Any tips for shooting mouse guns a bit more accurately?
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Get closer. 
MICHAEL T
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use tip of finger on trigger and finger rest on mag Those can be bought at http://condorsflight.com i perfer the bersa one my self . Then practice
WardenWolf
member
First you have to kill the mouse to get his gun. Then you need a TINY needle to fit in the trigger guard. . . Oh wait.
Practice, and use good ammo. Not all ultra-compacts have a tiny grip. Some are fitted with full-size hogue grips to bulk them up to the proper size for your fingers. See if yours can be fitted thusly.
Practice, and use good ammo. Not all ultra-compacts have a tiny grip. Some are fitted with full-size hogue grips to bulk them up to the proper size for your fingers. See if yours can be fitted thusly.
cliffy
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Practice at least once a week, or . . .
Mouse guns are generally difficult to shoot accurately. If with fixed sights, even worse. Only purchase adjustable rear-sight models and AVOID double-action ONLY pistols! If it ain't got a thumbable hammer, skip it! Single-action Autos are great for accuracy. Double-action only models are to be avoided. What more can I say, cliffy
Mouse guns are generally difficult to shoot accurately. If with fixed sights, even worse. Only purchase adjustable rear-sight models and AVOID double-action ONLY pistols! If it ain't got a thumbable hammer, skip it! Single-action Autos are great for accuracy. Double-action only models are to be avoided. What more can I say, cliffy
MICHAEL T
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guess you carry a 1911 hammer down to. many people will shoot as good or better with a DA auto Its called training.
bannockburn
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whatever
I remember years ago reading an article about trying to get a decent sight picture with the tiny, almost non-existant sights that are found on most mouse guns. What the author found that worked the best, was to take a bright colored enamel paint, like yellow or orange, and paint a narrow strip on the back of the slide and on the rear of the front sight. Now this isn't going to give you pinpoint accuracy, but it might help in aquiring a decent sight picture, and in finding and focusing on the front sight. You might want to try this to see if it works.
I remember years ago reading an article about trying to get a decent sight picture with the tiny, almost non-existant sights that are found on most mouse guns. What the author found that worked the best, was to take a bright colored enamel paint, like yellow or orange, and paint a narrow strip on the back of the slide and on the rear of the front sight. Now this isn't going to give you pinpoint accuracy, but it might help in aquiring a decent sight picture, and in finding and focusing on the front sight. You might want to try this to see if it works.
usp9
Member
IMHO, A "good enough" group is what you're after when you shoot a tiny pocket pistol. These pistols are not meant for precise, aimed shooting. Their intended use is strickly defense... draw, point and pull the trigger. You should be able to hit vital, center of mass areas. Speed and surprise are your main focus, not pin point accuracy.
Shooting slow and easy you should group, at 7 yards within say a 3 or 4" area. Fast, pointed shoots you want to be within that or just barely outside, say a 6" or so. That would be deadly to most folks.
7 yards is about the outside distance to practice. That and anything closer is the realistic threat area. Shooting slow and easy my Seecamp will deliver a 2" group, and that's about as good as it will ever deliver, and that is "good enough" I'm not sure I have any tip to offer. The triggers are heavy, the guns tiny, the barrels too short, the recoil noticable. Practice with a firm grip and quick, consistent trigger pull, shoot enough to develope some muscle memory. Good luck.
KBintheSLC
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I have found that trigger control is key when shooting my P32. It is so light and small that any mashing or jerking I do when pressing the trigger is amplified. I would get some snap caps and do a ton of dry practice... get to where your sights do not move when you press the trigger.
burningsquirrels
Member
i use my one handed shooting techniques from sport shooting.
in a nutshell... i get into a fighting stance with my strong hand forward, similar to a low boxing or martial arts stance. my gun is canted about 20* and i rotate my shoulders into the weapon, putting more of my forearm and upper arm muscles behind the recoil. this helps me point shoot, manage recoil, and place follow-up shots quickly. getting the shots inside an target? i can bill drill some alphas, with a charlie or two on cm99-63 merle's standards strong hand at 60 feet in a reasonable amount of time.
the rest is practice.
with my 380, the thing is so small, it's almost pointless for me to practice two handed. that, and in a defensive situation, chances are my left hand will be busy holding valuables or pulling my fiance out of the way. i still practice with my left as well.
in a nutshell... i get into a fighting stance with my strong hand forward, similar to a low boxing or martial arts stance. my gun is canted about 20* and i rotate my shoulders into the weapon, putting more of my forearm and upper arm muscles behind the recoil. this helps me point shoot, manage recoil, and place follow-up shots quickly. getting the shots inside an target? i can bill drill some alphas, with a charlie or two on cm99-63 merle's standards strong hand at 60 feet in a reasonable amount of time.
the rest is practice.
with my 380, the thing is so small, it's almost pointless for me to practice two handed. that, and in a defensive situation, chances are my left hand will be busy holding valuables or pulling my fiance out of the way. i still practice with my left as well.
schmeky
Member
Hardy, har, har,
Same basic techniques apply. Except with the additional problem of what to do with your pinky. I prefer to curl it fully under the butt of the gun against my hand in full contraction. The pinky on the side of the gun way is just plain uncomfortable.
burningsquirrels
Member
i forgot one thing: excercise for your hands. i have a couple stress balls and that squeezy thingy. when you got a mousey-mouse gun that uses just your middle or middle and ring, it helps to have a very strong grip.
mike724
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Mouse gun??!! Here Kitty kitty! Get close to THIS mouse!
Lightninstrike
Member
Hmmm...
Maybe a laser if a) you can afford it and b) you can find one for your firearm. I have a Crimson Trace kit for my LCP.
Maybe a laser if a) you can afford it and b) you can find one for your firearm. I have a Crimson Trace kit for my LCP.
stalkingbear
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Practice while using trigger control AND install a laser!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
burningsquirrels
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i couldn't resist.
Lonestar.45
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I have a 3AT also. The best bet is to just practice. Which is hard with that gun, because for me it is no fun to shoot. But, the more you shoot it the better you'll get. Also, play around with ammo selection. Mine was finicky and some ammo it just did NOT like. I settled in on Speer Gold Dot 90gr and it runs like a champ and shoots great with that load.
One tip, I put a Hogue Handall Jr. grip on it. Turn the grip upside down, slide it on, trim it with an exacto knife, and superglue it onto the grip once you get it where you want it. That made a TON of difference. That, and I put some Bersa mag finger grip extensions on the mag. I just use those for the range though to make it easier to shoot. For carry I go with the flush mag for better concealability. Good luck.
Edited to add: Here is a link to exactly what I did with the grip. If anyone has a 3AT, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you do this, it makes a WORLD of difference when shooting at the range and really doesn't make the gun any bigger.
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/handalljr.htm
One tip, I put a Hogue Handall Jr. grip on it. Turn the grip upside down, slide it on, trim it with an exacto knife, and superglue it onto the grip once you get it where you want it. That made a TON of difference. That, and I put some Bersa mag finger grip extensions on the mag. I just use those for the range though to make it easier to shoot. For carry I go with the flush mag for better concealability. Good luck.
Edited to add: Here is a link to exactly what I did with the grip. If anyone has a 3AT, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you do this, it makes a WORLD of difference when shooting at the range and really doesn't make the gun any bigger.
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/handalljr.htm
HisSoldier
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I put a laser on my P3AT and found it to be a waste of money, reason? DAO doesn't allow the laser dot to ever settle down. I agree with the poster who said get a DA or SA gun, now my little Astra .22 short is very accurate! Doesn't need a laser but, unlike the Kel-Tec, could actually profit from one if there were one available. The Kel-Tec did however profit from the drilling of three dot sights.
In the end though I have found the Astra Cub with factory sights is more accurate at 15 yards than the P3AT is at 7 yards under any circumstances.
burningsquirrels
Member
let's face it... someone pops out at you, you yank the thing out of the holster and go bang... it's mostly point shooting anyways. any further, the liberals will probably just take you apart by saying you didn't need to shoot lol.
verdun59
Member
I agree trying to line up sights on a mouse gun under stress is sort of a waste of time. At the range I just try to get a visual on the front site and then fire, basically point shooting. I think in a defensive situation that's what it amounts too.......and you're right about that liberal thing
I would suggest the slip on rubber grips and finger extensions for the mags like others have, and also pay attention to trigger pull. If you are all over the place with a little pistol it is almost assuredly trigger pull. Try pulling really slow until you get used to the trigger, and use the tip of your finger.
The only thing unique I have to add is about the sight picture. I think the almost non-existent sights on the P3AT & LCP can really deceive the shooter. Even if you have good eyes it can really be hard to judge your site picture with any certainty.
What I do to compensate for this is use the sights mainly for windage purposes (make sure the front site is centered side to side). For elevation I make sure that I am looking directly down the slide, and then I line up the bullseye so that it is covered up half way by the front of the slide.
Not to brag but I have really great success with this method using my LCP. Once I got the trigger pull and sight picture figured out at 15yards I can get really good groups. As long as I don't pull a shot I can keep all my rounds in a 3" area. If you pull rounds with something this small they are going to be 5-12" out of the normal group. At least this is how it works for me. What this tells me is that there is little room for error, but if you learn to shoot the weapon it is still very accurate. The limitations are more "ours" to own.
The only thing unique I have to add is about the sight picture. I think the almost non-existent sights on the P3AT & LCP can really deceive the shooter. Even if you have good eyes it can really be hard to judge your site picture with any certainty.
What I do to compensate for this is use the sights mainly for windage purposes (make sure the front site is centered side to side). For elevation I make sure that I am looking directly down the slide, and then I line up the bullseye so that it is covered up half way by the front of the slide.
Not to brag but I have really great success with this method using my LCP. Once I got the trigger pull and sight picture figured out at 15yards I can get really good groups. As long as I don't pull a shot I can keep all my rounds in a 3" area. If you pull rounds with something this small they are going to be 5-12" out of the normal group. At least this is how it works for me. What this tells me is that there is little room for error, but if you learn to shoot the weapon it is still very accurate. The limitations are more "ours" to own.
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