Anyone else get a bunk DSA FAL?

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FN doesn't make FALs anymore last time I checked

This discussion is DSA FALs.
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Perhaps FN doesn't make them and longer, but they designed and built them for, what, 80 different counties for about 50 years, so I think they are the authority on how a FAL should come from the factory, which I believe was my point.
 
Perhaps FN doesn't make them and longer, but they designed and built them for, what, 80 different counties for about 50 years, so I think they are the authority on how a FAL should come from the factory, which I believe was my point.
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Again, this is DSA not FN. FN made their rifles for military customers, DSA does not.

FN sold rifles to customers that were almost 100% certain to be using NATO ammo, DSA does not.

DSA customers are just as likely to be using commercial .308 as NATO 7.62x51.

Setting the gas for NATO rounds then using .308 will beat the hell out of the rifle for no reason.

The cold war is over, these rifles are toys and collectibles now, not on the way to battle the Commies.

That and if there was a problem back then the armorer would fix it, the soldier didn't have to pay UPS 40 bucks to ship it back :evil:

I assume that's why my DSA came with the gas port wide open and for current customers that's probably best.
Don't know if they all come that way but the 2 I've taken out of the box straight from DSA did. SA-58's not STG's, dunno if there's any difference in factory prep.
 
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Yep...what Destructo6 said. My full-size DSA came with the gas-system properly adjusted from the factory. I feed it whatever mil-spec stuff I can find in the 200 round "battle packs". The flavor dejour is Yugoslavian. Runs just fine and shoots 2.5" at 100 yards with the less than overwhelming iron sights.
 
:rolleyes:

sure is alot of talk about gas setting in this thread... I thought the op's problems were with extraction? Not fully cycling.

Maybe I didn't read the op well enough, but it sounds like the extractor isn't working very well, or he is using laquer/poly coated rounds that are getting stuck in the chamber.

Maybe I'll just reread his first post.:confused:
 
I have never gotten the rifle to cycle more than a few rounds without locking up while trying to extract an empty cartridge.
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Yeah, I thought I read it right. Doesn't sound like a gas setting problem so much as a chamber tolerance/shell coating or extractor claw problem.
 
Yeah, I thought I read it right. Doesn't sound like a gas setting problem so much as a chamber tolerance/shell coating or extractor claw problem.
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He's started 2 other thread on the same thing. He has had several problems with the rifle and a couple of VERY knowledgeable guys have given him some pretty specific tips, including pictures. He's never acknowledged that he tried anything they recommended.

Worth reading those threads if for no other reason than to see the technical discussion from a couple of VERY sharp FAL guys here.

http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=384100

and

http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=373346
 
The price of a firearm has nothing to do with reliability. I work on lots of expensive guns with minor problems like this one. I certainly wouldn't waste all that money shipping it back to DSA for something I could take care of in a few minutes with a 50 cent sheet of sandpaper.

Dave
 
The price of a firearm has nothing to do with reliability. I work on lots of expensive guns with minor problems like this one. I certainly wouldn't waste all that money shipping it back to DSA for something I could take care of in a few minutes with a 50 cent sheet of sandpaper.
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Yep

Have you tried any of the previous tips?

DSA's are known for heavy park, just lubing and hand cycling is not gonna cut it.

The park was so heavy on the last 4 DSA receivers I built on that every thing had to be lapped in. Barrel, gas tube nut.
The carriers would not slide in the rails etc. etc
Forget the lube, just use fine valve grinding compound and lap it in.
It's a lot faster.

On mine I can rest the bolt against the base of the cartridge and let er fly and it will snap into battery.
Kinda nice not having the gas on MAX. It just lays the brass down a few feet from me instead of flinging it 50 yds away into the sticker bushes.
 
Once you have everything sliding free and not binding anywhere you can lube it.
Here's how I do it. I'm sure there are a few other ways.

Once all grit and grime from fitting are cleaned out ( hot soapy water) wipe out the mating/sliding surfaces with alcohol, paint thinner etc.

Using a heat gun/hairdryer heat the area to be lubed.
Using a Q-tip work moly paste into the area, switch sides and repeat.
Wipe off excess material and assemble.
 
Looks like the guy was more interested in posting a rant than actually getting help or opinions.

But, in true Don Quixote fashion....

DSA, in my experience, has some of the best customer service in the world after the initial 5 minutes. Virtually every CS phone call to DSA starts with them assuming that you don't know how to adjust the gas. The truth of the matter is that even many people that think they know how actually don't. However, once you get them to understand that you know how the gas system works, they are very good at taking care of their customers.

With that said, do you know how to properly adjust the gas system?
 
It is so much easier to adjust the gas once everything is sliding free.
In the out of box form that they have it is like trying to slide 2 bricks together while being forced together.

I prepped mine before firing it and tossed over 500 rnds the first time out without a problem. I was even using that nasty azz indian ammo.

Edited to add...

Mine is an Imbel but the laws of park are the same
 
Now we have it running smooth.

Time for the FAL barrel break in procedure.
As spoken by Brother W.E.G.

I like to daisy-chain .357 brushes together and wrap them in cotton patches.

About 40 inches of daisy-chained bore-seasoning awesomeness should do.

Fire a shot.

Dunk the awesomeness-chain in a bucket of Ballistol, and pull it into the barrel so it has patches pressed to the barrel from end-to-end.

Let sit for 30 minutes between shots.

After firing 10 shots with conventional ammo this way, fire five more shots with black powder.

Allow the black-powder fouling to sit for 4 hours.
The black-powder fouling draws out any remaining impurities.

Then scrub well with a soap and ammonia solution.

This seasons the metal, and prepares it to receive pore-inundation from the powder you will use in your loads.

The process should be repeated if you change powders.
 
FWIW, here's an update - I sent the gun to DSA at my expense over a month ago and they finally contacted me to tell me they couldn't replicate the problem and that they had never heard of the Lithuanian Brass Privi Partisan ammunition causing the symptoms I experienced but that they did not test any of it.

They fired 50 rounds and experienced no problems at all.

They are replacing a few springs that supposedly could have contributed to feeding problems but they were at a loss to explain the issue of the bolt and bolt carrier locking up on extraction.

I really don't understand this. The only thing I can imagine is that I have some very weird, misshaped ammunition or something although it has been fine running through bolt-actions. I am going to cross my fingers and try the Lithuanian stuff again. If that doesn't work, I will try another brand/batch.

Can't say this makes any sense to me at all. I hope that this problem has been magically fixed and all will be well when I receive the gun.

I'd love to not blame DSA for this - especially because the customer service has been pretty decent despite long waits - but I used ammunition recommended by them; they have checked the rifle and nothing is wrong with it; they didn't see any signs I had screwed up...and yet more than half a year after spending the money I still don't have a working FAL. If it works now I won't complain, but I still would have rather had a working Century 6 months ago for half the cost.
 
When you get it back, make sure you take care of the sharp edges on the feed rails of the receiver.

Run it on the maximum gas setting until you are sure it will function with your ammo on a lower setting.

I think much of the agony you seem to be experiencing with this rifle is the product of your belief that "sending it back" should be the answer. Now is the time for you to take responsibility for understanding fully how your rifle operates, and learning what things affect that. Once you think about this with sufficient concentration and determination, I'm sure you will be much happier, and much more confident in your FAL.
 
Ohhhhh, PARKerize. I understand. You crazy kids and your hip lingo.

I used to be with it. Then they changed what "it" was. Now what I'm with isn't "it," and what is "it" seems strange and scary. - Grandpa Simpson
 
but they were at a loss to explain the issue of the bolt and bolt carrier locking up on extraction.
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So... you still dont understand.

It is extracting just fine, it is not ejecting.

All FAL's do this if there is insufficant gas or too much friction in the system.

How many times does the "Pogo" need to be explained to you?

Now is the time for you to take responsibility for understanding fully how your rifle operates
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:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:Do ya think so Gary?
 
FN doesn't make FALs anymore last time I checked

This discussion is DSA FALs.
Click to expand...
Perhaps FN doesn't make them and longer, but they designed and built them for, what, 80 different counties for about 50 years, so I think they are the authority on how a FAL should come from the factory, which I believe was my point.
Click to expand...
You realize that this is like arguiung with your homebuilder about why the lights aren't on, right?

"Dude, the lights aren't on, it's dark in here."

"Uh, sir, you need to flip the switch on the wall."

"WHY WOULD YOU SELL ME A HOUSE WITHOUT THE SWITCH BEING AT THE PROPER SETTING????? MY LAST HOMEBUILDER PRE-SET THE LIGHT SWITCHES TO ON SO I WOULD NOT HAVE TO DEAL WITH THIS!!!!!"

Mike :)
 
Guys,
Sending it back was the last ditch option. The last thing I wanted was to spend $50 on shipping and wait another month while the rifle was diagnosed. I had 3 long conversations with DSA over the course of the first several months of ownership and each time I followed their recommendations to no avail. I've played with the gas settings from top to bottom and experienced the same problem where the empty case gets stuck as its being removed from the chamber.

I am not a gunsmith. I don't want to be a gunsmith. I will not start taking metal off a $1000+ gun that is still under warranty. Hopefully all will be well when the rifle is returned.
 
Hope all turns out well. My DSA Stg58 has been running perfectly with Aussie, Port, and SA since I got it in '03 for about $800. Actually, it hasn't been running much since last year - only have about 5k x51 rounds left and I'm afraid to shoot them.
 
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