek. Of course, I don't carry the Glock nearly as much, and it rides in a Kydex holster on my belt, instead of stuck in my pocket.
 
I picked up a brand new standard blued LCP yesterday from my FFL.
Being I intend to shoot it throughly today I broke it down and decided to clean it.
Ruger throughly oiled this little pistol at the factory.
It was all blue and shiney.
After blasting the well oiled gun with a non clorinated break cleaner within minutes of bringing it back inside the house(it was over 100 degrees yesterday and hotter than that in my garage) I was getting ready to use the CLP on the LCP (wow,the same letters) I noticed the gun had already started rusting!!
Obviously these things need to be kept well oiled.
So after todays range session I wont hesitate a minute to start cleaning it and reoiling with the CLP.
 
Kodiakbear, the problem I had with the test when I read it was that the metal used to test were nails, not finished firearms. I'm no metal expert, but I'm guessing some factors would be steel type and heat treating.

One test I was looking at wasn't much better using carbon steel for their testing, and still not a real firearm, but none the less: http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Big difference in 19 vs. 43 hours in salt water exposure where Eezox excelled. However, I won't be subjecting my guns to this torture :) so 19 hours looked excellent.
 
I picked up a brand new standard blued LCP yesterday from my FFL.
Being I intend to shoot it throughly today I broke it down and decided to clean it.
Ruger throughly oiled this little pistol at the factory.
It was all blue and shiney.
After blasting the well oiled gun with a non clorinated break cleaner within minutes of bringing it back inside the house(it was over 100 degrees yesterday and hotter than that in my garage) I was getting ready to use the CLP on the LCP (wow,the same letters) I noticed the gun had already started rusting!!
Obviously these things need to be kept well oiled.
So after todays range session I wont hesitate a minute to start cleaning it and reoiling with the CLP.
Click to expand...

Good grief, do you people have acid rain hanging in the air? Which part of the gun?
 
I can only assume it's the finish Ruger uses.
My Diamondback does not do that.
 
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