Best Synthetic Motor Oil Weight For Guns

[Tirod]

For range use whatever works. It's definitely not rocket science. ATF is in some circles considered even better as it's 60% detergent and when used in gas action rifles keeps residue from sticking as much. One a per quart basis auto lubes are really dirt cheap, comparing the usual 2-3 oz gun oil purchase can be nearly the same price.

On another perspective motor oils aren't always the optimum solution - they often have scent added to identify them and to prevent the unknowledgeable from ingesting them. ATF is one good example. It flat out stinks, even new, and it is in my experience a great way to let deer know exactly where your are, or tell them that your highly camouflaged figure is a danger.

Goes to be careful what you ask for. We have a large number of threads on using motor oil for lube, and I have done it myself - but its not that much money we are saving when the results are less than practical. As the poster who did the math points out - guns do not go thru nearly the same kinds of stress that an internal combustion motor does. It doesn't make the oil you choose "better" simply because it's overkill for the application. Cheap doesn't hurt any, tho.

 

[JohnKSa]

Should I stick with this weight or look at a different viscosity range?

If you are already going to buy something different, and "if you must use something from the auto parts store, ATF performs better for firearms use on every count".

 

[wanderinwalker]

If it works, use it!

I've been lubing the slide rails of my 1911s with white lithium grease. Why? Because it doesn't run out of the gun when holstered and I had a tube of the stuff in my bicycle maintenance kit when I thought "Gee, I don't like how the oil runs out of my 1911s..." Lately I've been tempted to use some 20W as lube on an AR bolt carrier; I think after reading this I'll go ahead and give it a try. It was $5 for a quart to keep the mower topped off, and there's 80-90% of the bottle left.

 

[kBob]

Zerodefect,

Wait, you use your case resizing lube with ATF and Pink Grease on your firearm? What would Mr. Granatelli say? Do they makes STP lozenge stickers small enough to put on your guns' grips or butt plates?

Sounds good to me. When I first started reloading I took the dribs from one of the old STP oil treatment cans to soak an ink pad to roll cases on with and an old t-shirt to remove excess before resizing.

I also on occasion at the range would pull the transmission dip stick from my old Ford for a drop of ATF for a gun. Good reason to wear eye protection though.

Lacking anything else on occasion I used a dab of Vasoline Petroleum Jelly on an M-1 Rifle or carbine bolt lug. Not as good as heavier machine greases, but worked for a bit. I also used that to protect my knives from rust, wipe it on, wipe off so there was just enough to leave a greasy fingerprint if touched, then wipe that print off.

Speaking of greasy stuff, think I 'll drop by Hardees for a Breakfast Chicken biscuit for me and my 1911. Just joking about the 1911.....though I wonder.....

-kBob

 

[CDW4ME]

Are you kidding me? How much does 5 drops of Mobil 1 synthetic cost where you live?

http://www.traditionaloven.com/culinary-arts/volume/convert-liquid-quart-qt-us-to-drop.html

1 quart = 18,927 drops
1 quart approximate cost $6 (Vavoline full synthetic 5W30 cost $25 for 5 quart at Wal-Mart)

Lets just call it a penny.

 

[Purple Bikerr]

"... Synthetic oil is just too expensive. .

And how expensive is Hoppes, if you buy it by the quart. Let's see, $2.49 a 4 oz. bottle, 8 bottles equals a quart, times $2.49. Umm...$19.92 a quart.

Yeah, A $6.00 quart of synthetic oil is way too expensive. I'd stick with the Hoppes.

 

[chicharrones]

On another perspective motor oils aren't always the optimum solution - they often have scent added to identify them and to prevent the unknowledgeable from ingesting them. ATF is one good example. It flat out stinks, even new, and it is in my experience a great way to let deer know exactly where your are, or tell them that your highly camouflaged figure is a danger.

An excellent point that I forget to consider.

 

[gspn]

So far, it's been flawless when I shot in a rare match that was sub-zero.

Should I stick with this weight or look at a different viscosity range?

If it's been flawless under every condition, why would you even consider a change? By definition it's working perfectly.

If you're asking questions like this then you've got too much time on your hands. Go shoot, or come over here and help me clean my garage.

 

[doubleh]

"It's been flawless". I don't understand why you even asked this question. When I find something that works every time I stick with it until it doesn't. Then I'll start looking for answers. If it's flawless I see no need to change anything. Just keep on doing what you have been doing.

 

[AJumbo]

What weight? Whatever's on sale.

 

[hdwhit]

Tony k wrote:
I read in other threads where people thought motor oil was a better lubricant than rust preventative.

That opinion is based on an incomplete or inaccurate understanding of 1) how iron oxidizes and 2) the composition of refined petroleum "oils".

Iron oxidizes when it is exposed to oxygen (which is present in the air although other chemicals can supply it as well) in the presence of a material that will provide an appropriate the electrical gradient (i.e. water, sale, etc.). Any oil will work as a rust preventative because it creates a barrier between the oxygen in the air and the underlying iron.

Light machine oil is simply a low viscosity oil distilled from petroleum. It may or may not have additives to prevent it from oxidizing and getting thick and gummy, suspend moisture or other impurities, and minimize thermal and mechanical breakdown of the molecules. A motor oil is will usually be a higher viscosity (although that has changed in recent years) oil distilled from petroleum* and because of the environment where it is expected to work, will definitely have all of those types of additives in greater concentrations. Other than that, "gun oil" and "motor oil" may have come from the same hole in the ground.

------------------

* Fully synthetic motor oils may - but do not have to - use petroleum or natural gas as the source for the base that the synthetic molecules are made from.

 

[hdwhit]

Tony k wrote:
If I was inclined to be picky about oils, I'd choose one with rust inhibitors for inaccessible places

Pull the oil pan off of an automobile engine and look how much rust there is (or, more properly, isn't in the inaccessible areas at the bottom of the engine).

I don't want to sound flippant, but even if you could get a list of all the additives that were in a can/bottle of gun oil or motor oil, would you know which ones were rush inhibitors - as opposed to anti-oxidants, viscosity enhancers, or detergents?

If not, how would you know whether the oil you were picking up had the rust inhibitors?

Of course all of that ignores the stark reality that it is the barrier provided by the oil itself that functions to prevent rust and so the most effective rust inhibitor is the oil that stays in place.

 

[Skylerbone]

Midwesterner here as well. I do shoot in 100+ and when the mercury bottoms out as well, though I have no experience with motor oil outside my vehicle. For that I use Mobile 1 5W 30 and ATF at 4 quarts to 1. Cleans and lubes great.

If I were using it on firearms I'd favor heavy weight to keep it in place. If what you're doing is working the only variable would be how often to lube depending on temp.

Not to argue against, but any lubricant with cleaners and not confined in a closed system can and will run out of place. On bicycle chains Mobile 1 will be squeaking in under 20 miles and the chain clean but dry as a bone. 17 bikes in my garage and none get motor oil (been there, tried that).

 

[JohnKSa]

That opinion is based on an incomplete or inaccurate understanding of 1) how iron oxidizes and 2) the composition of refined petroleum "oils".

It is true that all oils deter rust to some extent. It is also true that some are much better than others at doing so, NOT because of what kind of "refined petroleum oils" they are, but because of the specific additives that the manufacture mixes with the base oil to help prevent rust.

Motor oil will prevent rust in the sense that any oil, if properly applied and maintained will prevent rust, but it is not an especially good rust preventive compared to the better gun formulations. Anyone who doubts it can look at the results of the many corrosion tests that have already been performed and which are available online, or, if they doubt those results, they can perform their own tests.

This test is quite good. http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Pull the oil pan off of an automobile engine and look how much rust there is (or, more properly, isn't in the inaccessible areas at the bottom of the engine).

Correct. If you store your gun in an oil bath (pretty much regardless of the type of oil), it won't rust while it's in there.

 

[Ironicaintit]

I don't care what weight really. So long as it's mixed 50/50 with STP. It's really tenacious stuff, and a little goes a long way. it has a zinc additive that works well in engines with flat tappet cams, so I'm sure it's holding its own on sliding parts in guns, as well.

But I hardly ever do that, because I have lots of different gun oils around still.

 

[Speedo66]

I have to say I chuckled when someone said synthetic was too expensive. If you do your own oil changes, save the empties and turn them upside down. There will be enough left over dripping down in 5 qt. bottles or one 5 qt. bottle to keep you in oil for a long time considering the miniscule amount needed. Think of it as free since you've already used the balance of the oil in your car.

As far as weight, it makes no difference. The only thing that could possible be affected would be the speed of the firing pin if the temperature drops well below freezing. With a synthetic, probably no effect even then.

Gear oil? Now that stuff stinks. lol

 

[Deltaboy1984]

Used what works for you! On the Farm we used ATF to clean guns with!

 

[Poper]

Well let me answer your question this way.

The two main products I use is Tetra Gun Grease on what slides (such as rails on semi-autos) and Mobil One Synthetic 5W-30 on what pivots. I use Mobil One Synthetic 5W-30 exclusively on my 20 year old daily driver and have over 300,000 miles using it with no signs of the engine burning oil.

For exterior rust protection I use treated gun cloths and those gun wipes that are treated with oil.

My Air Force time was spent on a Northern Tier millile base from 1976-1980 (AFSC 47252). Mobil 1 and synthetics were relatively new and all the rage. The AF did a test over a period of several years where they had several hundred vehicles across numerous AF bases in different climates. The test vehicles were driven through their service life from new until disposed through salvage and were strictly serviced according to the manufacturer's recommendations. When their budget of, $ spent on maintenance and repairs, age and mileage all added up to end of life cycle, the engines were torn down and were inspected for wear. Typical wear areas were measured (rod and crankshaft journals, bearings and clearances, etc.) and the results were compared. Synthetic oil to conventional oil. To our great surprise, the study analysis said their was no measurable difference in wear between the two groups! I would have bet money there would have been a big difference.

You can look at all the anectdotal evidence you want, but the test results were what they were. Too bad the AF didn't publish the study for the general public to read. I always thought they should have because the people paid for it.

 

[boom boom]

My Air Force time was spent on a Northern Tier millile base from 1976-1980 (AFSC 47252). Mobil 1 and synthetics were relatively new and all the rage. The AF did a test over a period of several years where they had several hundred vehicles across numerous AF bases in different climates. The test vehicles were driven through their service life from new until disposed through salvage and were strictly serviced according to the manufacturer's recommendations. When their budget of, $ spent on maintenance and repairs, age and mileage all added up to end of life cycle, the engines were torn down and were inspected for wear. Typical wear areas were measured (rod and crankshaft journals, bearings and clearances, etc.) and the results were compared. Synthetic oil to conventional oil. To our great surprise, the study analysis said their was no measurable difference in wear between the two groups! I would have bet money there would have been a big difference.

You can look at all the anectdotal evidence you want, but the test results were what they were. Too bad the AF didn't publish the study for the general public to read. I always thought they should have because the people paid for it.

Major advantage to synthetics is longer life--if you change both at the same intervals--probably little measurable difference. The advantage over the long run is synthetics tend to resist breakdown over time better than those directly from Mother Nature. In my AFSC in heavy equipment, all of our oil was sent out for lab analysis to determine when to change--those using synthetics went longer between changes than std. motor oil.

I doubt if firearms could tell the difference due to cleaning cycles of most users.

 

[Tony k]

Major advantage to synthetics is longer life--if you change both at the same intervals--probably little measurable difference. The advantage over the long run is synthetics tend to resist breakdown over time better than those directly from Mother Nature. In my AFSC in heavy equipment, all of our oil was sent out for lab analysis to determine when to change--those using synthetics went longer between changes than std. motor oil.

I doubt if firearms could tell the difference due to cleaning cycles of most users.

In my AFSC, 2A6x1A, we never changed the oil. You just check the oil level of each engine when the jet landed and top off any that were low. I bet jet engine oil might work to lube a gun in a pinch.

 

[boom boom]

In my AFSC, 2A6x1A, we never changed the oil. You just check the oil level of each engine when the jet landed and top off any that were low. I bet jet engine oil might work to lube a gun in a pinch.

Bet you are right, from what I remember, the multi level marketing company (cant remember the name) that first sold synthetic oil for cars and trucks used aircraft lubricants. In CES, our stuff was stuck to the ground unless bundled aboard as cargo and we had to draw samples for lab analysis every so often.

 

[grter]

Motor oil is designed for combustion engines and works different from conventional oils in that it is thinner in viscosity when cold to allow easy flow to spread throughout the engine when starting your car but gets thicker when hot to provide better lubrication once it's spread through out the engine.

One disadvantage of motor oil is it's probably very toxic and I would wonder if frequent handling (touching) would cause cancer. On the other hand I read that ballistol would not harm you even if ingested orally.

I would choose a high quality gun oil optimized for firearms but it wouldn't surprise me if motor oil would work just fine.

 

[Ironicaintit]

Motor oil is designed for combustion engines and works different from conventional oils in that it is thinner in viscosity when cold to allow easy flow to spread throughout the engine when starting your car but gets thicker when hot to provide better lubrication once it's spread through out the engine.

One disadvantage of motor oil is it's probably very toxic and I would wonder if frequent handling (touching) would cause cancer. On the other hand I read that ballistol would not harm you even if ingested orally.

I would choose a high quality gun oil optimized for firearms but it wouldn't surprise me if motor oil would work just fine.

I'll disagree there. It gets thinner when hot.

As far as being cancerous, the only danger (that I know of) is in used oil, where there's all kinds of combustion byproducts held in suspension.

 

[Steel Horse Rider]

My answer is: "It doesn't matter." Any common automotive weight of synthetic oil is going to have lubricating qualities at any temperature you are shooting in.

 

[WessonOil]

My answer is: "It doesn't matter." Any common automotive weight of synthetic oil is going to have lubricating qualities at any temperature you are shooting in.

That seems to be the jest of the thread.