10 mm or .45 ACP?

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Clark,

I didn't see your post until just now. Are you saying you can handload a 40 S&W, 45 ACP, and 10mm hotter than you can a .44 Mag?:eek: You can load a .44 Mag twice as hot as any of those other three. Furthermore, you can load it down farther than other three. It is my favorite pistol cartidge...the more I think of it, probably the most versatile. The .357/.38 would be a close second, but I think the .44 Mag has it beat. However, I'm just trying to clarify and/or set the record straight.
 
Clark said:
For factory ammo the power hierarchy is:
1) 44 mag
2) 10mm
3) 45acp
4) 40s&w

For those who handload hot the power hierarchy is:
1) 45acp
2) 40s&w
3) 10mm
4) 44 mag

Explain your reasoning.
 
The 44 mag is usually in a revolver that extracts all 6 rounds at once with one finger tip. That limits the pressure to stuck cases.

The 10mm has a large primer pocket and small extractor groove diameter making the case weak. This is more important that the max OAL compared to a 40sw.

The 45acp case when loaded past the 460 Rowland published loads achieves greatness before the primer falls out.

But that is all hindsight. I have takes all 4 to their limits and so I already know the answer.
 
I would not worry about black bears because they only like to eat Canadians. The 10mm is same as .357Magnum. Hope that helps.
 
SInce the .45 Super round came up in this thread.
and tho I know it's the AUtoloader area, I have a
full size Stainless 1911, as well as a 625 5" Bbl. full underlug
barrel in .45 ACp / .45 AUto RIm

Buffalo Bore offers 3 .45 Super loads

230 gr JHP # 1,100 FPS
230 gr. FMJ @ 1,100 fps

255 gr. LSWC @ 1,075 FPS. =

Buffalo write up:

45 Super is externally/dimensionally identical to 45 acp or 45 acp+P and is designed to be used in 45 acp semi auto pistols that have been fitted with stronger than normal recoil springs and a shock buffer, plus a couple other modifications. While you can shoot 45 SUPER out of some stock 45 acp+P pistols such as the Glock 21, HK USP or the full sized all steel 1911, you will batter your pistol if you do not have them modified to handle the extra pressure and slide velocity of the 45 Super.

All our 45 Super ammunition is loaded with flash suppressed powders so that if you have to fire in low light (when the criminal element is out) you will not be blinded by your own gun fire at the worst possible moment.


To learn about the modifications your 45 acp pistol needs to reliably and safely fire 45 SUPER, contact Garey Hindman at 936-402-3484. Garey is the foremost authority on 45 Super modifications/conversions for your 45 acp and Garey performs such conversions for a living.


The below velocities were fired from my Colt Gold Cup Govt. Model (5 inch) that was converted by Garey.


1. Item # 45S185-----------1330 fps (185gr. Jhp)
2. Item # 45S200-----------1235 fps (200gr. Jhp)
3. Item # 45S230-----------1131 fps (230gr. Jhp)
4. Item # 45S230FMJ----1133 fps (230gr. FMJ-FLAT NOSE)
5. Item # 45S255-----------1090 fps (HARD CAST-FLAT NOSE)


As always with Buffalo Bore Ammunition, we use real world firearms to give you real world data and results.


All three of the JHP loads were designed for anti-personel use and for hunting small big game like deer. The two solid bullet loads were designed for breaking large bones like a bears shoulders or skull, but will work for anti-personel use as well if you need to shoot through cover like car doors or stick frame walls


R-
 
Clark,
I have a Desert Eagle, shoot the 44 Mag in +p+, the idea of unloading the stuck case, is interesting:)
Using the 45 case necked down to 10mm (get you the 400 Corbon) which I also shoot in my G21 45 ACP Glock... Nice round!!! Barrel is a 6.5"...
What weight bullet, are you shooting out of the 45 ACP???

Regards
 
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Interesting, load from Buffalo Bore

255 gr. HC FN hardcast @ 1,100 FPS "+P"
although there is no +P rating for .45 AR.

& the hottest load for .45 ACP+P is

230 gr. JHP @ 950 FPS

10mm wins with better penetration/energy
and a couple more rounds.

R-
 
The 44 mag is usually in a revolver that extracts all 6 rounds at once with one finger tip. That limits the pressure to stuck cases.

The 10mm has a large primer pocket and small extractor groove diameter making the case weak. This is more important that the max OAL compared to a 40sw.

The 45acp case when loaded past the 460 Rowland published loads achieves greatness before the primer falls out.

But that is all hindsight. I have takes all 4 to their limits and so I already know the answer.

I still have to see a 45 ACP case (and gun) that can be loaded up to 1200-1300 ft/lb which is the power of a full spec (mind you not "hot") 44 Magnum round (out of a 6" revolver)

The 460 Rowland which, by the way, is not a 45 ACP case (it is actually longer) is at best a 800-850 ft/lb round....yes equivalent to some sissy self defence watered down 44 Mag ammo.....and, incidentally, to some stout 10mm Auto loads.

If we are talking about "hot" 44 Magnum, there are loads that can exceed 1600 ft/lb (stuck cases??)....granted I would not use them in a S&W 29 but they are regularly used by Taurus Raging Bull and Ruger owners....

I think you are dreaming......
 
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if you are dead set on not adding a caliber then go with 45, honestly anything smaller than a 44 mag is probably not a good idea, personally I would never shoot a bear with a handgun unless i had to, a 12 gauge with at least a 3 inch slug, a 2 ounce solid chunk of lead at 1600 fps would really mess up a bears day!
 
The 10mm cartridge has more power than a .45ACP so the 10mm gets the nod.

Me personally, I would use a .44 Magnum for self defense against black bears over the 10mm or .45ACP.
 
When will people realize its not the diameter of the bullet or size of the hole that matters. When defending yourself from dangerous animals, PENETRATION is the name of the game. Sure a .45ACP will make a larger hole for the bear to bleed out but you'll have been dead for an hour before it does.

Honestly, the 10mm and .357 are less than ideal but they will do the trick. I wouldn't use a .45ACP. It just doesn't have the power to push through tough hide, dense muscle and solid bone to reach the vitals.
 
Don't know about you, but I would never choose "bear spray" over a .45 or 10mm. I guess it works sometimes, but no way. I'm not going to risk my life on a can of "people seasoning." When I lived in Alaska, bear spray was considered a joke by most. Maybe it's gotten better in the last 10 years though, but I'll never know because I sure as hell won't set down a gun for a can of spray. I don't want to "hopefully" confuse his senses (that's really all it does), I want to put that mother down before he puts me down!

Haha. That should get some angry, defensive responses. Now, if it were my choice between the two, I would opt for the .45 ACP. Then I would load it up with a good quality 230 grain bullet--not a HP though. Bears are big and have big, heavy bones. A hollowpoint just isn't going to cut it. Personally, I wouldn't get anything lighter than 230 gr., for penetration purposes as well. And I handload as well, so load up some max, or near-max loads. 230 gr, FMJ. There you go--my $0.02. Hope that helps.

P.S. I don't care what those "super-legitimate, non-biased studies" say. Spray is simply not as effective as a gun. Trust me, I know what I am talking about. The only people that would say spray is better than a gun, are anti-gun whackos and the companies who make the spray. Normal people do get duped into believing spray is better though. There was a fairly large gun shop/hangout spot that I used to frequent up there...this topic was brought up often. The owner, who is a hell of a good guy, though quite a character, once joked that he has never seen a returning customer for bear spray. HAHA! Oh well, when will people realize that nothing is better than a high-power rifle for stopping something right now?
True...let's avoid those pesky facts from those "super-legitimate, non-biased studies"....and go with "Trust me, I know what I am talking about".

Bear Spray vs. Bullets by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

For the record I carry bear spray and a S&W 460 Mag when in Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons.
 
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Are 10mm and .45acp ideal calibers for hunting bear and achieving one shot kills? NO.

Would 10mm and .45acp be adequate for defense from black bears? Yes


I don't think there are very many things on earth that are going to continue giving you problems after getting gentled down with .45acp and 10mm lead.

The Glock 20 is one badass defense weapon, I'd buy it. I too was apprehensive about 10mm because people always said that it was outrageously expensive but its really not that much, if at all, more expensive than .45.

Also, it really isn't 'that' hard to find as some will have you believe, sometimes they have it, sometimes they don't, I buy it when they do, I don't when they don't, much like .45, 9mm and other calibers.
 
I am going to agree with saturno_v overloading a cartridge to dangerous level to be safe when sharing the wood with a Black bear is not only dreaming I would call it more like a nightmare.. But onto the question at hand 10 vs 45. Bears are tough critters if you have ever seen one with its hide off they have lots of fat, heavy muscle, and there bones are large and solid. I personally don't think one cartridge will do wonders over the other at Bear charge ranges. I do know from personal experience (yes I have shot several black bears) a solid constructed bullet like a semi jacketed soft point will provide the penetration needed to get through all that muscle and into something important. I personally would get the gun that you can safely and efficiently shoot when your caught off guard and the stress level is through the roof. If one of those calibers plays into being able to be efficient with the firearm I think thats the round you should go with.
 
Wow...

I cannot believe some of the idiocy (disguised as "discussion") that is taking place on what was once the most knowledgeable, informed firearms site in all creation.
Sorry to see how far THR has fallen. I'm going elsewhere for the evening.

I'll leave it at that so hopefully I don't get banned (tonight, anyway). :rolleyes:
 
If you've already got .45s I would just stick with that and load it up with some hot fmj or hardcast loads it should get the job done. Not that we really have any bears in my woods but my "bear pistol" which also happens to be my "any other dangerous animal pistol," and my general HD gun is my S&W M&P45. I personally don't want any gun chambered in anything I can't just go pick up at walmart or some other common sporting goods store. That may seem lame, but that's how I feel.

That said pistols make crappy bear deterrents, a 12ga loaded with slugs would make better bear medicine, but those are hard to carry around all day.

This is how I feel about spray:

Bear_Country_Warningc.jpg
 
Lets be prefectly frank, neither are great if you are using them specific for bear:evil: But the 10mm is probably superior:)

:D
 
The joke on the sign has it backward. Pepper spray is actually a little less effective at stopping black bears.
 
10mm Glock, or a .357 Mag or bigger revolver. But I would think an air horn would scare away a black bear so you wouldn't have to shoot it. There are game laws that protect bears and you wouldn't have to explain yourself to a game warden for shooting a bear. I have a small portable one on my fishing boat and it don't weight more than my Glock.
 
45 vs 10mm ,,, This might get a bit wordy but I think it needs to me added JMHO. This is my first post so go easy on me.. OH and I read somewhere too that the best way to stop a charging bear is to take away its credit cards! … sorry I couldn’t resist!!

So what to use to fend off an upset bear wanting to challenge your stroll through the woods? Well I read that a guy and his wife were hiking and he shot a black bear with his 45acp using JHP’s like 5 or 6 times and it just turned and walked off into the woods about 500 or 600 yds and fell down and didn’t get up. They got lucky it didn’t attack! I also read that a park ranger shot a black bear that he was relocating and after it was let out of the cage it turned on him and he shot it 2 or 3 times with his issued 357mag and it fell at his feet. He got VERY LUCKY during the attack! I have visited the Alaskan outdoors forum at http://outdoorsdirectory.com/ and they talk about bears and handguns a lot and personally I would heed their advice when it comes to such a topic. Yes they get the BIG BRUINS up in the Great White North and there are mama grizzly’s, big brownies, black bears, papa bears, mama bears, and baby bears ,,, sorry couldn’t resist again ,,, but they advise each other as follows. First of all depending on the circumstances and depending on what is in your encounter area. You are talking about a beast that could be a black bear coming out of hibernation thin and hungry with a semi thick hide and very little thick fat weighing in at say about give or take a pound or two of 250 to 375lbs. If it is about to head into its retreat for the winter and it is fat and sassy it could be 450 or maybe as big as 500lbs covered with a thick furry hid and a fatter layer of winter pudgy. If you happen to run into a brownie or a bigger grizzly then you could have a big world of hurt on your hands as they can range from a small female sow of 500lbs up to a 1,000lb plus male. So here’s what I’ve read and you might want to visit Alaskan outdoors and read up for yourself. Bears are wild animals and you never know what is on their mind. They may attack because you startled them, or a mama has cubs to protect, they may have had a fight with their spouse and are out for revenge, or they may look at you and say your not worth it today. Ya just never know. Someone may ask you does your doggie bite?? You say no… Next thing you know it is chewing off their leg! Black bears are the easiest to divert unless they have cubs to protect or might be out for a snack or are just having a bad day. But browns, blonds, grizzles and such are and can be more aggressive and polar bears will hunt you down despite them being miles away when they pickup your scent. Some bears will be attracted to you by hearing your gun shot because they think they can and will try to take your hunted kill. If that happens you have two chooses give it up or try to kill the bear. But now you have to trek out your original kill and a big ol bear too and hope you don’t run into another one or more looking for a free meal also. Here are some rules I’ve come across to think about to maybe try and follow.

1. Do not run from a bear they will chase you down and they WILL catch you because they are very fast. They can run up to 35mph in a split second. Try to avoid direct eye contact they will preset this as a direct threat and do not lie down and play possum. It really doesn’t work 99.9 percent of the time.

2. Do not use the pepper spray you get at the local dollar store used to ward off evildoers with. It will not work on any size bear. They make a highly potent special bear spray for that. But that isn’t a good idea either because what if there is a slight breeze and it doesn’t make it into the bears face or worst yet it blows back into yours? So forget the spray. It will only make you taste like a jalapenos popper when the bear starts snacking on your butt!

3. Do not think that wearing jingle bells will always ward off a bear because it hears you hoping down the bunny trail, though it might work with a mouse and a cat ,,, it will not always work with a bear and it will be the only thing left of you to identify in its poo after your scenic trip through its digestive system comes to its end.

4. Like I said ,,, bears are very fast runners ,,, no make that very very very fast runners and if you do find yourself being charged by one you may only have about 2 or 4 seconds to clear leather and get off a shot or two so you better be quick on the draw and very potent with your shot placement. You think it is a stress full moment having to draw on a BG? Think of it as if you are standing about 30 ft in front of a pickup truck and as you turn to face it head on the driver punches it and is now barreling down on you at 35mph now try and jump out of the way before you get run over and oh ya ,,, don’t forget to draw your weapon and shoot the driver in the head in the 2 to 5 seconds you have before you get run over!!

5. A revolver is better then a pistol because if you only have time to press the gun up onto the bears body because it is on top of you before you can get a shot off a pistol isn’t going to be very useful and will not work very well as you probably already know where as a revolver will not stop firing until it runs out of ammo and yes semi-autos will not go into battery very well when in direct contact with a fuzzy bears coat and some makes are very hardy but a revolver may be more reliable in this case ,,,,,, just a thought.

Alaskan guides do not recommend anything but the following in this order of last to first choice. 10mm, 45colt, 44mag, 454cassul, or if you’re a real masochist a 500s&w. Or just sling a 12gage Stoeger coach gun over your sholder. And since your going to have to penetrate deep and as we always say in a defensive BG situation I do stress a heavy hot load with lots of deep penetration, fps, and ftlbs because your projectile is going through a very tuff hairy hid, a thick layer of dense fat, and their skull is and bones are very thick and strong so do not use any RNFMJ or JHP ammo. Use only ammo similar to Buffalo Bore HCFN or checkout Doubletap WFNGC hardcast. I would suggest it coming out of a Ruger 5.5 inch or 4.2 inch Redhawk or a 2.5 inch Super Redhawk Alaskan they can handle even the hottest loads best. Or if you do go the 10mm rout I’d get a G20 or maybe a G29 but you will need to upgrade to a Lone Wolf or KKM barrel and a new set of heaver recoil springs in order to use the HCL ammo. They also make a 6-inch hunting barrel for the G20, which would add a little more opus. As for me I know that I could get off more shots personally quicker having a magazine full of 10 or 15 rounds of 200gr WFNGC hardcast ammo coming out of a G20 then I could using a 6 round 44mag or 454casull Redhawk in about the 3 or 6 seconds I might have to do so in, and if that doesn’t work on Fuzzy Wuzzy for me then I will make sure to have filed down the front sight so when that pissed off bear I just shot shoves my lead spewer up my fanny it wouldn’t hurt so much as he starts eating my face off!! So IMHO ,,, for get about the 45acp and get a G20 or maybe a G29 and then upgrade the barrel and recoil springs, and some seriously hot and heavy ammo and you should be good to go roam about the woods feeling somewhat secure but keep in mind too that even a deer or an elk or two hit in the shoulder and chest area with a 45-70 have gotten up and run off into the brush a ways maybe not too far too often ,,, but it has happened. But for your BEST protection my advice would be to only venture out into bear land with a friend because all you would really need to carry then is a tiny 22short derringer to shoot them in the leg with so you can run away faster then them and let them deal with Yogi and Boo-boo!! Isn’t that what good friends do is help each other out when your in a real jam … just a thought!
 
I'd pick the .45 acp hands down. Reasons- ammo more available and makes a bigger hole.
Presumably if you go into the woods with the gun, you will have ammo in it so availablility isn't an issue. This is especially true if you have internet access, you can find plenty online.
45 May make a bigger hole, but it isn't going to go as deeply into the critter as the 10mm will, and a few hundredths of an inch larger hole doesn't mean much if it stopped in a layer of fat.
 
10mm for critters 45 does not have enough velocity for adequate penetration for bear type animals As mentioned they have thick fat and fur and hard bones as well.

Barrels and bullets:

Buffalo Bore says you can shoot hard cast bullets from Polygonal barrels (Glocks) with no issues

From their web site:
HARD CAST BULLETS IN POLYGONAL BARRELS
True hard cast bullets (as opposed to lead swaged bullets) that are properly lubed will not lead foul polygonal barrels any more than any other type of rifled barrel. Ever since Glock Corporation warned to not use lead bullets in their pistols with polygonal barrels, a myth that hard cast bullets will lead foul polygonal barrels has become wide spread in some parts of the firearms world. However, the myth is untrue. Hard cast bullets are not "lead" bullets. (See my article on "Dangerous Pure Lead Cowboy Bullets")
Pure lead or nearly pure lead bullets have a tendency to foul any barrel, not just polygonal barrels. Years ago, when several Glock pistols experienced cracked barrels because of fouling build up from shooting pure lead bullets, Glock issued a warning not to shoot lead bullets in their polygonal barrels. From that warning, the myth that you should not shoot hard cast bullets in polygonal barrels was born.
Provided you use real hard cast bullets with good lube, you can shoot them all you like in polygonal barrels without causing lead fouling deposits at the front of your chamber or anywhere else in the barrel. If you are concerned about lead fouling from hard cast bullets, all you have to do is to clean your barrel after firing hard cast bullets and before firing any jacketed bullets. However, in my experience, quality hard cast bullets won't foul a Glock polygonal barrel or any other type of barrel but lead bullets normally will.
So if you agree with their opinion,the only reason to buy an additional barrel is if you want a longer one for improved ballistics. Lone Wolf, and Storm Lake make 6" barrels for the G20. Bar Sto does but it's threaded.


The only extended barrel I have found for the G29 is a 4.48 inch barrel. from Storm Lake That's .12 inches shorter than a stock G20.

Hard cast flat nose bullets of 200g or better are what is recommended as to what you should be using. You want penetration not expansion on wild animals The 10mm fills this bill perfectly



So do what you will with this info. Good luck in the woods!
 
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