Re barreling a post '64 Winchester 70

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I don't follow a break in procedure per say. It depends on the barrel.
A nitrocarburized (melonited) barrel needs more tendering with the first shots than lets say a SS. lapped barrel that might go for a long time w/o any fouling at all.
I always give a good cleaning before using and dry. Then might give a cleaning after a few shots and see how is going.
But there is no secret recipe..., voodoo, candle, chicken leg, etc...
Just common sense. Might want to go easy for the first few shots clean a bit to see how is doing and that is all.
If a patch comes out w/o copper then there is no point on keep cleaning regularly like some ritual procedures suggest.
 
The Range Report!

There is good, bad, ugly and strange.

I'm very happy with my first day out. I am using loads that were worked up for my Savage heavy barrel .308, the gun of course do not like the same rounds. The Winchester performed best with the favored Savage load, though. These results are not stellar, and I didn't expect them to be. While shooting I realized that even after opening up the stock more to float the barrel, it was not enough. I could slide card stock up, but it had contact. I haven't even measured freebore on the new gun and didn't have any load variations for ladder testing. Also, my sporter rifle benchrest technique leaves a lot to be desired, which I will get to. I'll start with the good. I got so close to MOA with Amax 178's with Varget.
IMG_20170309_131740.jpg
IMG_20170309_131920.jpg

This is a great result, in my opinion. I can't ask for much more without actually working up a load for this barrel. The other rounds that I brought did not perform as well.
IMG_20170309_131750.jpg
Not loving this round......
IMG_20170309_131755.jpg
really not loving this one....... Check out that horizontal stringing? Any theories?

And then the strange. I think that this speaks to my poor technique. I shot these without the rest, simulating resting one arm in a tree stand. They grouped better than the ones from the rest, which I didn't expect. Ignore the upper right - sighters.
IMG_20170309_131802.jpg

So, given the fact that I've done zero workup and my barrel isn't floating, getting these results from the 178 Amax load is a great sign. I shot 40 rounds and cleaned in the middle, very little copper.

Takeaways:

I'm really bad at shooting a sporter from the rest. I don't really want to attach a benchrest adaptor, though. With the light rifle and heavy trigger, I can't even get close to the free recoil scenario that I can get with the 12 pound savage with accutrigger. I could tell that my hold and contact was all over the place. I wonder if a bipod would be better?

This rifle will prove to be plenty accurate for hunting.



I will follow up with a proper ladder test after making sure the barrel stays floated. Bart B, you were right about the clearances. I really thought I had taken enough off after I went back and did it again.
 
Nice a little tinkering on loads and the rifle and i think youll get them under a moa.

I think bedding may help the stringing, your action maybe wiggling around. Im certainly.not an expert at diagnosing stuff like that tho
 
I was thinking the same thing. I'm certain that I'll get under MOA, no problem. But I will also have to do load ladder testing with hunting bullets. I have a variety of Nosler seconds from 120-190gr and some 168 Berger hunting VLD's that I have yet to try. I have to measure the freebore and get a VLD seater stem, or drill out my lee seater a little before getting into the serious load testing. I will also be bedding. Recoil was no big deal, I expected much worse with the plastic butt plate and all. I don't even feel it in my shoulder now. More reports to come.....
 
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Glad to see you had some nice groups the first day out.
These modern winchester barrels have a reputation for being fairly consistent with a wide range of loads.
Once you remove some of the known variables from the equation I think groups will start to closing up consistently.
There is no one single recipe for all and you already know some of the things you can do to improve that are simple enough.
Personally I would skip the skim bedding and give as much structure as you can and also give the channel plenty of relief expecting other barrel swaps
in the future that might have a tad larger and longer shank.
If you hunt with bipod then get one otherwise get the rifle to shoot the same way you expect to be using it on the field.
If you want to do a bit of push and/or pull shooting driving the rifle you can use the sling in different fashions.
With my hunting rifles I take lots of alternative positions. I might seek initial shots and zero on the bench but quickly move
to prone, barricade/wall, off hand free standing, even seating on the ground, etc... If you use a shooting stick then try that too.
I think with the heavy loads like the 178amax a bit of extra weight on these type of rifles only helps. Still pretty good groups.
 
I get the concept of practical shooting, but I'm always hung up on taking away the human element and finding a few great loads first. It's probably the wrong way of looking at a hunting rifle. But I'm sure that I will chase the loads for 500 rounds. It's half the fun for me, really. Anyway, I'm quite pleased with today's result and it will show the progression of accuracy while making the other improvements, my technique included. Thanks again, 1stmarine.
 
the amount of thread into the action determines how deep the barrel goes and this is perfet to set headspace.
Then the nut just locks that in place. If we didn't have a nut we would need a shoulder or a tight collar or something that would make the barrel
stop and stay put at that precise point. Some small arms do not have threads and use pressure and cross pins to lock the tenon in the action.
I think the bedding will do wonders for the heavier calibers. These rifles are just too light including the 7mm-08 although the fashion seems to
be even lighter rifles for those calibers that IMO is a mistake. My petite daughter can carry a 9lb rifle all day.
 
I think I just replied to an earlier post! lol
anyway the bedding is a good idea no matter what.
Also you might want to order a spare barrel nut at some point. This is the ruger one from PTG (same threads) so this will work with the rifle. Some ruger and tikka barrels will work with your action too as soon
as they are set up with enough threads for the nut. A different story is cosmetics if they go past the relief area in front of the nut to cover the remaining threads. Just aesthetics.

Also I think it would be nice for the forum folks if you can summarize the key learnings in your own words from your own perspective as
this might be helpful for other winchester owners having similar goals as yourself. Like discussed many times before the directives and benefits are the same as any other system using the barrel nut. Perhaps why
everyone is going that route following savage footsteps. I am not saying this is the only way or the best way always, but more times than not is the right thing for the average hunter / seasonal rifle.
 
My 375H&H M70 patterned like a shotgun until I got it bedded. Winchester make some great rifles, some not so great ones make it out the door. Once I had it bedded and the crown cleaned up it will shoot one ragged hole at 100 and holds nice and tight at 300.
 
Sorry to bring this back to life but I’m curious how it’s shooting after over a year of shooting?

1stMarine... from what I ready. Did you make the barrel nut?
 
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