Using motor oil on guns.

Break-free CLP will remove rust if left long enough, motor oil will just prevent it. I had a pistol with some surface rust that I sprayed with break free and put in a ziplock bag until I could get it refinished, tucked it away and forgot about it. When I remebered it, the rust was gone.

SleazyRider said:

After changing the oil in my cars, I overturn the "empty" cans to drain every last drop into a clean container overnight. Then I put the oil into plastic syringes, the kind used as glue applicators. You'd be surprised at how much oil is leftover in 5 cans---enough to lube my guns for several years.

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I do the same. Not just motor oil, but transmission fluid, gear oil, lucas, etc. All goes in the same jug.

Work and home used to be a 100 mile round trip, I managed to collect almost a gallon. Since i would never end up using it all on guns, I put some of it in the engine of my beater truck when its running low...

The lady wears contacts, the empty jugs for her contact solution work well. Pain to get the lid off though.

I've heard this being done many a time. I wouldn't hesitate to do it on my old milsurp guns. My Yugo SKS could probably run with bacon grease as a lube!

I've had fine results with M1 20w-50. A bit thicker so I use less and it stays put. The detergents help with cleaning it seems.

ATF would be preferable to dino motor oil. It does a good job of cleaning and lubricating and is designed to prevent corrosion.

If you really want to save money use used ATF.

A drop or three off the dipstick when you check the level would be plenty for most handguns.

You can get the stuff in small tubes and applicator bottles labeled for "Guns" or you can mix your own.

It was my experience that if you bought lubes especially designed for "Guns" it was pretty expensive, like anywhere from $5-$12/oz.

I bought one quart each of Mobil 1 5-30, STP, ATF. Mixed 1 part Mobil, STP, and 2 parts ATF. It works awesome! the STP keeps it where you put it, and at $.24/oz I am sold!! If I dont spill my stash I will never need anymore!

I also use Peak Synthetic grease, mixed 5parts to 1part NAPA Copper Anti-seize. Kinda reminds me of Glock Gold grease!

If your stuck on labels go for the Frog Lubes, and other big brand names.

I like mine better.

be safe

Why the preference for synthetic?

And why to this "ATF would be preferable to dino motor oil."?

MudPuppy said:

Why the preference for synthetic?

And why to this "ATF would be preferable to dino motor oil."?

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In the early 2000s I did some consulting work for a company that made motor oil additives. As such, I got to see some data comparing synthetic motor oil to normal motor oil. They used to do these pin and v block tests with different lubricants. It was quite clear from these tests that the pins that were lubricated with synthetic motor oil showed less wear. I've been using synthetic motor oil ever since in my car. I could see a Similar argument bing made for synthetic use in firearms. Now, I don't think 99% of us will ever shoot a gun enough to wear it out no matter what we lube it with.

stchman said:

Hoppe's #9 is a powder solvent, not a lubricant.

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Hoppes9 sells gun lubricants/oils also. I've been using it to lube my firearms after cleaning with CLP and Hoppes9 cleaner for years with no issue.

Motor oil should work ok for guns too, but I've never tried it.

Totally get it for automotive application (drive "sports cars" - the $200 dealer oil change is an expense that I don't skimp on), but does it matter for firearm uses?

I used to buy the name brand gun oils but have switched over to ATF. Now slide grease is a different story.

I've been using 0w-20 synthetic for over five years now.

I use motor oil on my guns and gun oil in my cars.

Those petroleum engineers starting at $100K-$150K out of college who specify different compounds and additives to tailor the oils for specific uses have no idea what they're doing.

The lady wears contacts, the empty jugs for her contact solution work well. Pain to get the lid off though.

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Try squeezing the bottle as much as possible and then let the suction fill the bottle as far as it can - little easier than trying to get the lid off....

just an FYI; 20w50 is a little thick for ar's had to switch to 5w30

I've been using straight non-synthetic 30w for a couple decades.

It smells, especially when it gets hot.

I never have liked the super runny gun oils here in the Gulf Coast heat.

If I ever run out of my supply of #9, Maybe I`ll try face lotion or better yet,
bacon grease. Might even give Hydraulic fluid a go.

That`s if I ever run out of #9.

I haven't BOUGHT a lube for guns in years. I think my last was during the Militec-1 fad. I noticed that it was originally a gear drive lube additive, so I dumped it in my big old can of surplus Oil, Lubricating and Preservative. I also mixed some of that surplus OLP with drippings from a bottle of Lucas Oil treatment for where I want higher viscosity and have some Mobil 1 + STP for even heavier.

I do use some Real Gun Oil. But I don't buy it, I have a lot of little sample packets of Brownell's Friction Defense and a bottle of FP10 from match "goodie bags".

I even have a little packet of Froglube which has been kind of underwhelming. I gave a barrel the full treatment with precleaning, heat, and soak. It still leads. I'll be glad when that batch of bullets is gone - I am too cheap to throw them away or melt them down - and I can move on to modern coatings and good lubes.

I have used motor oil since the 70's. None of those old guns have any issues as a result of using it. It's $3 a quart for the good stuff or at least it was the last time I bought a quart. A quart lasts a LONG time.
Or you can pay $9 for a 1/2 pint of the "gun oil". Maybe there is a chemist or petroleum engineer that can tell us exactly what the chemical difference is between the different oils. My guess is that any "oil" will do just fine as a lubricant.

I used to buy the name brand gun oils but have switched over to ATF. Now slide grease is a different story.

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Regarding slide grease check out Lucas Red & Tacky #2, looks and works the same as far as I can tell as Brian Enos grease. I have both.

Ed's Red to clean, Moble 1 to lube.

I use motor oil on my guns and gun oil in my cars.

Those petroleum engineers starting at $100K-$150K out of college who specify different compounds and additives to tailor the oils for specific uses have no idea what they're doing.

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Not to disrespect anyone on here who is what I call, overly educated, but I do not need a degree in petroleum engineering. It is common sense that a lubricant made for high heat applications such as gasoline engines would work in other high heat applications such as firearms. Since the object is to lubricate and reduce wear it is safe to assume they are interchangeable to a degree. I would venture to say that because there is a lot more money put into researching motor oil than gun oil it is probably a better product.

MudPuppy said:

Why the preference for synthetic?

And why to this "ATF would be preferable to dino motor oil."?

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Synthetic is superior

MudPuppy said:

Totally get it for automotive application (drive "sports cars" - the $200 dealer oil change is an expense that I don't skimp on), but does it matter for firearm uses?

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Do yourself a favor and change the oil/filter yourself.

I don't think it really matters much for firearm uses. People who use motor oil typically do so because it is less expensive per ounce than lubes marketed for firearms. I don't think it works any better, you can just get more of it for less (or just use leftover when you use 1/2 quart increments to do your oil change or whatever)

Gun Lube

I only use Sperm Whale Oil

Just be sure to get it where it's needed! https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152193217935872