Fighting Revolver

Many of us in this thread have restricted ourselves to what we already own and that is fine but the OP asked, "...what features and characteristics should a "fighting revolver" have if you were in the market for new one..."

In that OP's context what could justify a 6-shooter over the 8-shooter?
This is a great question, and why my answer was
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Ideally, I'd like to find one of the Performance Center 5-inchers...
 
Designed from it's very beggining as a fighting handgun. And let's face it the .45 acp is among if not the best fighting handgun cartridge of all time.
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And unlike many of the others shown here it has proven itself in the absolute word combat conditions ever.
 
If I knew I was going into a possible gun fight, I would bring my S&W model 681 which has HOGUE grips, had a trigger job to smooth the action and make it double action only and been MAGNA-PORTED. It shoots accurately, is reliable and I am very familiar with it. It can also shoot the .357 ammo without a problem and is heavy enough that recoil would not be that big a problem.
On the other hand, I would not carry this gun unless I knew I was going into a fight. It is heavy.
I have carried mid size guns like the S&W K-frames and RUGER Security SIx and would use them for everyday carry.
 
If I knew I were going to a gunfight, I think I would go the other direction unless there were no other option.

And in that case I would take a rifle and a dozen loyal friends.

Revolver in the hands of a competent user should be very adequate for almost every IMPROPTU gunfight.
For impromptu gunfight, pretty much WHOEVER SHOOTS FIRST WINS.
 
"For impromptu gunfight, pretty much WHOEVER SHOOTS FIRST WINS."
Having never been in one, I'm not the resident expert (and I hope it remains that way).

That said, from a lot of reading, watching YouTube vids, and so on, my impression is that whoever shoots first may not necessarily shoot well.... and so, perhaps, "whoever shoots best (providing he is not incapacitated immediately) stands a good chance" of winning.

Lot of variables, there, I know.
But for most of us, we are not going to shoot first. We are going to react, and hopefully survive the initial outbreak of hostilities, and play catch-up from there. That is the way it goes. We are not the aggressor, and will very likely be the last one to know that a gunfight is going on.

Unfortunate, but it's part of the deal. We are going to be behind the 8-ball from the beginning. That is why we need to be twice as calm, twice as accurate, and (probably) twice as lucky.

Sucks, but the alternative is going unarmed, giving up and leaving your fate to the ruthless.
No thanks.
 
Other than the cliche, "a fighting revolver is the revolver you have to defend yourself with," IYHO, what features and characteristics should a "fighting revolver" have if you were in the market for new one, and you knew you would (possibly) be in a gun fight aka might have to defend your life with one?
If I knew there was gonna be trouble I'd want a 105mm howitzer loaded with bee hive rounds
 
re: "Fighting Revolver"

Given my hand size, I'd go with a S&W K-frame .357 -- this, with a 4" barrel. For close-in military-police encounters, I'd NOT need adjustable sights. Being basically a rifleman, I'd want adjustable sights -- I can be very OCD. I've owned such a revolver in .357 and it was very accurate.

Had I larger hands, I'd go with an L-frame or larger-frame S&W. Larger bores and heavier bullets is where I'd like to be; however, I was issued the hand-size I have. Were I hunting with a .357, I'd want to have a 6" barrel -- some extra velocity (?) and longer sight radius. I don't think I'd put optics on a revolver. I am from a former era.

From all I've read and from discussions I've had with reloaders and those who've owned them, the .41 Mag. is hard to beat. I've never owned one. What I know is that they are more efficient in powder use and can get the same jobs done as the .44 Mag.. Again, this is what other shooters say. Factory-loaded .44 Mag. ammunition is FAR more available than is the .41 Mag..
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. “Distinguished Combat Revolver”
This I have owned in .357. I passed it down to a younger generation. I've not many years left to live (if years). It has come time to distribute items and knowledge that I have acquired over the decades. "You can't take it with you." How true. Mine had a pinned barrel and recessed chambers -- incredibly accurate. Rather scary accurate, actually. I continue to exist and this age in which we exist, what is one to call it? The "short-cut age" / "it will suffice age" ... how decidedly sad. There comes a time when to exit stage left.
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I'm stuck in the revolver world because at my age and physical condition I can no longer perform the manual-of-arms for any semi-auto . I knew a fight was eminent I think I would choose one of these two...and carry the other one as close as I could as back up.

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Top gun is a custom blue steel 45 ACP Mountain Gun, a model S&W never offered. The lower gun is also a custom, built on a 1937 Brazilian 45 ACP someone made into a poor version of a target gun. This gun is what a retired gunsmith friend salvaged from it. A 3.5" barrel with a hand made, fixed rear sight to replace the fragile installation of a S&W adjustable rear, and a completely had made rib and ramp to hold a dovetail front sight.

These and all the loaded Fullmoon clips I could fit into my kit bag.

Dave
 
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you knew you would (possibly) be in a gun fight aka might have to defend your life with one?
If I knew ahead of time I might be in a gunfight, I wouldn't go there in the first place. If I "gotta go with what I got," it's an S&W 27-2.

If I have time to pick, it's a CZ 75D PCR.
 
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Depends on how you define "fighting". CCW or home defense ? Like defining "one shot stop". I have seen several videos where perpetrators were shot once, screamed, ran some distance and keeled over.
 
What I carried for several years…
S&W 686 with Winchester 145gr SilverTips (low flash) in Safariland Comp III speedloaders.
(Think a spring plunger loaded moon clips).
If given a choice, I preferred the Model 66. It’s almost a pound lighter than the 686. You carry it infinitely more than you use it.
After a 12-15hr shift in 90+ degree heat driving a patrol boat/atv/pickup truck a gun belt with 12rds (2 speedloaders) ammo, hand cuffs, pepper spray, radio, cellphone, asp baton, and a 4” 686 got HEAVY!!!
The S&W list thebModel 66 and Model 686 with 4" barrels with only a 3oz difference. Are you comparing it to a 66 snubbie?
 
Other than the cliche, "a fighting revolver is the revolver you have to defend yourself with," IYHO, what features and characteristics should a "fighting revolver" have if you were in the market for new one, and you knew you would (possibly) be in a gun fight aka might have to defend your life with one?

1) Enhanced sights - Meprolight night sights, or some combination of fiber optic front/rear.

2) Proper stocks as outlined in "No Second Place Winner" by William Jordan (chapter 7). Herretts Stocks Jordan Troopers meet this specification. Unfortunately, they are no longer made.

3) Chamferred charge holes to facilitate cartridge "flow" into the cylinder.

4) Radiused trigger

5) Dehorned hammer

6) Action job for a smooth, consistent double action trigger pull and positive reset.

7) Cylinder tune, general maintenance if needed.

8) Caliber of your choice that you can use to pass the "5 Yard Roundup". I cannot pass it with Federal 44A 44 Magnum, but have no problem with Speer Gold Dot 200 grain 44 Special. I can pass with 357 Magnum too. This corroborates Bill Jordan's opinion that 44 Magnum is just too much for the shooter for serious self-defense shooting. I can pass with Georgia Arms 44 Magnum 240 FMJ at 1,000 FPS, but it's almost 44 Special. I also cannot pass with a J-Frame in 357 Magnum or hot 38 Special (due to lack of patience to practice with those terrible guns).

That's it. The rest is figuring out how to carry the gun and three full reloads.
 
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Here are three sets of Herretts Jordan Troopers. The top on the 629 4" is a normal set. The bottom two guns have Jordan Troopers cut to "boot" length. They just barely support my pinky finger. They're not too pleasant with 44 Magnum, but are just fine with 44 Special (or 240 grain bullet at 1,000 FPS). I have since put another set of standard JT on the 629 3" (bottom).

The middle gun is a near mint 1970's S&W Model 19. I refuse to carry or shoot it past the 12 rounds I put through it. I put JT boots on it anyway.

Plate carrier is a First Spear Strandhogg and is included to improve the "tactical-ness" of this post.


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Early on I mentioned the S&W Combat Masterpiece/Model 15
in .38 Special as a fighting revolver and it is/was.

But truth is, any revolver someone is proficient with of whatever
size, caliber or manufacturer is a fighting revolver. No one
gun fits all scenarios or circumstances or those who use them.

Even in some narrow circumstances a .22 LR or preferably a .22
magnum will get the job done.
 
The 5 yard thing in post 121..............things surely can be close, personal, & dirty.

Yup. Main thing though is I use it to test my current skills with the gun in a very short string of fire. The course of fire very quickly reveals all flaws. I usually end up crying and crawling out of the range, but occasionally I'll write a few things down to work on.
 
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