Hornady AP Lock-n-Load Custom Upgrades

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Idano

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I have been getting a few messages inquiring about the details on some of the customizations I have made to my Hornady AP Lock-n-Load. So I thought I would just gather them in one place with the details instead of send out multiple messages. You got it, I am lazy but you probably already know that since I have a progressive. I hope they help if you have any question I will be glad to help you out.


Dillon Roller Handle Modification

If you don't own the Tap & Die needed and don't want to buy one I would recommend taking the Dillon handle to your local machine shop along with your Hornady handle to match the threads. The threads are 5/8" x 18 Threads Per Inch (TPI)). Have them cut off the machined portion of the Dillon handle and then thread it up one and a half inches. This will give you enough threads to install the nut off the Hornady handle and be able to screw it into your press so that it just barely protrudes through the knuckle.

Roller Handle:

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Digital Case Counter
The case counter is a Red Lion Cub 2000 digital meter I bought new on eBay for $17 delivered. I used a reed switch that I mounted on the base of the press with 3M double sided auto body tape and then just stuck a magnet on the bottom of the sub plate to trip the reed switch. Here are the pictures:



Low Primer Alarm

My best friend picked up an RCBS low primer alarm off eBay for $6. I mounted right on the plastic tip of the outer housing that centers the inner primer tube without any problem. I put an oring around the outer housing of the tube for spacer so I could use a larger oring to clamp the alarm in place. With out the oring to clamp the alarm in place; without the oring it's easy to bump the alarm and dislodge the inner primer tube. By the way that is a 1/8" brass rod with a washer swagged at the top to trip the alarm. The original rod that came with the alarm was plastic and too short it would trip with 10 primers left; now it trips at zero.

Low Primer Alarm

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40 S&W Casefeeder Tube Insert

When I my press was still fairly new I bought 5,000 rounds of 40 S&W range brass. I was having a problem with them getting stuck in the small plastic feed tube; when I used the large tube they would get cocked going into the pivot block an mis-feeding. So I took a 3/4" piece of copper tubing and polished it so it would fit into the large feed tube end and flared it at the top so it would grab the lip inside the feed tube end where the plastic tube sits. The 3/4" copper tube keeps the brass sitting straight when they enter the pivot block so they feed perfectly.

40 S&W Casefeeder Tube Insert:

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UPDATE: I haven't been using this anymore since the first time I resized that initial 5,000 rounds of range brass since everything that I have been shooting out of my H&K has been feeding just fine using the small casefeeder tubes. I don't know if it was because the tube were new or the brass was shot out of guns with a larger chamber then my H&K. I still keep it around so when I get more range brass if I need it I'll have it ready.​
 

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Idano,

Thanks for posting this info. My LnL AP should be getting here this afternoon so I'm scouring forums for any kinds of tips n tricks to optimize performance.

The counter device is what really interests me... I'm running through ideas in my head on how to adapt it to my 550 as well :D

The magnet on the underside to activate the switch is pretty slick... I'd been stuck thinking ala 550 where there is more of a chute for the cartridge to travel down... and trip a micro switch of some kind on its way down. This (magnet + reed switch) is probably a lot simpler to implement!

Thanks,

Monte
 
milanuk,

I got the idea of the case counter off YouTube from a Lee LoadMaster video but the idea to use the ram came from Dillon. I saw where Dillon use to sell a mechanical counter that was triggered of the of the stroke of the ram. The nice thing about using a reed switch is that the magnet can be placed anywhere on the ram and there is no moving parts to fail. If you want you can use a hall effect switch too, but the reed switch was cheaper. I think I paid $3 for 25 reed switches off eBay. Here is a Cub counter on eBay
 
Stupid question here... all the electronic devices I've worked with have been in industrial/utility scenarios... what are you using for a power supply to drive these units? Just a little DC power supply tucked under the bench, or something else?
 
This particular meter runs on a 3V lithium battery supposedly for 3-4 yrs and it is alway on. Time will tell, so far it has been between running between 2-3 years so far.
 
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