Trail gun: I need some input!

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The classic gun for practicing with .38Spl and shooting Magnums only occasionally for protection is the K frame 19 or 66 S&W. Or maybe the fixed sight models 13 or 65 for a more streamlined .357Mag gun.

Yeah, I'd agree with this post. S&W M19 or M66 with a 4" bbl is a good all around gun for trail use, really, it's a good all around gun for a whole lot of things. If you are concerned with having a more compact revolver, you could get it in 2.5" bbl (did they ever make a factory 3" bbl M19 or M66?) but my choice would be the 4" gun. And I think, overall, the adjustable sight M19 and M66 would be a better choice over the fixed sight 13 and 65 guns, as the adjustable sight guns will give you more "versatility".
 
The 3" SP really is an ideal trail gun. Wish Ruger made it with adjustable sights. Have to go 4" for that.

The SP101 in .327 Federal Magnum had a 3" barrel and adjustable sights. It also has 6 rounds in the cylinder. Load it with .32 S&W Long for plinking and .327 for serious stuff.

I have a 4" SP101 in .32 H&R magnum and it is a fun gun to shoot.
 
A pair of the military load bearing suspenders, attached to the belt, can make the heavier revolvers quite pleasant to carry in the field. Maybe you'll like the one you have. OYE
 
The classic gun for practicing with .38Spl and shooting Magnums only occasionally for protection is the K frame 19 or 66 S&W. Or maybe the fixed sight models 13 or 65 for a more streamlined .357Mag gun

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The thing with the K frame guns is that they are slim and light enough to carry well and yet they are heavy enough to soak up more of the recoil. From having shot some stout .38Spl in a 5 shot J frame gun I'd say that the recoil of a 158gn .357 out of a 4 inch K frame is about the same or near enough. So any followup shots become a little easier to control and aim with a K frame gun vs something lighter and smaller and shorter.

At least that's how I see it.

This just makes more sense to me. Cops have carried K framed smiths on a daily basis for years. No reason to think a trail gun is any different than a beat gun. Personally, I see no problem with fixed sights. Actually, that would be my preference. Add Some basic targa stocks and call it good.
 
Sounds like all really need is the right holster for your 627.
Get a Simply Rugged Sourdough Pancake.
I regularly carry either a 25-5 or a 624 in one and they just disappear, including the weight. Of course you need a good belt for it to work right.
If you want an excuse to buy another gun, go for the SP101. Great little carry gun. They do make a 4" version.
 
Danadae -

You already have one of the best trail handguns out there. I would not go with either the 327 or SP101. The 327 kicks like a mule and the short barrel drains way too much from the powerful cartridge. The SP101 is, well . . . is more of a CCW.

If you absolutely have to have a new trail handgun, get the TRR8. Right around 38 oz fully loaded, so you'll shave 1/2 lb off. You won't sacrifice anything and will gain a little bit more energy out of the cartridge due to the additional inch of the barrel.
 
Indeed! I would buy one in a second if I could find one at a reasonable Ruger price and not the price of a P&R collectible S&W which is what they seem to be bringing; IF you can find one!

Given the OP's parameters I'd say it's pretty hard to discount a 3" SP101.
I have a 3" 386 MTN lite which is ideal but, like the SP's in .327 practically a Unicorn these days :)
 
I have a 4.2" SP101 which is a darn nice little gun, enough weight to damp recoil, but still light, thin & compact for carry. It makes a nice belt gun addition to my CCW KLCR & nice companion piece to my 77/.357. Love the fire sights, only change I'm thinking of making is adding a Crimson Trace grip.
 
Did I miss it or has no one mentioned using a single action. I prefer the heft and feel of 4 5/8" .45 colt Blackhawk. But there are several sheriff and store keeper models out there that have shorter barrels and without the ejector rod. These come in a bit lighter and you still have a potent round. Yes, recoil can be more, but I have noted that when one's adrenalin is pumping, recoil isn't even a factor.
 
I added the S&W model 60-14 Pro Series (product #178013) 357 magnum to my EDC lineup for wear around my back woods. It is a 23.2 ounce J-frame with 3" barrel with sides milled flat and Tritium night sights. I replaced the factory wood grips with Pachmayr Diamond Pro grips because the wood grips split the web of my hand while firing full house magnums. The Pachmayr grips are larger than boot grips and squishy enough to make firing 180 grain hard cast WNFP bear loads doable. I typically have first round up to be Speer snake load, followed by either 180 grain hand loads or Buffalo Bore or Grizzly 180 grain WNFPGC heavy magnums. When I go to town, I swap out with 158 grain JHP 38 Special +P antipersonnel loads. This is a CCW companion to my Ruger GP100 Match Champion that I pack when hill walking in the summer.
 
I want the one on the bottom left:what:

Of the revolvers you're showing, I'd go with the SP101. But if you could move from revolver to auto, I'd rather have a G29.

Tuckerdog1
 
OP, you seem to have a predisposition for revolvers for a trail gun which I don't necessarily fault but have you considered a Glock 27? Small, light, accurate. 9+1 rounds and can use any of the larger .40 mags for backup. There are plenty of effective .40 woods load from Buffalo Bore, DoubleTap, Underwood. etc. If you hand load there are even more choice.
For that matter a Kahr CM40 or CW40 would be a good choice as well. They are small, light and surprisingly accurate with well supported chambers that accommodate hot hand loads well. CW40's can be found for <$300 right now online. 16oz (unloaded-20oz loaded) and 6+1 of hot .40 is nothing to sneer at.
 
Get another 627 pro for the other hip. This will balance you out and you will no longer notice the weight.
 
I used to pack a 44 until I blew my knee out hiking. Now I pack something a little lighter... my Security Six.



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I agree that the OP's current gun is too big and heavy to live with on the trail. Although L frames aren't exactly small, my 681 is manageable for me. I didn't like my Ruger sp101 - couldn't shoot it accurately. Sold it.
 
What about a Glock 20? Ballistics are better than a .357 yet shoots softer. Fifteen rounds available and 15 more if you carry a spare magazine. What is not to like against the black bears, coyotes, and thugs.
 
I'm a revolver fan, but.......

What about a Glock 20? Ballistics are better than a .357 yet shoots softer. Fifteen rounds available and 15 more if you carry a spare magazine. What is not to like against the black bears, coyotes, and thugs.

I'll go with pikepole20 on this one. It might be a Central NC thing.

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Glock 23 .40 not bad either.

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The auto pistol suggestions make me want to ask, "What exactly are the criteria for a trail/woods gun?" Maybe something like this...

NEEDS

--Rock solid reliability
--Powerful enough to defend against wildlife likely to be encountered***
--Ability to serve as a hunting/survival weapon if need be (small game and birds up to medium game like wild boar and deer)
--Lowest possible weight that still meets all of the above

***The caveat here is that no handgun is a great choice against large bears, for example, or against large game like elk or moose. Even in grizzly country some folks will be fine with less powerful handgun and a can of bear spray, while other folks will absolutely have to have that four-pound .454 Casull revolver.

DOES NOT NEED

--Large magazine capacity
--Fancy optics or lasers

One consideration on caliber that I don't thing has been mentioned--if you want to use pistol-caliber shotshells, then the smaller rounds have very little capacity. Looking at this table from the CCI web site -- http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/pestcontrol_specialty.aspx -- it looks like a 9mm shotshell is pretty useless, .40 is only a little better, .45 is pretty good and any of the revolver calibers are almost as good or better.

Based on all of the above, I think it's very hard to beat a .357 revolver, though .38 +P is probably almost as good and .44 Special/Magnum is the best for shotshells. These give you the option of high-power loads optimized for deep penetration (FMJ or hard-cast wadcutter), high-power loads for terminal effect (hollow point), and low-power hunting loads and shotshells and it's very easy to switch between loads with no worries about cycling the action. The other nice thing about a revolver is that all those variations are readily available as factory loads, even very light "cowboy" loads for .44 Special.

I suppose that an auto pistol could do all of that, as long as you are willing to accept that the low-power hunting loads and shotshells may have to be single-loaded and may not cycle the gun properly. Also, the very low power loads will probably have to be handloads though shotshells are not hard to find.

For a revolver, any 3-4", 5-7 shot, .357 or .38 +P should be just fine, it all comes down to personal preferecnes and how much weight you want to carry. The Ruger LCRx 3" .38 +P stands out or maybe a Charter Arms Bulldog in .44 Special. A full-size double-stack auto pistol may not be the best choice if weight is a consideration but something like the Kahr CT45 might work very well--economical, reliable, light, decent shotshell capacity, though you'd need some very light handloads to leave any meat on the squirrel. ;-)
 
It has been my experience that shot shells in handguns are next to useless for anything except snakes within about 5 yards. Most small game is not that obliging. About the only round I can think of that could be used for small game would be round nose .38 special. That is not going to be effective on larger creatures. The original poster mainly wanted the gun for protection against larger animals and thugs and hobos. I would opt for something with good sights (maybe even night sights) and adequate power. A good revolver with a 4" barrel is hard to beat as is a semiautomatic of sufficient caliber.
 
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