The Marlin 39 Club

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Neo: Whoa. Deja vu.

Trinity: What did you just say?

Neo: Nothing. Just had a little deja vu.

Trinity: What happened? What did you see?

Neo: A comment about 39s went past us and then I saw another that looked just like it.

Trinity: How much like it? Was it the same comment about 39s?

Neo: It might have been. I'm not sure. What is it?

Trinity: A deja vu is usually a glitch in the Matrix. It happens when they change something.
 
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Deja Vu

All over again
The one and only Yogi
I had to run into that before my coffee:what::uhoh:
OH, Great looking Model 39's
Tho' at the moment a bit bluurrry after that go round:eek:
TaKe CaRe
Ted
 
Hahaha ... you folks are a riot, especially for so early on Sunday.
(Yeah, it may be 1 pm, but I work nights so this is still 7 am for me ...)
 
My Sight Leveling Technique

Nema,

I read your scope leveling technique. Here's how I did mine which also takes into consideration the straight-up-ness of the rifle.

Requirements: Line levels (2) (teeney weeney levels that can lay flat on a surface), Bigger level (1) 1' long would do fine, Duct Tape (lots)

1. Clamp the rifle in an appropriate vise. I used a Black and Decker Workmate. Remove the sight adjustment cap on the top of the scope

2. Using the larger level on the barrel as a guide, adjust the rifle so the barrel is pretty close to horizontal. This really only needs to be approximate. Tighten the vise and remove the big level.

3. Loosen the scope slightly so that it rotates in the rings with some minimal resistance.

4. Place one of the string levels on the front sight base. Adjust the rifle in the vise or adjust the vise itself so that the level bubble is centered. Tighten the vise and the rifle is now considered to be in position.

5. Place a second line level on the top adjustment assembly. Turn the scope until the level bubble is centered. Tighten the screws carefully as not to move the scope out of position.

6. Double check that both the level on the front sight base and the level on the top adjustment assembly are centered. The rifle scope is now considered leveled to the gun.

7. Apply lots of duct tape, leaving at a minimum the hole in the end of the barrel open.
 
Ted,

There is no assertion that the floor is level at all. Step 2 levels the barrel to the bubble (true level), while step 4 levels the gun right to left, independent of the floor. You might end up shimmy-ing the Workmate to in Step 4 to center the bubble.

More clear?
 
wow.

All that is way more complicated than the way I do it.

I set the rifle on something (Anything) that will allow it to sit with the muzzle pointed down at about 45 degrees.

I use the couch in the living room. The rifle doesn't need to be straight or level with the ground because we are only concerned that the scope is lined up with the rifle.

With the scope loose enough to rotate, I step back so my face is about two feet behind the butt of the rifle.

By carefully moving my head to just the right position,I find the place where I can see the crosshairs. you will have to be lined up with the scope just right, but when you get it you will be able to see the crosshairs and the butt of the rifle at the same time.

Then, I turn the scope so the crosshairs line up with the screws holding the butt pad.

If I'm not dead sure that it's straight (I usually am) I will hold a piece of paper up and use the edge to verify that the vertical crosshair is pointing straight through both buttpad screws.

Snug the screws and look to make sure it's still straight.

Tighten the screws, and take one last look to insure the scope didn't move when you tightened it.

This whole process takes about one minute, and NASA couldn't get the scope any straighter.

Try it!
 
I called Leupold today.

They prounounce it "Loo-Pold".

Everybody I know pronounces it "Lee-a-pold", and that's how I've been saying it for about thirty years now...

Anyway...

They said two weeks and fifteen bucks to reset the parallax on my scope.

Fair enough. It's not their fault I want my scope modified.

Fifteen bucks is plenty reasonable, and two weeks with shipping seems pretty fair too.

Now... What to do about the Shamrock Shoot?
 
Fast shoot one Non Magnified and humble us all and then shoot Magnified when it comes back.

FWIW: The scope mounting technique John describes is the way I was taught. It isn't as complicated as it seems.

I'm sure the other methods work just fine too. It doesn't take long at the range to know one way of the other. Up means up and Left means left. Groups should respond accordingly.
 
I have started a scope mounting service to make a few bucks in my spare time. I will mount any scope on any rifle and guarantee it is rock solid and in alignment for one hour or until it leaves the mounting jig, whichever comes first. S,H & DT extra. ;)

Frank - on the pronunciation of Leupold - they are right (loo-pold), I heard old Fred himself pronounce his own name in a taped conversation with him long ago.
 
John's scope leveling procedure is clear, precise and doesn't sound difficult.

I missed this last step when I read it first this morning.

7. Apply lots of duct tape, leaving at a minimum the hole in the end of the barrel open.
Click to expand...
Took me a minute to get that. :D

Guess we're going to have to rename the club: The Marlin 39 and Duct Tape Club. ;)

Frank's method sounds workable, also. I'll give both a try.

Now, where'd I put that roll of ...
 
Progress being made, folks!

The scope got bundled up in enough bubble wrap to ship a big screen TV, and boxed up nicely.

It went out UPS today.

I ordered a big, beefy sight base from Bsquare to replace the wimpy one that's on the rifle now. (No more Three Ring Circus, Bozo!)

Tomorrow, I'm going to warm up the locktite and pull the sight base off.

And after that... Maybe I'll shoot the Shamrock Shootout!

(And still no response to my email)
 
Hey Everyone.

I live in Ontario, Canada. My first .22 a few years ago was a marlin 925. I wanted a 39 from the day I got my gun license, but opted for a cheaper rifle. Well, at a gun show a few weeks ago I saw a nice looking 39A. I took the guys card to think about it, and after getting a cheque in the mail from my old employer for exactly what the guy was asking for it, I called him up and took it home.

Its a 1960 Golden 39A. Everything is in good condition, all the parts are there. The gun has definitely seen some use, but its been cared for. I took off the buttplate to clean up the spacer (it was discoloured), and the original owners name is written on the wood. Neat! Bruce Wadden is what it says. (You out there, Bruce?)

Now, to the point. It looks like the stock has been refinished at some point. It has a slightly brown cast to it compared to the foregrip, which is reddish. It looks like the finish is slightly opaque and is hiding the grain of the walnut. Should I refinish the stock? Or should I refinish both the stock and foregrip so they match? Im pretty good with finishing, I build canoe paddles occasionally and usually use linseed or waterlox finishes. Im fairly new to gun ownership, so I need some good advice. Also, the receiver has been drilled for a scope mount. Do I fill these holes with the "dummy screws" available?

I'll post some pics soon enough, but first I want to get out and shoot this thing!
 
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