Best Synthetic Motor Oil Weight For Guns

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WessonOil

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For those who want to debate Motor oil vs. Gun oil this isn't your thread. :)

I've been using Mobile 1 5W-30 for some years now just because that's what I had around the house.
I live in the Midwest where by and large it gets up around the 90's and down in the teens when I'm shooting or competing.
Our matches are in the morning before it gets over 100 degrees and I don't go to the range for recreational shooting when it's too friggin' hot.
Should I stick with this weight or look at a different viscosity range?
So far, it's been flawless when I shot in a rare match that was sub-zero.
 
A little analysis of your situation, given the facts we know:

So far, it's been flawless when I shot in a rare match that was sub-zero.
Click to expand...

Ok. So there's that.

Should I stick with this weight or look at a different viscosity range?
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I'd go for not changing what's working.

Don't overthink it. Guns are much simpler than cars with nowhere near the need for such scrutiny of their lubrication.
 
Well let me answer your question this way.

The two main products I use is Tetra Gun Grease on what slides (such as rails on semi-autos) and Mobil One Synthetic 5W-30 on what pivots. I use Mobil One Synthetic 5W-30 exclusively on my 20 year old daily driver and have over 300,000 miles using it with no signs of the engine burning oil.

For exterior rust protection I use treated gun cloths and those gun wipes that are treated with oil.
 
"...been using..." For what? Oil is not for lubing. It's for rust protection. Synthetic oil is just too expensive. Mind you, so is anything that has the word 'gun' or 'gunsmith's' in its name.
"...that was sub-zero..." Takes a bit of time for oil or grease to be affected.
"...So far, it's been flawless..." Rule Number One. It works. Don't fix it.
 
Sunray said:
"...been using..." For what? Oil is not for lubing. It's for rust protection.
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Isn't it for both? And depending on the location? Barrel exterior and interior: rust protection. Contact between moving parts in a semiautomatic: lubrication.

I've been using Napa 5w50 just because I have a bunch on hand. It's pretty slick stuff.
 
I use motor oil on the portion of barrels that are under hand guards or otherwise inaccessible. I use the leftovers in the bottle from oil changes/topping off and since one car uses 10W30 and the other 5W20, I have used each and have not noticed a difference in performance.
 
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Yes ive always used light weight motor oil for exterior and more gunsmith type oil for the insides here in Florida as well
 
There is this from another forum...

http://www.stoppingpower.net/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16727

...and I believe that Armalite once had a Technical Note (#64, I think) on its website that recommended the use of Mobil 1 20 weight as a suitable substitute for lubricating their AR-15.

BreakFree LP, not CLP, is what I have been using for the task of lubricating guns; stays where I put it and does what it is supposed to do.
 
hdwhit said:
I use motor oil on the portion of barrels that are under hand guards or otherwise inaccessible. I the leftovers in the bottle from oil changes/topping off and since one car uses 10W30 and the other 5W20, I have used each and have not noticed a difference in performance.
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RAEIndustries said:
Yes ive always used light weight motor oil for exterior and more gunsmith type oil for the insides here in Florida as well
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I read in other threads where people thought motor oil was a better lubricant than rust preventative. If I was inclined to be picky about oils, I'd choose one with rust inhibitors for inaccessible places
 
I use Mobil1 75w90 gear lube for a number of purposes including general 1911 lube. I guess my guns never got the memo that it's to heavy of a weight. I've never tested in sub-zero temps but I'd be willing to bet it'll work.

People use grease all the time to lube their guns. Any oil will work.
 
" Oil is not for lubing. It's for rust protection"... Its literally made for lubing. That's what it does in your motor at high temps for hours and hour for thousands of miles.


But to the OP I use whatever is handy. It can't make a measurable difference.

HB
 
Sam1911 said:
Don't overthink it. Guns are much simpler than cars with nowhere near the need for such scrutiny of their lubrication.
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This. In automotive applications, lubricants often act as bearing surfaces, especially in the engine, where the pressurized oiling system actually prevents some metal parts from being in direct contact with one another (rod, crank & cam bearings). An engine may complete a half billion revolutions over 100K miles, and people would be livid if their engine couldn't last twice that long or more. The oil must be of proper composition and viscosity; too light, and it flows out too quickly, resulting in peening or galling. Too heavy, it can't flow through the ports, journals and galleys with enough volume to prevent the same.

Conversely, a gun that sees even 50,000 cycles is exceedingly rare. In a firearm, lubricants simply prevent surfaces from abrading or galling each other. Use a lubricant heavy enough to stay on the parts, light enough that it won't inhibit movement (especially in cold temperatures). Light to medium weight engine oils work just fine. Penetrating oils and the like are too thin, grease generally too thick and won't flow.
 
I'd go as thick as possible if you lack the skills to mix your own lube. Gear oil.

I mix ATF/STP/Pink Grease until it's exactly the way I want it. Never failed, easy to clean, doesn't evap or run off.
 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JqhiX72Ya8xDwBKg2
This is the best stuff ever for preventing rust and cleaning it does not get used on the inside of barrels unless it will be stored for a long time(in a damp basement) and I clean it out of the barrel before shooting again. It dries and does not attract dust. CLP gets used on slide, bolts and trigger parts. Any good 10 to 40 wt motor oil will work but I like to use good stuff. A 10 dollar bottle will last a long time. You could save you bacon grease and use that if you wanted to.

Of and it's great on 22lr it provides lubrication but it helps keep the dirty 22lr crap off the bolt
 
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AZAndy said:
That’s what my Honda takes, so that’s what I have around for gun usage too. So far, so good.
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My Jeep Commander takes that flavor, too. I s'pose that I could drain off the residual stuff remaining after my next oil change and have a lot of substitute lube to carry me through 'til next year.
 
I haven't used any on firearms yet but I;ll have to start saving the drippings from oil changes and try it. Our SUVs use 5W-30 and 5W-20. Changed to full syn in the trans, transfer case and diff. Definitely saw better mileage, smoother drive train and quicker start ups in winter. Been using Quaker State full syn. Can do a oil change for under 25 bucks with filter. Now I'll have to try it on at least one gun. Some of my old milsurps won't mind.
 
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