Storing gasoline for shtf.

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Stay away from in-ground tanks. There is no way to inspect them for leaks and no way to practically repair any leaks. There's also no way to gravity feed from them. You will also face potential problems with gasoline contamination of ground water and resultant problems associated with that. Don't worry about EPA as much as your neighbor dragging you into court and OWNING you and your property when you contaminate their drinking water supply. This is a huge liability issue.

Do not use containers that are not intended for fuel storage. There's worse things than dead and almost dying of burns from a gasoline fire is one of those. Drums that are appropriate for storage of benzine, xylene or similar flammable solvents are also appropriate for fuel storage.

If you're concerned about theft put the tank "out back" or in a small building with chain link around it and a locking dispense. Neither will stop someone from stealing gas, but it will slow them down enough perhaps to go somewhere else.

Bonding and ground are essential if transferring more than 5 gal of gasoline. See the "almost dying..." comment above.
 
Farm Fuel Safety

Dawna L. Cyr and Steven B. Johnson, Ph.D.
University of Maine


Farm Fuel Safety

Never store fuel in food or drink containers.
Locate fuel storage tanks away from buildings.
Watch for leaks or deterioration in fuel storage and delivery equipment.
Keep fuels away from children.


Accidents in the handling, use and storage of gasoline, gasohol, diesel fuel, LP-gas and other petroleum products (solvents, paint thinners and naphtha) can result in serious fires and explosions. The chances of fire or explosion can be reduced by following safety precautions and by keeping fuel storage facilities in top condition.


Flammable Liquids and Gases
Gasoline, diesel fuel, LP gas, degreasing solvents, paint solvents and certain paints are among flammable materials found on most farms. Keep these liquids away from open flames and motors that might spark. Keep all petroleum storage and handling equipment in good condition and out of reach of children. Inspect for leaks, deterioration or damage. Never store fuel in food or drink containers.

When transferring farm fuels, bond the containers to each other, and ground the one being dispensed from to prevent sparks from static electricity. Clean up spills right away and put oily rags in a tightly covered metal container. Change your clothes immediately if you get oil or solvents on them.

In addition, watch out for empty containers that held flammable or combustible liquids. Vapors might still be present. Store these liquids in approved containers in well-ventilated areas away from heat and sparks.

Be sure all containers for flammable and combustible liquids are clearly and correctly marked. Read and heed directions on all product containers, noting flammability and safety precautions.

Do not keep gasoline inside the home or transport it in the trunks of automobiles or recreation vehicles. If gasoline must be transported, carry only a small amount in a labeled safety can on the floor of the back seat. Roll down the windows so moving air can sweep away vapors.

Before cutting or welding a fuel tank, fill it with water to drive out any lingering residue or vapor. Many explosions have resulted from using a torch on a tank that was thought to be empty.


Refueling
Be cautious during refueling. Fires and explosions can happen. Besides being a fire hazard, spilled fuel can cause irritation and discomfort if it contacts the skin. Breathing an excess of fuel vapor often causes dizziness and headache.

When arriving to refuel, drive up to the fuel pump or storage tank slowly. Be careful not to bump it. Turn off the engine, and extinguish smoking materials. If the engine is hot, allow it to cool for a few minutes. Position yourself so you can refuel without slipping or becoming fatigued. Remove the fuel cap slowly and allow the pressure to dissipate.

Avoid over filling. Allow any spilled fuel to evaporate before starting the engine. After releasing the nozzle valve to shut off fuel flow, keep the nozzle in the filler opening a few moments to allow it to empty. Check vents to be sure they're not clogged, and replace the filler cap. Then lock up the pumps so children, or other unauthorized persons cannot pump fuel.

Refuel small equipment outside -- never in an enclosed area. A funnel will make the job easier when using a safety can.

Wipe up spills and allow the excess to evaporate before starting the engine. Before resuming work, put the safety can back into safe storage.


Aboveground Tanks
An aboveground storage facility is cost effective. The tanks are movable and ground water or limited flooding has little effect on them.

Aboveground storage tanks must be sturdy and designed for fuel storage. They should be 40 feet or more from buildings. A tank too near a burning building could explode and spread the fire. Mount a tank elevated for gravity discharge on sturdy supports placed on a firm, level surface. Keep the area clear of weeds and trash to reduce fire risk. Remind machinery operators to stay away from the support structure and to not bump it when pulling up to refuel.

Unless tanks are located in a shaded spot or have overhead canopies to shield the sun, evaporation losses can be sizable. Use a pressure-vacuum relief valve (rather than the standard vented cap).


Safety Cans
Label fuel containers according to their contents.

A labeled safety container is made of heavy-gauge metal and has a cap that automatically closes to prevent a spill if the can is dropped or tipped over. The squat shape makes a safety can difficult to tip. A pressure-relief valve opens when vapor pressure inside the can reaches three to five pounds per square inch. A flash-arresting screen in the filler opening and pouring spout will reduce the possibility of a spark which could cause a fire or explosion.

Label fuel containers according to their contents. Do not risk confusing diesel fuel and gasoline. Paint gasoline cans red and diesel cans green. Store cans in a cool, well-ventilated place, away from living quarters and ignition sources.



LP Gas
The fire or explosion hazard with LP gas usually involves leaks or failures in the system, improper transfer of liquid from one tank to another, or accidents where tanks or lines are ruptured. Also, an LP tank involved in a building, trash or tractor fire can greatly intensify such a fire or even explode.

Large LP storage tanks should be at least 50 feet from the nearest building and 20 or more feet from other aboveground fuel tanks. Provide and maintain solid foundations to support LP-gas tanks so they won't settle or tip and break or damage connections.

Equip the storage tank with a liquid-fill hose and a vapor-return hose. If the vapor escapes into the atmosphere, a fire or explosive danger is created. Therefore, when you fill your fuel tank, the vapor from the top should be fed back into the storage tank.

Be alert for leaks in the LP-gas system. Protect gauges and regulators from weather and dirt. If you smell gas, turn off valve(s) at the tank(s). Open windows and doors to ventilate the building, and don't switch on anything electrical. Get everyone out, and call a technician to find and fix the leak.


More Safety Reminders
Keep all equipment used for petroleum storage and handling in good condition. Watch for leaks, deterioration or damage. Make needed repairs or replace faulty components immediately. Keep cap vents clean and free, and tank and safety can pressure-relief valves functional.

If fuel is spilled on your clothing, go outside, away from any ignition source, and allow the clothing to dry. If more than a little was spilled, remove the garment, and wash the fuel from your skin to avoid irritation.

When siphoning fuel, use a pump. Never use your mouth. A mouthful of gasoline or diesel fuel could be fatal, especially if it gets into your lungs. Also avoid excessive inhalation of gasoline vapor.

Each year, several children are poisoned after accidentally ingesting gasoline and other petroleum products. Protect your fuel facilities so children cannot draw out any fuel. The facility should be off limits. Warn children sternly about playing with matches in fuel areas. Keep gas cans out of their reach, and never store fuel in food or drink containers.

When servicing machinery, check the fuel system for leaks. Double check connections to be sure they are secure and leak-free after changing fuel filters or performing other work requiring disconnecting or removing a fuel line or fuel system component.

Turn off oil heaters before refueling. Make sure the filler cap is replaced and tightened. Set portable heaters away from combustibles where they cannot be tipped over.

Motor oil and grease are considerably less flammable than engine fuels, but they will burn. Keep them away from ignition sources.

Following these safety tips on the handling, use and storage of gasoline and other farm fuels will help to prevent fires and explosions.



Disclaimer and Reproduction Information: Information in NASD does not represent NIOSH policy. Information included in NASD appears by permission of the author and/or copyright holder. More

NASD Review: 04/2002

This Maine Farm Safety Fact Sheet is part of an educational fact sheet series produced by the University of Maine Cooperative Extension. For more information on farm safety, contact your county Extension office.


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diesel will solidify (or at least wax up) in low temperatures. They sell a different grade of diesel in winter to try to combat this.
 
Drums and tanks up to 1500 gallons:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs...s.categoryKey=1661&REQ_SUB_CAT=Drums&index=10

Question:
Understanding the drawbacks of underground tanks, wouldn't a large above ground fuel tank represent a significant security risk? Assuming worse case, and you're defending the house, the constant potential of a 1,000 gallons of fuel in a thin skinned container at one's back wouldn't seem to be a good thing.
 
You can build a small shed around it for concealment.


Or live somewhere that the chances of people attacking your house are much reduced.
 
All of you guys recommending to use race gas because it stores better, you guys are dead wrong.

We sold race gas for a long time, and it goes stale much faster than regular 93 octane fuel. In fact, I would say that once exposed to air from a sealed drum, a fuel, such as C-16, which is 118 octane, will lose about 1-2 points of octane per week, before it gets down to a point where it is about the same as 87 octane, at which point it will slow down to a rate similar to other fuels.

The more refined the fuel is, the quicker it goes bad. Hence the reason that Diesel seems to last forever.
 
Bonding and grounding revisited:

I was cleaning an apparatus a week ago at work that consists of several pressure tanks with plastic tubing connecting them. The last tank empties into a drum or can through a plastic tube that is wrapped with wire. Evey metal surface of the apparatus is wired to eachother. We had to modify the apparatus by removing the last tank, leaving a 18" piece of 1/4" plastic tubing with a metal ball valve as its outlet. I was cleaning the tanks, while running solvent through, I heard a very loud 'SNAP' and witnessed an electrical arc that traversed the 18" length of plastic tubing between the grounded ball valve and the tank. To say that it made me feel real queasy and sick inside would be an understatement.
Lucky for me, the apparatus was pressurized and purged with nitrogen, and the spark occured inside of the tubing.

If this can happen in a carefully engineered environment, it can certainly happen to anyone jimmyrigging a fuel storage/delivery system at their house.
 
junyo, are any of those tanks rated for fuel? Using the wrong tank would be terribly dangerous.

CB, thanks for pointing this out. We've got some incipient suicides posting and perhaps your real world experience will help persuade them to emulate you and look into this more carefully before they immolate themselves.
 
The race gas I use lasts far, far longer than pump gas. In fact, I can discern no changes after years of storage. I am completely unconcerned with octane dropping; I use it simply to prevent the varnish crud buildup and associated cleaning necessitated by trying to use old pump gas. I have 100% success rate for race gas for all the years I've been using it.
 
When?

When...or maybe a better question is ever?

Has anyone ever had the fuel in their car inspected for color? Anyone know anyone who has?

Just curious....

Chuck


QUOTE:
DO NOT get caught using farm fuel on-road. It has a dye in it that is easily detected. The fine for getting caught is $5000.
 
Testing for dye

Near my place in the Ozarks I've been told by a bunch of people that roadblocks are set up for testing for dye and other stuff.

I recall it being a $5K fine.

I've not seen one personally, but the number of sources leads me to believe it is in fact being done. I do know that in many years of travel with diesels, I've never seen testing or been subject to it.
 
Diesel vehicles all have a clear section of fuel tubing before the injection pump. All "inspection" consists of is looking at the clear tube after lifting the hood or a cover/panel. If it's red (off-road high-sulphur diesel) the tank will be sampled.
 
antarti,
I have 3 diesel vehicles, year models -1990, 2004, 2005 and I dont have any "clear tubes" anywhere in the fuel system. And after working with diesels for over 15 years, I have never even seen one.(a clear tube that is). Please enlighten me on which vehicles have this, not knocking ya, just want to see for myself.
Also, to store gasoline indefinitly, you need to store in in a tank capable of maintaining 11 psi min pressure. Dump in the fuel, pressurize to 11psi or more and it will last forever. I did chemical cleanup/packaging a few years ago and it was in the saftey course/handbook. I will give the name of book and reference page if I can find it. No other chemicals are needed to keep it fresh but just a min of 11psi. Somehow it keeps the fuel from vaporizing in the container/tank with temp changes and that keeps the fuel fresh.
 
AntiBubba,
When iwas kid we ssued to run naptha in our cars and eqpt. It was wellhead condensate, called drip gas or as we called it HAmmer Gas. You have to retard your timing waaaaay back to run it and it is never real good. Don't think you could add enough octane booster and alcohol to get it up to snuff.
It was pretty good in tractors where you didn't need any throttle response but if you ever hit the throttle, bambambambambambambambambambam:D

Sam
 
Hmmm, it might be worth researching. Maybe on an old lawnmotor.

Of course, you could simply skip the naptha and just get a drum of anhydrous denatured alcohol. You can purchase it from industrial supply houses. It'll be pricey, but as long as water vapor doesn't get to it, it'll keep forever.

Or maybe a blend. Napthahol?
 
Ok, regarding using octane booster---assuming what the posters here have said is correct---should you add this at the time you fill the jerry can, or wait until you are going to use it (after it's sat around awhile)? Or is it 6 of one and half a dozen of the other?
 
after working with diesels for over 15 years, I have never even seen one
Neither have I. I have also purchased an inordinate amount of off-road diesel straight from the pump. You fill your drums, and tell the clerk "off-road" when you go to pay. He gives you the little form, you fill in your tax number, and then you go home. I've never seen a dye in diesel.
 
All "octane boosters" are snake oil. The only thing that really works is adding Xylene or Toulene. These can be found at some hardware and paint stores. I forget the correct ratio, but it is something on the order of a couple gallons per tank, which is why the store bought octane boosters don't work. They just aren't big enough, even if they were pure Xylene, which they aren't.
 
You people are making this a lot more difficult than it has to be. Just order a 55 gallon drum of race gas from a supplier. They'll bring it out and you don't have to worry about what to store it in, just leave it in the drum and add Sta Bil. Forget electric pumps, just get a hand crank pump that's made for 55 gallon drums.

Hide it away and in a few months, order another drum. You got 110 gallons and no worries. You can rotate it out once a year if you like to worry.
 
um, race gas, when I was in the market

5-6 years ago, was about $5 a gallon. That was when I lived in CA and raced motorcycles... and "regular" gas was a buck a gallon. Also, the sellers wouldn't sell it to you unless you had some competition license, so the State was reasonably assured you would not be polluting "their" air by burning it in a street vehicle. Racers (and suppliers) advised that you use it within a week or so as it was more sensitive to degradation than pump gas...Has anything changed for the better?
 
What seems like an even easier solution would be to get a cheap beater car and a generator that both run on diesel, then buy the raw ingredients to produce your own biodiesel. For a short-term emergency you could store a 30 - 55 gallon drum of commercial diesel but keep the equipment and ingredients to make as much as you need later on. Produced at home it would cost about 46 - 60 cents per gallon.

As far as ingredients go, you'll need vegetable oil (pure is best, rapeseed works great), methanol, and lye. Producing your own fuel is a great idea for long-term self sufficiency in the case that commercial diesel becomes unavailable or hideously expensive. Plus, you can store the raw ingredients almost indefinitely as long as you keep the lye in an airtight container and free of moisture.

For more info, check out this site: http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html
 
Kacerdias,

You say, "then buy the raw ingredients to produce your own biodiesel."

Have you done this yet?
 
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