Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by AStone, Feb 24, 2007.
My friend and I have reached an agreement.
Maybe I'll name said price later.
Thanks for your input.
Very nice specimen you have there, cdb1.
Good lookin' rifle!
Well, I've sold my 336 30-30, but I still have the 35 Remington and the 444. I picked up a Savage 99 takedown 30-30 for a great price and I needed the money. I've been looking for the right one to buy again. I'd like one with a fore end cap and short magazine tube. I plan to cut it to 16" and thread it for my suppressor.
If anyone is interested in a 1951 336A 30-30 with undrilled receiver top, I found one in a local shop. It's a little nice to chop up. They're asking $600, but that's negotiable.
Just to punctuate this thread ...
After a LOT of conversations in person, by email and phone,
the buyer and I have arrived at a fair price for us both.
Completion of the sale is still weeks off (technical issues).
After it's completed, I'll report the sale price for the record.
Thanks to you all for helping us decide.
Finally joined this club a couple weeks ago. Got my first lever gun, a 336 built in 1981, chambered in .30-30. What a sweet shooting gun, and in excellent shape given its four years older than me... Wanted a lever gun since I was a kid, but never imagined I'd enjoy shooting one this much. Haven't touched another one of my guns since I picked this one up, and now I can't wait to get an 1895 in .45-70 to go with it.
Waiting for some receiver screws to come in and I'll get that travesty off of it (previous owner put it on). Also going to grab a Skinner sight and install sling studs. And no, I won't put the rear one in over the bullseye.
Congratulations, Bobson. I believe mine is from 1977, it was my first lever gun too.
I ended up getting a Williams WGRS put on it. This was back in the late '90s, so Dr. Skinner wasn't making his sights yet I don't think. I have his products on a couple of other rifles. Great products and great people to deal with. I am sure you will be pleased.
I kind of wanted a .45-70 at one point too... until I saw what factory ammo costs. I still like them and I certainly wouldn't refuse one if you gave it to me (make mine a Marlin, please). But honestly it's more gun than I will ever need. Definitely would be a "just because" purchase, which is fine.
All else I can say is don't bend your lever and don't dent your tube. Congrats again and enjoy!
[EDIT: And of course - welcome to the club!]
Welcome, Bobson. Congrats on that older rifle.
Tube understands the older ones, and levers in general.
He's one of several that will likely take over this club now
as I move toward bolt guns at 100 - 200 m .. ok, maybe 225 ...
I was looking at 45-70s, but I got a sweet deal from a buddy on the 444. I think they're neck in neck. 45-70 has more bullets available, but a 265 flat point works so well with the 444. I took a deer with it last season. Bang and flop at about 100 yards, actually boom and flop.
Of course I never chased a deer after a hit with my 30-30.
Is depressing the loading gate suppose to release the action, dropping the lever slightly? I replaced the original lever with a large loop lever not sure if that could cause any problems. I am pretty sure its a safety feature but... might as well ask. I hardly ever shoot it and my brother in law is interested in it and want to make sure it is in good order.
My dad gave me this Marlin 336 in 30-30 that he bought at the base exchange when stationed in Okinawa in the late 50's. I'm not exactly sure which variant it is, maybe the 336SD? it sure has taken a lot of deer through the years. I lost the front sight hood while hunting one year and its sporting a vintage Weaver 4X scope with tip off mount. Its a great gun for hunting in the big woods of NW Pennsylvania!
Not a lot of Monte Carlo stocked 336's out there...
What does the roll mark on the barrel say, and what is the letter prefix of the serial number?
BTW...I think you will find that the correct model is 336A-DL, 1957-1962
It is currently in my dads gun safe because I don't have room right now so I don't know how its marked. I thought the A DL had highly figured walnut and a cheek piece but maybe not. Here is the other side. I will check roll marks in the next day or 2. Serial number is S150xx
I am pretty sure I put up a picture of my Marlin somewhere on this thread, I just won't go through 144 pages to make sure. Bought this rifle and scope from the same gun store. They put them together for me. Rifle is a 1983 Marlin 336CS. Scope is Leupold VXIII. The only thing I don't like about the rifle is the cross bolt safety.
My grandfather has a Marlin 1936 that he rarely uses since he doesn't hunt.To my knowledge it has only seen daylight once in the last 30 years and that was to show me.
I thought from the right that it had a cheek piece...
But from the left I see it does not...
I do believe SD is correct then...
336 A and A-DL had a 24" barrel. The 336 SC and SD had 20". The SDs had SC rollmarks, and X stamped on the lower tang.
Hey everybody! Durn here. I am new to lever guns in general and am looking at a fine 336C in .35 rem for deer hunting on some thicker brush and a few open fields. So have some things to learn. Does the lever cock the hammer? Is this club still active lol?
The lever cycles the bolt which cocks the hammer.
Ok good to know thanks for the speedy reply!
Can anybody recommend a good short range scope. I'm thinking about a scout scope mounted as forward as I can while still using the holes in the receiver as to not put anymore holes in it. Was looking at the 2.75x20mm by Burris. Shooting .35 rem btw.
The 2.75 power is a nice one for the shorter range, compact 336, but the 20mm may not let in enough light early in the day in forest hunting areas. Check the light transmission on the scope and see if it'll work as well as a larger objective like a 32mm.
My .35 Rem has an unknown brand 4x32 that came mounted on it when I bought it from a seller from Michigan off GB. The scope/rifle combo works very well, as it'll shoot literal cloverleafs at 100 yds with the Remington 150 gr Core Lokts (single loaded), and it's at an inch at 100 with the 200 gr RN Core Lokts.
Wow I'll definitely be looking into that! Thank you and that is a fine specimen of a gun.
Is a Marlin 30AS eligible for the 336 club?...... It's just an economy version 336 with no checkering or sling studs or front sight hood and the wood is ( I believe) just birch with a walnut stain. Inherited this .30-30 from an uncle 16 years ago; put sling studs and a 1-4x 20mm Leupold on it, ( receiver was also pre drilled & tapped). The discussion about light transmission with smaller objective lenses is of interest to me as I have two scopes with 20mm objectives ( the other one's a 2.5x 20mm Leupold on my 12 ga. slug gun) and I've never felt handicapped at dusk and dawn even though some of what I read & hear about it says otherwise. Maybe if it's practically dark there could be a difference but most low light is no problem and perhaps it boils down to the quality of the glass used in the lenses. I really like the 1-4x power range for a short range scope on a woods gun and to my eye the more compact scopes really look good on lever guns.
Their trim lines and slightly smaller size just seems to compliment the classic lever gun look better than big scopes with big objective lenses; IMHO, anyway.
Since it's a relative, as far as I care it's a 336 at heart.
You're right about the higher quality scopes/glass being better light transmitters, some are better than others. I love Leupold glass like yours, and I have some of their scopes on my fancier rifles.
I also agree the 20mm compact scopes do look good and feel/carry better on the carbines IMHO. The one on mine is a bit too big for my liking, but it shoots so well as-is I'm overlooking the aesthetics...for now, anyway. A while ago I saw one lever (94 AE I think?) with a big-honkin' scope squatting on top and it looked to me like the old space shuttle perched on it's 747 transporter.
Here's my latest. I had been looking for a Glenfield with a short magazine, so I could more easily shorten the barrel and also have it threaded for my suppressor. I stumbled onto this on Gunbroker, with a broken stock, and the name engraved on the left of the receiver. List for $200 plus $30 shipping. It's a 1952 336 SC. So it's a waffle top, but it has been drilled and tapped for scope mounts. It's a shooter not a collectible, so I don't mind.
I offered $200 shipped, and now it's mine. Right now it has a Champion plastic stock and I need to get a range day so I can see how it shoots.
Hey guys, I'm deciding to add a barrel band sling swivel that clamps on. Where do you find the best spot to mount it? Against the fore-end or a couple inches forward of that? Any issues with warping the magazine tube if using the sling as a shooting support offhand? I imagine it can, and the best spot would be against the fore-end.
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