The Marlin 39 Club

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Very nice looking guns there Px15.....I too like the octagon bbls....I have a rifle version ie 20" octagon bbl, curved brass butt plate..brass nose cap.."The Right to Bear Arms 1871-1971" medallion.....I agree the carbine versions would be better handlers for the younger set & be ok even when they grow bigger.
 

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IBD:

Nice rifle there yourself!

I think the shorter barreled Mountie (or Mountie types) are just easier in the field for almost anyone.. I love my full sized 39A's, but those suckers can be heavy over the long haul in the woods..

But as I mentioned before all models of the 39A family are excellent choices for a young person's first rimfire rifle.. I think any young person would be happy with one, and we all know, if maintained properly, they'll last a lifetime, or two... (lol). Or three..

Thanks for the photo of your Marlin, it's beautiful..

Best Wishes,

Jesse
 
When I was a boy about 12 my buddies and I would borrow our dad's guns and shoot rats at the dump. They'd loan us their old ones, so we had a plethora of old beat up .22's most of them pretty worn out. One was a model 1892 Marlin, which is like the 39A. We considered the gun to big and heavy, but a straight shooter, when it shot. There was something wrong with it.

For a boy I think the 39A is too large, long and even a bit heavy. But he'll grow into it, of course, just like his cowboy boots.

For a boy, I'm a fan of a bolt action. I like the fact that they have to watch the bullet being chambered and know better what condition the gun is in. A lever or an auto can be a bit mysterious. A single shot bolt action is probably best for a tyke. Isn't that what we all learned on?
 
When I was a boy about 12 my buddies and I would borrow our dad's guns and shoot rats at the dump. They'd loan us their old ones, so we had a plethora of old beat up .22's most of them pretty worn out. One was a model 1892 Marlin, which is like the 39A. We considered the gun to big and heavy, but a straight shooter, when it shot. There was something wrong with it.

For a boy I think the 39A is too large, long and even a bit heavy. But he'll grow into it, of course, just like his cowboy boots.

For a boy, I'm a fan of a bolt action. I like the fact that they have to watch the bullet being chambered and know better what condition the gun is in. A lever or an auto can be a bit mysterious. A single shot bolt action is probably best for a tyke. Isn't that what we all learned on?

Good advice. Single shot is definitely the way to go for a new shooter, especially a youngster.
 
Not sure just what we have here.....

G’day folks,

I didn’t realize that there were so many variations over the years for the Marlin 39A. A friend brought over his rifle for me to look up a current value. I couldn’t identify the exact model and year from the book. Seeing potential values from $100 to $500 (60% - and this rifle’s condition is actually less than that), I’m looking for some expert help.

It is a ‘takedown’. Buttstock is straight - English shotgun style. Barrel: 24”, round. Barrel markings: The Marlin Firearms Co Est 1870, New Haven Conn. Marlin Model 39A - 22Cal. S. L. & LR. On the barrel, right hand side, just in front of the receiver: an oval with the initials JM. Barrel is tapped for a scope mount: two sets of two screws, left hand side, almost in line with the rear sight.

Stamped on the upper tang: Marlin Model ‘97. The lower tang, where protected by the lever, shows a small amount of brass/gold(?) finish/discoloration. The serial number: 4344xx, is stamped on the underside of the barrel portion of the takedown. No prefixes or suffixes. It seems that the left side of the butt was decorated with an arrow motif at some time. Currently the arrow shape consists of wood plugs glued into holes. The fore end: I would describe as ‘fat’; compared to my own Ithaca Model 72 Saddle Gun.

Condition: poor. Virtually no original finish, fine pitting over all the exterior metal. It appears that the woodwork has been re-varnished at some time. Butt plate - broken. I have not disassembled the rifle, so bore condition is unknown. Action is smooth. Estimate let-off at around 5 pounds, with a finger between the hammer and the firing pin. Hammer moves back just a shade as the trigger is pulled, so I doubt the sear has been messed with. Damaged screw heads indicate someone did ’work on it' sometime. I have not run cartridges through the magazine or fired the rifle.

So, just what do we have here, the verbal model description (Mountie??), when it was made (if really old, safe with modern ammo?) and any estimates of what it is worth. The owner turned down an offer of $70 several months ago. Thank you for any and all comments and assistance.

I can make photographs available at the Google Picasa site if they would help.
 
This was made long, long before the Mountie models.

The Model 1897 was made from 1897 to 1922.
These were made with barrels from 16" to 28" and with straight or pistol grip stocks.
Take-down models bring a 15% to 20% premium.

Assuming it's in 50% condition and doesn't have any special features like Lyman, Marbles, or Beeches sights, value would be around $850 here, plus the 15% to 20% for the take-down feature.

Be SURE and tell the owner NOT to shoot modern high speed ammo in it.
High Speed ammo will break the bolt.
Shoot only Standard Velocity ammo.

The Marin serial numbers up to 1906 are confused and I can't determine the year this one was made.
 
Thank you for the reply.....

Thanks, from both of us, dfariswheel.

Read your reply on Saturday morning and passed it along verbally to the owner that morning in town. He took it well, his wife's jaw dropped! I'll save this page and print it out for him this morning. As of Saturday, no decision as to what he wants to do with the rifle. Our local shooting gallery will have a table at the gun show on Oct. 22/23, he might ask that his 39A be included. We'll see.

This has sure been an education for me, my thanks for that. Something my dad taught me years ago; "The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know."
 
There's some confusion here.

If the rifle is stamped Model 39-A on the barrel it's the later 39-A.
But if it's stamped Model 97 on the tang it would be a Model 1897.
BIG difference.

The Model 39-A was introduced in 1939 and was produced in several forms up until the Model 39-AS in the 1980's.
With a serial number of 4344XX this would probably make it a per-war rifle.
If so, it would have had a color case hardened receiver. After the war, receivers were blued.
If it is a Model 39-A, it's safe to shoot with modern high speed ammo.

I'm not an expert on the finer point of the Marlin's, but there's a chance the rifle may have been re-barreled with a later barrel if it is a Model 1897.

If it is a Model 39-A, value is much lower than for a Model 1897.
 
Ouch. The two ID's are on the rifle - 39A on the barrel, '97 on the upper tang.

It's been 30 years since I worked in a machine shop, so my fingernail is somewhat out of practice: 'steps' between the two parts of the take-down (either side and on the bottom of the receiver) seem to range between .005 and .010. Those mis-matches do seem a little high for a quality rifle.

Assembled from two different weapons? It looks like that may be it. Come the weekend, I hope to have some "spare" time; I'll re-photograph the relevant parts and post them at www followed by picasaweb.google.com/gandcmcdonald/ with a title of 39A. (I pay for 20G of storage, and load most photos full size for details. Saves overloading forums.)
 
My "new" '59 39A, with its Ruger Single Ten buddy-

cowboyset.gif

Love the 39A. Fun to shoot, very accurate. Wish I'da gotten one (or more) years ago. Now to keep my eyes open for a deal on a 39M.
 
sign me up please... ;)

from the central deserts in australia... 2009 remlin 39A but talk about lucky...!

fit n finish just perfect... and works flawlessly...
 

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I may as well face up to it, I'm addicted to the Marlin 39 (and leverguns in general)....

Went down to my gunshop this afternoon, to trade in my Yugo SKS, as I was not completely happy with the accuracy, and cleaning it was annoying (getting the gas system clean in particular

I went in with the object to trade the SKS and ammo towards a Marlin 1895G in .45-70, as the .45-70 round intrigues me......

While I was there, looking over the 95G, I spied a familiar, svelte levergun on the trade counter, getting traded in.... a Marlin 39A

A Marlin 39A with really nice wood without checkering and with the white spacers.....
A Marlin 39A with nice wood without checkering and no crossblock safety!
A Marlin 39A with all that stuff *AND* a offset hammer spur and Williams FP peep sight mounted in the factory side-mount holes!

The only thing it was missing was the front sight hood
bluing was about 97% of new, rifling sharp, and aside from a few minor dings in the stock, it looked almost new....

So, I had to make a decision, I had enough in store credit for one or the other, the .45-70 would cost me about $60 out of pocket, the 39A, a whopping $5 out of pocket...

if I got the .45-70, I'd be adding another caliber to stock, and I'm not sure if I'd even *use* the thing for hunting, it'd be relegated to being a range toy, a range toy with an appetite for expensive ammo, the .45-70 would basically be a toy, wheras the 39A I already had ammo for and I use it both for fun and to keep small varmints under control

So, it came down to practicality or toy... Practicality won

Original non-crossbolt 39A's are not the easiest gun to find, I actually spoke with the previous owner as he was trading it in, and found that the only reason he was trading it is that he just inherited a nice new condition Winchester 9422 from a family member that was liquidating their gun collection, he said if he didn't already have a "better" gun in the Winchester, he'd have kept the 39A....

In fact, as I was waiting for my NICS paperwork to clear, a couple other people complimented me on making a nice purchase, and at least one of them said that if I hadn't bought it, they would have...

So, now my collection of 39A's is up to two now, a 1980 vintage with the Williams peeps (and the original folding semi-buckhorn as well, folded down) and no crossbolt safety, and a 2009 vintage with checkered stock, crossbolt safety and rebounding hammer

I think what I might do is scope the 2009 model, either with a nice Japanese Tasco 4X 32mm fixed scope (the old Japanese made Tascos were actually pretty nice), or maybe put my Bushnell 4-15X 40mm AO Trophy on it, and leave the 1980 vintage rifle with the Williams peeps

Technically, now that I have one of each action setup 39A (rebound/crossbolt model and half-cock safety model) I shouldn't "need" any more 39's

...but as we all know, since when has "need" had anything to do with it, right?

I'll get some pics tomorrow
Time for a function test with some Remington CBees on my backyard range
 
Tombstone Gabby

My best guess is someone mated a 39-A barrel and left receiver with a Model 1897 right receiver.
The mis-match in the two halves of the receivers seems to indicate this, as does the later 39-A features and markings on the left side, and the early Model 1897 marks and features of the right side.

The barrel has been drilled and tapped for a old Marlin barrel scope mount and the receiver top have been drilled and tapped for a scope.
However the receiver side has not been drilled and tapped for a receiver sight.
This may or may not have been a factory job.
This leads me to suspect that the 39-A half is an early version, either pre-war or early post-war

I'm not sure what the brass looking surface is on the lower tang. The tang is one piece with the receiver and is steel. A look inside with the stock off might show the tang to have been brazed on after being broken off, or ????? could just be discolored bluing

The Model 39-A versions would have the serial number stamped on either the top tang or the bottom tang. The Model 39-A should also have the serial number stamped inside the left receiver half below the bolt, so you can figure out when the right side and barrel was made.

The early Marlin serial numbers were confusing and I can't find a resource that tells when an 1897 with serial number 4344XX was made.
In any event the right side of the rifle was a Model 1897 made sometime before 1922.

The left side was a Model 39-A made sometime after 1939. Again, if you disassemble the rifle and look on the inside of the left half, there should be a serial number that should allow figuring out when that half was made.

You still need to figure out what era of bolt is in the rifle. Again, on rifles made before the mid-1930's, you should shoot ONLY Standard Velocity ammo or risk a broken bolt.
Here's a site that shows how to ID the bolt.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/rifles/marlin/rflever.htm

My suggestion is to get on rimfirecentral.com and ask on the Marlin forum for serial number help. Some people there should be able to date the two halves and give you more info.

As for value, probably not a lot due to the mis-match and the poor condition of the stock. The mis-fit of the stock indicates it's been sanded down or replaced. Look inside the stock tang areas for a serial number.

As for "How's this happen", this is at least the third or fourth Marlin I've seen over the years either as a mis-match or as just one half of the rifle.
These were easy to disassemble and often got broken down for storage as the two pieces.
Things happen and one half disappears.
 
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dfariswheel:

Took the rifle up to the local Shooting Gallery this morning - two chaps who are "into" collecting had a look. Seems it is a '97. Condition: one gave it 60%, one 50%. Three year old Blue Book says upwards of $850. I get to clean it up some for the gun show this weekend. It will be tagged for standard velocity ammo only.

Did take it apart last night - the only stamping inside the barrel portion of the receiver was the Patent date - June 8, 1897. Ran a mop through the barrel - no pitting or rust. That sort of surprised me.

Many thanks for your assistance, I learned a lot about a series of rifles that I've had no personal experience with.
 
dfariswheel,

Had a question regarding my 39A Mountie: The inner magazine (brass) tube retaining pin and slot that it twists into to lock it in seem a little looser than what I feel it should actually be; although it is not real loose, it's a bit looser than I would like. I read something on another forum about very very slightly bowing the inner tube thereby tightening it. What's the proper way to fix this?

Thanks,

jgray
 
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I'm not sure I understand the problem.

Do you mean the steel pin in the brass inner tube is loose in the tube?

And/or the inner tube lock pin is too loose in the key way in the steel outer tube?
 
jgray, I had a rossi pump action .22 that had a loose feeling lock for the mag tube and I slipped a small rubber o ring on it to give it a bit of spring tension....worked great. Originaly when it was loaded had some tension and was ok but with an unloaded tube it was pretty loose.
 
Nice to see the clubhouse still up and running!


Special thanks to dfariswheel for his knowledge and continued willingness to answer questions. Thank you, sir.
 
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