Newb to hand loading: Charging a round?

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Don't know about those Tula cases some have boxer (normal US type primer)
with one hole in the bottom of the case others are not boxer primer. Look in one to see if there is one hole in the bottom of the case otherwise you can mess up you decap pin.

The 9mm bullets are lead and I believe Glock says not to use lead bullets in their guns due to the type of rifleing they use. People do with no problems others say don't. I can send you some deprimed and resized 9mm brass and some samples of a couple different .45 bullets to try.
Let me go check my in shed real quick and I will give you the list of what I have.
 
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Dipper vs Measure

I am of the school of thought that Lee's dippers can be as accurate as any powder measure made. But the accuracy depends on the steadiness of hand of the operator. Not easy, but doable.

Certainly, it is easier with a good powder measure, but on a budget and with a good scale as backup, a dipper can do as well as a measure. Besides, using dippers, you will never run out of powder without knowing it.

Lost Sheep
 
Checked the shed,
I will send you
Some deprimed resized 9mm brass and
these .45 bullets to try.
50 RMR (Rocky Mountain reloading) 230gr Plated round nose
50 MBC (Missouri Bullet Company) 230gr Lead coated round nose
50 MBC 200gr coated SWC. Semi wadcutters.

and if you want the 9mm lead 125s. I don't own a Glock so you might ask for others opinions on using them in your Glock.

Also I don't mean to imply there is anything at all wrong with the .45 bullets you have, just wanted to help out and give you some others to try. All of these work really well with HP38.

(HP38 works great in 9mm as well :D )

I also don't want to get you sidetracked by using a bunch of different bullets to start out but this way you can try some others without having to buy a bunch. I would not worry about trying them until you have loaded all (or most) of the ones you have first and have the process down better.

I will get them in the mail this week.
 
Not much to go wrong with dippers, they work fine, probably millions of rounds loaded with dippers.
It would be nice if Lee made a "Pistol" (smaller volume, smaller steps) set in sizes like the disks they make for the ProDisk powder measure.
I would bet people would buy them.
Like these disk sizes
0.3 0.46
0.32 0.49
0.34 0.53
0.37 0.57
0.4 0.61
0.43 0.66


But hey I found a use for a can of PlayDough that I had for years with my dipper set before I got my powder measures and my turrent press.


I will also send you my load info for the bullets, I know it's safe in my guns and not close to the max, but you should always check any load data you get online or from some one else before using it.
 
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Grim Peeper said:
Ok I see now the the lee spoon set is volumetic and not by caiber that's good. But if they made a small adjustable dipper id be all over that too. Also hey man by ear plugs did you mean that it that puller if use inproperly could cause a rebound on the over end of the cartridge and cause the primer to ignite?
Click to expand...
Not at all concerned about ignition. It takes several solid whacks to pull a bullet. Solid whacks on a solid base with a tool made of very dense plastic make for a sharp noise that is quite annoying. If your pulling s round or two you can get by, but if your pulling much more than that then it starts sounding like a woodpecker trying to get into your brain. I have no clue what the decibel range is on those whacks but it's gotta be up in the 70s.
 
Grim Peeper,
I also want to say I don't consider myself an "Expert", lots of other people here have far more experience and knowledge than I do. (Some of which are also helping you here) But in the same breath I am not a novice, and have loaded lots of shotgun, pistol and rifle rounds and still have all my fingers and other body parts, except maybe some brain cells.

I certainly don't believe I have given you any bad advice and consider my advice trustworthy even though others may disagree with me.

(My sense of humor is, however, maybe not so good.)
 
Well I appreciate that you all have been able to work with me on this and been able to see around my noviceness. We all start somewhere right and I'm glad I started here I've been on this site for years and I keep comin back because of the great people and advice. I also really respect that a lot of you still see the joy and simplistic pleasure in reloading unlike people that will just say stuff like "just buy loaded ammo" I think they are totally missing the point which is to take the hobby to a new level and that's what I plan to do.

Because I'm so new to reloading I actually kind of like the simplicity of the dippers for now because I can personally see the charge size and acquire it with my fingers and eyes so well see where this takes me for now. I did notice that a lot grains seem to stick to the dipper like static like stickiness and makes a little bit of a mess and may throw things off a bit but I sure I'll master the technique shortly. Also I have seen people shoot lead rounds through a glock and that doesn't shake me much and certainly doesn't with the 1911 I shoot lead through it a lot.
 
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If you like to use dippers, you might try making some from empty brass. The one on the bottom holds cut down cases... 9mm, 380, 357, 7.62x39, .223.


http://s688.photobucket.com/user/gloob27x/media/DSCF5403_zps64d674ca.jpg.html?o=8

The cases pop in/out and are held by the extractor groove. This saves a heck a lot of work making new dippers. It's a whole lot easier to trim and debur a lone case without a handle. And it's a whole lot easier testing/calibrating a dipper that has a handle; it takes 20-30 cumulative throws to get a good reading, and it's fairly hard to get accurate throws without a handle! This is in addition to the fact you don't have to make/attach a handle to every dipper (and failed attempts).


The one on top is made to hold 25 caliber brass tubing. I dremel the groove into the tube using a drill as a lathe.
Granular substances are not like liquids. Considerable variation in amount measured can be due to settling. As you manipulate the dipper, settling and compaction occurs and you will get a bit more than you might think. This is less pronounced with perfectly spherical powders and more a factor with irregularly shaped powders. But a bad practice (if I interpreted your post 83 correctly).
Click to expand...
+1. For me, the best way to use a dipper for fluffy powders is to just throw a heaping scoop without adding or removing any after the initial fill. Just push the dipper into a bowl of powder and let gravity fill it. The more you fiddle with it, the more variability you introduce from letting the powder settle. I just accept that a heaping scoop of "cornflake" powders will have some amount of variability, and I might occasionally reject a scoop due to looking too big/small, in which case I dump it and dip it over. And I try to choose a smaller diameter scoop where it's practical or where accuracy really matters.
 
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Lots of folks have made their own dippers.

attachment.php
 
Grim Peeper said:
Well I appreciate that you all have been able to work with me on this and been able to see around my noviceness. We all start somewhere right and I'm glad I started here I've been on this site for years and I keep comin back because of the great people and advice. I also really respect that a lot of you still see the joy and simplistic pleasure in reloading unlike people that will just say stuff like "just buy loaded ammo" I think they are totally missing the point which is to take the hobby to a new level and that's what I plan to do.

Because I'm so new to reloading I actually kind of like the simplicity of the dippers for now because I can personally see the charge size and acquire it with my fingers and eyes so well see where this takes me for now. I did notice that a lot grains seem to stick to the dipper like static like stickiness and makes a little bit of a mess and may throw things off a bit but I sure I'll master the technique shortly. Also I have seen people shoot lead rounds through a glock and that doesn't shake me much and certainly doesn't with the 1911 I shoot lead through it a lot.
Click to expand...
Some folks never get past the simplicity of dippers. I have 2 throws that I despise but keep trying to learn to accept. I use one with rifle loading to throw ball powder to about .3 grains lower than intended charge then I trickle up. It's just as slow as any other method, and just as labor intensive. On handgun I use a combination of homemade dippers that are consistent and really close to what I want to load. Just need clothes hanger wire, a piece or two of small caliber brass (22 mag for most of mine. 22 LR for some, 25acp and 32acp for others) and a way to trim that brass back until you get what you want. I always test weigh about 10 dips before loading a tray of brass to make sure I'm using the right one, and that I'm dipping it properly.
 
The Lee dippers are plastic and can get a static charge. That will cause powder to stick. They make anti static sprays (posted here someplace, I don't rmember the name).or you can try rubbing it with one of those anti static dryer sheets.

Either will probably help prevent the grains from sticking.

I shoot lots of lead, and coated lead in my pistols, 9mm, 9MAK, .357, .45.
I just did not have any experience using it in a Gloack and did not want to give you bad info.
I will send the 9mm bullets along with everything else for you to try.
 
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ljnowell said:
The concept of sizing down the bullets and causing tension issues is highly debatable. I believe it had to do with the manufacturing of the die.

For instance I have seen indisputable proof of it happening. A person I trust very much loaded ten rounds and pulled them and all ten were sized down. I did the same and mine were perfect.

I believe some FCDs are poorly constructed with undersized carbide sizers.
Click to expand...
I will not dispute your measurements, as I have heard similar stories elsewhere.

The cure, of course, is to knock the post-sizing ring out of the die or have Lee make one to your specifications (whcih they will do for a nominal fee).

But the cause....there's the rub.

Some brass is thicker-walled than others. What brass were you and your friend using and did you measure the thickness?

In the interest of science and curiosity, did you (or were you able to) swap dies and compare results again?

You have a unique opportunity to do some investigative sleuthing if you are so inclined. A more complete set of data would shed light on the controversial FCD questions.

Thanks for posting. Yours is the first time I have actually had first-hand testimony directly comparing two dies of the same caliber.

Lost Sheep
 
Those are some neat I ideas for dippers. I like the twirly wire one with the 380 case I think I'll do something like that. And thanks again DudeDog for your generosity. THR Seriously Rocks!!! Once I get this 45acp reloading down pat I'm will definately be on to the 9mm and I'll try some of these DIY dipper ideas.
 
Reloadable if it has one central flash hole (Boxer primed)

Not reloadable if it has two small off-center flash holes. (Berdan primed)

rc
 
One hole deprime goes down knocks out the primer, 2 or more holes (not in the center may damage the pin. (or it may not)

Check your brass and get rid of the non boxer primed brass.
It can be reloaded but thats a completly different process to depime and requires different primers.

I can hopefully drop off your box of goodies at the Post Office tomorrow.
Hope you enjoy them.

PS: looks like kowadelko means anvil.
 
I never used load blocks just keep rounds in nylon zipper bags but that's a good thought for org ionizing special made loads.
 
Grim Peeper said:
I never used load blocks just keep rounds in nylon zipper bags but that's a good thought for org ionizing special made loads.
Click to expand...
Two of my primary uses for load blocks:

1 Allowing the examination of many charged cases simultaneously. The lets you see that all the levels of propellant are equal, highlighting any under-charged or over-charged cases.

2 Making is more difficult to accidentally knock over one or many charged cases.

There are other uses/advantages, but those are compelling enough for me.

Lost Sheep
 
Once loaded, the round can go into anything (like ziplocs) that keeps them labeled & segregated.

During loading, however, the use of a loading block ensures you don't mess things up/knock things
over at a minimum, and can save your hands/face/eye sooner or later as you can see all filled cases
at once to check for anomolies.

I prefer wooden blocks...
http://www.brownells.com/reloading/loading-blocks/wooden-blocks/index.htm
but there are a lot of just-as-good plastic ones...
http://www.brownells.com/reloading/loading-blocks/wooden-blocks/index.htm
...or (if you have a drill press) you can make your own.
 
You're the man! Goi g to the range hopefully this weekend if not early next week and we will see how my first 45acp reloads fire. :)
 
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