The Marlin 39 Club

Status
Not open for further replies.
These days, the best option is to have the receiver drilled and tapped, but that reduces the value, and you want to make sure the person doing it really knows what they're doing.

Can you recommend a smith that I can ship the top half to?
 
I'm in, just picked up a 39m. Any info on good reference material on this gun would be apreciated. I am a 336 addict and now I am moving to 39s. thanks Matt
 
Hi all,

Nice comfortable clubhouse you've got here! Haven't had time to read all 103 pages yet but I'm thoroughly enjoying most all of the posts I've seen so far.

From a third generation owner of a '52 39A. (My dad handed it down to me on my 13th birthday, along with 50 rounds of 22LR round-nose).

Just wanted to say hi. Stories and pix will be forthcoming.

Steve
 
I always wanted one, but thought it was ridiculous they went for $300 or more.

Finally found one for $200, and pounced.

Vaarok, I agree 100%. my brother got lucky and inherited one.

I got lucky and found a Remington speedmaster for 2 bills in a pawn shop (Retail 598.00 per remington website). I always wanted one and only know of one other person than had one when I was a kid 40 years ago.

Most people won't spend the money for a modle 39. winchester 9422 or a speedmaster when a Ruger 1022 or marlin model 60 goes for a buck fifty.
 
Ole Man's Marlin 39A---lots of ?

A common story about this particular gun....my Dad back in the early 60's showed me how to shoot with his rifle. The only other thing he did was explain how they made the metal rainbow colors. The other specifics:
Serial # B 2495, Manufactured in NEW HAVEN, CONN. So my questions are
1. when was my gun built 2. Will restoration work reduce the value and 3. How much is it worth on the open market?
Thanks for your help!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0001.jpg
    IMG_0001.jpg
    273.3 KB · Views: 50
  • IMG_0002.jpg
    IMG_0002.jpg
    281.2 KB · Views: 50
dsteck You have a early 39A the pre war guns were the only ones with the case colored receivers. The first year (1939) had no prefix B was the second year. I would not do any restoration to your gun it looks to be in very good shape for it’s age. I would think it is worth around $1000 in the shape it is in.
 
Hey dsteck, I'm with stubbfarmer on not doing restoration, but wondering if there are known faults with your gun or was some restoration done already?

My 39A was in very poor shape when I rescued it from my Dad's house. I wanted to shoot it again and have my kids enjoy shooting it as well. I wound up stripping it completely and sending it out for polishing and re-bluing. While I was waiting (many months) for it to come back, I refinished the furniture. When it was all back together it was of much, much higher value to my family and I. Hopefully it will be passed along to the next generation. So there are things that can be done to increase value, exactly what depends on the current condition and the intended use of the gun. This would probably apply to any antique, be it a gun or a butter churn.

As for what it is worth, you could check out some on-line firearm auction sites. $1000 is too rich for me, but there are a lot of serious collectors out there so maybe you could get that much. Are you looking to sell it?

Best wishes and thanks for sharing the pictures with us!
 
Last edited:
Here are mine...
1947 given to be my dad for my 9th birthday, 43 years ago. Wears a Weaver G4 scope.
IMG_0124.jpg
And my '09 bought last year wearing an old Simmons Deerfield scope.
IMG_0120.jpg
My Best,
Walt
 
I just picked up a 1948 39a and thought the wood had been refinished because of its shine (thought the originals were all a dull oil finish). It looks just like the finish on dewalt's and dsteck's gun. What type of finish did they use in the late 40's. I also have a 62 mountie and a 64 standard 39a and both have the dull oil finish on them.

Scott
 
Marlin's stock finish in those days was some type of oil finish.
When new they had the famous oil "egg shell" luster, but this turns to a more flat look over the years and use.
 
With the number of 39's I've seen with the stock bullseye missing I'm assuming someone here on the board must have gone through replacing theirs. The new replacements seem to have to be shaped to match the stocks contours. Anyone have any tips on doing so? The gun I have had one installed in it without being shaped. I assume you protect the stocks finish and sand the bulleyes?

Scott
 
1897 texan

got a 2002 texan 22, have lots of ejection isues , sent it to the marlin rep gunsmith here in canada, in quebec. they got back to me and said it has a headspace problems and can't be fixed? Go figure it fires perfect every time never a FTF only FTE do this sound like headspace issues to you ? They said they would replace it but it isn't made anymore what should I do?
Newfie bullet
 
MP,
I believe that G4 was bought new with the rifle, been on there for the 43 years I've had it anyway.
It's exceptionally clear, has very thin crosshairs and holds zero.
It's only drawback is eye relief-very touchy, you have to be in just the right position. That makes quick acquisition tricky until you get used to it.
I've often thought of putting a peep on it, but the scope works so well I never did.
I've murdered a boatload of rodents with that gun. Used to go out a couple of nights a week for Coons, back when you got a decent buck for pelts.
My Best,
Walt
 
dewalt,

Thanks for the reply.


Anyone know where I can get the scope and mount like the one dewalt has? I have an older 39a that I am about to have D&T for the B-square mount and I might as well mount a period scope since I am doing no more serious shooting than paper and pests.
 
Here's a pic of the scope and mount off the rifle. It's not assembled correctly, but shows what you want to look for. The mount is a Weaver N-2.
I hope you can find one.
IMG_0098.jpg
My Best,
Walt
 
With the number of 39's I've seen with the stock bullseye missing I'm assuming someone here on the board must have gone through replacing theirs. The new replacements seem to have to be shaped to match the stocks contours. Anyone have any tips on doing so? The gun I have had one installed in it without being shaped. I assume you protect the stocks finish and sand the bulleyes?

Use epoxy or a wood-type "super glue" to glue the Marlin bullseye in the hole.

Wrap tape around the bullseye to protect the stock.
Start off with a file to file the plastic down close to the tape.
Don't file too fast because the plastic tends to melt.
Once its close, wrap sand paper around the file and use it to bring the plastic down to the level of the tape.
For best control, use the sand paper wrapped file like a fine... sand in only one direction. This gives better control and helps prevent cutting into the tape and the wood.

When the bullseye is flush with the tape, remove the tape and switch to a finer sand paper and sand down until its about flush with the wood, but not so close you cut into the finish.
Switch to a VERY fine sand paper and remove all sanding marks from the plastic.
Finish by polishing with a metal polish or even tooth paste and a cloth until the bullseye is shiny and scratch free.
 
"With the number of 39's I've seen with the stock bullseye missing I'm assuming someone here on the board must have gone through replacing theirs. The new replacements seem to have to be shaped to match the stocks contours. Anyone have any tips on doing so? The gun I have had one installed in it without being shaped. I assume you protect the stocks finish and sand the bulleyes?"

here's a thread showing how to replace the bullseye w/ lots of pictures -
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315009
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top