Smith and Wesson Model 64 38 special?

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$250 for a DAO revolver that's only chambered in .38 special with non-adjustable sights?

I wouldn't buy it unless I could feel the action first; if it's not buttery smooth, probably a pass for me. Though, it could be something worth looking at to get into revolver matches. If it was cheaper, I'd look into it, though.
 
Model 64s are great revolvers. I'm going to guess that the ones on the J&G page are ex-police guns modified to shoot only double action, note the bobbed hammer. These make excellent home defense guns, but you need to practice to become a proficient DA shooter. With 158 grain bullets you should be able to keep all shots into a ragged one hole group at 7 yards. The price is OK, not great, lately the prices on K frames has been going up.
 
Actually, these days they represent a decent buy at $250, but remember to add shipping and FFL fees to that. The final cost might be closer to $300 rather then $250. They appear to be older revolvers without the sometimes detested lock, and have non-MIM lockwork. To some this matters, to others not.

As a defensive weapon, the bobed hammer / DAO has some advantages. In most cases the hammer can be replaced with a standard, unmodified one if you prefer having the single-action mode. But that could add an additional $50.00 to the package. So it boils down to a matter of choice, and what you want to use the gun for.
 
I bought one of the square butt 64s from J&G. It shows some usual signs of being carried a lot, surface dings, banged up wood grips, etc. However, mechanically its excellent. The trigger action is good, about what one would expect from an older production S&W. I really like DAO revolvers (I almost never use single action, of all the revolvers I own only one isn't DAO). I bought it to shoot IDPA, and I think the revolvers J&G has would be excellent for that.

The square butt guns they are selling might be a little more banged up finish wise, but they are also $20 or so cheaper, and IMO, better put together than the newer production 64s with the round butts they are selling.
 
Yes, usually by only replacing the hammer with a conventional one, but sometimes a trigger is also required. The problem, if you want to call it that, is that a hammer and/or trigger now run around $50.00 ea. So you're looking at a $50 to $100 conversion cost. You have to decide if it's worth it or not.
 
Fine guns, IMHO. I once shot top of class at an LFI-1 class with a 4-inch DAO model 64, and I have even shot bowling pins (albeit with corbon +P+ 158 LSWCHP at well over 1050 fps out of four inches) just for fun. If you want a solid home defense and plink around revolver, this looks like a good choice, assuming that they time up correctly etc...
 
You would probably be better off buying a M65 in .357 Magnum from CDNN. You won't find the guns on the web site but you will find them in their downloadable catalog. Last time I checked I think they were right around $325 but I could be wrong. Best thing to do would be call them and see if they still have them in stock and then get a price.

For the extra money you get a revolver that looks just like the one you linked to but with a full hammer and the ability to shoot .357 Magnum rounds as well as .38 Special/.38 Special +P rounds.
 
It all depends on what you are looking for. For a self-defense gun, there is nothing at all wrong with DAO, especially a nice slick S&W DAO. The 64 will last pretty much forever shooting .38 Special, +P or otherwise. I will be the first to admit that the .357 Magnum is much more effective, but it gets there with a huge increase in blast, flash, and recoil. For some folks its worth it, others don't think so.

I bought my 64 DAO for IDPA. I shoot all .38 Specials in IDPA using my own hand loads that basically duplicate the standard 158 grain SWC +P factory loadings. Up until now I've been doing it with a .357 Magnum L-frame with DA and SA capability. However, since I always shoot .38 Specials anyway, and I never use the SA mode when I'm shooting matches, I decided to give the DAO K-frame a try. Basically it was just an excuse to buy another gun, but what they heck.

There is nothing wrong with the DAO 64 as it is. Its $100 cheaper than the CDNN 65s, which can be a big deal these days. However, one has to buy it with the intention of leaving it as it is. Buying a DAO 64 and converting it to DA/SA isn't going to be as cost effective as simply buying a DA/SA version to begin with.
 
I found a few recent 64s, trade-ins from a security company, at my pusher's for $315. The one below, actually a recent 64-8, was unissued - literally brand new. It was a deal - the 64 is a super house protector. The barrel clearly states '.38 S&W Special +P' - fine for the 'old FBI load', the +P 158gr LHPSWC. I keep a bundle of GA Arms version of that round - and some Remington R38S12 variants, several times the cost, for carry due to it's softer lead. I also 'play' with some 125gr JHP 900fps homebrew poppers. All of my shooting is DAO - I sold my SA only revolvers and train/practice DAO. If those 64s were nice, that's a great price - and I wouldn't care about the bobbed hammer.

Mine normally sports some goncalo alves rounded fg Hogues, which my wife prefers, and the Ahrends shown below are normally on my 696.

IMG_0553.jpg

Stainz
 
Are these J&G S&W 64s just bobbed, or are they internally DAO? Can you still pull the trigger back a little bit with the trigger, then cock into a single action shot?

Hey it's haloween, everyone likes zombies!
 
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Why does the lack of single action on a duty K-frame concern some people? That's like someone complaining that their Corvette is a lousy tow vehicle. I have three and I never shoot them single action. Those 64s were born to shoot double action, first and foremost. It's what they were bred for.
 
My ideal camping gun is a pencil barreled 64 round butt. I don't think it was ever made so I'm keeping an eye out for something that can become a project.
 
Hello. Count me in as a fan of the Model 64. Mine were all bought used but they were internally sound, correctly-timed and had smooth trigger-pulls.

SW3inM64rock002.jpg
This 3" came in the normal DA/SA spur hammer configuration. I labeled its hammer, put it away and fitted an S&W factory-bobbed hammer to that revolver. It makes a very nice concealed carry package and one that many find surprisingly easy to shoot well.

SWModel64NY1rock002.jpg
Likewise, this 4" RB was purchased used. It reportedly had been an issue-gun for some security company and has one of the smoothest actions of any of my revolvers. It had a few carry "dings" and "marks" but didn't appear to have been shot much. Where the hammer and trigger on the 3" gun were flash chromed by S&W, the hammer and trigger on this one is not, though the frame, cylinder and barrel are stainless steel. Though purchased "pre-owned", this is one of my favorite revolvers.

SWM64-3003.jpg
As luck would have it, a fellow in my area had another M64 4" HB for sale and I couldn't resist. As I frequently do, I labeled and stored the spur hammer that came on the gun and fitted an S&W bobbed hammer to it. I used this particular revolver for the revolver recertification as a state CHL instructor. It had a few dings, but careful work with fine sandpaper restored the revolver to pretty nice external shape. The interior was fine and the action, smooth. The stocks did require some sanding and refinishing. I've carried this one concealed a fair amount and feel quite adequately armed when using loads of my choosing such as Remington's 158-gr. LHP +P.

If one bobs the standard spur hammer, it will still be capable of both DA and SA-firing, though lowering a cocked, bobbed hammer is a bit risky in my opinion. The ones shown that were bobbed by S&W are not capable of being cocked. I believe that NYPD ordered revolvers with spurless hammers and capable of only double-action before they transitioned to autoloaders. I think that this configuration is sometimes called "NY-1".

Whether you opt to stick with the spur hammer (which can be rendered capable of DA-only fire if you like but still retain the spur for perhaps being secured in a strap-type holster or just looks) or go with a bobbed one, just depends on your personal preferences. I almost always shoot DA with these particular revolvers so I prefer the spurless DAO versions. Others will feel just the opposite. The question is what do you prefer; you definitely can have it your way without much trouble at all.

The guns do have fixed sights. In my experience, they are usually pretty well "on" at 15 to 25 yards with standard and +P ammo weighing 158-grs. I find that at 15 yards or so, standard pressure 158-gr. SWC's @ 800 to 850 ft/sec strike almost exactly the same point of aim as 158-gr. LHP's running around the 900 ft/sec mark. If you envision trying out load-after-varying-load in .38 Special, an adjustable sight model revolver might be a better choice. On the other hand, if you envision the gun as one for carry, knocking about the woods, a "car gun" or "house gun" that can generally be handled well with full-house loads from either hand for quick and accurate repeat shots, the Model 64 might be a very viable choice. It depends primarily on what you find important, not me or other folks.

As has been noted, these K-frames can be shot nearly forever with .38 Specials and remain in very serviceable condition.

As mentioned previously, I trust the gun and the caliber (as much as I trust any handgun caliber commonly associated with self-protection) if I can choose the ammunition. I also find these revolvers in this caliber a heck of a lot of fun to shoot just to have fun...something that rates highly on my list of things to do. If the same holds true for you, you might be well-served with one of these "vanilla just-a-38 revolvers". On the other hand, if you simply do not believe that the .38 Special has enough "stopping power", it might be better to pass. You know your own parameters better than anyone.

Should you buy the revolver and wind up not liking it, I strongly suspect that you can get you money back without too much trouble. That said, if you buy one of these "stainless Model 10's" and shoot it much at all, I think you may find yourself a fan.

There are certain handguns that are just special to me...and I suspect others. For me, some 1911's, most Hi Powers and some revolvers certainly are and the Model 64 is a favorite for sure.

If interested, here are some related observations on the Model 64's:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=475608

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=405830

Best to you and yours and good luck.
 
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Mr.Camp,
Your taste in revolvers mirrors my own. Well done. The Brinks armored car company issues model 64 DAO, it is a standard in that company.
 
Makes you think, I bought a 65 (.357 version) new for $125. I'm not saying what year though.
 
Mr. Camp mirrors my own views, all be they more fully and eloquently expressed. $250 for such a gun remains a value and, as 351 W said, with the right loads it is NOTHING to "sneer at." Over the years, several friends and I have bought a few and had nothing but excellent results. Dialogue with J&G, as with any seller, is crucial. D@#n! Now I am thinking I need a couple!

Swamper
 
Mr. Camp,

Just wanted to tell you that I think you did a really nice job on refinishing the wood stocks in your final picture. They look great. I probably need to do that with my 2" Model 15.

I don't want drift the thread too much, but do you explain how you went about doing this on your webpage?

---

To the OP,

I was tempted myself by the Model 64s you are looking at. The only thing that really stopped me is that I simply prefer blued revolvers. I've got a 4" Model 15 that is the same gun in a blued finish with adjustable sights. Trust me, it is very hard to go wrong with one of these fabulous revolvers and as someone else said, if you don't like it you can probably sell it for what you paid for it. Re-read Mr. Camps post, it best sums up how I feel about K-Frame .38s in general.
 
Hello. Actually, it's pretty simple. I just sanded off the existing finish. This gets many of the minor dings and scratches. It won't get really deep ones but much of the time, there are worn areas with imperfections but not really deep ones. I then just apply Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil by hand and let it dry before applying another coat. Usually three to four repeats will cover the stocks uniformly and "disguise" any remaining scratches or dings. Heavily worn areas remain so, but just don't appear as noticeable in most cases.

Best.
 
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