The Marlin 39 Club
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Gerstleguy
Member
CB900- Figured as much, I've been enjoying your posts on this thread for awhile now. Congratulations on a great deal!
Gunga
Member
New guy here. I just inherited my father in law's model 39, serial number 47xx. I'm having trouble getting an exact manufacture date. Am I to understand it is pre 1932? It seems to be in very good shape. I want to shoot this gun. What precautions do I need to take besides cleaning the gun? I'm interested to learn how to disassemble it too.
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
Check the markings on the barrel.
If it's stamped just as a Model 39 it was made between 1922 and 1938.
WARNING. If it is a Model 39 and the serial number doesn't start with "HS" the rifle is not safe to shoot with High Speed .22LR ammo.
These older models should be used ONLY with Standard Velocity ammo to prevent breaking the bolt.
These older models will have an octagon barrel and had color case hardened receivers.
The earlier Model 39 without a prefix to the serial number or with an "S" prefix are noted for the finer workmanship and quality.
After 1939 Marlin changed the model to the Model 39-A.
Marlin serial numbers are sometimes difficult to narrow down as to a manufacture date.
The very early Model 39 rifles and the original 97 models used straight serial numbers, but for some reason, all the online references I can find don't show any of the 1920's and 30's serial numbers.
If you look at straight serial numbers you'll get an 1897 model, and if you use a serial number prefix, you'll get post-war serial numbers.
Going on your serial number, if it's stamped just as a Model 39, it would probably have been made in 1922 or 1923.
Disassembly is pretty much like the newest versions.
Make sure it's empty.
Cock the hammer ALL THE WAY and open the lever just slightly. (If you don't cock the hammer all the way, when you disassemble the receiver the bolt and hammer will be damaged).
Unscrew the large thumb screw on the receiver. (Don't use a screwdriver it'll damage the slot, use a quarter. The screw is a captive screw and won't come all the way out. Just unscrew until it's completely loose in the receiver).
Holding the stock, gently bump the muzzle on a carpeted floor and the two receivers will separate.
Immediately lower the hammer to prevent accidentally pulling the trigger and allowing it to drop onto the receiver.
Push the bolt slightly to the rear and lift it out.
Notice that in the left receiver is a brass "box" with the ejector. In front of the ejector is what appears to be a silver screw with a notch in it.
This is actually a rivet.
Push the ejector down into the brass box with a screwdriver or punch and use a screwdriver to rotate the screw-like rivet about 1/3 of a turn. This locks the ejector down so you can get a cleaning rod into the barrel.
After cleaning, be sure to rotate the rivet to release the ejector.
To reassemble, put the bolt into the receiver and push it all the way forward.
Cock the hammer all the way.
Open the lever just slightly.
Insert the tongue on the right receiver into the half moon cut on the left receiver and push the two receivers together. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING.
If they don't want to seat, move the lever slightly back and forth and make sure the bolt is forward.
Tighten the thumb screw snuggly until the two receivers are fully seated and there is no "Step" between the two.
Make sure the action operates smoothly.
Here's a link to a current owner's manual:
http://stevespages.com/pdf/marlin_39a39m.pdf
If it's stamped just as a Model 39 it was made between 1922 and 1938.
WARNING. If it is a Model 39 and the serial number doesn't start with "HS" the rifle is not safe to shoot with High Speed .22LR ammo.
These older models should be used ONLY with Standard Velocity ammo to prevent breaking the bolt.
These older models will have an octagon barrel and had color case hardened receivers.
The earlier Model 39 without a prefix to the serial number or with an "S" prefix are noted for the finer workmanship and quality.
After 1939 Marlin changed the model to the Model 39-A.
Marlin serial numbers are sometimes difficult to narrow down as to a manufacture date.
The very early Model 39 rifles and the original 97 models used straight serial numbers, but for some reason, all the online references I can find don't show any of the 1920's and 30's serial numbers.
If you look at straight serial numbers you'll get an 1897 model, and if you use a serial number prefix, you'll get post-war serial numbers.
Going on your serial number, if it's stamped just as a Model 39, it would probably have been made in 1922 or 1923.
Disassembly is pretty much like the newest versions.
Make sure it's empty.
Cock the hammer ALL THE WAY and open the lever just slightly. (If you don't cock the hammer all the way, when you disassemble the receiver the bolt and hammer will be damaged).
Unscrew the large thumb screw on the receiver. (Don't use a screwdriver it'll damage the slot, use a quarter. The screw is a captive screw and won't come all the way out. Just unscrew until it's completely loose in the receiver).
Holding the stock, gently bump the muzzle on a carpeted floor and the two receivers will separate.
Immediately lower the hammer to prevent accidentally pulling the trigger and allowing it to drop onto the receiver.
Push the bolt slightly to the rear and lift it out.
Notice that in the left receiver is a brass "box" with the ejector. In front of the ejector is what appears to be a silver screw with a notch in it.
This is actually a rivet.
Push the ejector down into the brass box with a screwdriver or punch and use a screwdriver to rotate the screw-like rivet about 1/3 of a turn. This locks the ejector down so you can get a cleaning rod into the barrel.
After cleaning, be sure to rotate the rivet to release the ejector.
To reassemble, put the bolt into the receiver and push it all the way forward.
Cock the hammer all the way.
Open the lever just slightly.
Insert the tongue on the right receiver into the half moon cut on the left receiver and push the two receivers together. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING.
If they don't want to seat, move the lever slightly back and forth and make sure the bolt is forward.
Tighten the thumb screw snuggly until the two receivers are fully seated and there is no "Step" between the two.
Make sure the action operates smoothly.
Here's a link to a current owner's manual:
http://stevespages.com/pdf/marlin_39a39m.pdf
Gunga
Member
Thanks very much for the information. I had read somewhere about not using high speed ammo. I'm looking forward to enjoying this rifle.
erict
Member
jgray
Member
Please SIGN ME UP!
Would like to join your club!
Jgray
Would like to join your club!
Jgray
fastfreddie
Member
Hi gang,
I have posted pics of my 1947 39A a few dozen pages back. Well, I just purchased a 1980 model (according to the seller) and it is missing the bullseye in the buttstock. I'm picking it up on Sunday.
Can the bullseye be purchased anywhere, or will I just have to do without it?
I may have overpaid a little ($400) , but these older ones are few and far between in my area, so I really don't mind paying the money. Seller estimates bluing is 95% and wood is free of major dings, but does have some wear. I mostly just wanted another one for a shooter that I could mount a scope on. I don't have the heart to D&T my 1947 D prefix.
Thanks, Freddie
OK here are the pics the seller had posted. I know y'all love some pics: (better pics to come once the rifle is in my hands)
I have posted pics of my 1947 39A a few dozen pages back. Well, I just purchased a 1980 model (according to the seller) and it is missing the bullseye in the buttstock. I'm picking it up on Sunday.
Can the bullseye be purchased anywhere, or will I just have to do without it?
I may have overpaid a little ($400) , but these older ones are few and far between in my area, so I really don't mind paying the money. Seller estimates bluing is 95% and wood is free of major dings, but does have some wear. I mostly just wanted another one for a shooter that I could mount a scope on. I don't have the heart to D&T my 1947 D prefix.
Thanks, Freddie
OK here are the pics the seller had posted. I know y'all love some pics: (better pics to come once the rifle is in my hands)
Last edited:
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
You can buy new Marlin Bullseyes.
They have to be glued in and then shaped and polished to fit the curvature of the stock.
Part # 2:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=283/schematicsdetail/39A
They have to be glued in and then shaped and polished to fit the curvature of the stock.
Part # 2:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=283/schematicsdetail/39A
fastfreddie
Member
Thanks dfariswheel. I think I'll pick one up and give it a try.
jgray
Member
Marbles Tang Sight
Hi All,
I have a Marlin Mountie and wanted to mount a Marbles Tang Peep Sight on it. I've been looking around on the Midway website and find that there are two styles.
Apparently one is the original design and then there is also an Improved version. Is one better than the other? You who have these on your Marlins have any imput you can give me? Going to use the Mountie primarily to hunt, plink, cowboy sidematch; maybe .22 silhouette.
I suppose I could get by with the stock open sights, but I really like the looks of the tang sights; just needed to know which in your opinions is the best of the Marbles.
Regards,
jgray
Hi All,
I have a Marlin Mountie and wanted to mount a Marbles Tang Peep Sight on it. I've been looking around on the Midway website and find that there are two styles.
Apparently one is the original design and then there is also an Improved version. Is one better than the other? You who have these on your Marlins have any imput you can give me? Going to use the Mountie primarily to hunt, plink, cowboy sidematch; maybe .22 silhouette.
I suppose I could get by with the stock open sights, but I really like the looks of the tang sights; just needed to know which in your opinions is the best of the Marbles.
Regards,
jgray
I use the standard Marbles tang sights. I have read some feedback complaints about the improved ones saying they are too flimsy, and other problems.
The only difference is on the improved version, you can remove the whole upright post and change to a taller one for extra long range.
I think the short post on mine would adjust high enough if I wanted to shoot way, way out there.
The 3 apertures that come with them are very nice. But I make my own custom ones that I like even better. (No, I don,t make them to sell for other people. Sorry).
Anyways, I sugjest the standard.
-Scott.
Last edited:
Huckelberry75
Member
Been pondering the same question. Great minds think alike.
jgray
Member
RE: tang sight
Hi Guys,
Appreciate the information; I was kind of leaning towards the original model, and I believe I'll go ahead, order it, and go from there. This thread is a wonderful source!
Regards,
jgray
Hi Guys,
Appreciate the information; I was kind of leaning towards the original model, and I believe I'll go ahead, order it, and go from there. This thread is a wonderful source!
Regards,
jgray
jgray
Member
RE: Tang sight
ACTOCS,
From the picture you posted it appears you did not use the tang screw to mount your base for the tang sight. Did you drill two new holes to attach it? Nice setup--like the traditional looks of it. Appreciate your efforts!
jgray
ACTOCS,
From the picture you posted it appears you did not use the tang screw to mount your base for the tang sight. Did you drill two new holes to attach it? Nice setup--like the traditional looks of it. Appreciate your efforts!
jgray
Yes I drilled and tapped the two mounting holes.
One thing I want to note to you guys about tang sights on the 39. When you take the gun apart for cleaning, you separate the front and rear sights.
When I first tried tang sights on mine it wasn't shooting the tight groups I wanted.
It turned out that I was only tightening the takedown thumb screw as tight as I could with my fingers. That allowed the two frame halves to move enough to let the point of impact move around on the target.
Don't use a screw driver to tighten that thumb screw. It was designed to use a quarter so you don't mess up the screw slot. I'll try to attach a picture of the tool I made for that job.
Then just snug it down tighter than you can with your fingers, and it will return to the same zero point of impact every time after cleaning and reassembly. And shoot tight groups.
-Scott
P.S. Don't be too ham fisted and over tighten it each time or you'll wear out the threads.
-Scott.
One thing I want to note to you guys about tang sights on the 39. When you take the gun apart for cleaning, you separate the front and rear sights.
When I first tried tang sights on mine it wasn't shooting the tight groups I wanted.
It turned out that I was only tightening the takedown thumb screw as tight as I could with my fingers. That allowed the two frame halves to move enough to let the point of impact move around on the target.
Don't use a screw driver to tighten that thumb screw. It was designed to use a quarter so you don't mess up the screw slot. I'll try to attach a picture of the tool I made for that job.
Then just snug it down tighter than you can with your fingers, and it will return to the same zero point of impact every time after cleaning and reassembly. And shoot tight groups.
-Scott
P.S. Don't be too ham fisted and over tighten it each time or you'll wear out the threads.
-Scott.
Attachments
Last edited:
I use a piece of polymer with the exact width to fit the screw. I used to have a brass driver but it could mar that bluing. Works well and won't scratch. There is a guy on epay selling saddle rings that replace the thumbscrew. They look good and it's not any permanent modification. I ordered one and I will check back in with a report when I get it. Is it correct? No but it looks very well done. JMHO and YMMV
RAYBABBSUSMC1949
Member
well I CANNOT SEEM TO FIND HOW TO POST MY PICTURE ?
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
Fast Frank
Member
Rumor has it that The Marlin Firearms division of Remington, under Cerberus, has ceased production of all Marlin products.
The first comments seemed to indicate that it's just for the remainder of 2011.
The stated reason was to deal with quality control issues.
Now, there seems to be some rumor of complete and permanent shutdown.
Big Bummer in either case.
I own Four Marlin rifles, and they will be enough to serve me for the foreseeable future.
Those that don't have some, probably ought to think about that.
The first comments seemed to indicate that it's just for the remainder of 2011.
The stated reason was to deal with quality control issues.
Now, there seems to be some rumor of complete and permanent shutdown.
Big Bummer in either case.
I own Four Marlin rifles, and they will be enough to serve me for the foreseeable future.
Those that don't have some, probably ought to think about that.
kimberkid
Member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,654
Picture needs to be uploaded/hosted at somewhere like photobucket, then paste the link to it in your post with the
getitdone1
Member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2004
- Messages
- 5
Add me. I've had 3 different versions. Shot the Mountie by far the most of any gun I've ever had. Great guns. No better 22 ever made.
Don
Don
Fast Frank
Member
BUMP
This thread is dead!
Anybody seen Nemo lately?
This thread is dead!
Anybody seen Nemo lately?
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