The Mosin Nagant Club

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So you're not going to drill & tap a rail in place?

From the looks of it you might run into trouble with the bolt handle, it should be muuuuch flatter in that first 'knuckle' otherwise its going to knock the bottom of your scope. If i were you, id cut off that first 1/2 inch or so from the shaft, and weld that on there, so its more flush. You'd have to cut a notch in your stock to accommodate that though.

But that's just me being paranoid about clearance.
 
i will take more pictures for you. i have notched the stock for the handle. i dont think i could prossibly get the bolt any closer.

no im not tapping a rail on top. ive seen them and do not like the looks of them on the nagants so im going to try the sidemount inside. i have not seen anyone do a sidemount yet so figured i would try. im not going to mount to the barrel but to the stock. it will probably be for my best interest to mount it to the side of the barrel so nothng moves but i think it will be fine.
 
I HIGHLY suggest tapping it into the barrel. Like, I can guarantee it will not hold a zero if you tap it just into the stock. It may feel secure, but wood swells and contracts with humidity, even that could throw off your accuracy.
As for the bolt handle, I think you can cut off the first like 3/8ths of an inch or so from the first joint, im just worried about clearance for your scope.
 
well i been thinking about the mount and i think i could possibly mount thru the stock into the barrel. this way its just another screw holding the stock in place. gun still in early stages. i can still do whatever i want. lol
 
no offense taken. i want advice! this is my first one ive ever modified like this. a friend told me i made a mistake yesterday. i told him about the muzzle brake i installed. he asked if i fixed the end of the barrel with a new crown. "rounded the end" so that the bullet stays on a striaght path. so i gotta go back and fix that. im going to try and get this baby to hit as many yards as possib;le.
 
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finally. finally... i have gotten the scope mounted. the one i bought failed. epic fail. i got the wronge size for the scope i had.


so i made one out of s.s. 12gauge. let me know what you think.

i would have shot it tonight but its dark now.

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what did you do? looks like stock has been cut down and a pistol grip from a shotgun installed?
 
I had a method to my madness, one each of the model year, with my birthyear in the serial #. I liked the ones with the cycle and hammer logo, but the other ones shoot too. I picked up four of the them for 40 each at Knob Creek in 2004, and it started the addiction. But, I like good old rifles...
 
Hartmen, is that... stable?

It looks like from my perspective, that it a poked it, it would bounce.
It looks a lot less 'beefy' than the one on dirtyjims supermosin 8000
 
yes its very stable but i do plan on taping a few more screws into the barrel to be on the safe side. i would hate the fact if the thing does not stay on zero. the stainless steel plate i used is 12gauge. you can not bend this stuff with your hands without somekind of levelage from a tool. my work bent the piece in a press for me. i just put the two screws and took a picture because i was so excited.

im also thinking in the back of my head......maybe a cheek rest? i know its a afterthought now after ive gotten the stock prett ymuch done but i dunno. i think something could be done. any ideas?



once i get back from the louisville show today i plan on giving it a couple test rounds. im hoping i can find a bore sighter at the show to save on ammo.
 
what did you do? looks like stock has been cut down and a pistol grip from a shotgun installed?
the original stock was cracked at the wrist so i just chopped it off. the rear section is made from 5/16" rod that goes about 2" into the wrist area of the stock. the pistol grip is from an ar-15 & the cheek rest is sheetmetal.
the entire rear section of the buttsock is going to be reworked & the wrist area & pistol grip is going to be reshaped before i call it done. its also going to get a detatchable fore end that mounts to the parker hale bi-pod spud.
i'm going to make another stock similar to the wind runner for my q/c barrel mosin project.

this one showed up at my doorstep on tuesday. matching, very good condition 1928 hex receiver 91/30 with all the accessories from southern ohio gun.
looking at the bore and chamber the gun looks almost unfired.
the only bad thing is i ordered it as a donor for a 22-250 project but it's way to nice to whack it in the head and gut it out so i'll have to order another one and hope its not quite as nice
if i have time i'll take it to the range tomorrow.
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dirtyjim what are your plans for the new rifle?
since its matching & in very good shape it will go into my collection and help keep my finn m91 & chinese t53 company.
i also have a finn m28/76 target rifle coming in about a week
 
Hartmen - I was thinking just that! Is the scope too high?

You can make an adjustable one by cutting like a 1/2in by 2in rectagle near the top of your stock, then drilling a 1/2in (maybe 5/8) hole for a threaded rod. Insert the threaded rod down the hole, and thread it through a 1/2 in nut thats inside the rectangle, and weld the other side to a cheek rest, add some support bars.... BOOM! Instant adjustable cheek rest!

Protip: Do the same process to the shoulder rest for an adjustable length-of-pull

Ill post the plans after i draw them with my crayon :rolleyes:

EDIT: See attachment. I just embarrassed myself.
Buy some hardware, drill some holes, done!
 

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its a little high for me. for my dominate right eye. for my left eye though its perfect. im right handed like most people so using my left eye is kinda odd.
 
This followed me home recently..... The scope already installed ;)

Its a reproduction, but seems well done...... 1943 izzy. The lack of scope serial numbers gives it away.
 

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Mosin Monster = MosinStein

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Well lets get started where I began. I needed a rifle for hunting and didn't have any money as a normal poor college student usually ends or starts. I went to Gander Mountain (first mistake) looking for a cheap rifle that I could kill a deer with one well placed shot and hoped for something that could actually hit it. Presumably a bolt action surplus rifle. Now I'm just like anyone who can appreciate an antique, muscle car, gun or anything old that keeps it's original value or served a purpose greater than the steel it was made with so.......

This is were I found my Mosin. It had already had some holes tapped on top and a cheap scope mount hanging off of it. I assumed after the "experts" at gander certified it, they certainly would be giving me a gun that worked well (second mistake). After I took it home I realized......


1. I paid too much for my surplus rifle, I should have shopped around (of course that's what separates good consumers from bad ones, I've since learned to be a good good consumer).

2. The scope mount hanging off was like that because it was mounted crooked (yeah, duh!) and one of the screws was stripped out anyways. Way to go previous owner! No wonder they'd trade it in to Gander for pennies on the dollar.

3. The ejector leaf spring thingy was worn or "off in a way" and wouldn't eject the bullets away from the chamber, they kind of fell to the side as I was reloading. Thanks again Gander Mountain! I now DON'T trust your certification or expertise on anything.

4. Last but not least I could barely call it accurate. Some shots nailed the bulls-eye but others just stunk. No consistency whatsoever. Some were even off the paper. Partly from the heavy trigger pull but also I believe the barrel hadn't been thoroughly cleaned ever. I actually cleaned a small wal-mart grocery bag full of patches that were completely covered in barrel crud. I ended up using brake parts cleaner (keep away from plastic, hands, paint and inhalation).
Keep in mind I would have loved to just hang it on the wall but sometimes I feel like what's the point of hanging something on the wall that is almost useless.


So enough moaning and groaning about the problems with the gun.... I proceeded with the improvise, overcome and adapt attitude that I'm sure many sporsterized surplus rifle users past and present can share.I also proceeded with an extremely limited budget which included ramen noodles as well as access to a drill press, tap and die set, welder and a lathe at a metals/sculpture shop I have access to. :evil:


1. I lathed off the last few inches of the barrel including the front site. Then crowned it with the best (sharpest) lathe bit I could find. I faced of the end of the barrel with the bit slightly angle to square from the inside out to make sure I didn't get any burrs on the inside of the barrel while it was shearing off the metal. I cut a tapper inwards towards the center as many guns have this style and should help prevent burring or denting of the inside of the muzzle (I assume).


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2. I had my older brother weld a square steel tube cut open onto the receiver and over the bolt and drilled/tapped a tactical rail to it. Also doubles as a carry handle. No welding further to the front onto the barrel section as I think this is a bad idea (minimal welding = less warp-age).
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3. Drilled and tapped a 10-32 screw to the base of the bolt housing through the other side so that I could turn a screw down and put tension on the leaf spring/trigger sear in place. This made the trigger sear height adjustable and gave me a much shorter/easier trigger pull (note this could make the gun more prone to accidentally discharge). I couldn't get it to "accidentally release" the firing pin by banging on the table although that's not exactly mil spec testing either.
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4. Then I bought one of those synthetic stocks from ATI and painted for personal reasons, Honestly the green will probably get painted over next time I'm layed off but for now it's alright. Just as well I put a coat of engine enamel over all the external steel gun parts. The enamel just looked nice as well as covered blemishes but greatest of all reasons the moisture basically beads off it with out any additional coatings (self explanatory) and should hold up to lubes and most cleaning agents (except brake parts cleaner).

5. Left the ejector leaf spring really cause I really only need one good shot and of all the shooting has actually only jammed like twice from it, If it does, I guess I only get one deer. I might replace it if I find some cheap mosin parts but not going to attempt a modification on a part that small and probably cheap.


All in all I'd say it's pretty "sportsterized" now. But really, I didn't set off wanting this, I just wanted a cheap "good shooter". But once you start you just kind of keep going. Someone once said "If you're going to do something, do it well!" or maybe, If your going to hack apart a relic, antique or in this case a Mosin Nagant, at least make it accurate and work a little better then the last guy did. It's not super accurate but it will do just a hair or so under 2" moa at 100yds which is a lot better than the first shots I took and I think I have just over $200 into it counting the price of the gun $139.00, $45 for the stock, $10 for the rail and a little more for some miscellaneous parts. The customization was heavily reliant on machinery and tools I do not own but if you can find someone with a shop you're set. Took the scope I had on it off and am looking for a smaller lighter one as the gun is pretty heavy especially with the one I had on it.
Was trying to figure out a custom rear peep site for it as I can have that and a scope mount (ideal for hunting) but am waiting till I see or think of something really good and cheap.

The biggest investment I have into it is time. I shot a white tail deer with it 3 years ago and the bullet blew right through even with soft point ammo and made a loud whistling through the woods sound, I blame it on over penetration, the gun sure does pack a punch and stopped the deer quite fast. It's not worth selling and I can't think of anything that would make it a much better gun, if I did, I wouldn't hesitate to modify it as long as it was inexpensive. It's since paid for itself and budget increases has allowed for much nicer additions to my collection. It serves it's purpose.



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Whats up with all you guy's inaccurate Mosins?

I'd kill to have a scope on mine because I can do minute-of-paper-plate at 100yds. And that's with a Russky stock 91/30
 
For what its worth...my hex receiver Russian 91 with a B-Square mount and Leupold 2x extended eye relief scope puts a round dead center at 100 yd. I mean: overlapping the point of aim. Bullet: Sierra 150 gr, 311 dia, powder H380, charge...not telling. Admittedly, the POI drifts to the left as the barrel warms up, but not that much. At maximum deflection it still goes less than 1" from POA. These rifles are not junk...properly loaded, they are capable of excellent accuracy at a price that puts any competition to shame.
 
i would have not welded that onto the reciver. that weakens the metal of the gun and could cause it to fail later....blow up in face fail. its the reason i tapped my scope.
 
i made up a custom one off adjustable cheek rest today at my work. all out of stainless steel. tigged together. in so freakin excited. now when i raise the gun to my shoulder and place my cheek on the rest my eye is exactly where it is suppose to be and my crosshairs automatically come into focus. :eek: yay


my task now is to clean everything up with some super fine sandpaper and make a decision on weather to paint or stain the stock.
 
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