why buy a .38 and not a .357?

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CRridermike

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why

i was just wondering why someone would buy a .38 and not a .357? the .357 will still shoot the .38's and if yo need more power throw some .357's in it.
 
I can think of only two reasons for this.

1) some really cool guns only come in .38 (detective specials, old j-frames etc) as well as some of the neat ultra lightweight guns.

2) some people who carry firearms as part of their job have limitations restricting them from carrying a gun that can be loaded with .357 (security guards in florida are one example i believe).

Asside from that some people believe that a .357 chamber will be somehow less accurate when loaded with .38s than a dedicated .38 gun will be. I'm not sure i buy that though.
 
More cleaning needed of the chambers due to the shorter case of the .38 compared to the .357.
 
After much trigger time, I eventually learned to control the 38+P out of a Airweight snubbie. I don't think I will reach the same level of proficiency with an Airlite 357. I'm just not man enough I guess :eek:. There is no need for me to pay extra for the magnum option. Plus, 38 j-frames are just really cool!:cool:
 
Why?!?

For me, its mostly because there are so many fine target revolvers in .38 special. Here are a couple classic "K-38s".

14-4

14_4l.jpg

15-6

15_6l.jpg

And don't forget CCW...

642-2

642_2r.jpg


Joe
 
If one is on a severe budget and comes across a 38 of a good type in really good condition, it may be considerably cheaper due to being "just a 38".

Remember that in some states, the supply of used guns is being deliberately screwed with via meaningless "safety test laws" (California, Mass, etc.).
 
aeroscout,

.38s in .38/.357 = No Problem.

Clean cylinders after each use to avoid carbon/lead build up which can make it difficult to load .357s after shooting a lot of .38s.

.38s are good for the gun and good for the shooter also. :p

Bill
 
If you are shooting a lot of 38Spls, and then want to shoot 357's in the same session, take a 357 Brass, and shove it into the cylinder, and rotate it a few times. This will get the crud loose and will reduce the pressure caused by 38Spl soot.

I personally only by 357's and not 38's. ..

because I can shoot 38/357 out of a 357, but not the other way around. Logistically superior!
 
No everyone wants every gun to shoot .357. Same reason I'm currently in the market for an older S&W .44spl. Don't want a 29 or a 629, I don't want to shoot .44mag out of it.

Contrary to popular belief, the .38 isn't dead and it's still a good round.
 
The little diamondbacks are quite nice to shoot! Mine is over 25 years old under my hand and had a previous owner before me.

colts2.jpg
 
I bought a couple of Smith 38's lately because I already have 357's. Something different to shoot (old school). More guns equal more fun!
 
Sometimes it comes down to ecomomic's. Smith & Wesson M10's can be bought police surplus for a song; less than $150.00, for a home defense gun. They are accurate and reliable and most if not all have little wear on the inside even though they may have most of the outside finish gone. Go to about the cheapest S&W in .357 and you go up to $250.00. As the earlier posts stated .357's in a J frame hurt on both ends and aren't my idea of a ideal handgun. :(
 
I work as a corrections officer and our issue gun is the S&W Model 64 or Model 10, depending on what you draw at the time. I'm in the market for a good used Model 10 or 64 as a practice gun.
 
I've found that the extra steel on even smaller .357's tends to make them impractical for CCW. OTOH even medium frame .38 specials, esp. the old classics, are light enough to swing on a shoulder holster.

Plus, you can get some downright amazing deals on old .38's. For example, a first or second generation Colt SAA will run you a fortune. But move ahead a generation to the Official Police or Police Positive Special and you can get a mint condition revolver for under $200. Why the collectors disregard the great .38's of the 20's - 50's is beyond me. But I shouldn't complain too loudly.
 
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