The Marlin 39 Club

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Is it too late to join this here fine club?

I waited nearly 80 years to buy my first .22 rifle - it should be arriving next week (Nov24) - it is a 1979 model. I have the scope mount, see-through rings, scope (two) and an AGI DVD, maybe I'll learn how to take it apart. Maybe the thread-starter will start a new website for this club, eh?

Pete (The oldfella)
 
oldfella, welcome! "Better late than never."

The AGI video is pretty good. I've referred to it several times when I wanted to replace or clean something. By and large the 39 is pretty trouble free, especially the pre-safety versions.

I look forward to reading your impressions of the rifle, what ammo it likes and any adventures you have with it.
 
Anyone try hunting with the Aguila Super Calibra ammo? What did you decide the max effective range is?

(I realize someone may have writtena about this here before, but I don't have time to read a 70 page book looking for it.)
 
I got around to taking some better photos of my 1897 Annie Oakley,so here they are. THB
 

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Just say Mo - I'll let y'all know how my "new' 39A shoots as soon as I can... it may not be until April or May, my old bones are "allergic" to this cold weather.

Tex Billy - You have an outstanding rifle there, congratulations.

Pete
 
I found a 1976 39m in my local gun shop. It has the original box and papers. Bluing is perfect, wood has plenty of light scratches in the clearcoat. Does anyone have any ideas about how to fix the scratches?
 
txhillbilly - Annie is a beaut! 39's with oct barrels are on my must have list. Thanks for posting the pictures!

oldfella - you have more patience than me. I've been know to stop at the range on the way home from the gun shop...

rimfire - Depending the severity of the scratches you might consider leaving them. I find it is a lot easier to use a rifle that shows a little history than one in perfect condition, especially when it comes to hunting.

Scratches are kind of like scars, there is usually a good story connected to them - or you can always make one up...
 
Can you avoid a dry-fire?

Not knowing any better, I'd say the 39A does not lock open after the last round - so, to avoid the dreaded dry-fire and run the risk of damaging the firing pin or something else - without keeping count of the rounds fired, is there a way to tell when to quit pulling the trigger... like maybe using a dummy round - has this been discussed elsewhere? Thanks.

Pete (The Oldfella)
 
Newer 39A's have a peep hole that you can look through to see if there is a shell left. But to me its more annoying to keep looking because you have to count anyways to know when you are close to empty. Counting is much easier. But like you said, you can probably toss a snap cap in first and stop shooting when it ejects.
 
"you can probably toss a snap cap in first and stop shooting when it ejects." -

Shouldn't that read last?

Pete
Click to expand...
Throw A snap cap first in the tube when loading. That is what I meant lol. Sorry for the confusion. If you toss a snap cap in first into the feeding tube, it will be the last round to eject.
Vic
 
39a dry fire

Hi oldfella
If you try it, the first round you put in the tube of a model 39a is the first round to be chambered. However being the the last one loaded will allow you to drop the hammer and firing pin on a snap cap, or empty shell. I have found that I am not rechambering that quickly and even if I am one or two off counting, when I approach the end I just start eye-balling the chamber after each shot for what I think are the last three shots. A little practice makes it part of the routine. I am well into my 60's and just got my first 39a and am really enjoying it along with a more recently acquired Savage Favorite (Stevens).
TaKe CaRe
Ted
 
Thanks for the clarification Jake, you confirmed my thinking - frankly, I don't believe I will remember to count the rounds fired. The AGI DVD presentation shows the armorer explaining the chambering process, through the hammer drop; he uses a real round with a hole drilled on the casing where the propellant powder was emptied. If I can do that without distorting the casing, I could use that as a last round indicator.... I'd have to drill a few rounds, because surely I'll lose some. Would that work?

Pete

Edit - I think I've found the answer - this same question was being discussed at another board. The most reasonable solution to avoid dry-firing is to load a different, lower power round as your last to be fired.
Pete
 
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Sling and Carrying Case/bag

I have another question, probably not the last one: I think I will need a sling, something inexpensive, and a carry case/bag for a scoped 39A, also not expensive. Your suggestions and recommendations are appreciated. Thanks.

Pete
 
I have a retired friend who has been a gun nut almost all his life. He is an amateur machinist and has gunsmithing skills. His first gun was a 39A. He still has it and says he has been dry-firing it now for over half a century. And he sees no sign of damage.

I have a Kimber 82, and the owner's manual states that it is okay to dry fire it.
 
Cases and Slings

Pete,

I've been using my hard side cases more than the soft side cases recently, because we take so much junk when we go plinking, the hard cases seem to give a little more protection to the rifles (easier to load the truck up). I usually get my cases from a local gun store, because I like the made in USA models, that way I can look at the label. The DoskoSport cases I have were usually about $25, and have been working very well....Cabella's carries a few of them:
http://www.cabelas.com/hprod-1/0005618.shtml

The only other slings I have are on my military rifles, all the new ones being from Turner, so I had to research the slings for my Marlin. Here is Chuck Hawk's review: http://www.chuckhawks.com/sling.htm

Here is Hunter's website: http://www.huntercompany.com/slings.html

I ended up with the one Chuck recommended, got it last week, a lot less leather than the Turner military slings, but exactly what I was looking for:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=356363&t=11082005

Good luck
 
To Rimfirerick:

I found a 1976 39m in my local gun shop. It has the original box and papers. Bluing is perfect, wood has plenty of light scratches in the clearcoat. Does anyone have any ideas about how to fix the scratches?
Click to expand...


Sounds like you got a nice rifle, probably worth more with the original finish on the stock. I figured mine was a little more used, and doesn't have the box or tags, and I plan on keeping it, so I refinished the wood. It turned out great. Steamed the dents, lightly sanded the old finish and dings out, used Minwax Tung Oil (with varnish of some sort in it), and it looks great. I like "new" looking, or well used, but if it's just a little dinged, and be fixed....
 
OK, I'll join.

I have been looking at one occasionally up at Cabella's in Hammond while passing through for work. I was impressed by it's quality and heft. I checked the serial number and determined it was a 1957-58 39A Golden Mountie. It came with a scope and nice leather sling but looks like the front sight hood was missing. I thought the price was a little high so offered lower and paid $300. All in all, I am happy with the purchase. The bore looks brand new, the stock has a few normal dings, and the blueing is probably 98%.

39amountieeq1.jpg
 
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As far as cases and slings, I'm partial to soft cases (for no real reason it seems, other than they are easier for me to store). Redhead (Bass Pro's private label) makes a really nice 42' "rimfire" softcase that fits the 39A very snug and nice. Very affordable as well. Not sure if it has enough room for a scope.

Sling was a tough one for me as well. I wanted a military sling (I got this nice old Jack O'Conner book and I wanted to learn to shoot with it), went with Hunter. Works well, but I like Sandy's up there...
 
Been doing some thinking about the "need" for a sling, for me, any way. I am not a hunter, I'll not be totting the rifle in the woods - I think it might just be a nuisance (?).

Pete
 
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