JustsayMo
Member
April's match has been posted. Get shootin!
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=4353091#post4353091
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=4353091#post4353091
The Marlin 39 Club
- Thread starter AStone
- Start date
- Status
AStone
Member
Bumpity.
AStone
Member
Out of curiosity, I just googled "Marlin 39".
This club link came up third, just behind Marlin's own web page and another THR thread on the 39A.
This club link came up third, just behind Marlin's own web page and another THR thread on the 39A.
Marlin 39A "E"
At the funshow...of course
Fondled a "E" prefix five numbers in the serial 39A, all seemed excellent or better with some blueing wear on the lever at the pivot point. Only thing I could see that concerned me was a bit of side-to-side movement of the lever.
Seller was willing to go $350.00
I passed just 'cause I really don't need one.
Did I screw up? Or should I race back tomorrow and scoop it up?
At the funshow...of course
Fondled a "E" prefix five numbers in the serial 39A, all seemed excellent or better with some blueing wear on the lever at the pivot point. Only thing I could see that concerned me was a bit of side-to-side movement of the lever.
Seller was willing to go $350.00
I passed just 'cause I really don't need one.
Did I screw up? Or should I race back tomorrow and scoop it up?
AStone
Member
Easy, I'm going to pass on a recommendation.
I'm too new to 39's to make a confident recommendation.
Hopefully other club members better informed than me
about older 39's will offer advice in time.
In general, if it's in good condition,
$350 sounds good for a 39 for someone who needs or wants one.
And of course, around here,
you'll hear a lot of folks say,
everyone needs one.
Nem
I'm too new to 39's to make a confident recommendation.
Hopefully other club members better informed than me
about older 39's will offer advice in time.
In general, if it's in good condition,
$350 sounds good for a 39 for someone who needs or wants one.
And of course, around here,
you'll hear a lot of folks say,
everyone needs one.
Nem
JustsayMo
Member
If I didn't have one I'd gladly pay $350 these days. Since I don't need another I'd probably pass unless it was a less common variation or I could talk the guy down to $300.
That being said, I've been known to drive up prices by paying too much for Marlins that I need...
That being said, I've been known to drive up prices by paying too much for Marlins that I need...
Rollis R. Karvellis
Member
Well I finally made it to the range yesterday, 1st time this year, because of my little mishap. The 39 work well for me with the Federal baulk pack, but when shooting buddy was using it started to F-T-E again, I didn’t get to try it much because I was busy sighting in an AR, testing loads for another, and being very disappointed in a used Redfield 6-18 scope on my new/used 700 .308.
Hopefully later today I’ll be able to make it back out to finish up with the 39.
Hopefully later today I’ll be able to make it back out to finish up with the 39.
Ottoshot
Member
Bump.
Still waiting on my liscence in the mail so I can take possesion of my rifle. I will have pics when I get it.
Still waiting on my liscence in the mail so I can take possesion of my rifle. I will have pics when I get it.
Guess I joined the club today. I picked up a Marlin 39A with a serial # starting with C. I think that dates the rifles date of manufacture around 1946 (first year). I counted 3 scratches/dents on the whole rifle. Not too shabby for a 62 year old rifle.
They were asking $500 for it, I took it home for $400. Probably $50 or so more $$ than I should have paid, but this thing is near mint. I count 3 slight dents in the stock, and 2 tiny scratches. The blueing is 99%. (there is wear on the lever, and hammer as there should be.)
tubeshooter
Contributing Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2006
- Messages
- 2,142
I wouldn't feel too bad about $400, sounds about right for nowadays. $350 would have been more in the "good deal" category.
Beautiful rifle. Congrats!
Beautiful rifle. Congrats!
AStone
Member
Threejs, welcome in. I agree with others: 400 for a vintage model like that is very cool. I wouldn't hesitate.
Let us know how she shoots.
Nem
Let us know how she shoots.
Nem
Serpico
Member
Here's my 1965 39A....
So I got to looking at the rifle again. (Love this rifle), and a couple of things were bothering me.
#1 C serial numbers are 46, but mounties didn't start till the 50s
Which bothered me as I was then thinking that the rifle was rebarreled. So I looked the rifle over again very closely, and there is a light stamped A in front of the C. Which puts the rifle in at 1967. So while it is not as old as I first suspected, I am very relieved that there is a much smaller chance that it has had "work" done to it.
$$ wise, I think I still paid market, so I am still happy with that. Maybe one day I will run across an older one, and have the funds to pick it up.
#1 C serial numbers are 46, but mounties didn't start till the 50s
Which bothered me as I was then thinking that the rifle was rebarreled. So I looked the rifle over again very closely, and there is a light stamped A in front of the C. Which puts the rifle in at 1967. So while it is not as old as I first suspected, I am very relieved that there is a much smaller chance that it has had "work" done to it.
$$ wise, I think I still paid market, so I am still happy with that. Maybe one day I will run across an older one, and have the funds to pick it up.
AZHighCountry
Member
Hi everyone. I just joined after browsing the site several times. I have a question about a 39A I just purchased and thought I would get some input before deciding what to do.
I have a very large firearm collection but just purchased my first 39A. I have desired one of these for a long time. MY dad had one that he had to sell when he had cancer and I have always regretted not being able to buy it from him at the time. I paid too much for this one ($300), but worked it into a package deal with a S&W 15-3 in like new condition and a lot of various ammo. There is almost no original bluing left on this rifle. However there is no pitting and the wood is in very good condition. It is a 1947 model ser# D39XX.
Here lies my dilemma. It's a very nice rifle, no pitting or rust, nice wood but no bluing left on the metal. I am trying to decide if I should have it refinished or just leave it alone and keep it oiled well when not using it. I am considering having it blued or going to Robar, (I pass within 1/2 mile of their shop every day), and having an NP3 finish put on it. Does this rifle have enough collector interest to just leave it alone or should I have it refinished and have one great shooter?
I have a very large firearm collection but just purchased my first 39A. I have desired one of these for a long time. MY dad had one that he had to sell when he had cancer and I have always regretted not being able to buy it from him at the time. I paid too much for this one ($300), but worked it into a package deal with a S&W 15-3 in like new condition and a lot of various ammo. There is almost no original bluing left on this rifle. However there is no pitting and the wood is in very good condition. It is a 1947 model ser# D39XX.
Here lies my dilemma. It's a very nice rifle, no pitting or rust, nice wood but no bluing left on the metal. I am trying to decide if I should have it refinished or just leave it alone and keep it oiled well when not using it. I am considering having it blued or going to Robar, (I pass within 1/2 mile of their shop every day), and having an NP3 finish put on it. Does this rifle have enough collector interest to just leave it alone or should I have it refinished and have one great shooter?
tubeshooter
Contributing Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2006
- Messages
- 2,142
I can't answer as far as collector value, but if it isn't rusty and it shoots then you didn't pay too much IMHO.
Congrats! You can always fix it up if you want...
Congrats! You can always fix it up if you want...
AStone
Member
Just checking in briefly after another full week at work.
(I'm talking 70 hours here ... but worth every hour.)
AZ, welcome in. $300 for a 39?
In a package deal w/ SW 15?
Not even too much. You scored.
Remember: this was Annie's gun.
Keep us posted.
(I'm talking 70 hours here ... but worth every hour.)
AZ, welcome in. $300 for a 39?
In a package deal w/ SW 15?
Not even too much. You scored.
Remember: this was Annie's gun.
Keep us posted.
JustsayMo
Member
AZ I'd be inclined to leave it as is. I don't mind some history on a rifle but I'm not a collector, though my wife might argue that.
AZHighCountry
Member
Thanks for the input. I will probably just leave it alone unless I see any signs of rust developing. I guess I could be considered a collector but I only collect guns I will shoot. I have been known to trade off real collector items for things I would shoot.
NEMATOCYST, I know I did well on the package deal, just wasn't sure if a 39A with none of the original finish was worth the $300 as the guy based the trade on $300 for each gun and he would throw in the ammo and a RCBS tumbler if I took both. I have since learned the S&W is worth considerably more than the $300 I gave for it as well. I didn't talk the guy down, I just acceopted his offer. I know a lot more about Colts and Remingtons than S&W and Marlin. I don't always come out so well. But, that's part of the fun of swapping an tradin toys.
Well now I have the 39A, a 336RC in .35 Remington, (1966 vintage), and a 336A 30-30, (unfortunatly a new one with cross bar safety). Guess I better start looking for some single action revolvers to go with the lever guns.
Bob
NEMATOCYST, I know I did well on the package deal, just wasn't sure if a 39A with none of the original finish was worth the $300 as the guy based the trade on $300 for each gun and he would throw in the ammo and a RCBS tumbler if I took both. I have since learned the S&W is worth considerably more than the $300 I gave for it as well. I didn't talk the guy down, I just acceopted his offer. I know a lot more about Colts and Remingtons than S&W and Marlin. I don't always come out so well. But, that's part of the fun of swapping an tradin toys.
Well now I have the 39A, a 336RC in .35 Remington, (1966 vintage), and a 336A 30-30, (unfortunatly a new one with cross bar safety). Guess I better start looking for some single action revolvers to go with the lever guns.
Bob
ANGUSLINCOLN
Member
Lighter trigger/Lighter strikes
Ever since the Shamrock Shoot, I've been monkeying around with the trigger pull on my 39a,(2007 model). I replaced the hammer spring with the lighter Wolf replacement and it did make the lever stroke cycle with less effort and the trigger did feel better, but without a gauge, it was hard to tell exactly how much. I also experienced lighter strikes and quite a few FTF's. I read about how the lower extension of the rebounding hammer strut can be removed but I really didn't want to start cutting or changing anything that might make the rifle less safe. Instead, I disassembled the bolt and firing pin and really cleaned it well. It was moderately dirty. I then put a little Flitz to the pin and bolt and tried to make the pin move as freely as possible in the fp channel. Then I put the whole thing back together and loaded the tube up. Every round cycled and fired as advertised. Mission accomplished; at least untill after the next 100 rounds or so and then I began to see a few FTF's again, so I reckon that FP and channel is getting dirty once again. This is not really acceptable to me so I was going to add a small washer to the upper end of the hammer spring to see if that might give the hammer just a bit more kinetic energy needed to set that primer into ignition. If anyone can enlighten me on any other method, I'd be very appreciative.
And since AZHighcountry mentioned single action revolvers, I might take this opprotunity show off a family portrait of a newly aquired "old" Vaquero that I picked up to go with my 39a and more appropriately, my 1894c; both are in .357 mag.
The Vaquero has the best trigger on any gun I've ever owned thanks to the previous owner and his affinity for cowboy action shooting. This older style Vaquero is one robust revolver and it's very shiny to boot!
Ever since the Shamrock Shoot, I've been monkeying around with the trigger pull on my 39a,(2007 model). I replaced the hammer spring with the lighter Wolf replacement and it did make the lever stroke cycle with less effort and the trigger did feel better, but without a gauge, it was hard to tell exactly how much. I also experienced lighter strikes and quite a few FTF's. I read about how the lower extension of the rebounding hammer strut can be removed but I really didn't want to start cutting or changing anything that might make the rifle less safe. Instead, I disassembled the bolt and firing pin and really cleaned it well. It was moderately dirty. I then put a little Flitz to the pin and bolt and tried to make the pin move as freely as possible in the fp channel. Then I put the whole thing back together and loaded the tube up. Every round cycled and fired as advertised. Mission accomplished; at least untill after the next 100 rounds or so and then I began to see a few FTF's again, so I reckon that FP and channel is getting dirty once again. This is not really acceptable to me so I was going to add a small washer to the upper end of the hammer spring to see if that might give the hammer just a bit more kinetic energy needed to set that primer into ignition. If anyone can enlighten me on any other method, I'd be very appreciative.
And since AZHighcountry mentioned single action revolvers, I might take this opprotunity show off a family portrait of a newly aquired "old" Vaquero that I picked up to go with my 39a and more appropriately, my 1894c; both are in .357 mag.
The Vaquero has the best trigger on any gun I've ever owned thanks to the previous owner and his affinity for cowboy action shooting. This older style Vaquero is one robust revolver and it's very shiny to boot!
JustsayMo
Member
Nice combo Angus. A Vaquero is the perfect companion for the 39. I frequently hunt with that combination except mine is 45 colt. The 39 is for everything up to Grouse and the 45 Colt is for everything bigger. It sure feels good walking around the woods with those two.
I hope you are punching holes in targets for the centerfire levergun match with that 1894 and using the Vaquero in the side match in the rimfire match.
I don't have any specific advice except keep tweaking with the 39. My 39TDS took a lot of trial and error to finally get it to be reliable. The other three 39's - all three pre-CBS - have all been 100% reliable Are the FTF rounds going off with a second strike?
I hope you are punching holes in targets for the centerfire levergun match with that 1894 and using the Vaquero in the side match in the rimfire match.
I don't have any specific advice except keep tweaking with the 39. My 39TDS took a lot of trial and error to finally get it to be reliable. The other three 39's - all three pre-CBS - have all been 100% reliable Are the FTF rounds going off with a second strike?
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