Great pic TR. Great info so far too.
I'm also into the "long-range" game (maybe intermediate-range would be better really). But we do it in a slightly different way. We use the specialty pistols--mostly XP-100's, Savage Strikers and MOA's.
Going out to ranges beyond point blank, is really sort of a college course in practical mathematics. It's really simple math, just rarely applied in the field. This is especially true with applying optics, and understanding the intracies of reticle/turret applications for downrange zeroing and rangefinding.
My limit on big game is 500 yds. and only under the most ideal of conditions. 400 yds. under some wind, but it would have to be consisitent (as possible). Almost all the factors (to intermediate range) can be accounted for except wind as Z has already said.
My go-to elk rig is a 7-270 WSM XP-100/17" 7-twist Pac-Nor/McMillan stock/Ken Farrell base (for a different reason than normally used for)/Burris 3-12x Ball. Plex reticle and turrets. Reticle is calibrated to true MOA drop. The optic is now back in Maine also for a BullzEye Pro power booster which will shorten the too-long eye relief (the reason for the KF base) of the Burris LER, and add some magnification. The rig shoots the 200 gr. ULD Wildcat bullet @ 2525 mv. with a G1 BC of .770.
My antelope/varmint rig is a Savage Striker 243 WSSM/8-twist 18" Broughton
barrel/4.5-14x Leup. VX-III with Varmint Hunters reticle, turrets. I've taken one coyote in a 10 mph wind at 530 yds. and 4 antelope between 295 yds. and 425 with it. It shoots the 117 gr. DTAC bullet at 2525 once again, and reticle is cald. for true drop vs. MOA subtension.
My other rig that i'm currently using for coyotes post-fur season is a 6.5-270 WSM XP and i have Darrell Holland's Leup. Mk 4 6.5-20x FFP Ultimate Mil Reticle installation. I love that reticle (
www.hollandguns.com ) and just killed a coyote last week at 435 yds. in avg. 5 mph 9 o'clock wind.
For steel shooting here's the cheapest most portable system we could ever think of-- call the local brickyard and see if they have any cinder block molds. Often they get out of spec and they trash them. They'll take a bullet strike with the best of AR-10/50 (close to it at least) and keep on ticking. U have to burn holes in it as a carbon bit won't touch it. Get 3 pieces of rebar and 2 copper or galvanized plumbing T's. Pound 2 rebar into the ground and slide the T's on top, lift slightly and slide the 3rd rebar through parallel to the ground. Hang steel with the rubber bungee cord S-hooks that r always found on the road. Get the $1 white paint from K/Wal-Mart and your set. U can also use the heavier S-hooks on tie-downs that r closed on one end--found on the road too.
Here is an on-line article i wrote several years ago for basic ballistic and rangefinding reticle applications--
www.ottllc.com/specialtypistols/sp20.pdf
"Thanks I was shooting a Remington 700 BDL 300 Mag with a Meopta 3x12x56 sitting on top. It is just a standard hunting rifle but it has always been pretty accurate."
By applying a sort of tactical system (assuming it has a plex-style reticle in it), u may be surprised what could be accomplished with that optic at ranges out to 500+/-.
Reticle applications for downrange zeroing and rangefinding is some of the most fascinating aspects of longer-range shooting. By applying a modification of the mil-ranging formula, i was able to calculate the size of a steel tgt. at 1000 yds. recently to almost .25" of it's true dimension--amazing stuff really. That's probably the driving force behind my research into longer ranges is the mathematics involved--for me it's intriguing.