stonecutter2
Member
I thought I was the only one!I only use Sperm Whale Oil
I thought I was the only one!I only use Sperm Whale Oil
I've been using grease on my AR since I got it , it's lite brake in grease (NAPA Lubriplate 105) I put a dab on the bolt and use a small paintbrush to get it in everywhere it need to be , I also use it on my bolt guns , a dab on the bolt lugs , work the action and wipe off, Great for long term storage too, it has little smell and wont varnish , and I've been using the same tube for over 15 years ,Grease on an AR = no go.
My new car specifies synthetic 0-20. I can change the oil and filter for around $35 at the most using Mobil 1 and an OEM filter. I hope they are doing a bunch of extra stuff at the same time to warrant the extra $165.Totally get it for automotive application (drive "sports cars" - the $200 dealer oil change is an expense that I don't skimp on), but does it matter for firearm uses?
Wink Gun Lube
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I only use Sperm Whale Oil
My favorite firearm lube is 50% ATF, 25% each Mobil 1 synthetic and STP. I mixed up a quart about 20 years ago on the advice of an old National Guard armorer I used to shoot with. I'm still working on using up the last few ounces of that quart today. It has a great combination of heat resistance, slipperiness and cling.
mnhntr said:Not to disrespect anyone on here who is what I call, overly educated, but I do not need a degree in petroleum engineering. It is common sense that a lubricant made for high heat applications such as gasoline engines would work in other high heat applications such as firearms. Since the object is to lubricate and reduce wear it is safe to assume they are interchangeable to a degree. I would venture to say that because there is a lot more money put into researching motor oil than gun oil it is probably a better product.
but the latest API SM and GF-4 specs have reduced ZDDP content to such an extent that the new oils may not provide adequate protection for older, flat-tappet-equipped vehicles running nonstock, performance cams and valve trains. And it will only get worse; projected future oil spec revisions will likely reduce ZDDP content even more.
Firearms do work reliably for longer if you use high quality lubricants. I use Mobil 1 5W30 EP on my AR and it works better than any gun-marketed lubricant I've ever tried. Thicker and more persistent film stays put better, lubricates better than thin gun oils like Rem Oil, keeps carbon dissolved better, and stays wet longer between cleanings.Totally get it for automotive application (drive "sports cars" - the $200 dealer oil change is an expense that I don't skimp on), but does it matter for firearm uses?
As far as I know, there are no oils on the market that are refined specifically for guns. Gun oil is mixed from the same base stocks as other types of lubricants are, with off-the-shelf additive packs, and are little different from non-gun oils intended to work in similar temperature ranges. I challenge you to compare the physical and lubricative specs of, say, Rem Oil to a Group IV based synthetic 5W30 motor oil. Rem Oil or CLP are excellent as a thin corrosion protective film on a gun's exterior, which is what I use Rem Oil for, but as an internal lubricant it is not as good as synthetic 5W30.Those petroleum engineers starting at $100K-$150K out of college who specify different compounds and additives to tailor the oils for specific uses have no idea what they're doing.
benezra said:Rem Oil or CLP are excellent as a thin corrosion protective film on a gun's exterior, which is what I use Rem Oil for, but as an internal lubricant it is not as good as synthetic 5W30.
I'll bet you could turn a nice profit indeed if you could find a high end watchmaker/repairman to sell it to. Somebody once told that for the high precision tiny, soft gears in very expensive watches that there is no better lubricant even today.Sperm Whale Oil was used in the first automatic transmissions, then they developed ATF which performed even better.
With that said I still use Sperm Whale Oil for some applications, supposedly it never oxidizes. Still have a can almost full that I bought from Brownell's years ago when it was still legal.
That's an awful lot of money to be payin' a feller right out of school, don't you think? But me bein' uneducated and all, I'm thinkin' the lubrication requirements of a firearm are but a fraction of those imposed by a modern internal combustion engine, so you're good to go. But I'm not so sure about puttin' gun oil in your car engine.I use motor oil on my guns and gun oil in my cars.
Those petroleum engineers starting at $100K-$150K out of college who specify different compounds and additives to tailor the oils for specific uses have no idea what they're doing.
That's an awful lot of money to be payin' a feller right out of school, don't you think? But me bein' uneducated and all, I'm thinkin' the lubrication requirements of a firearm are but a fraction of those imposed by a modern internal combustion engine, so you're good to go. But I'm not so sure about puttin' gun oil in your car engine.
An engine kinda sorta has an oil pan filled with a whole bunch of oil, a pump to circulate that oil to where it is needed constantly, and a filter through which said oil is continually passed, even though it is a (mostly) closed system
I'd have to agree, if "threads" is what you meantThis has become one of the most enjoyable treads I have read in a while.